Tips on weathering DEC Aluminum flash hider?

BlayneKenobi

New Member
I watched scotts video on his method and realized he didn't have the aluminum one. Used the super blue and nothing happened on mine. Any suggestions, would the same method with the aluminum black create the same results?
 
For mine I sprayed it with black gloss paint and immediately started smearing the fresh paint with a rag soaked in a paint thinner. I did this process multiple times till I was pleased with the look.

IMG_9439.JPG
 
When you get new machined parts, they often go through a polishing process. This polished surface will not accept the Aluminum black (this might have been the problem with the bluing as well).

I recommend you take some wet automotive sand paper (600 or higher) and prep the surface areas of the part.
 
Sorry I just saw that you messaged me, but the answer here will benefit more people.

Yeah those pewter ones and steel will be fine with super blue. Super blue won't do anything to aluminum at all.

Aluminum black will work though. Don't do the baggy trick with aluminum black. It's too harsh. Just get a cotton ball soaked in AL black, and apply by hand (USE GLOVES). wipe all over it. then wipe off with a clean rag/paper towel. Then keep doing that over and over again. Buffing back down. After a LOT of time you can get it to look just like steel .
 
I tried the aluminum black in a bag with some parts. It went south real quick when it started off gassing and getting super hot! I have since stayed away from using a baggy and just rubbing it on
 
Sorry I just saw that you messaged me, but the answer here will benefit more people.

Yeah those pewter ones and steel will be fine with super blue. Super blue won't do anything to aluminum at all.

Aluminum black will work though. Don't do the baggy trick with aluminum black. It's too harsh. Just get a cotton ball soaked in AL black, and apply by hand (USE GLOVES). wipe all over it. then wipe off with a clean rag/paper towel. Then keep doing that over and over again. Buffing back down. After a LOT of time you can get it to look just like steel .
I tried the aluminum black in a bag with some parts. It went south real quick when it started off gassing and getting super hot! I have since stayed away from using a baggy and just rubbing it on

I did the aluminum black in a zip lock bag method and found out the hard way. It is way too harsh and my parts have a black crusty film all over them. Inside and out. Think of a burnt marshmallow. What’s the best way to remove all the black soot-like oxidation? How do I remove from the INSIDE of the parts? Scope, Bull, and Flash Hider. I’m guessing soaking it in something but I don’t know what. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
 
bead blast it or hand sand it. Scotch write or 0000 steel wool, and manual labor. Those are what I would do. Bead blast would be the fastest.

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You can send it to me, and I can fix it and do it all for you
 
bead blast it or hand sand it. Scotch write or 0000 steel wool, and manual labor. Those are what I would do. Bead blast would be the fastest.

- - - Updated - - -

You can send it to me, and I can fix it and do it all for you

Scott I think I may take you up on that. Sent you a PM
 
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