Red Hawk's Vintage ANH Macrobinoculars Build Thread

Red Hawk

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Probably should have started this a while back just to keep track of how I've done this. Now that I'm a good way through it I'll try to remember everything I've done.

Starting out with a parts list:
- Eumig Servomatic (main macro body and front knob that goes into triangle piece)
- Seagull 4A TLR (large side knob)
- Bell & Howell 220 (silver inner dial section inside large Seagull knob)
- Bell & Howell 624 (gray dial cross bar)
- VTR Connectror - Male (mystery box)
- Sanyo VM4512A (female side of mystery box connector)
- Kalimar 660 x 2 - (2 lenses, viewer hood, 4 knobs)
- Belt clip (from trooper)
- Transition box (so far I've got Jerry's terrific resin version, a metal version on the way from Manny, and considering the cut up Kalimar route as well)

The first parts I found were the Bell & Howells.

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Deconstruction process for both Bell & Howells pretty straight forward, take the screws out.

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Next came the Seagull. This one came with a bit of a learning curve to get apart. After stripping the whole thing down, tearing off the faux leather, removing screws, removing the small knobs (a task unto themselves, btw, trooper showed me how to just pull them up, grip the stalk with a pair of needle nose pliers, turn and they will twist right out) I realized that all you need to do is unscrew the black ring from the top of the large knob.

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After you twist off the black ring a number of the internal pieces of the knob will just life out, until you get to this part...

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(Yes, this is a second Seagull, after I realized you didn't need to disassemble the whole thing.)

Anyway, once you get to this step to get the rest out you need to turn that inner silver ring, the one with the two opposing notches, and it will twist out. Be careful here, this is super sticky with the grease that helps the knob turn on the camera.

So here are all the large knob internals. The black and white striped disc I just needed to clip the side tabs off with some wire cutters and then it fits perfectly right inside the Bell & Howell knob housing.

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Before putting it all together I drilled and counter sunk some holes to attach it to the Eumig body. A hole right through the center for a 4-40 bolt (counter sunk so it stays flush) to attach through the side of the Eumig, and counter sunk the back side of the two existing holes in order to have the two screws that hold the gray B&H cross bar in place.

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Also had to drill two corresponding holes in the black and white disc to pass the two screws in to the cross bar.

Next came disassembling the Eumig. For this I followed the great tutorial that Clutch did, so I won't redo all that with you here.

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Here's the fully stripped camera, you can also see where I cut out part on the upper left behind the hole drilled for the large Seagull knob in order to attach a locking nut on the back.

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Drilled out the holes for the two side Kalimar knobs with some help on placement from Chad (HB1098S ) as well as the large Seagull (forgot to take a photo of all three holes I guess) it was roughly between the numbers farthest to the right in this picture.

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After getting those holes in is when I decided to go all OCD on it and drill out each individual screw hole (didn't get the spacing 100% right the first time so had to re-drill a few times). Those holes (drilled with a tiny 1/16" drill bit actually did a decent job of holding the knobs in place and might have been enough if I had drilled them perfectly the first time. But alas, I ended up putting them all in and then adding a bit of JB Weld to ensure they don't move and that I'd still be able to pull the stalks up.

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One side done!

On to the front...

Forgot to take a picture of painting it, but prepped and spray painted Jerry's great lens plate and then started modding up the Eumig for the screws. Can find some more detail on exact placement of those holes on his thread. Essentially, just cut out a piece of paper with the dimensions of the plate, placed it over the plate and poked out the holes, then used that template to drill the holes in the body. It's perfectly sized and has the side notches going the correct direction.

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Starting to really look like some macros here!

Next it was on to the (not such a) mystery box. Don't have this one done yet but at least started and know where I'm headed.

Drilled two holes in the side of the Eumig that I plan on threading two small bolts into the back of the VTR.

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Here's my assemble pieces for this part along with the bolts and nuts. Still need to get the solder off the old female connector end so I can paint the housing black. Planning on leaving the back plate off for two reasons. 1) helps it sit more flush against the side of the Eumig and 2) because that way I can thread the bolts right into it. Will keep you up to date with how this plan turns out.

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One of the last big sections to work on is the viewer. Disassembled the Kalimar and painted the logo square black.

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Still have to decide which T Box I'll use then can make some more progess here.

So that's where I am now, will update with more as I move along.

This photo isn't current, but I like it. I call it "Macros - Some Assembly Required".

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Thanks to everyone here for all the guidance, both technical and emotional!
 
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Looks great! If I had to pick a transition box I would go with making your own from the Kalimar or using a Trooper one that he molded from a Kalimar. Im not a fan of resin, usually prefer metal, but his pulls are so clean and the box is spot on. And he uses quality resin, which makes it that much better.
 
Agreed, Chad. I have Trooper’s and love it. What I’m considering is using his as the template to try to make one from the Kalimar body. Will post when I drum up the courage to start cutting.


Looks great! If I had to pick a transition box I would go with making your own from the Kalimar or using a Trooper one that he molded from a Kalimar. Im not a fan of resin, usually prefer metal, but his pulls are so clean and the box is spot on. And he uses quality resin, which makes it that much better.
 
Great job Red Hawk. I'm doing the same thing with the B&H knob, looks great.

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
 
Made some progress on the macros. Added on the VTR plug (fka, mystery box). Took a fairly simplistic route here. Removed the back side plate, which served two functions, 1) brought it closer to the side of the Eumig, and 2) it allowed me to use the two screw holes to attach to the camera. Here you can see I drilled two matching holes, one in either compartment matching the VTR screw holes and then threaded them through. I might want to do something in the future to stabilize it a bit, but definitely holds well for a simple solution.

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Coming next time, the adding of the Transition Box...
 
Made some progress on the macros. Added on the VTR plug (fka, mystery box). Took a fairly simplistic route here. Removed the back side plate, which served two functions, 1) brought it closer to the side of the Eumig, and 2) it allowed me to use the two screw holes to attach to the camera. Here you can see I drilled two matching holes, one in either compartment matching the VTR screw holes and then threaded them through. I might want to do something in the future to stabilize it a bit, but definitely holds well for a simple solution.

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Coming next time, the adding of the Transition Box...

Looking great, dude! If you want it to sit more stable, consider putting the back plate back on, but grinding down the raised lip/silver rivet parts so that it sits flush. You can still stick the screws right through the holes to thread them into the plug, and it won't sit any higher than it does without. Sturdy and flush.
 
Thanks, Pat! I’ll definitely try that. I have the whole plug back off the camera now anyway for some painting and clean up anyway, when I put it back on I’ll try with the backplate.


Looking great, dude! If you want it to sit more stable, consider putting the back plate back on, but grinding down the raised lip/silver rivet parts so that it sits flush. You can still stick the screws right through the holes to thread them into the plug, and it won't sit any higher than it does without. Sturdy and flush.
 
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