Blade Runner Blaster news: model kit version of the Tomenosuke Blaster is coming

Prefect42 · Jun 2, 2013

Clutch,

Do you know who built this one? I'm curious about the type of bluing agent used on this one.

I finally 'pulled the trigger' and bought a kit. Should be here in a day or two. Mune had been absolutely fantastic. Quite helpful.

Ted.
Prefect42

Clutch said:
I already asked about the bolt. You have to file some of the Steyr receiver to get the lever to clear it. No way I'd force these soft metals. I really like the look of this one!!

http://pds.exblog.jp/pds/1/200811/16/42/a0077842_9573327.jpg

Clutch · Jun 2, 2013

Sorry Ted, I do not know. I can't even find the site that I ganked the picture from. Lol! I got the sandpaper out today. You quickly start to see the pitting and imperfections in the metal. Majority was taken care of with a scotchbrite pad and steel wool. The lever had mold lines and 'circles' that needed to be sanded out. I also got the black off the set screws and the hex cap screw:

Prefect42 · Jun 2, 2013

No worries, Clutch. It's a nice picture to add to my collection.

When people in this thread talk about a 'scotch-brite pad, is it referring to the yellow/green and two-tone blue ones? Stainless steel or steel wool? Is there a favorite one? I've got to go shopping before my kit arrives.

Ted.

Clutch · Jun 2, 2013

This is what I'm using.

The steel wool is 0000.

BeastMaster · Jun 3, 2013

Clutch said:
I already asked about the bolt. You have to file some of the Steyr receiver to get the lever to clear it. No way I'd force these soft metals. I really like the look of this one!!

http://pds.exblog.jp/pds/1/200811/16/42/a0077842_9573327.jpg

Oh yeah! That's the finish

Is this phasepistols too? I emailed Mune and he said they used Caseys Aluminium Black. has anyone used this stuff? http://tenshu53.exblog.jp/17775272/ I'd assume it just turns it black? and why is there Super blue in the pic?

He also said that the metal was a zinc alloy. I wanted to know as I heard somewhere it was zinc plated and was worried if I filed/cleaned areas down the blueing would react to the base metal differently to the plating.

In order to fully pull out the bolt lever you need to file out a bit off the surface area on the left of the bolt lever cutaway on the receiver.

Dave that barrel is just too awesome! You're gonna be a busy guy after showing these pics

I'd really like to see what you do with the grips too.

BeastMaster · Jun 3, 2013

I also noticed the bindpost isn't too accurate. It is missing the toothed base and has a smaller girth mid cylinder. A bit confusing as I thought this was one of the details they were taking time to improve on ???PRO????????????????????? : ???? ????? ??????

Prefect42 · Jun 3, 2013

Clutch,

I'm just going to leave a general 'thank you' here as you keep helping me with answers.

Much appreciated.

The discussion about the best gun blue to use is helpful. I'm tempted by the Casey's Super Blue but would prefer more of a blue / black look to the brown / black it seems to achieve.

And to Dave and that incredible replacement barrel, I too cannot wait. It's a beauty.

My kit just arrived today and I've got to say it far exceeded my expectations. By far, to my eye, the nicest of the metal blasters I've held or owned. So glad I got one of the beauties.

Ted.

DBoz · Jun 3, 2013

BeastMaster said:
I also noticed the bindpost isn't too accurate. It is missing the toothed base and has a smaller girth mid cylinder. A bit confusing as I thought this was one of the details they were taking time to improve on ???PRO????????????????????? : ???? ????? ??????

Yeah, I was a little disappointed in the binding post as well. It seems a bit under scaled. It did come with the toothed base, though. It is a separate piece that slips over the end like a washer.

Darth Infamous · Jun 3, 2013

I tried both the Casey's super blue and the perma blue. I found the perma to get me a better blue tint. Weird. Maybe because of the type of metal. I put on many coats. Each coat I would lightly steel wool it. I still want to go one shade darker but maybe the barricade finish will deepen the finish

PeterLC · Jun 3, 2013

If it's anything like Customs here in Australia, any item not deemed legal to import will be destroyed. I've had it happen with a couple of things but not my full metal Richard Coyle Blade Runner pistol kit thankfully. It also seems to depends who is working at Customs that day. Some of them are really picky while others are a bit more understanding.

Yorkie Fett said:
Forgot to ask in that last post but would the kits get sent back to Japan (so a refund would be a possibility), or would they just be scrapped?

cratercritter · Jun 3, 2013

PeterLC said:
If it's anything like Customs here in Australia, any item not deemed legal to import will be destroyed. I've had it happen with a couple of things but not my full metal Richard Coyle Blade Runner pistol kit thankfully. It also seems to depends who is working at Customs that day. Some of them are really picky while others are a bit more understanding.

opcornSounds rather 'hit & miss'. Not all items deemed illegal are destroyed. Replica guns are regulated in Australia. Customs usually hold them and ask the recipient to submit the B709A permit or other relevant permit before they are released onto the permit holder.

:cool

cratercritter · Jun 3, 2013

Yorkie Fett said:
Forgot to ask in that last post but would the kits get sent back to Japan (so a refund would be a possibility), or would they just be scrapped?

Best people to ask are the Customs Officers (and sometimes the police, if necessary) in your Country. They know the law and should be able to give you up-to-date and accurate advice on this issue.
:ninja

PeterLC · Jun 3, 2013

Certain replicas will be destroyed here no matter what, as you cannot get a permit for some replicas because of the types of guns they replicate. They also would not allow a machined batarang (no permit could be gotten for that either) and they destroyed a "toy" gun which was a clear springer airsoft pistol. With other stuff it is held and you are contacted by Customs to see if you have a permit.

cratercritter said:
opcornSounds rather 'hit & miss'. Not all items deemed illegal are destroyed. Replica guns are regulated in Australia. Customs usually hold them and ask the recipient to submit the B709A permit or other relevant permit before they are released onto the permit holder.

:cool

Yorkie Fett · Jun 4, 2013

cratercritter said:
Best people to ask are the Customs Officers (and sometimes the police, if necessary) in your Country. They know the law and should be able to give you up-to-date and accurate advice on this issue.
:ninja

This appears to be the problem, though.
If some of these kits are getting in to the UK and some (appear to be) blocked, then you can't get answers as different officials will have different ideas about what is and isn't allowed.

Darth Infamous · Jun 4, 2013

I have a question on the trigger install. Do you have to tap the pins in with some pressure? These are the pins that hold the triggers into the bulldog frame.

Carl

Reacher · Jun 4, 2013

Darth Infamous said:
I have a question on the trigger install. Do you have to tap the pins in with some pressure? These are the pins that hold the triggers into the bulldog frame.

Carl

They are stiff, probably designed to be so they stay in place. I found they did push in with a bit of persuasion. I used the flat side of steel ruler to push down on so the pins didn't stick in my thumb!

BeastMaster · Jun 4, 2013

On the grips there are images of the hero where they look more yellow, so it's difficult to determine with photos as colour varies depending on light. The best pic I saw was a Tomenosuke grip placed next to the hero grip where the two looked pretty much the same. The thing is I'm not sure which version of the tomenosuke grip that was as it was taken at the first prototype stage.

Though looking at the kit grips they're quite close to this.

So is anyone going to try the Aluminium Black finish? I'm wondering whether to order some or not :\ More blueing pics please!

Darth Infamous · Jun 4, 2013

Reacher said:
They are stiff, probably designed to be so they stay in place. I found they did push in with a bit of persuasion. I used the flat side of steel ruler to push down on so the pins didn't stick in my thumb!

Ya I found with some gentle plier pressure they wedged in. Now they are in for good lol

Carl

DaveG · Jun 4, 2013

Darth Infamous said:
I have a question on the trigger install. Do you have to tap the pins in with some pressure? These are the pins that hold the triggers into the bulldog frame.

Carl

The absolute best tool for this job is a small arbor press. It's not that it takes a lot of force, but an arbor press allows you to press the pins in with a great deal of control so they don't get crocked or you slip and mar the frame. This is also the best way to instal the Hand Pin (39) in the Hand (38).

HarborFreight has a nice cheap little 1/2 ton arbor press for $35. Maybe assembling a blaster isn't enough of a reason to get one, but they're pretty handy to have.

- - - Updated - - -

Has anyone tried removeing the blueing from the zinc by soaking in vinegar?

Darth Infamous · Jun 5, 2013

DaveG said:
The absolute best tool for this job is a small arbor press. It's not that it takes a lot of force, but an arbor press allows you to press the pins in with a great deal of control so they don't get crocked or you slip and mar the frame. This is also the best way to instal the Hand Pin (39) in the Hand (38).

HarborFreight has a nice cheap little 1/2 ton arbor press for $35. Maybe assembling a blaster isn't enough of a reason to get one, but they're pretty handy to have.

- - - Updated - - -

Has anyone tried removeing the blueing from the zinc by soaking in vinegar?

That's a great idea Dave. You have to put some pressure down to get those pins to seat and that would be ideal. Not sure of vinegar thing? Are you removing your blue from the steyr ?

Carl

Blade Runner Blaster news: model kit version of the Tomenosuke Blaster is coming

Sr Member

Master Member

Sr Member

Master Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Sr Member

Sr Member

Sr Member

Sr Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Sr Member

Sr Member

Sr Member

Active Member

Well-Known Member

Sr Member

Master Member

Sr Member

Similar threads