Ryan Gosling 'K' - Blade Runner 2049!
- Thread starter robertsonick
- Start date
tomservojones
New Member
Yeah, mine's the Brave Soul one. If you look on the link and zoom on the picture you can see the little metal tag it has attached near the bottom. It's a little misleading because it doesn't even say the brand on the product page. I'm quite happy with it though (besides the sleeve randomly unraveling one day and me having to get a replacement. I may always dye it to get some of that green out.
The Character
New Member
Hi
First post here and just throwing my twopennies worth into the ring regarding waxing jackets .. I saw few posts back aways about the perils of waxing and i wanted to maybe help. I have several Barbours and have waxed and re-waxed many times. I dubious in the extreme about applying varnishes and silicones etc to fabric as short term it may work but those will dry out and crack and/or are subject to UV degradation. Also it wont allow the fabric to breathe in any way so you're gonna end up boiling to death in a very sweaty coat ...
I've just ordered my jacket and will be waxing it in due coarse. Waxed cotton when it comes is usually very subtle .. a good waxed jacket wont necessarily have a sheen at all. In my humble opinion the K jacket looks very much 'over waxed' which means its been waxed and then re-waxed and possibly even waxed again to the point where theres a lot of wax sitting on the surface and in the fabric....
Im guessing most if not all the Main three Suppliers use a standard waxed cotton maybe with an extra wax layer applied on top as an option, so in other words it wont look overwaxed. BUT ,.. its easy to achieve that look. So i thought id just mention the re-waxing process in case anyone is put off by the thought. its really easy and very difficult to mess up.
The best wax i've found is the Barbour Thornprooof dressing .. not expensive .. Work in a warm room on a wooden or other table. Melt the wax by placing it in a tin of hot water and then apply it using a small sponge (NOT a cloth or you can kiss the majority of your wax goodbye as it will just soak into the cloth) around 2.5 inches diameter or 2.5 inches square by about an inch and a half deep ... spread it nice and evenly across the fabric. The tins are small but re-waxing a normal jacket takes less than a 3rd of a tin normally. Unwaxed cotton i'd guess will need the best part of a tin but again they are not expensive. Once waxed either - 1/ hang outside if its a nice sunny day OR 2/ gently heat all over with a hair dryer .. this keeps the wax liquid and allows it to flow evenly into the jacket so you dont get waxy patches ... Easy
However .. My plan is to initially degrade the surface of the jacket with sandpaper or similar to start breaking the fibres down and the seam edges (hopefully without popping any seams) and then im going to overwax it to try and achieve that slightly shiney look. My thinking is to very quickly after the re-waxing, apply another coat. You see the 'over waxing' effect on a lot of badly re-waxed Barbours where folks have just gone plumb crazy and used a whole tin or more on a jacket .. they look slick and darker. But I want the texture the heavy cotton surface gives to remain, so thus the roughing up of the surfaces and seams first .. a bit of 'unnatural' natural wear as it were. again place somewhere warm or use the hairdryer to even out the look.
By the way ... this is a fantastic thread and has been super useful in helping me make my choice of jacket ...
TC
First post here and just throwing my twopennies worth into the ring regarding waxing jackets .. I saw few posts back aways about the perils of waxing and i wanted to maybe help. I have several Barbours and have waxed and re-waxed many times. I dubious in the extreme about applying varnishes and silicones etc to fabric as short term it may work but those will dry out and crack and/or are subject to UV degradation. Also it wont allow the fabric to breathe in any way so you're gonna end up boiling to death in a very sweaty coat ...
I've just ordered my jacket and will be waxing it in due coarse. Waxed cotton when it comes is usually very subtle .. a good waxed jacket wont necessarily have a sheen at all. In my humble opinion the K jacket looks very much 'over waxed' which means its been waxed and then re-waxed and possibly even waxed again to the point where theres a lot of wax sitting on the surface and in the fabric....
Im guessing most if not all the Main three Suppliers use a standard waxed cotton maybe with an extra wax layer applied on top as an option, so in other words it wont look overwaxed. BUT ,.. its easy to achieve that look. So i thought id just mention the re-waxing process in case anyone is put off by the thought. its really easy and very difficult to mess up.
The best wax i've found is the Barbour Thornprooof dressing .. not expensive .. Work in a warm room on a wooden or other table. Melt the wax by placing it in a tin of hot water and then apply it using a small sponge (NOT a cloth or you can kiss the majority of your wax goodbye as it will just soak into the cloth) around 2.5 inches diameter or 2.5 inches square by about an inch and a half deep ... spread it nice and evenly across the fabric. The tins are small but re-waxing a normal jacket takes less than a 3rd of a tin normally. Unwaxed cotton i'd guess will need the best part of a tin but again they are not expensive. Once waxed either - 1/ hang outside if its a nice sunny day OR 2/ gently heat all over with a hair dryer .. this keeps the wax liquid and allows it to flow evenly into the jacket so you dont get waxy patches ... Easy
However .. My plan is to initially degrade the surface of the jacket with sandpaper or similar to start breaking the fibres down and the seam edges (hopefully without popping any seams) and then im going to overwax it to try and achieve that slightly shiney look. My thinking is to very quickly after the re-waxing, apply another coat. You see the 'over waxing' effect on a lot of badly re-waxed Barbours where folks have just gone plumb crazy and used a whole tin or more on a jacket .. they look slick and darker. But I want the texture the heavy cotton surface gives to remain, so thus the roughing up of the surfaces and seams first .. a bit of 'unnatural' natural wear as it were. again place somewhere warm or use the hairdryer to even out the look.
By the way ... this is a fantastic thread and has been super useful in helping me make my choice of jacket ...
TC
Zlurpo ended up erring on the side of not waxing his coats, because the prototypes evidently turned splotchy when waxed--perhaps a side effect of the custom-dyed canvas? The outcome might be different depending on the type of wax used, though.
If you end up buying a Zlurpo, I'd be very curious to see how your waxing technique turns out!
thanks for adding all that info, very helpful indeed! quick question for you, do you have any suggestions as far as removing excess wax from an "overwaxed" coat goes? for instance, if touching the coat leaves a waxy residue on your fingers, can that be remedied? would wiping it down with a cold, wet cloth or sponge help at all?
The Character
New Member
Actually its the Zlurpo I have ordered ...AND i totally understand why he would not want to supply it waxed or anyone really .. its a fairly laborious process you wouldn't want to have to do on a large to medium scale.
But the patchiness is almost certainly down to the way ithe wax is applied and more so what you do afterwards aka the heating of it. Essentially no matter how much care you take applying it, some areas have more wax than others. literally the only way to even out the waxing is heating the jacket , which means the wax remains liquid and gradually evenly distributes through the fabric .. So - Sunny Day waxing here i come! (not many of those in Shepperton currently!).
I have previously actually put my barbour into a tumble dryer for a few minutes on occasion but you need to be super careful as the difference between heating and shrinking is a fine line. personally i favour the sunny day or near a heater trick .. leave it overnight as its a slow gradual process .. Big point - you don't need to rush it either it will happen naturally as the wax is reasonably evenly applied.
to Aeonpulse's point if you have heavily overwaxed a jacket don't bother with water as thats precisely what the wax is designed to repel. 2 options/suggestions
1/ Put over an ironing board or table (jacket opened up) and have someone hold a hairdryer and warm the jacket while you rub hard on the over waxed areas with a clean dry cloth. try and use a cotton teacloth or dishcloth that isn't going to leave lint or fibres all over your jacket. That will remove/absorb a lot of the excess surface wax and push the remaining wax deeper into the fabric which will even out the tone.
2/ if you want to start again ... wash it in detergent on a VERY cool wash. that will literally strip out the wax and should leave the jacket unharmed. Its literally the number one rule with Barbour wax jackets is don't wash them with detergent as it will remove the wax. certainly ther Barbour wax is very light so any kind of detergent or washing up liquid etc will strip off the wax ..
To be clear - For other waxes i am not as sure so its a risk but if your options are very limited its maybe worth a punt (at your own risk to be fair) to start from scratch.
But the patchiness is almost certainly down to the way ithe wax is applied and more so what you do afterwards aka the heating of it. Essentially no matter how much care you take applying it, some areas have more wax than others. literally the only way to even out the waxing is heating the jacket , which means the wax remains liquid and gradually evenly distributes through the fabric .. So - Sunny Day waxing here i come! (not many of those in Shepperton currently!).
I have previously actually put my barbour into a tumble dryer for a few minutes on occasion but you need to be super careful as the difference between heating and shrinking is a fine line. personally i favour the sunny day or near a heater trick .. leave it overnight as its a slow gradual process .. Big point - you don't need to rush it either it will happen naturally as the wax is reasonably evenly applied.
to Aeonpulse's point if you have heavily overwaxed a jacket don't bother with water as thats precisely what the wax is designed to repel. 2 options/suggestions
1/ Put over an ironing board or table (jacket opened up) and have someone hold a hairdryer and warm the jacket while you rub hard on the over waxed areas with a clean dry cloth. try and use a cotton teacloth or dishcloth that isn't going to leave lint or fibres all over your jacket. That will remove/absorb a lot of the excess surface wax and push the remaining wax deeper into the fabric which will even out the tone.
2/ if you want to start again ... wash it in detergent on a VERY cool wash. that will literally strip out the wax and should leave the jacket unharmed. Its literally the number one rule with Barbour wax jackets is don't wash them with detergent as it will remove the wax. certainly ther Barbour wax is very light so any kind of detergent or washing up liquid etc will strip off the wax ..
To be clear - For other waxes i am not as sure so its a risk but if your options are very limited its maybe worth a punt (at your own risk to be fair) to start from scratch.
ONRX Drumani
Active Member
I'm one of those folks that went crazy and used a whole tin of barbour wax. Did'nt work for me. I sended the jacket to a company that is barbour aproved. I have it back, but the look is ultra mate.
@ The Character - I'm fully planning on waxing my coat (ordered a small, but now ordered a medium - so once I get that). Maybe you could post a tutorial while you performer it, or take some pictures as you do it?
I was planning on using a large Otter Wax bar - I tried it on a piece of extra Zlurpo material and it seems like its going to work pretty well to give the effect seen on K's coat.
I was planning on using a large Otter Wax bar - I tried it on a piece of extra Zlurpo material and it seems like its going to work pretty well to give the effect seen on K's coat.
ONRX Drumani
Active Member
The Character
New Member
Hi
yup id be happy to take some pictures when it arrives of the process and post up a step by step ... its fairly simple. as i said its keeping the wax warm and liquid so it saturates properly thats the key. other wise it simply sits on the surface and hardens which then looks pretty cak. BUT even that is fixable.
never seen an otter wax bar but i shall have a nose around. ONRX seems to have scored well with the company he used to do the fixing so maybe he can share who they were for those that are a little reluctant still to go at it. .... Lol I sound like Mr Miyagi! 'Wax on .... Wax off!' lol
EDIT
Just checked it out online .. its same process ... wax rubbed on .. heat with hairdryer to absorb into the fabric .. theres a nice little video on youtube for anyone wanting to see the process ... there are also several videos of the Barbour wax rewaxing ... just search rewaxing a Barbour jacket ...
yup id be happy to take some pictures when it arrives of the process and post up a step by step ... its fairly simple. as i said its keeping the wax warm and liquid so it saturates properly thats the key. other wise it simply sits on the surface and hardens which then looks pretty cak. BUT even that is fixable.
never seen an otter wax bar but i shall have a nose around. ONRX seems to have scored well with the company he used to do the fixing so maybe he can share who they were for those that are a little reluctant still to go at it. .... Lol I sound like Mr Miyagi! 'Wax on .... Wax off!' lol
EDIT
Just checked it out online .. its same process ... wax rubbed on .. heat with hairdryer to absorb into the fabric .. theres a nice little video on youtube for anyone wanting to see the process ... there are also several videos of the Barbour wax rewaxing ... just search rewaxing a Barbour jacket ...
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ONRX Drumani
Active Member
I saw those videos. But I have to say that this company told me that a barbour jacket have a diferent cotton. The jacket I have is more like raw canvas. The barbour jackets have a smooth finished. Te whole thing is about the thread.
ONRX Drumani
Active Member
This is what I mean. This is the White sheep leather. Dunno how it is zlurpo's fabric.
Here a pic of my coat 30 minutes after aplyed the barbour wax:
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I picked up one of the BooHoo sweaters linked previously, partly because it'd be good for product pics and partly just cuz it seems like a nice, cheap sweater. It's MUCH greener than the pics make it look. Americans would call it "forest green" not "khaki." It is noticeably more green than the coat I sell.
MAJSmith
Sr Member
I think the links to your pics are broken.
For anyone interested, I just received my boohoo sweater, and it’s probably too big. It’s a small and you can’t shrink acrylic. So I’m thinking of offering it up to anyone who’s interested.
Szx
New Member
Hi serrecuir !
You can help with leght of shoulder to hem ( M size, what you have) please?
How tall you have?
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The Character
New Member
Hi ONRX,
You're right .. Barbour make several types of jacket .. some are the heavy cotton such as my Steve McQueen international and some are a finer cotton like the Beacon Heritage .. the thinner cotton gets and has a far shinier look after waxing because of the finer threads and closer fibres whereas the McQueen is a duller Finnish but you can up the wax content a bit.
From the images your jacket looks good ... the wax will definitely change the nature of the jacket either waxed or overtaxed .. would love to see a full shot of that if you can?
Al
You're right .. Barbour make several types of jacket .. some are the heavy cotton such as my Steve McQueen international and some are a finer cotton like the Beacon Heritage .. the thinner cotton gets and has a far shinier look after waxing because of the finer threads and closer fibres whereas the McQueen is a duller Finnish but you can up the wax content a bit.
From the images your jacket looks good ... the wax will definitely change the nature of the jacket either waxed or overtaxed .. would love to see a full shot of that if you can?
Al
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ONRX Drumani
Active Member
I'm afraid that those are the only pics I taked when I waxed myself. In the moment those pics were taken there was not more wax in the can. In order of not have half jacket waxed and the steans, soaked areas I decided to send the jacket I comented before.
This is the jacket send it back waxed in barbour facilities :
Here it can be seen that the waxed coating is perfect and super homogenic but ultra-mate. Also the colour if you compares with the pictures posted before you can note how darkest and diferent is the colour:
Like I posted before, this is a great coating, but they advice me that in that kind of heavy thread cotton is imposible the shinny finished.
The bright side is they did'nt charged me nothing, even they told me that I could wear the jacket until winter's end and they clean the wax free of charges.
This is the jacket send it back waxed in barbour facilities :
Here it can be seen that the waxed coating is perfect and super homogenic but ultra-mate. Also the colour if you compares with the pictures posted before you can note how darkest and diferent is the colour:
Like I posted before, this is a great coating, but they advice me that in that kind of heavy thread cotton is imposible the shinny finished.
The bright side is they did'nt charged me nothing, even they told me that I could wear the jacket until winter's end and they clean the wax free of charges.
The Character
New Member
Hi
Its neat that they did'nt charge you .... how the heck did you pull that one off?..
The jacket looks great. I think the problem is in different parts of the movie the jacket looks wet, slick, dry etc ... that is to me all the characteristics of a wax jacket .. it gets wet and looks soaked but it isn't letting the water through .. when its not wet and the sun is out .. its dry etc.
As a member of COW there are so many people out there looking for 'Screen accurate' jackets .. something i feel is impossible as on any given day the wardrobe department probably had 10 different jackets and the film has been graded etc ..
I think if you get a jacket the does the job and looks great its going to come down to a choice of a Cosplay jacket .. or a working jacket. Im after the latter. I've watched the movie a fair few times now and other than a couple of scenes .. its not that shiny to my eyes. (albeit they are not Nexus Grade). paint is not stable and age and UV will eventually destroy it .. theres a reason jackets are not painted. A wax jacket will literally last years and years if re-waxed.
interestingly though ... i have been doing some research into OILSKINS and that does produce a more shiny look due to the boiled linseed oil. there are again some great instructional videos online. the process of applying it iso remarkably similar. Wax, oil and turpentine boiled up together and cooled into a cake form .. Then applied as rub in compound and heated .. only difference ... slightly more shiny. But god alone knows what the smell would be like as linseed oil stinks .. maybe need a bit of ventilation.
Again .. im going with waxing as i think its bang on the money and right for a practical everyday use ...
Its neat that they did'nt charge you .... how the heck did you pull that one off?..
The jacket looks great. I think the problem is in different parts of the movie the jacket looks wet, slick, dry etc ... that is to me all the characteristics of a wax jacket .. it gets wet and looks soaked but it isn't letting the water through .. when its not wet and the sun is out .. its dry etc.
As a member of COW there are so many people out there looking for 'Screen accurate' jackets .. something i feel is impossible as on any given day the wardrobe department probably had 10 different jackets and the film has been graded etc ..
I think if you get a jacket the does the job and looks great its going to come down to a choice of a Cosplay jacket .. or a working jacket. Im after the latter. I've watched the movie a fair few times now and other than a couple of scenes .. its not that shiny to my eyes. (albeit they are not Nexus Grade). paint is not stable and age and UV will eventually destroy it .. theres a reason jackets are not painted. A wax jacket will literally last years and years if re-waxed.
interestingly though ... i have been doing some research into OILSKINS and that does produce a more shiny look due to the boiled linseed oil. there are again some great instructional videos online. the process of applying it iso remarkably similar. Wax, oil and turpentine boiled up together and cooled into a cake form .. Then applied as rub in compound and heated .. only difference ... slightly more shiny. But god alone knows what the smell would be like as linseed oil stinks .. maybe need a bit of ventilation.
Again .. im going with waxing as i think its bang on the money and right for a practical everyday use ...
