Vader MPP lightsabers details and specifications

Has anyone ever thought to make T-track with the screw heads already embedded in it, so real screws would not have to be applied to an MPP (which, as the owner of one, I would NEVER do)? That would make it worthwhile to replace my current grips...
 
Has anyone ever thought to make T-track with the screw heads already embedded in it, so real screws would not have to be applied to an MPP (which, as the owner of one, I would NEVER do)? That would make it worthwhile to replace my current grips...


I haven't seen that but I know people have dremeled screw heads off and then applied them either with adhesives or even embedded a little bit of the screw shank into a small hole drilled into the existing grip.
 
That makes sense, I did that with the Luke ESB. I'm just saying, if someone wants to make something like that, I think it'd be super helpful. I'd go for it.
 
I would try to see another real shroud like the one used at least in ESB and ROTJ MPP-based Vader hero lightsaber.
As everyone know, the material looks like steel, but I have never seen any steel genuine MPP shrouds, get 3 in the hands, and saw more, As I get, and saw some genuine heiland flashguns, sharing common pieces with MPP flashguns (especially bulb holder, aluminum button, and I suspect the heiland and mpp shrouds to be made bysame maker or same molds.)
Another weird thing is all the shroud variations are cast, witth good or bad finish, but not machined.
I get both MPP shroud variations, stepped and straight, the stepped one has smaller ID, same OD so a thicker wall, the straight one has a thinner wall on front, so none have same design as the steel one used in the movie.
The only existing shroud I know with same design is the parks replica.
Did he create it from scratch?
Did he use a existing replica (larbel?!)
Did he get a genuine mpp but decided to modify the shroud?
Did he get a real MPP with the thick-walled straight shroud I have never seen in real for the moment?
The pictures of the ESB MPP lightsaber are too recent to think he could use them as references.
 
Wow, I can't believe it's been so long since these were done, lol. I was in on the original run and pre-paid for two of the Parks replicas.

Parks MPP Replica was based on an authentic MPP that was loaned to him by Ghost Host to set up the run. After the run was completed this turned into a bit of a sore spot as the flash got damaged, parts got lost, and Parks just walked away from it without offering any compensation to GH for his loss.

My recollection of what happened is that some attributes were modified on the final replica piece to make them more accurate to the filming prop -- like the larger vertical oval holes, there was much discussion about these, and GH's flash may have been the only one at the time that had the matching hole type -- and other details got missed -- like the engraved rings on the bottom of the endcap which may have been due to not being on the sample GH provided.

Keep in mind that the existence of the ESB Hero was unknown at the time and we were going largely off of the Chronicles photos trying to match those up with all of the variations of the MPP -- again some of which were only known through photos. Honestly I think the issue with Parks shroud was a combination of low res references, Chinese manufacturing practices, and possibly Parks only having the time to pursue accuracy in the part until it got nailed down to 90% though I don't remember any compromises being discussed. By the time these started shipping people were just about calling for Park's blood as it was taking forever -- some things never change.

Cheers,

Dave
 
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That quite an ironic accident, ending up with a thicker shroud and then realizing today it's more accurate to that specific MPP they used.

A while back i had a Cast metal shroud from the junkyard. It was way too heavy to be satisfying, but the surface looked dead on to the Casino/Hero
 
This thread is great - I've got a heiland to convert and will probably do a hybrid of ANH/ESB styles (short grips, wires, clamp lever) - using a 3D printed alumide shroud (aluminum+nylon) and blastech clamp from the junkyard.
 
Here are specifications about the two clamp variations I get, large and narrow.
A large clamp is too large for a bubble strip, maybe it can close enough and fit without the sleeve, didn't try and sold the saber long time ago.
A narrow clamp with standart shape will fit the bubble even opened, quite similar to a graflex clamp opening (depending on natural opening tapering on the graflex), but as you keep the board, you have to modify the bubble so it will fit.
For a accurate look, you have to taper the clamp to reduce the gap, and modify the bubble so the clamp would be very close to the spheres of the bubbles themselves.

About the opening variations on the graflex, I discovered it when I worked on my firts obiwan lightsaber, I didn't like the gap, because it's ugly and I wanted to close to the maximum, but it was not possible, because the bars were about parallel with a standart opening, about 4 to 5mm gap under the bubble, for a 38mm or 1,5" tube or grenade.
if you close to the maximum, you have no gap on top, but some gap on bottom, and it's even uglier.
And one day I bought a clamp ring, that was possible to close entirely with no gap, because the tapering was reversed with normal use, something like 5mm on top and 4mm on bottom or so, so it was possible to close entirely, by reducing the inner tube or grenade to 37mm or so, and modifying the clamp lever.
So my actual obiwan lightsaber has closed clamp, that fits the bubble without gap on sides and underneath.

For the vader lightsaber accuracy, you have to do the exact opposite.

vader clamp.png
 
Does anyone know the size/letter height of the port letters (E, S, B) on a vintage MPP? Sorry if this was covered and I missed it.

Thanks
 
the way it's engraved is very specific too, not pinched but probably using a small mill

Thanks for the info. I have a Korbanth MPP coming and unfortunately the letters were not included during manufacturing so I have been trying to find ways to get the letters on it. My only two options for DIY are etching and stamping. I'm waiting to see what the material is to decide the best route between those two options.
 
Thanks for the info. I have a Korbanth MPP coming and unfortunately the letters were not included during manufacturing so I have been trying to find ways to get the letters on it. My only two options for DIY are etching and stamping. I'm waiting to see what the material is to decide the best route between those two options.

The MPP 2.0 is chrome plated brass.


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I don't trust my shaky hands that much. I have scrap sink tube here that I can test things out on. It is essentially the same thing.
 
I suppose this is the thread to ask in--

I have Parks that's missing a few parts--specifically, one of the two small flathead screws (beneath the shroud) which keep the inner bulb holder in place, and the clamp plastic sleeve. I'm having trouble finding a replacement for the screw, and am not sure where to find them. And, are o-rings currently the best solution for replacing the plastic clamp sleeve?
 
I suppose this is the thread to ask in--

I have Parks that's missing a few parts--specifically, one of the two small flathead screws (beneath the shroud) which keep the inner bulb holder in place, and the clamp plastic sleeve. I'm having trouble finding a replacement for the screw, and am not sure where to find them. And, are o-rings currently the best solution for replacing the plastic clamp sleeve?

That's what I'm using atm for my new MPP...

IMG_3761.JPG
 

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