X-wing Fighter 1/72 bandai on the kitchen table

yeah, I think that's well within the ball part. you got pics of it?

whb64 said:

No need for calipers I just wanted to know if I was in the right ballpark size wise.

Yeah I just printed three Snow Speeders just for the fun of it... and so I can have a 1/72 for my collection. I figured it was kind of a waste to just print one since there was room on the build plate. Honestly, I think even these are painted they won't look as nice as the one you scratch built. The one advantage I can see if something like this could give you the basic shape and then you can go to town with the custom detailing like you did.

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gt, your display is turning out phenomenal... For some reason I tried doing lit engine bells with the T-70 kit... yea not so much room in there - especially when I just *HAD* to have my battery in the fuselage for some reason (flexablity of display I guess). 2x LR44s are only enough to power the leds for a few hours but I also have a small short somewhere causing the batts to drain even when off. I need to re-attack and keep my batteries tied together tighter and the lights might last longer. A revisit project later on for sure - for now my final paint and weathering job makes for a great non - lit display.


Pwr switch hidden behind cockpit

OTE=Wolfy762;4461972]gt, your display is turning out phenomenal... For some reason I tried doing lit engine bells with the T-70 kit... yea not so much room in there - especially when I just *HAD* to have my battery in the fuselage for some reason (flexablity of display I guess). 2x LR44s are only enough to power the leds for a few hours but I also have a small short somewhere causing the batts to drain even when off. I need to re-attack and keep my batteries tied together tighter and the lights might last longer. A revisit project later on for sure - for now my final paint and weathering job makes for a great non - lit display.
View attachment 817196
View attachment 817197
Pwr switch hidden behind cockpit
View attachment 817198
View attachment 817199[/QUOTE]
Hey there brother, thanks for the compliment! It's coming along, slowly. Is that a Bandai? Not so much room in those for batteries is there...I've run into that myself, frustrating huh. Those look like the really thick batteries too. Can't imagine they only go that long. Do you have the voltage paired right to the LED's? that might be your problem. I've been using LED's with a resistor that will take either from 3 to 7, or 5 to 12. If your resistor isn't right it'll either burn your LED or run out of juice real fast. Looks great otherwise. If you just press fit and not glued it, I'd take another run at the lighting. The way you have it displayed, on a stand, in flight, you could always use a two "coin" type battery holder, run the wires through the stand, and put the holder under the stand. Just put some cut sprue under the stand to raise it up just enough to make room for the battery holder, say 3/8th of an inch, then run some evergreen stock around the edged of the stand base to the table and paint accordingly. that mght give you longer battery life (lit time) and of course reposition your switch to an inconspicuous location. Let me know what you do, I'm interested to see...heck, ALL of us here are interested. Having a thread be fun and everyone sharing is what makes this great!

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I forgot to mention...use the holders that have the two coin cells sitting side by side, not stacked, then it'll be really flat and not take up space. And if you mount it under the stand, it's easier to change out the batteries. :thumbsup

gt350pony66 said:

yeah, I think that's well within the ball part. you got pics of it?

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The primer is still tacky... and I need to clean up the drain opening and then do detailing



And next to the Bandai X-Wing I am working on

You printed that...well h3ll yeah dude! that's freakin' awesome!! I got to get me-self one of those printers! YEE HAW :thumbsup

whb64 said:

The primer is still tacky... and I need to clean up the drain opening and then do detailing

View attachment 817257View attachment 817256View attachment 817255View attachment 817254

And next to the Bandai X-Wing I am working on

View attachment 817259

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leave it to the Germans...too produce good German troop figures. if you're doing a dio, these are pretty nice. regular injection mold plastic, not the goofy flexible ones that always seem to be "slightly distorted". very little flash on them, good faces, and extremities. Although the poses are limited they look nice, and painted properly, will serve well as rebel base troops. had a funny thought...though they still "look" like 3rd Reich guys...I'm wondering once I place Mr. Solo in there, is he gonna see them and mutter...
"Nazis...I hate these guys" LOL:lol

Hey, I'm looking at these pics, and you said the primer was still tacky? Did you gently wash that with all purpose cleaner or rubbing alcohol and a soft tooth brush once it cured? Evidently the printing process leaves a residue you need to wash off or the paint will stay gooey. You probably know that already but I thought I'd mention it. The very first stuff I got from Shapeways did that, and I asked them and that's what they told me. If your paint isn't drying, that's likely why.

whb64 said:

The primer is still tacky... and I need to clean up the drain opening and then do detailing

View attachment 817257View attachment 817256View attachment 817255View attachment 817254

And next to the Bandai X-Wing I am working on

View attachment 817259

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tacky as in 'just sprayed'! Yeah it was washed and had a good IPA and water bath, that's part of the print process to get the resin off so you don't get it all over your hands and get skit irritation

I figured you knew...just making sure. as deep as you are into printing now, you had to have known. Hope you didn't take that the wrong way brother thumbsup

whb64 said:

tacky as in 'just sprayed'! Yeah it was washed and had a good IPA and water bath, that's part of the print process to get the resin off so you don't get it all over your hands and get skit irritation

Click to expand...

Nope didn't take it wrong at all.
I am still very new to 3D printing and I'd say I really know nothing at this point, but I am learning.

What did you think of the snowspeeders? These were the 3rd thing I printed and already I know a bit more and can reorient them and get an even better print for the next ones. These will be great though for dioramas of the speeder being stepped on by the AT-AT

whb64 said:

Nope didn't take it wrong at all.
I am still very new to 3D printing and I'd say I really know nothing at this point, but I am learning.

What did you think of the snowspeeders? These were the 3rd thing I printed and already I know a bit more and can reorient them and get an even better print for the next ones. These will be great though for dioramas of the speeder being stepped on by the AT-AT

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post #365...absolutely awesome! that's killer printing for right out of the gate!:thumbsup And they are certainly much better than just being used for being stepped on by a Walker. If I didn't already have these Retrokits...that were a ridiculous 27.99 each :cry, I'd be asking you to print me a few. I do like the option of having the canopy up, BUT, I would have gladly done without. These MF'ers came from the UK, and after shipping and everything...I think I spent over 100 bucks on 3 of 'em :facepalm

Got the Taun Taun with Luke today, hard to see the detail in it's frosted translucent state, but I think after a shot of primer it'll liven up. The of course after proper paint and a light wash, it should look pretty good. I'm still in agony about what I had to pay for the d@mn thing though. I'm thinking I really should make a mold of it before I do anything, so I can make a few more...or perhaps, just maybe I can con Bill into printing me some more! :lol

gt350pony66 said:

post #365...absolutely awesome! that's killer printing for right out of the gate!:thumbsup And they are certainly much better than just being used for being stepped on by a Walker. If I didn't already have these Retrokits...that were a ridiculous 27.99 each :cry, I'd be asking you to print me a few. I do like the option of having the canopy up, BUT, I would have gladly done without. These MF'ers came from the UK, and after shipping and everything...I think I spent over 100 bucks on 3 of 'em :facepalm

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The beauty is even with my limited knowledge and skill set right now I can remove the canopy using Meshmixer. If you have anything you want printed let me know. The 'present' I mentioned is/was an Echo Base gantry and hanger bay work lights (they look like triangular wedges that sit on the floor, kinda like stage lights. I have three different Echo Base gantries, but to be honest I really only see a difference between two of them. I have one in the printer right now

gt350pony66 said:

Got the Taun Taun with Luke today, hard to see the detail in it's frosted translucent state, but I think after a shot of primer it'll liven up. The of course after proper paint and a light wash, it should look pretty good. I'm still in agony about what I had to pay for the d@mn thing though. I'm thinking I really should make a mold of it before I do anything, so I can make a few more...or perhaps, just maybe I can con Bill into printing me some more! :lol

Click to expand...

You'll be amazed at the detail once you get a coat of primer on it. The primer brings it all out and let's you see the depth and details.

If we can find an .stl or obj file I can print it!

[/QUOTE]
Hey there brother, thanks for the compliment! It's coming along, slowly. Is that a Bandai? Not so much room in those for batteries is there...I've run into that myself, frustrating huh. Those look like the really thick batteries too. Can't imagine they only go that long. Do you have the voltage paired right to the LED's? that might be your problem. I've been using LED's with a resistor that will take either from 3 to 7, or 5 to 12. If your resistor isn't right it'll either burn your LED or run out of juice real fast. Looks great otherwise. If you just press fit and not glued it, I'd take another run at the lighting. The way you have it displayed, on a stand, in flight, you could always use a two "coin" type battery holder, run the wires through the stand, and put the holder under the stand. Just put some cut sprue under the stand to raise it up just enough to make room for the battery holder, say 3/8th of an inch, then run some evergreen stock around the edged of the stand base to the table and paint accordingly. that mght give you longer battery life (lit time) and of course reposition your switch to an inconspicuous location. Let me know what you do, I'm interested to see...heck, ALL of us here are interested. Having a thread be fun and everyone sharing is what makes this great!

- - - Updated - - -

I forgot to mention...use the holders that have the two coin cells sitting side by side, not stacked, then it'll be really flat and not take up space. And if you mount it under the stand, it's easier to change out the batteries. :thumbsup[/QUOTE]

Thanks for the words of encouragement.. I actually had an hour today to crack this back open and replace my batts. Yes it is a Bandai T70 and its just press fit together so the interior is pretty accessible. I did end up removing some of the over redundant pegs and slots to make room for those LR44s bu now they are 377 batts held in place with magnets! Way more room. I also added the proper resistor after doing a calculation for the 4 LEDs i have in series instead of just throwing them in there. I will probably go ahead wire it to the stand eventually with the 1.5v coin battes underneath like you said. I actually have the holders for those already. I know it probably wont last too long with the 3x 377s but I wont turn in it on much - its really just for show every once in a while. Looking forward to seeing your final build.

Thanks again!



The switch is actually in the cockpit when closed


I forgot I had some free battle damage from the old crappy soldering iron I dont use anymore. ended up using a decal under the burn and adding some silver and smoke.


POWER!


With a TIE I did something similar to.


No stand.

Ross how tall/wide is your gantry?

Man. There are other, more appropriate, fora for that sort of talk!

hey now, that's pretty slick, and quite crafty how you stuffed that battery pack in there, I love it. That looks really good dude, well done :thumbsup Glad you got it worked out. I'm of that same thinking with battery run builds...not like it'll be on that often and for very long. This diorama though, I want to be able to have it on for extended periods of time so I'm going wall adapter for it. besides, there are going to be quite a good many lit items in this as well and batteries just aren't an option.
Hey there brother, thanks for the compliment! It's coming along, slowly. Is that a Bandai? Not so much room in those for batteries is there...I've run into that myself, frustrating huh. Those look like the really thick batteries too. Can't imagine they only go that long. Do you have the voltage paired right to the LED's? that might be your problem. I've been using LED's with a resistor that will take either from 3 to 7, or 5 to 12. If your resistor isn't right it'll either burn your LED or run out of juice real fast. Looks great otherwise. If you just press fit and not glued it, I'd take another run at the lighting. The way you have it displayed, on a stand, in flight, you could always use a two "coin" type battery holder, run the wires through the stand, and put the holder under the stand. Just put some cut sprue under the stand to raise it up just enough to make room for the battery holder, say 3/8th of an inch, then run some evergreen stock around the edged of the stand base to the table and paint accordingly. that mght give you longer battery life (lit time) and of course reposition your switch to an inconspicuous location. Let me know what you do, I'm interested to see...heck, ALL of us here are interested. Having a thread be fun and everyone sharing is what makes this great!

- - - Updated - - -

I forgot to mention...use the holders that have the two coin cells sitting side by side, not stacked, then it'll be really flat and not take up space. And if you mount it under the stand, it's easier to change out the batteries. :thumbsup[/QUOTE]

Thanks for the words of encouragement.. I actually had an hour today to crack this back open and replace my batts. Yes it is a Bandai T70 and its just press fit together so the interior is pretty accessible. I did end up removing some of the over redundant pegs and slots to make room for those LR44s bu now they are 377 batts held in place with magnets! Way more room. I also added the proper resistor after doing a calculation for the 4 LEDs i have in series instead of just throwing them in there. I will probably go ahead wire it to the stand eventually with the 1.5v coin battes underneath like you said. I actually have the holders for those already. I know it probably wont last too long with the 3x 377s but I wont turn in it on much - its really just for show every once in a while. Looking forward to seeing your final build.

Thanks again!

View attachment 817538

The switch is actually in the cockpit when closed
View attachment 817543

I forgot I had some free battle damage from the old crappy soldering iron I dont use anymore. ended up using a decal under the burn and adding some silver and smoke.
View attachment 817544

POWER!
View attachment 817539

With a TIE I did something similar to.
View attachment 817541

No stand.
View attachment 817542[/QUOTE]

Cool, though I don't know how, or where to start looking for that but I'll dig into it :thumbsup I'm really leaning hard into getting one of those like you got.

whb64 said:

You'll be amazed at the detail once you get a coat of primer on it. The primer brings it all out and let's you see the depth and details.

If we can find an .stl or obj file I can print it!

Click to expand...

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lol

nkg said:

Man. There are other, more appropriate, fora for that sort of talk!

Click to expand...

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Not sure, but I'll measure it up this evening when I get home and let you know :thumbsup

whb64 said:

Ross how tall/wide is your gantry?

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got the Taun with Luke yesterday, looks pretty good, although the cost was ghastly...I needed to have it. here are the marching German made, Germans. they all look the same, but there are a pair each that were slightly different. They all started out with the arms in pretty much the same position as the guy on the right end. I decided to attempt some arm bending with tweezers and a soldering iron. I put each one in the "helping hands" and rested the iron on the arm of the helping hands, getting the hot tip as close as I could without touching the figures. them I held the arms with tweezers until I was able to move them and bend and twist into positions so that I can attach some 1/72 HK rifles I found on Shapeways. One guy is gonna be a lefty, and two right handed. One guy I left alone as he will have his rifle slung. this is what I'm 'loosely' going for, as well as the pilots getting the briefing from Leia