New BMF coming

TronGod......Most paints designed for plastics have a flex additive. Ive torqued my little MF quite a bit........not a chip.
 
TronGod......Most paints designed for plastics have a flex additive. Ive torqued my little MF quite a bit........not a chip.
Yeah...I know for example the RC car paint is very very flexible... I was not sure about all model paints tho...but I still say this plastic is far from ideal :) People seem to have reported no problems painting it, to having paint peel up a bit. Guess its all up to what the prep is and paint..of course... I'd always feel better if the hull was hardened up a bit, even if its just a mental thing on my part..
 
Yeah...I know for example the RC car paint is very very flexible... I was not sure about all model paints tho...but I still say this plastic is far from ideal :) People seem to have reported no problems painting it, to having paint peel up a bit. Guess its all up to what the prep is and paint..of course... I'd always feel better if the hull was hardened up a bit, even if its just a mental thing on my part..

With the metal framing I'm not too worried about the plastic hull plating. The metal makes it rock solid.
 
https://www.inventables.com/technologies/light-diffuser-films

Might be worth a shot?

Coolio, thanks guys, I'll give those a shot each and see how they work. gyoung, welllll...I HAVE access to one, but I think my kids might cry :) One thing the BMF lighting rig did suggest to me is that if I can't get it diffused sufficiently, I might try adding the grill from the SEs - rather not, as I was going for something closer to the filming miniature look. I grew up with it, and the grill has just never sat right with me.
 

Thanks. I actually tried the cotton balls (took the light level down on these crappy, battery-powered guys too much by the time it was sufficiently diffused), couldn't find semi-transparent tape so didn't get to try that, but DID pick up a rattle can of Frosted Glass and coated the already-frosted cutting mat - EUREKA! One coat took me from 15cm for sufficient diffusion to 5-6cm with minimal lumens lost. I've so far mocked up the engine light enclosure in card stock just to make sure there's nothing unexpected going to trip me up, but for an on-board power supply solution (obviously, those super sweet "shore-powered" 12V LEDs a couple other people have used will ALWAYS be better) it's looking good. Now all I need is some resin sidewalls (cough-cough...no pressure guys :) ) and I can really dive into the few structural changes I'm planning to make!
 
Hey guys!!!

Did you realize that this thread has arrived to 100 pages!!!

:D

For such a crappy toy on THE premier prop-replica website in the whole history of the inter-tubes? That's insane :lol This is such a weird toy - mostly more accurate than anything ever mass-produced in the last 40 years, but made out of utter garbage plastic, and sold as a budget product. Alright, c'mon, Hasbro, fine, we're loving these things - now give us a HS Star Destroyer!
 
I was talking about the HASBRO version :) Which has AIR inside, not metal :)

I've got to say after installing Spacebobs' internal structure, the thing is much more sound now. If you haven't already, I highly recommend it - ten bucks in decent plywood and I'm no longer worried about my Falcon collapsing in on itself. If you want to light it, you'll need to chop out some room in the aft end for a lighting enclosure, but my Falcon feels SO much more solid and secure now that she has an armature inside her.
 
Congrats on the pageviews! Longtime lurker here going to post my progress soon. Yah, this 'toy' is like the stockmarket on Walmart's website. Now it's at $44.18. Wish I had waited to get it.
 
Hi all I am at it a gene

DSC00195.JPGDSC00196.JPG so what is up with the resin kit parts ? :D


mmm amazing way am I chopping it up LOL :lol
 
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