1/2700 Star Destoyer on the kitchen table

Hmm, I haven't heard a word about my order...and all that glowing talk about how great they are:confused :lol
Wow!!

Shapeways just sent tracking number for the engine deflectors and can you believe their home office in NY and a printing facility in Queens NY. I may get it tomorrow or Monday Package already picked up by UPS
 
ISD sensor1.jpegISD sensor2.jpegISD bridge1.jpegISD bridge2.jpegI didn't think to get pics of the lighting on, but I did place the remote sensors and it works pretty good. Though it does do some funky stuff every now and again, probably from signal floating because the top isn't on it. I have to light the windows first, then the engines. other way, it engines come on and pulse bright to dim and back. Otherwise, I think it's going to be fine once the upper is secured. I set to bridge top and clamped it down. I also played around with the engine block and discovered that when placed in stock position, with out the 1.5mm, the top of it only needs 1.0mm more to mate good with the upper hull. So I think what I'm going to do is, get some .5mm and put a strip on the top and bottom so the gap is equal. I'm also going to notch the stock engine panel brace so there is a tab in the center, and use the .5mm to build a slide trench so when I install and remove the engine panel it will slide straight in and the brace will drop down into it's position in the lower hull. that's all just in my head at the moment, but I'll take pics if it works like I think it will. I'm going to install a 9V battery holder on the brace as well, just below the center main bell LED. Crossing my finger ;)
 
Coming really nice. I like the how you placed the IR sensors. That is a good idea to add .5mm to the top and bottom of the engine block. I have not tried mine yet but I added only 1mm so I wonder how much of a gap I will have. Getting close to doing all the engine block detail sometime this week. I will see how it fits when I start that. Priming and painting is getting close. I may prime the top and bottom panels separately before I put it all together and leave the trench priming for when I join the top and bottom......Then only have to paint entire ship with base coat and do the wash. Not exactly sure yet but that is the initial painting plan. I also have the top section removable so I will be able to prime and paint that separately which will make it easier.

I'm also going with either the RF inline dimmer controls or the non remote ones with the controls on the unit:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-Mini-R...var=413008298574&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649


https://www.ebay.com/itm/5X-12V-Min...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

Easy to wire and not have to worry about IR sensor placement. The ones with the RF remote can all work separately and the other ones have the buttons on the circuit board. I just want to set the brightness level to what I like and forget it so either one will work for me. I will have my other RF remote/relay switch set to separately turn on the engines, hangar bay and interior lights and also work the lasers and sound clip.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-6CH-Re...var=690089371510&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649




View attachment 785795View attachment 785796View attachment 785797View attachment 785798I didn't think to get pics of the lighting on, but I did place the remote sensors and it works pretty good. Though it does do some funky stuff every now and again, probably from signal floating because the top isn't on it. I have to light the windows first, then the engines. other way, it engines come on and pulse bright to dim and back. Otherwise, I think it's going to be fine once the upper is secured. I set to bridge top and clamped it down. I also played around with the engine block and discovered that when placed in stock position, with out the 1.5mm, the top of it only needs 1.0mm more to mate good with the upper hull. So I think what I'm going to do is, get some .5mm and put a strip on the top and bottom so the gap is equal. I'm also going to notch the stock engine panel brace so there is a tab in the center, and use the .5mm to build a slide trench so when I install and remove the engine panel it will slide straight in and the brace will drop down into it's position in the lower hull. that's all just in my head at the moment, but I'll take pics if it works like I think it will. I'm going to install a 9V battery holder on the brace as well, just below the center main bell LED. Crossing my finger ;)
 
Ah, sounds great dude! I wish I had your know-how with that stuff. I went and got the .20 and some .30x80 for running around the engine panel. I guess because of the angles, the thickness doesn't work out the same. I got F's in that class anyway.:lol I'm still thinking about adding one of my sound modules but as its activated by a push button on the circuit board, I'm not sure I can re-do it to activate off another one of these sensors...unless I can remove the pushbutton and install the sensor wires in it's place. Or, if I can figure out how to make it play with the lights when they come on... I'll have to play around with that. the modules are only like 10-12 bucks so if I ruin it, no biggy. but it would be cool to have 20 seconds of the "Empire march" play by remote control! :thumbsup
Coming really nice. I like the how you placed the IR sensors. That is a good idea to add .5mm to the top and bottom of the engine block. I have not tried mine yet but I added only 1mm so I wonder how much of a gap I will have. Getting close to doing all the engine block detail sometime this week. I will see how it fits when I start that. Priming and painting is getting close. I may prime the top and bottom panels separately before I put it all together and leave the trench priming for when I join the top and bottom......Then only have to paint entire ship with base coat and do the wash. Not exactly sure yet but that is the initial painting plan. I also have the top section removable so I will be able to prime and paint that separately which will make it easier.

I'm also going with either the RF inline dimmer controls or the non remote ones with the controls on the unit:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-Mini-R...var=413008298574&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649


https://www.ebay.com/itm/5X-12V-Min...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

Easy to wire and not have to worry about IR sensor placement. The ones with the RF remote can all work separately and the other ones have the buttons on the circuit board. I just want to set the brightness level to what I like and forget it so either one will work for me. I will have my other RF remote/relay switch set to separately turn on the engines, hangar bay and interior lights and also work the lasers and sound clip.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-6CH-Re...var=690089371510&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

- - - Updated - - -

many thanks Buds, each thing I build is better than the last, but I still have a lot to learn, particularly with the electronics :confused
That's looking good GT.
 
With the IR I don't think you will be able to do that with the remote. You can just extend the wires from the sound board (run wires from the switch contacts) and install a momentary switch either on the ship or base so you can activate the sound clip.

That is why I decided to go with a 6 channel RF switch which you can setup channels to Momentary or on/off. This switch I bought can be setup for channels 1-3 momentary and channels 4-6 on/off. My sound effects board requires 2 momentary switches to activate the lasers and sound clip so they will be operated by channels 1 and 2. The other channels (4,5&6) will be used for on/off (main lights, engines and hangar bay). The 6 channel RF switch cannot dim any of the outputs so I will use the other ones I bought just to do that. They will be wired inline on the appropriate outputs (4, 5 and 6) of the RF switch before going to the corresponding LEDs (Main, Engines, Hangar Bay).

If I use the RF ones then I will have 2 remotes. If I use the ones without the remotes I can set the dimming for each to what I want and leave it alone.

I rec'd the diffusing acrylic yesterday.....Looks like great stuff.......Thanks!!!



Ah, sounds great dude! I wish I had your know-how with that stuff. I went and got the .20 and some .30x80 for running around the engine panel. I guess because of the angles, the thickness doesn't work out the same. I got F's in that class anyway.:lol I'm still thinking about adding one of my sound modules but as its activated by a push button on the circuit board, I'm not sure I can re-do it to activate off another one of these sensors...unless I can remove the pushbutton and install the sensor wires in it's place. Or, if I can figure out how to make it play with the lights when they come on... I'll have to play around with that. the modules are only like 10-12 bucks so if I ruin it, no biggy. but it would be cool to have 20 seconds of the "Empire march" play by remote control! :thumbsup

- - - Updated - - -

many thanks Buds, each thing I build is better than the last, but I still have a lot to learn, particularly with the electronics :confused
 
sounds like you've got it whipped up pretty good buddy, again I wish I had your knowledge or half of it, on the electronics. I guess I'll fan the sound module this time...unless of course I built an "oval box", (if you will) the same size as the stand I got for it, and house the sound module in there and have the button stick out of that. Then the stand would be a couple inches taller anyway, nothing wrong with that I suppose. The I could take a few of the flawed casts of millennium falcon side walls and greeblie the oval box. I may play with that and see.
Glad you finally got the film, geez, it took long enough didn't it?!? I got and email from Shapeways, my baffles are on the way finally. did you get yours yet?
With the IR I don't think you will be able to do that with the remote. You can just extend the wires from the sound board (run wires from the switch contacts) and install a momentary switch either on the ship or base so you can activate the sound clip.

That is why I decided to go with a 6 channel RF switch which you can setup channels to Momentary or on/off. This switch I bought can be setup for channels 1-3 momentary and channels 4-6 on/off. My sound effects board requires 2 momentary switches to activate the lasers and sound clip so they will be operated by channels 1 and 2. The other channels (4,5&6) will be used for on/off (main lights, engines and hangar bay). The 6 channel RF switch cannot dim any of the outputs so I will use the other ones I bought just to do that. They will be wired inline on the appropriate outputs (4, 5 and 6) of the RF switch before going to the corresponding LEDs (Main, Engines, Hangar Bay).

If I use the RF ones then I will have 2 remotes. If I use the ones without the remotes I can set the dimming for each to what I want and leave it alone.

I rec'd the diffusing acrylic yesterday.....Looks like great stuff.......Thanks!!!
 
Tracking says at local post office out for delivery....

On the sound board the switch must has 2 solder contact points on the bottom of the board, Just solder 2 wires to those contacts....extend the wires to an inconspicuous spot on the ship and install a small momentary switch to activate the sound clip (see below)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/10pcs-6x6x...569684?hash=item257cdbcd54:g:KFkAAMXQlbVSEV-m

He has these switches in different heights so measure the plastic thickness where you want to install and get one with a couple on mm more so it sticks out just enough to be able to press.

I have used these and they are very small so you will not notice them. The switch only needs 2 wires soldered to it to work. You have to test to see which 2 of the 4 contacts will work

sounds like you've got it whipped up pretty good buddy, again I wish I had your knowledge or half of it, on the electronics. I guess I'll fan the sound module this time...unless of course I built an "oval box", (if you will) the same size as the stand I got for it, and house the sound module in there and have the button stick out of that. Then the stand would be a couple inches taller anyway, nothing wrong with that I suppose. The I could take a few of the flawed casts of millennium falcon side walls and greeblie the oval box. I may play with that and see.
Glad you finally got the film, geez, it took long enough didn't it?!? I got and email from Shapeways, my baffles are on the way finally. did you get yours yet?
 
Again, I have so much to learn with regarding electronics. Sounds like it's a breeze for you and that's so cool :thumbsup I haven't done much in the past couple days, started my .20in fill strip on the lower last night. I also figured out I need to glue in a light blocking strip just behind where the engine panel will sit...just in case. I think I've decided to take to easy road and build a box for under the clear acrylic stand and put the soundie in there.
Tracking says at local post office out for delivery....

On the sound board the switch must has 2 solder contact points on the bottom of the board, Just solder 2 wires to those contacts....extend the wires to an inconspicuous spot on the ship and install a small momentary switch to activate the sound clip (see below)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/10pcs-6x6x...569684?hash=item257cdbcd54:g:KFkAAMXQlbVSEV-m

He has these switches in different heights so measure the plastic thickness where you want to install and get one with a couple on mm more so it sticks out just enough to be able to press.

I have used these and they are very small so you will not notice them. The switch only needs 2 wires soldered to it to work. You have to test to see which 2 of the 4 contacts will work
 
ISD eng fill strip.jpgI'm going to do back stops on the ends and build a magnet plate there as well as you suggested. I think it's all going to work out well. unfortunately for me, my mother-in-law is coming today for a two week stay...but that affords me more time at the table because they'll have me on ignore :lol
 
Looking good. The magnets will work out real nice. The backstop will keep it in the right position and block any light that might leak. For any of the LEDs in the back just make sure the tubes and the back of the LED are light blocked to minimize any chance of light leaking out of the engine block seams.

I rec'd the engine deflectors yesterday.......They are real tiny and there was 12 instead of 9 in the package. So glad I got them with no spruce.....It would have been a nightmare trying to cut them without breaking them. Going to be hard to glue them and not break them off. That will be last step when model is all finished.






View attachment 786332I'm going to do back stops on the ends and build a magnet plate there as well as you suggested. I think it's all going to work out well. unfortunately for me, my mother-in-law is coming today for a two week stay...but that affords me more time at the table because they'll have me on ignore :lol
 
Thanks brother :thumbsup yes, tiny indeed. The ones I scratched were cumbersome to do, to say the least. Mine will probably be here today or tomorrow...I hope. As soon as I get my "shims" set in place I'm going to tape the upper and lower together to test fit the engines and I may have to scratch some braces to glue just past the engine panel to prevent sagging but it mat sit just fine on the stand with gravity, we'll see. I suppose attaching the magnets to said bracing would be a good idea. I think I'm getting pretty close to finishing this one, a couple more weeks I'd guess.
Looking good. The magnets will work out real nice. The backstop will keep it in the right position and block any light that might leak. For any of the LEDs in the back just make sure the tubes and the back of the LED are light blocked to minimize any chance of light leaking out of the engine block seams.

I rec'd the engine deflectors yesterday.......They are real tiny and there was 12 instead of 9 in the package. So glad I got them with no spruce.....It would have been a nightmare trying to cut them without breaking them. Going to be hard to glue them and not break them off. That will be last step when model is all finished.
 
If the .5mm strips on the top and bottom give it a nice snug fit you should not have to worry about it sagging. That mid ship brace can also be adjusted to slightly raise or lower the top to fit nicely on the engine block. I noticed when I raised the walls 1mm that brace was still touching because the center had sagged slightly but not noticeable. You can also play with that to see if you can get the engine seam to a nice snug fit.


Thanks brother :thumbsup yes, tiny indeed. The ones I scratched were cumbersome to do, to say the least. Mine will probably be here today or tomorrow...I hope. As soon as I get my "shims" set in place I'm going to tape the upper and lower together to test fit the engines and I may have to scratch some braces to glue just past the engine panel to prevent sagging but it mat sit just fine on the stand with gravity, we'll see. I suppose attaching the magnets to said bracing would be a good idea. I think I'm getting pretty close to finishing this one, a couple more weeks I'd guess.
 
Well when I was fitting the back stop for the port side last night I noticed a little sagging and that's why I decided to do the light blocking strip just behind the engine panel, but then I don't want the noticeable gap either, light or no light. it'll work out though, kinda fun problem solving...sometimes :facepalm
If the .5mm strips on the top and bottom give it a nice snug fit you should not have to worry about it sagging. That mid ship brace can also be adjusted to slightly raise or lower the top to fit nicely on the engine block. I noticed when I raised the walls 1mm that brace was still touching because the center had sagged slightly but not noticeable. You can also play with that to see if you can get the engine seam to a nice snug fit.
 
ISD ENG PNL1.jpegISD ENG PNL4.jpegISD ENG PNL5.jpegISD ENG PNL6.jpegnot much, but here are the back stops for the engine panel and the bases for the magnets (T shapes) and the light blocking "fence" just to the rear of where the engine panel goes. the last pic is some automotive door lock rod clips. I cut a small groove in the panel for the clip to hook to, bent what is the lower part to match the panel and super glued in place. I got some magnets mounted and it holds pretty good, but the magnets are kinda ugly. I suppose it doesn't matter what they look like as long as it works, and no one will see them anyway...but I'd hate for anyone to see them, certainly not you guys... so I think I'm off to Ace Hardware at lunch to see if I can't find pretty ones :lol
 
Thanks Buds, it looks a bit of a spaghetti mess on the inside...Escape does a better job on "neat and tidy", but at his suggestion of being more organized, mine looks better than it otherwise would have been :lol plus it makes working with it easier when going back to add or re-do something. but at the end of the day as long as it looks good on the outside and functions properly, that's the ultimate goal. I'm excited to see this one finished, and the other guys ISD's as well, though...it will be sad when this adventure comes to an end. This build has been more fun than I've had in a long time, all due to everyone's input and inspiring work they've done with theirs has made mine far better than it would have been. Cheers to all you guys!!! :cheers
That's looking good GT.
 
Looking good....finish line is in sight!!!

Are you using the neodymium magnets for this? They are round cylinders and look pretty good. Can't do nothing about the glue because they need to stay in place and not pull out.

Where did you buy a few sheet of the diffusing acrylic (Polycarbonate film -Transparent white) from Curbell Plastics........They sell cases or large sheets/rolls and it's expensive.

The closest I've come to I think finding the one you have is:
https://www.curbellplastics.com/Sho...-Gloss-Matte-Light-Diffusing-Grade-Case-of-50





View attachment 786536View attachment 786537View attachment 786538View attachment 786539not much, but here are the back stops for the engine panel and the bases for the magnets (T shapes) and the light blocking "fence" just to the rear of where the engine panel goes. the last pic is some automotive door lock rod clips. I cut a small groove in the panel for the clip to hook to, bent what is the lower part to match the panel and super glued in place. I got some magnets mounted and it holds pretty good, but the magnets are kinda ugly. I suppose it doesn't matter what they look like as long as it works, and no one will see them anyway...but I'd hate for anyone to see them, certainly not you guys... so I think I'm off to Ace Hardware at lunch to see if I can't find pretty ones :lol
 
I'm not sure about the magnets...I had a stack of 4 in the kitchen junk drawer, about as big as a quarter and about 1/4 to 3/8 thick. I tried to break one in half but it didn't break clean. but go two pieces out of it big enough. Like I said, ugly but functional. was going to go to Ace and see what they had.
yeah, the acrylic was Corbell, they set me a sample pack for free which was more than enough for what I wanted...score!
Looking good....finish line is in sight!!!

Are you using the neodymium magnets for this? They are round cylinders and look pretty good. Can't do nothing about the glue because they need to stay in place and not pull out.

Where did you buy a few sheet of the diffusing acrylic (Polycarbonate film -Transparent white) from Curbell Plastics........They sell cases or large sheets/rolls and it's expensive.

The closest I've come to I think finding the one you have is:
https://www.curbellplastics.com/Sho...-Gloss-Matte-Light-Diffusing-Grade-Case-of-50
 
I can send you 6mm x 1.5mm neodymium magnets....... How many do you want?

I called Corbell and the lady said they do not send out samples. I called the 800 number on their website. I just found numbers for their many locations. I will call a few and see if they can send me out some samples. That stuff is really nice for light diffusing


I'm not sure about the magnets...I had a stack of 4 in the kitchen junk drawer, about as big as a quarter and about 1/4 to 3/8 thick. I tried to break one in half but it didn't break clean. but go two pieces out of it big enough. Like I said, ugly but functional. was going to go to Ace and see what they had.
yeah, the acrylic was Corbell, they set me a sample pack for free which was more than enough for what I wanted...score!
 
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