Well, there is always going to be a market for high end collectibles. And the price of these will be determined by what the market will bear. If Tomenosuke can sell their kits for $1200 or Coyle a finished gun for $1600 then that's what they are currently worth to the collector market. I know in the case of Rich he has spent years researching and refining this product and makes them by hand himself in a machine shop at his home. It's very labor intensive. It's not his responsibility to produce a mass product at a lower price point to cater to a specific market.
Blade Runner Blaster news: model kit version of the Tomenosuke Blaster is coming
- Thread starter phase pistol
- Start date
Much the same goes for the Tomenosuke guys. (The kit was $550, by the by.)
Look, everybody wants nice stuff, ideally as cheaply as possible, but low production costs only come with huge volumes and that carries too much business risk for guys who are almost hobbyists themselves. They're not big companies and don't have their own factories.
For example, I'm working on a large model of the USS Cygnus from The Black Hole; when I'm finished I'll make it available for people to 3D print themselves if they're crazy enough; it's costing me an arm and a leg and any buyers will have to pay the print service the same as I do - but by the time I'm finished I'll have spent twice what a buyer would in failed parts and unusable test pieces. If I was offering the model as a regular resin kit (bad example since it's not actually possible) I'd have to recoup that cost, and the cost of silicone for moulds, and the cost of the resin itself, all before I even *start* to think about paying myself for my time. It'd be great to be able to do something like that at a price that would make it attractive for lots of people, and make lots of people happy. But the risk is that hardly anybody even remembers that movie and most who do wouldn't want a model this big anyway.
It's not that makers necessarily want to be elitist, it's not like we're talking Cabestan watches here, but even if that is part of their thinking, there are also some economic basics involved. The big radio control pre-builts and helicopters you get at cheap prices these days are manufactured in *millions*, well maybe not quite but big volumes compared to our niche market stuff.
Look, everybody wants nice stuff, ideally as cheaply as possible, but low production costs only come with huge volumes and that carries too much business risk for guys who are almost hobbyists themselves. They're not big companies and don't have their own factories.
For example, I'm working on a large model of the USS Cygnus from The Black Hole; when I'm finished I'll make it available for people to 3D print themselves if they're crazy enough; it's costing me an arm and a leg and any buyers will have to pay the print service the same as I do - but by the time I'm finished I'll have spent twice what a buyer would in failed parts and unusable test pieces. If I was offering the model as a regular resin kit (bad example since it's not actually possible) I'd have to recoup that cost, and the cost of silicone for moulds, and the cost of the resin itself, all before I even *start* to think about paying myself for my time. It'd be great to be able to do something like that at a price that would make it attractive for lots of people, and make lots of people happy. But the risk is that hardly anybody even remembers that movie and most who do wouldn't want a model this big anyway.
It's not that makers necessarily want to be elitist, it's not like we're talking Cabestan watches here, but even if that is part of their thinking, there are also some economic basics involved. The big radio control pre-builts and helicopters you get at cheap prices these days are manufactured in *millions*, well maybe not quite but big volumes compared to our niche market stuff.
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Hi fellow blade runners
I did a YouTube search on blueing the tomo pro but only came up with 4 show off vids of an incredible pro that was blued. There was no description of the process. I'm trying to go by Karl's repost of the pics on how that great blueing was achieved but I would like more details if possible. I'm going strip mined own again and reblue. I thought it turned out good but after seeing Karl's link to there blueing process mine looks like ass lol
Carl
I did a YouTube search on blueing the tomo pro but only came up with 4 show off vids of an incredible pro that was blued. There was no description of the process. I'm trying to go by Karl's repost of the pics on how that great blueing was achieved but I would like more details if possible. I'm going strip mined own again and reblue. I thought it turned out good but after seeing Karl's link to there blueing process mine looks like ass lol
Carl
corellian77
Active Member
Not to derail the thread, but please post pics of this build at some point. The Cygnus is a beautiful ship, and I'd love to see what you've done with it.
I'm certainly not casting any aspersions on this kit as it looks like a really fine piece of work. The parts look really well made, it seems pretty accurate and there have been some great builds posted in various places. I would likely have tried to get in on the action too had I not already had one of Rich's. In fact I almost did.
philmonty
New Member
For the record, I love my Tomenosuke Blaster and feel it was well worth the money. I also had a huge amount of fun putting it together and want to thank Mune and his team for their work in assembling the kit. Nicely done gentlemen.
In terms of the bluing discussion, as a newbie collector I initially thought I'd get an even bluing, and followed all the directions, but you know, after I while I gave up and realized I liked the "used" look and then actually "roughed up" the bluing a little more. I'm really happy with how it came out.
This thread has been invaluable and the 3 mods I did were to bend the trigger spring a little to get a better action, a felt washer at the front of the bolt action lockup, and coloring the grips with an orange marker then wiping off with an alcohol swab, to get a deeper orange.
Phil
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For the record, I love my Tomenosuke Blaster and feel it was well worth the money. I also had a huge amount of fun putting it together and want to thank Mune and his team for their work in assembling the kit. Nicely done gentlemen.
In terms of the bluing discussion, as a newbie collector I initially thought I'd get an even bluing, and followed all the directions, but you know, after I while I gave up and realized I liked the "used" look and then actually "roughed up" the bluing a little more. I'm really happy with how it came out.
This thread has been invaluable and the 3 mods I did were to bend the trigger spring a little to get a better action, a felt washer at the front of the bolt action lockup, and coloring the grips with an orange marker then wiping off with an alcohol swab, to get a deeper orange.
Phil
In terms of the bluing discussion, as a newbie collector I initially thought I'd get an even bluing, and followed all the directions, but you know, after I while I gave up and realized I liked the "used" look and then actually "roughed up" the bluing a little more. I'm really happy with how it came out.
This thread has been invaluable and the 3 mods I did were to bend the trigger spring a little to get a better action, a felt washer at the front of the bolt action lockup, and coloring the grips with an orange marker then wiping off with an alcohol swab, to get a deeper orange.
Phil
- - - Updated - - -
For the record, I love my Tomenosuke Blaster and feel it was well worth the money. I also had a huge amount of fun putting it together and want to thank Mune and his team for their work in assembling the kit. Nicely done gentlemen.
In terms of the bluing discussion, as a newbie collector I initially thought I'd get an even bluing, and followed all the directions, but you know, after I while I gave up and realized I liked the "used" look and then actually "roughed up" the bluing a little more. I'm really happy with how it came out.
This thread has been invaluable and the 3 mods I did were to bend the trigger spring a little to get a better action, a felt washer at the front of the bolt action lockup, and coloring the grips with an orange marker then wiping off with an alcohol swab, to get a deeper orange.
Phil
What an amazing job you achieved on that plastic barrel. I plan taking mine all apart and doing the everything on it in this manner. Now my question is did
Nobu San dilute the aluminum black? What is that blue bottle next to the birchwood?
Carl
I didn't have aluminum black. I used the same PermaBlue I used on the rest of the pieces. Aluminum black may work much better, I just used what I had on hand. I did not dilute it.
I see. Thanks for the info. Im beginning the sanding now. I really want to achieve that deep blue on all the parts. I will try the the methods you used because it worked real well.
Ive begun the process of sanding the frame and after achieveing the silver look I coated it with aluminum black. Lo and behold it turned bliueish after several passes. Amazing. Now my question is did Nobu San use the same procedure on the metal pieces?? Karl? can you confirm this if possible? will post pics soon
thanks
PS Ive ordered the Tamaya polish...
Carl
thanks
PS Ive ordered the Tamaya polish...
Carl
cool! pics?
I see. I read your initial post as being specific to Rich and his business practices when I see you were referring to questioning the pricing of the Tomenosuke by the poster. I don't consider pricing to be a form of business ethic and why I didn't make that connection. If anyone prices their product too high it simply wont sell, that's a choice of math, not morality.
genetic timelor
New Member
Look I apologise if I have created this snowball. I am a lover not a fighter. Sorry for any offence.
genetic timelor
New Member
Thank you Bryan.
here is a few passes on the frame after sanding it to silver. I used alum. black and it turned a nice blueish hue. Ive ordered the polish so I have to wait on that. instead of waiting on the polish i decided to fine steel wool it to polish it some. certainly brings out the blue hue. now I will layer more aluminum black on it.
Carl
Carl
Attachments
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Ive begun the process of sanding the frame and after achieveing the silver look I coated it with aluminum black. Lo and behold it turned bliueish after several passes. Amazing. Now my question is did Nobu San use the same procedure on the metal pieces?? Karl? can you confirm this if possible?
thanks
Bumping this to see if Karl or someone can chime in.
Carl
thanks
Bumping this to see if Karl or someone can chime in.
Carl
kontherun
Well-Known Member
My kit finally arrived after two months and one day. I was lucky, it flew right through without being taxed. My friend in Japan had wrapped it like a birthday present. Saved me just about $150. The good part of waiting this long is all the know how that has accumulated here in the meantime 
Thanks guys.
Thanks guys.
