1/2700 Star Destoyer on the kitchen table

yeah, that stuff is great huh...I wonder why they wouldn't send you a sample? cheapos... I just walked over to the Ace across the street, I've got the ceramic type. I saw the other ones you mentioned, 6 bucks and change for a 4 pack...they're on lock down like razors at the drug store LOL. I think I'm going to leave it, it works. Thanks for the offer though, most kind of you. I just won't post any pics of the ones I used :lol

Escape068 said:

I can send you 6mm x 1.5mm neodymium magnets....... How many do you want?

I called Corbell and the lady said they do not send out samples. I called the 800 number on their website. I just found numbers for their many locations. I will call a few and see if they can send me out some samples. That stuff is really nice for light diffusing

Click to expand...

If you change you mind let me know.......

50 magnets for $5.29

https://www.ebay.com/itm/25-50-100-...var=471681270668&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649


I called Curbell again with a different number..........Took 5 minutes on the phone. Sending me an 8x10 sample of the one I mentioned before.

gt350pony66 said:

yeah, that stuff is great huh...I wonder why they wouldn't send you a sample? cheapos... I just walked over to the Ace across the street, I've got the ceramic type. I saw the other ones you mentioned, 6 bucks and change for a 4 pack...they're on lock down like razors at the drug store LOL. I think I'm going to leave it, it works. Thanks for the offer though, most kind of you. I just won't post any pics of the ones I used :lol

Click to expand...

I wish I had realized I needed to do this part BEFORE I secured the top of the command tower. Had to take the box the FO came it and chop it up for a support so I could work this. The .5mm strip that will contact the engine panel is closest to the edge, the panel end back stops on each rear corner, and the light block fence. all of it test fit good. I'm getting close to marrying the upper and lower hull pieces...after lots test fit of upper and lower. Once those kinks, if any are ironed out, then test fitting of all three major assemblies. As stated, the engine panel will be removable so I can change the 9V which will be mounted horizontally just below the center main bell LED. The engine panel and it's lighting is a sub assembly that has a micro connector to attach to the rest of the electrics. Then it's on to scratching a base to go under this oval stand I got for it, that will house the sound module and play 20 seconds of the "Empire March"...which is also the ring tone on my phone :lol

- - - Updated - - -

Cool! just gotta get the right person on the phone thumbsup

Escape068 said:

If you change you mind let me know.......

50 magnets for $5.29

https://www.ebay.com/itm/25-50-100-...var=471681270668&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649


I called Curbell again with a different number..........Took 5 minutes on the phone. Sending me an 8x10 sample of the one I mentioned before.

Click to expand...

my truck...big fan thumbsup

First of all, I want to say that following along with your progress on this build has been amazing! Just incredible work. It has also inspired me to start a Zvezda SD as my "first" project, once my work bench/space is completed. I am absolutely fascinated by the level of ingenuity displayed (by all) when a problem is diagnosed and the methods/materials used to solve it! Your "greeblie" work is killer!

So, I have a question for all that have posted here on the lighting, FO, etc.:

In reference to the lighting/painting of the engine bells, would it be feasible to paint the "inside" of the bell with a transparent UV Reactive Blacklight paint? Something thin/colorless that could be airbrushed? (and keep in mind I have never used these products)

Ex: https://www.amazon.com/Transparent-UV-Reactive-Blacklight-Paint/dp/B00BD4UZ9I

And if so, could it be "lit" with a UV LED lamp?

Ex: http://www.violed.com.tw/3mm Round Type UV LED Lamp.html

I thought that this might enhance the "glow" effect inside the bells. I realize that you would still need the bright blue LED as the core engine source, but maybe "treble" 3 UV's around the main blue LED? And perhaps this could be this could be done behind the diffuser?

As I read your post showing the different LED bulb colors for the bells, I couldn't help but think about the "blacklight" effect that is commonly used in so many ways.

Please understand, I am getting back into modelling after a LONG hiatus. And I am simply shocked at how much the materials and lighting have improved since my early days building! Usually, I brainstorm before a practical attempt...and I can't get this idea out of my head. So, before I make a small investment in UV paint/bulbs--and make an attempt, I was hoping that this technique has be explored by someone here. If ANYONE has had experience with enhancing the "GLOW" of engine lighting using these paints/bulbs/methods, I would love to see example/s.

And thank you, gt350pony66 for your beautiful work on this model! You have truly inspired me to track down one of these kits and make it my first foray back into this world.

Hey! Welcome aboard my friend! And thanks so mush for all the kind words to me and everyone here who has contributed SO MUCH with all the genius ideas. Like you, I dove back into modeling about a year and a half ago, I've learned so much from these other guys it's astounding and the great ideas just keep coming. Like your idea about the UV, I don't know that I've ever seen that done but it sounds awesome. perhaps one of the other guys has, we'll see if anyone chimes in on it. I'd love to see the attempt and the outcome for sure. Escape068 is the real electrical wizard here, he may have some insight on it for you. For myself, I'm still learning a lot of it but improving. Some of us are near completing our ISD's, but for sure, scribe up to any of our threads and when you start your own ISD, start a thread so the rest of us can follow along, perhaps help you out, and probably learn something new from you as well. You certainly seem like a guy that thinks outside the box and that's always a great thing:thumbsup. The other threads that are awesome on the ISD are Omnius' and Invar's threads. Guns Akimbo also has a good thread but hasn't posted anything to his in a few, but well worth a look. They've posted here so you should be able to track those down pretty easy, I suck and copy and paste:facepalm

Roy Batty said:

First of all, I want to say that following along with your progress on this build has been amazing! Just incredible work. It has also inspired me to start a Zvezda SD as my "first" project, once my work bench/space is completed. I am absolutely fascinated by the level of ingenuity displayed (by all) when a problem is diagnosed and the methods/materials used to solve it! Your "greeblie" work is killer!

So, I have a question for all that have posted here on the lighting, FO, etc.:

In reference to the lighting/painting of the engine bells, would it be feasible to paint the "inside" of the bell with a transparent UV Reactive Blacklight paint? Something thin/colorless that could be airbrushed? (and keep in mind I have never used these products)

Ex: https://www.amazon.com/Transparent-UV-Reactive-Blacklight-Paint/dp/B00BD4UZ9I

And if so, could it be "lit" with a UV LED lamp?

Ex: http://www.violed.com.tw/3mm Round Type UV LED Lamp.html

I thought that this might enhance the "glow" effect inside the bells. I realize that you would still need the bright blue LED as the core engine source, but maybe "treble" 3 UV's around the main blue LED? And perhaps this could be this could be done behind the diffuser?

As I read your post showing the different LED bulb colors for the bells, I couldn't help but think about the "blacklight" effect that is commonly used in so many ways.

Please understand, I am getting back into modelling after a LONG hiatus. And I am simply shocked at how much the materials and lighting have improved since my early days building! Usually, I brainstorm before a practical attempt...and I can't get this idea out of my head. So, before I make a small investment in UV paint/bulbs--and make an attempt, I was hoping that this technique has be explored by someone here. If ANYONE has had experience with enhancing the "GLOW" of engine lighting using these paints/bulbs/methods, I would love to see example/s.

And thank you, gt350pony66 for your beautiful work on this model! You have truly inspired me to track down one of these kits and make it my first foray back into this world.

Click to expand...

Also, I must give credit where credit is due, if not for Omnius, Invar, Escape068 and the other contributors, my build would be average. All the cool stuff I've done was from watching them and trying to duplicate their work. Absolutely great bunch here and I've never had so much fun with a build in my life :thumbsup

Roy Batty said:

First of all, I want to say that following along with your progress on this build has been amazing! Just incredible work. It has also inspired me to start a Zvezda SD as my "first" project, once my work bench/space is completed. I am absolutely fascinated by the level of ingenuity displayed (by all) when a problem is diagnosed and the methods/materials used to solve it! Your "greeblie" work is killer!

So, I have a question for all that have posted here on the lighting, FO, etc.:

In reference to the lighting/painting of the engine bells, would it be feasible to paint the "inside" of the bell with a transparent UV Reactive Blacklight paint? Something thin/colorless that could be airbrushed? (and keep in mind I have never used these products)

Ex: https://www.amazon.com/Transparent-UV-Reactive-Blacklight-Paint/dp/B00BD4UZ9I

And if so, could it be "lit" with a UV LED lamp?

Ex: http://www.violed.com.tw/3mm Round Type UV LED Lamp.html

I thought that this might enhance the "glow" effect inside the bells. I realize that you would still need the bright blue LED as the core engine source, but maybe "treble" 3 UV's around the main blue LED? And perhaps this could be this could be done behind the diffuser?

As I read your post showing the different LED bulb colors for the bells, I couldn't help but think about the "blacklight" effect that is commonly used in so many ways.

Please understand, I am getting back into modelling after a LONG hiatus. And I am simply shocked at how much the materials and lighting have improved since my early days building! Usually, I brainstorm before a practical attempt...and I can't get this idea out of my head. So, before I make a small investment in UV paint/bulbs--and make an attempt, I was hoping that this technique has be explored by someone here. If ANYONE has had experience with enhancing the "GLOW" of engine lighting using these paints/bulbs/methods, I would love to see example/s.

And thank you, gt350pony66 for your beautiful work on this model! You have truly inspired me to track down one of these kits and make it my first foray back into this world.

Click to expand...

- - - Updated - - -

I almost forgot, way cool handle you got...Roy Batty :thumbsup

Roy Batty said:

First of all, I want to say that following along with your progress on this build has been amazing! Just incredible work. It has also inspired me to start a Zvezda SD as my "first" project, once my work bench/space is completed. I am absolutely fascinated by the level of ingenuity displayed (by all) when a problem is diagnosed and the methods/materials used to solve it! Your "greeblie" work is killer!

So, I have a question for all that have posted here on the lighting, FO, etc.:

In reference to the lighting/painting of the engine bells, would it be feasible to paint the "inside" of the bell with a transparent UV Reactive Blacklight paint? Something thin/colorless that could be airbrushed? (and keep in mind I have never used these products)

Ex: https://www.amazon.com/Transparent-UV-Reactive-Blacklight-Paint/dp/B00BD4UZ9I

And if so, could it be "lit" with a UV LED lamp?

Ex: http://www.violed.com.tw/3mm Round Type UV LED Lamp.html

I thought that this might enhance the "glow" effect inside the bells. I realize that you would still need the bright blue LED as the core engine source, but maybe "treble" 3 UV's around the main blue LED? And perhaps this could be this could be done behind the diffuser?

As I read your post showing the different LED bulb colors for the bells, I couldn't help but think about the "blacklight" effect that is commonly used in so many ways.

Please understand, I am getting back into modelling after a LONG hiatus. And I am simply shocked at how much the materials and lighting have improved since my early days building! Usually, I brainstorm before a practical attempt...and I can't get this idea out of my head. So, before I make a small investment in UV paint/bulbs--and make an attempt, I was hoping that this technique has be explored by someone here. If ANYONE has had experience with enhancing the "GLOW" of engine lighting using these paints/bulbs/methods, I would love to see example/s.

And thank you, gt350pony66 for your beautiful work on this model! You have truly inspired me to track down one of these kits and make it my first foray back into this world.

Click to expand...

hey Roy, just had a thought...if you don't want to start another thread later, I see no reason you can't use this one if you want to, just let the rest of us know so we can follow along. Whatever works :thumbsup

I appreciate that! I was actually thinking of asking the same question in it's own thread. Didn't know if that would conflict with the RPF rules/policies....just really curious to learn if someone has tried this, and if it was a success or not. If so, I will start experimenting with various products/methods.

All good, some folks here don't like having others post their work on a thread that's not their own, but I invited everyone to post stuff here if they didn't already have a thread of their own. I like seeing what others are doing and not concerned about someone hijacking my thread. I see it as a group effort and whatever is on the thread that pertains to the subject, it matters not where it comes from. If you're going to get a kit and planning on getting the upgrade bells, you'll have your box stock parts to experiment with. But if you plan to use the bells out of the kit, let me know. I've got a set from the kit that you're welcome to for experimentation. Gladly throw them in a box and mail to you. :thumbsup

Roy Batty said:

I appreciate that! I was actually thinking of asking the same question in it's own thread. Didn't know if that would conflict with the RPF rules/policies....just really curious to learn if someone has tried this, and if it was a success or not. If so, I will start experimenting with various products/methods.

Click to expand...

Been lurking the last few months, but was also prompted to register because of all the enjoyment (and tips) I've gotten following your odyssey gt350pony66.

I of course have my own Revell version of the kit that I've been hacking away on (literally- as I'm now mostly working to make holes in the support walls for the FO)

Like you, I'm using .25mm FO which strikes me as critical to getting across the proper sense of scale.

Seems like there is no end to the holes that need to be drilled. And I don't know how anyone can keep their sanity using just a pin vise. I started off with that and the #80 bits- but after breaking an average of one bit for every two holes made, I decided to change tactics. I picked up a tamiya hand drill, and using a collet from the pin vise along with slightly larger bits (#78 and #76) I've now been able to get most of the light holes in the separate panels drilled.

Now its a matter of going on to the main ship structure and drilling/scraping out larger holes so I can get a clean, unobstructed pass through.
Even with the hand drill and a much larger bit, this is taking what seems like forever though.

And then, all because of you guys, I've decided to increase the height of the main side trenches. This thing will never end.

I noticed someone else responded to Roy in the other thread he made. Yeah, the big problem with UV is the safety in regards to your eyes. So you can't really enjoy any effect that could be created in regards to the light inside the engine bells, without putting your eyesight at serious risk.

I recently bought some black light devices (a 12" tube and a UV flashlight) along with some Blu Fluo fabric paint to use in conjunction with a black velvet FO star field I'm going to be fashioning as a backdrop for these kits once they're done. Unfortunately I realized that the 12" tube was just not going to put out enough strong UV light to counteract the ambient light I would need to see the models or figures, and the UV flashlight, while making a stronger beam, was too sharply demarcated. It looked like what it was- a spotlight being shined on the fabric.

In addition to that, the blue paint was superfluous in conjunction with the black light anyway. While the blue (for the galaxy density) looked better in normal light, what really popped best for using the black light was simply white. The UV light already had a coloration to it and the pure white just glowed better. It also screwed up the look of the FO star points that were in the beam of light vs ones that were just outside it.

oh well.

Hey there Miles, welcome! Thanks for joining our group. I see your digging in, awesome. Thanks for the thumbs up on behalf of all of us. We've all given to the rest as far as add ons, and great ideas to make our builds better. most of my upgrades are due to Invar, Omnius and Escape068, really clever guys. I'm sure Roy found your insight on the lighting useful.
Be sure to check out the work that Omnius and Invar have done with raising the walls, extra greeblies and particularly Invar with his extreme detail on his engine panel and trenches, like omnius' work, I simply marvel at what they've done. Which Tamiya drill did you get? most popular is the blue one, but I opted for the tan one which drills at a higher speed. I only broke one bit in around 1400 FO holes. Yeah, sounds like a lot huh, but when you're using the .25mm FO, you can go a lot further and it doesn't take up a lot of space but it can get messy if you don't keep it organized. looking forward to seeing your pics if you'd care to post some, or if you start your own thread, let us know where to find it. You are certainly welcome to put stuff up here as well [:thumbsupQUOTE=Miles Kendig;4389177]Been lurking the last few months, but was also prompted to register because of all the enjoyment (and tips) I've gotten following your odyssey gt350pony66.

I of course have my own Revell version of the kit that I've been hacking away on (literally- as I'm now mostly working to make holes in the support walls for the FO)

Like you, I'm using .25mm FO which strikes me as critical to getting across the proper sense of scale.

Seems like there is no end to the holes that need to be drilled. And I don't know how anyone can keep their sanity using just a pin vise. I started off with that and the #80 bits- but after breaking an average of one bit for every two holes made, I decided to change tactics. I picked up a tamiya hand drill, and using a collet from the pin vise along with slightly larger bits (#78 and #76) I've now been able to get most of the light holes in the separate panels drilled.

Now its a matter of going on to the main ship structure and drilling/scraping out larger holes so I can get a clean, unobstructed pass through.
Even with the hand drill and a much larger bit, this is taking what seems like forever though.

And then, all because of you guys, I've decided to increase the height of the main side trenches. This thing will never end.

I noticed someone else responded to Roy in the other thread he made. Yeah, the big problem with UV is the safety in regards to your eyes. So you can't really enjoy any effect that could be created in regards to the light inside the engine bells, without putting your eyesight at serious risk.

I recently bought some black light devices (a 12" tube and a UV flashlight) along with some Blu Fluo fabric paint to use in conjunction with a black velvet FO star field I'm going to be fashioning as a backdrop for these kits once they're done. Unfortunately I realized that the 12" tube was just not going to put out enough strong UV light to counteract the ambient light I would need to see the models or figures, and the UV flashlight, while making a stronger beam, was too sharply demarcated. It looked like what it was- a spotlight being shined on the fabric.

In addition to that, the blue paint was superfluous in conjunction with the black light anyway. While the blue (for the galaxy density) looked better in normal light, what really popped best for using the black light was simply white. The UV light already had a coloration to it and the pure white just glowed better. It also screwed up the look of the FO star points that were in the beam of light vs ones that were just outside it.

oh well.[/QUOTE]

This is a test of the ISD lighting system, this is only a test..BRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR, this has been a test of the ISD lighting system, had this been a real final assembly you would not have seen any light leaks. :lol with no more Radio Shack, and Fry's Electronics sucking so bad, I'd had a proper holder for the 9V, so I improvised with scraps and a tiny strip of Velcro. it works. now off to Michael's craft store to find an oval box to go under the stand to house the sound module and perhaps a few more LED's to shine up on the bottom of the ship, though they likely won't be needed except for effect.

- - - Updated - - -

Yeah, I saw it...one of the baffles on the port bell is off by one space :facepalm I tried to pry it back off, but I'm afraid I'll break it...so it'll have to stay as there are no spares :wacko

Now that's looking REALLY good!

Amazing work. It’s an inspiration.

gt350pony66 said:

View attachment 787236View attachment 787237View attachment 787238This is a test of the ISD lighting system, this is only a test..BRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR, this has been a test of the ISD lighting system, had this been a real final assembly you would not have seen any light leaks. :lol with no more Radio Shack, and Fry's Electronics sucking so bad, I'd had a proper holder for the 9V, so I improvised with scraps and a tiny strip of Velcro. it works. now off to Michael's craft store to find an oval box to go under the stand to house the sound module and perhaps a few more LED's to shine up on the bottom of the ship, though they likely won't be needed except for effect.

- - - Updated - - -

Yeah, I saw it...one of the baffles on the port bell is off by one space :facepalm I tried to pry it back off, but I'm afraid I'll break it...so it'll have to stay as there are no spares :wacko

Click to expand...

MAGNIFICENT! Looks great!

I am still many, many months away to arriving at where you have on your build. I'm still at the greeblie stage of the raised trenches:

Many thanks my friend, much thanks to you and the work you have done, inspiring! Some time this year, probably in the fall I intend to do another one of these and plan to take all that I've learned from you and Omnius on the additions and do something truely spectacular. You're looking good there buddy, I'm beyond impressed with you patience and endless pursuit of the smallest of detail, truly astounding! :thumbsup

INVAR said:

MAGNIFICENT! Looks great!

I am still many, many months away to arriving at where you have on your build. I'm still at the greeblie stage of the raised trenches:

View attachment 787337View attachment 787338

Click to expand...

- - - Updated - - -

Many thanks Buds, I'm pretty happy with it so far...but I think later this year I'm going to do another and go all out balls to the wall like Invar and Omnius...those guys are amazing!

32buds said:

Now that's looking REALLY good!

Click to expand...

- - - Updated - - -

Many thanks my friend, and welcome! If you like what I've done, be sure to check out the work of our fellow here, Invar and Omnius...those guys are dedicated genius' !!!:thumbsup

Far Far Away said:

Amazing work. It’s an inspiration.

Click to expand...

Thought for sure finding an oval shaped box close to the size of the acrylic stand would be easy...not the case. So, I had to settle for another one of these. the sides are wrapped with unused MPC Falcon side walls, as I use the corrected upgrade walls that are much shorter. Trimmed the top and bottom with Evergreen stock, shot a light coat of black, then the Corax white. I mounted the sound module in the box and used some other unused Falcon parts to fashion a button. On the top I drilled for 8, 2mm LED's that are just inside the edge of the acrylic piece that holds the ISD. Already got the Empire March loaded on the sound module and it plays fine, but the sound quality is off, have to try to re-record till it sounds better. I just pulled the ring tone from my phone. probably should plug in one of the movies and get it off the TV speakers.

Very nice base!!! That is going to look really awesome with the SD on top. I like the perimeter lighting!!

Where did you get the box and what is the size?

For my SD hopefully priming the sub assemblies this weekend. Im finished all FO, LEDs and 75% of the wiring. I will be finalizing where my 6 channel RF switch will go but waiting for an item to be delivered at the end of the week to do this. I still have to greeblie the engine block in between all of this. I plan on priming the individual sub assemblies then join them together and prime the trench and any seams that remain. Paint the entire ship Corax white do a light wash then seal. Cut off the hundreds of FO that are sticking out.

Pictures of what I have done so far maybe tomorrow or Thursday

gt350pony66 said:

View attachment 787691View attachment 787692View attachment 787693View attachment 787694View attachment 787695Thought for sure finding an oval shaped box close to the size of the acrylic stand would be easy...not the case. So, I had to settle for another one of these. the sides are wrapped with unused MPC Falcon side walls, as I use the corrected upgrade walls that are much shorter. Trimmed the top and bottom with Evergreen stock, shot a light coat of black, then the Corax white. I mounted the sound module in the box and used some other unused Falcon parts to fashion a button. On the top I drilled for 8, 2mm LED's that are just inside the edge of the acrylic piece that holds the ISD. Already got the Empire March loaded on the sound module and it plays fine, but the sound quality is off, have to try to re-record till it sounds better. I just pulled the ring tone from my phone. probably should plug in one of the movies and get it off the TV speakers.

Click to expand...

hey, thanks brother! the box was just a simple wood thing from Michael's craft store, like 5 bucks. its like a 5x8 about 1.5 deep. I really wanted the same shape as the acrylic base but none to be found. I used this same box on a Pegasus Nautilus model I did for a friend, it works and it was easy to stick the greeblie walls on it rather than a plain box. Have you already examined Invar's pics good? you'll need a sort of guide to get the Evergreen at your hobby store so you don't run into a snag. even having all the Evergreen and a good box of scraps it still took a couple weeks for the engine greeblies. But, it's well worth the effort! :thumbsup Sounds like you're right on my heels at nearing the finish line. I've had a bit of trouble with my two sensors on mine. I turn on the windows and set the brightness, then turn on the engines and try to set that, but its sending a signal to the other sensor and operating both :facepalm So I think I'm going to try to lay aluminum foil over the back of the sensors to try to reflect the signals?

Escape068 said:

Very nice base!!! That is going to look really awesome with the SD on top. I like the perimeter lighting!!

Where did you get the box and what is the size?

For my SD hopefully priming the sub assemblies this weekend. Im finished all FO, LEDs and 75% of the wiring. I will be finalizing where my 6 channel RF switch will go but waiting for an item to be delivered at the end of the week to do this. I still have to greeblie the engine block in between all of this. I plan on priming the individual sub assemblies then join them together and prime the trench and any seams that remain. Paint the entire ship Corax white do a light wash then seal. Cut off the hundreds of FO that are sticking out.

Pictures of what I have done so far maybe tomorrow or Thursday

Click to expand...