Tom's ANH Stunt Graflex

Anyone else know the connect name of the disconnect wires hanging out of it?

I searched

"Vintage 28 gauge disconnect"
"Quick disconnect"
"Hobby quick disconnect"
"1 pin disconnect"

I also searched the same site as the button with no luck...

On screen it almost looks like male and female microphone wire connectors. But I don't know if those connectors can handle 12v/24v's

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Hi guys. I just happened to stumble on this thread and this particular post. They look very much like audio microphone connectors...which are standard type of connections.

The real term is an "XLR" connector...both male and female. If you search that you'll probably get too many hits to count.

They are 3 pin connectors although of course you need not use all three as long as you keep the wiring straight.

They are capable of 12 or 24 volts. Some (typically better) microphones get power from the source mixer or powerbox at the other end of that cable, and run as high as 48volts. That's referred to as "phantom" power...so you can also google "phantom power supply" to see ready made power supplies that will provide voltage in the xlr cable format. It's not much of a leap from there to deliver that power to a motor as long as you keep the pins right!

I hope this helps you out and continued good luck on a cool build!

Mike
 
Hi guys. I just happened to stumble on this thread and this particular post. They look very much like audio microphone connectors...which are standard type of connections.

The real term is an "XLR" connector...both male and female. If you search that you'll probably get too many hits to count.

They are 3 pin connectors although of course you need not use all three as long as you keep the wiring straight.

They are capable of 12 or 24 volts. Some (typically better) microphones get power from the source mixer or powerbox at the other end of that cable, and run as high as 48volts. That's referred to as "phantom" power...so you can also google "phantom power supply" to see ready made power supplies that will provide voltage in the xlr cable format. It's not much of a leap from there to deliver that power to a motor as long as you keep the pins right!

I hope this helps you out and continued good luck on a cool build!

Mike

mike you rock!!

- - - Updated - - -

mike i just did a quick google search, first thing that came up is guitar connectors, this makes perfect sense!
 
It's a good suggestion (and I don't want to be a wet blanket) but, having worked with XLR connectors myself, in my opinion I think they're too large and definitely too heavy for what they may have used here. That said, looking at audio gear definitely opens up some possibilities.

Cheers,

Dave
 
I noticed you could see the second hole for the wires to exit about 3 inches below the switch hole.
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I also noticed the gap seen in that photo around the switch hole is because the shoulder of the switch is bigger than the switch itself!

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Got one from the UK, same one kurtyboy used (there’s like 2 anyone could find and this one looks more retro) and I took the time to drill two holes in a press. One.. about the width of the space between the grips, and one big enough for the switch to slide through...and small enough for the shoulder to screw on tight.

sculpted the grips with an exacto miter saw and a rotary tool with a sanding drum. the cut-out happens to be the same shape the drum makes when you sink it into the T track

VHB tape and the stovetop took care of the rest

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As for my choice of 7 grips - it would appear the bare ring around the switch hole in the original photo here spreads from one vertical T track ridge to the other. I popped the switch nut into the gaps of both an ESB and ANH saber and the ESB grips are way too far apart! my switch sits between the two vertical ridges comfortably, albeit not quite centered :)
 

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Loving this thread. I will be keeping a close eye on it because I'll be building one as well but with lights and sound.
 
Tom I didn't see the up date with the button!! Wicked nice man!!


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Tom I didn't see the up date with the button!! Wicked nice man!!


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thank you! It's super satisfying to click the switch while holding it. the switch and wire hole are right in line with your wrist/arm when holding it.
 
wish I could pause that gif, its amazing!!

Hey thd9791 ! You should be able to deconstruct it if you have Photoshop. It's been a while since I did it last, but I know you can.

All a gif is is a bunch of images, just like a film strip, and you should be able to see every image as a separate layer in Photoshop.

Just pick the ones you want to see, and you'll have effectively "PAUSED" it. ;)
 
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No luck! :( I also haven't decided how to attach the glass eye

I'm going to lathe up a small piece of aluminum stock, drill and tap the center then center punch the tub and drill and tap the tube

I'm also working on the same kind of machined piece for the red button. But I want to keep the red button functional so when I press it it moves
 
that's a very good idea! I'm not 100% sure the glass eye and bearing/socket will fit in the same place. If it's a rather thin needle bearing I bet it could work
 
I swung by a metal store to go through their scrap bins and small parts and found a thicker 1 1/2” aluminum tube that looked perfect for this saber!

i was never happy with how light the original was - so I decided to copy the ANH pictures that Scott posted when I cut a new piece. This involved two cuts at different angles and a blunted tip. A ******* file helped me really shape it to those weird angles, which probably came because they were rushed on set.

i ripped the grips off my old saber (and spent hours peeling the old VHB tape off and used the rest of the roll to reinstall them on this tube! The clamp is upside down like the original, and I found extra gaffer tape from mugutu. I had more than I need for the V2... so why not cover the clamp like they did?

i plan on drilling and tapping this saber for the graflex buttons.. this pipe is thick enough to get some threads in there. ..... 5 hardware stores failed to deliver a 5/8 24 tap or the matching drill bit ( can’t remember off the top of my head) so I decided to just drill out the holes for the push button and wires and order a tap and bit from China.
 

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Thanks! I kinda realized... do I put an insert and some allen screws or tap the button and eye in there?
 
U know me.. I like it really secure, I would screw them in some how


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i forgot to mention I got the correct drill bit a few days ago! it's freaking huge.

the correct tap is on it's way from china... then I can install the red button and glass eye!
 
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