ANH Luke and Vader Saber Questions

facemelter

New Member
First off, hey i'm new. Wonderful forum with a wealth of information. I am wanting to build me an ANH Luke and Vader saber(s).

Luke saber - I think I found all the info i need on the Luke. I am going to go with roman's graflex and Roy's Luke ANH kit. However, i see the t-tracks in Roy's kit need to be cut to get the proper 30 degree angle. Does anyone have a good way of doing this to get nice straight even cuts? Other than that i think i am good on the Luke.

Vader saber - I see roman is doing an MPP run. Besides the MPP what else do i need to convert the Vader? I know i need the same t-tracks as Luke and the extracta bubble strip. What about d-ring? Anything else? Are their any good tutorials for the Vader? I'd like to get proper grip placement... Is there a preferred kit like Roy's ANH Luke?

Thanks for any help you guys can provide.
 
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To cut the angle on the t track, I'll use a sanding drum on a dremel to rough out the shape, then a hand file to tidy it up. I use a 30 60 90 drafting triangle and a silver sharpie to mark the cuts.

For Vader ANH, all you need to add is the t track and bubble strip. The d ring is already attached to the shroud of most replicas; I don't see why Roman wouldn't follow the same pattern. Optionally, Sloth Furnace has just released a replica of the PCB that can be seen underneath the bubble strip on the ESB/ROTJ hero. It's not conclusively known as to whether or not the PCB was intact on the ANH version (scant reference material) but it is an option if you're into taking creative license.

Hope that helps!

Mance

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kevin926 , kevin just did this. See if he can give you some pointers


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Here you go. I used a miter box
Everyone has their own way but this worked well for me, giving a complete uniform finish

These are the original cuts I made with the wrong degree. I didn't take pictures of my new cuts however , this will do.
 
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For Vader ANH, all you need to add is the t track and bubble strip. The d ring is already attached to the shroud of most replicas; I don't see why Roman wouldn't follow the same pattern.

I would double check with Roman on this. The D ring is not part of the MPP flash and its not listed as being included on his site.
 
Hi facemelter,

And welcome aboard :) Vader's D-ring is thinner than the regular D used for Luke ANH due to the width of the shroud through which it goes ... any vintage sportsbag D-ring about 2 mm thick and about 25 - 30 mm wide is sufficient ... see the original on the remaining saber after filming ROTJ :



Chaïm
 
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Here you go. I used a miter box
Everyone has their own way but this worked well for me, giving a complete uniform finish

These are the original cuts I made with the wrong degree. I didn't take pictures of my new cuts however , this will do.

This looks like a great idea. However, would this not put the whole T at the 60 degree angle? Does that make sense? It's hard to explain.... The base _ of the T is supposed to be cut straight and then the I part of the T is supposed to have the 60 degree from the base _
Wouldn't the miter box cut the I and _ at a 60 degree angle? Again, it's hard to explain without pics...
 
No, I understand without pics. You are correct about keeping the bottom straight. It's hard to see in the first pic, but the bottom is not being cut. Only the vertical part. This was accomplished by pulling the horizontal bottom back and away from the saw.I mark the degree and keep the bottom straight.

Again, these pics were from my first attempt and the degree was cut wrong. I didn't take follow shots

You can see in the 3rd pic that the bottom remains straight
Hope this helps.

Also, this is a hobby miter box bought from hobby lobby or Michaels
 
kevin926,

Why is the degree photo cut wrong? It's placed at 60 which would leave 30. It looks like the correct angle to me. What am I missing?

Thanks for all the help.
 
It's a different angle. that cut would leave the track looking tall instead of beveled. We're measuring from the base of the T track not the upright end
 
Oh, OK. So the 60 degree angle is measured from the bottom of the base/ horizonal piece not the bottom of the vertical piece where it meets the horizontal base.

Were you still able to use the miter box or did you end up fee handing the degree cuts? If you did, what degree setting did you use?
 
Oh, OK. So the 60 degree angle is measured from the bottom of the base/ horizonal piece not the bottom of the vertical piece where it meets the horizontal base.

Were you still able to use the miter box or did you end up fee handing the degree cuts? If you did, what degree setting did you use?

No free hand. That would defeat the purpose of the miter box. Once I had my mark, in the box it went
 
No free hand. That would defeat the purpose of the miter box. Once I had my mark, in the box it went

ok, i'm officially confused now... :cool

The above pic shows you making a cut at 60 degrees and then this thread http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=271297 shows you making a cut at 30 degrees. In both instances you said you are making the wrong angle cut. I understand the 30 degree is wrong in the other thread and i guess we've established the one above is wrong because you cut it at 60 degrees from the wrong baseline.

So i need to measure 60 degrees from the bottom of the horizontal base. I can then still use the miter box to get the proper cut that i need even though i won't be cutting the entire piece and will only be cutting the vertical?

Sorry if i'm making this harder than it needs to be but i'm not following 100% here.
 
Now why hasn't anyone made a video yet?! Hmmm wonder if I have a spare grip to sacrifice


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ok, i'm officially confused now... :cool

The above pic shows you making a cut at 60 degrees and then this thread http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=271297 shows you making a cut at 30 degrees. In both instances you said you are making the wrong angle cut. I understand the 30 degree is wrong in the other thread and i guess we've established the one above is wrong because you cut it at 60 degrees from the wrong baseline.

So i need to measure 60 degrees from the bottom of the horizontal base. I can then still use the miter box to get the proper cut that i need even though i won't be cutting the entire piece and will only be cutting the vertical?

Sorry if i'm making this harder than it needs to be but i'm not following 100% here.
correct, only cut the top vertical.
The pics will throw you off if you are looking at degrees. I just used the pics as a reference for the miter box and how I cut them. The cuts will need to be 30 degrees. The horizontalbottom remains straight.
 
A video would be fantastic. I'm very much a visual aid person.

I'm sure I am annoying Kevin at this point.... 
Lol :), no, it's all good. I made the degree boo boo so just be careful not to repeat my mistake. The miter box will give you the best, most uniform cuts you can get.
 
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