Sith Obi-Wan Concept (was Kylo Ren) WIP (Pic Heavy)

Re: Kylo Ren WIP (Pic Heavy)

The main pieces that go around the neck are all supposed to be positioned along the fold of your fabric, so when cut are double the length they are on paper. Did you do this?

Hi
I printed out the neck seal, at 100% but it seems to short in length around the neck. Only 3/4 long enough.

A4 size for the print or A3 is the only thing obvious that i can think of to fix that.

Any ideas

thanks.
 
Re: Kylo Ren WIP (Pic Heavy)

Ah! So center front is the fold, and you cut the shape out?

Then wrap it from center front around both sides of the neck, and trim off excess at the back?

Thanks for the answer - this is a first for me. Cheers
 
Re: Kylo Ren WIP (Pic Heavy)

Yes and no. In most case there won't be "excess" as the pattern is intended to have room for a velcro closure as you can see. But yes, the center fold is indicated on the patterns.

Ah! So center front is the fold, and you cut the shape out?

Then wrap it from center front around both sides of the neck, and trim off excess at the back?

Thanks for the answer - this is a first for me. Cheers
 
Re: Kylo Ren WIP (Pic Heavy)

Thanks Graphic Jordan! You beat me to it. ;)

So, yeah, basically what Jordan said. I would recommend you build a muslin or cheap cotton mock up of the base pieces first and check the fit of that. The layered pieces are drafted to fit on that base. So, if the base is too big, trim some off the center back, if too small, add some to the center back - adjust the backs of the layers accordingly and, bam, Bob's your uncle.

Cheers!
 
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Re: Kylo Ren WIP (Pic Heavy)

SMP Designs sent me this lovely pic on Friday, I cannot wait to try it on, I'll be doing a test fitting next week. :) Once we establish the fit of this, make alterations, etc, he can then pattern our and size the outer tunic, etc. :) Thanks again Sean, you do brilliant work!

Click for a bigger pic.

12895255_10209315530588133_1119483772_n.jpg
 
Re: Kylo Ren WIP (Pic Heavy)


Hi all - update time!

The back sections of the skirt were made using the same method as the front and the entire skirt was assembled before being attached to the body. The main thing to note on the skirt is the treatment of the side seams - they are double-bound. Here's how to create these seams:

First, the side edges of the skirt pieces are basted at 1/2" from the cut edge (basically at the seam allowance). Then, the bias trim is laid against that basting line and stitched down in the fold.

kr-tunic-18.jpg


The edge of the fabric is then trimmed even with the edge of the bias trim and the bias is pressed toward the edge.

kr-tunic-19.jpg


So, what we've essentially created here, is a new seam allowance out of the bias trim and cut the skirt fabric away to get rid of the bulk. Next, the sides are laid together and, making sure the edges are all lined up and using a zipper foot, the side seam is stitched down the center of the bias (which also should be right up against the edge of the skirt fabric.

kr-tunic-20.jpg


The skirt is then laid flat and the bias trim is pressed down to create the double binding and stitched down to finish the seam.

kr-tunic-21.jpg
kr-tunic-22.jpg


Once the skirt was finished, it was hemmed and attached to the body of the tunic. The tunic was then completed with bindings on the front edges and the zipper.

kr-tunic-23.jpg
kr-tunic-24.jpg


The tunic and neck seal were then sent off for a fitting. Everything is good so far. The only thing that needs adjustment at this point is the fit of the sleeves - they need to be tightened slightly.


jordan-tunic-front.jpg
jordan-tunic-side.jpg
jordan-tunic-back.jpg


The next steps will be creating the outer and mid-robes based on the tunic pattern. Once these pieces are returned, the sleeves will be altered.Stay tuned!
 
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Re: Kylo Ren WIP (Pic Heavy)

The main pieces that go around the neck are all supposed to be positioned along the fold of your fabric, so when cut are double the length they are on paper. Did you do this?
Graphic Jordan ,sorry it's my first time dealing with the fabric side of things and still not entirely sure what you mean, i had the same question, i understand how they all go together, i have printed and cut the card templates, i understand what you mean by positioning them along the fold and from what the OP mentioned placing the edge "center front" along the fold; but in the images it shows one slit in the center of his fabric whereas if i do it this way with my template i will have 2 slits right? or am i missing something? also what are the slits for? I've seen it for helping the fabric curve around things?

thanks!
 
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Re: Kylo Ren WIP (Pic Heavy)

Wow this is coming out really nicely! Cannot wait to see more progress and how it all ties together. Are you going to try and make the helmet as well or just purchase that piece?
 
Re: Kylo Ren WIP (Pic Heavy)

I had a question!
Your work is wonderful, and as a very, VERY, inexperienced costume maker (literally just bought a sewing machine and used it for the first time on test fabric) I was looking at your edging, or I'm sure there's a fancy word for it.
They all look ridiculously crisp and clean, something I have not tried to do myself yet, and I'm wondering how you do it. Is it an additional piece of fabric that you are sewing onto the edges like a hem? Is it something you can buy that comes like that shape or did you cut it to size? I see you used it on both the tunic and on the neck guard and I'll be beginning my own Kylo build soon once I build up the courage, I'm just trying to learn how before I start! So what's the trick to making your pieces look as good as yours? Other than the obvious experience, skill and time spent on them!
kr-tunic-15.jpg
 
Re: Kylo Ren WIP (Pic Heavy)

I had a question!
Your work is wonderful, and as a very, VERY, inexperienced costume maker (literally just bought a sewing machine and used it for the first time on test fabric) I was looking at your edging, or I'm sure there's a fancy word for it.
They all look ridiculously crisp and clean, something I have not tried to do myself yet, and I'm wondering how you do it. Is it an additional piece of fabric that you are sewing onto the edges like a hem? Is it something you can buy that comes like that shape or did you cut it to size? I see you used it on both the tunic and on the neck guard and I'll be beginning my own Kylo build soon once I build up the courage, I'm just trying to learn how before I start! So what's the trick to making your pieces look as good as yours? Other than the obvious experience, skill and time spent on them!
View attachment 624602

Thanks! The edges are all bound. For the neck seal, each layer is bound by a strip of a thinner faux leather and the fabric pieces are bound with cotton twill. Here's a good tutorial that covers binding: https://youtu.be/ENzPlU6CKRs

On the neck segments, I did not turn the edging material under a again on the back side. Since the faux leather does not fray, I just stitched it o the right side as normal and then turned it to the back and stitched it down and trimmed off the excess. This saves both trouble and bulk on the inside.

Cheers and hope that helps!
 
Re: Kylo Ren WIP (Pic Heavy)

. Here's a good tutorial that covers binding: https://youtu.be/ENzPlU6CKRs

That did help a lot, thanks! Hopefully I can try this out without butchering anything, or myself!
I did make a start on my costume so I'll have to get a thread up when I have something of tangible interest but until then, thanks for having such an informative thread. It's invaluable for such a beginner as myself.
 
Re: Kylo Ren WIP (Pic Heavy)

That did help a lot, thanks! Hopefully I can try this out without butchering anything, or myself!
I did make a start on my costume so I'll have to get a thread up when I have something of tangible interest but until then, thanks for having such an informative thread. It's invaluable for such a beginner as myself.

Awesome! Glad I could help. Definitely post your build, I'd love to see it. Cheers!
 
Re: Kylo Ren WIP (Pic Heavy)

THANK YOU! that is the best tutorial I've seen so far. Good work

Thanks! I'm glad it's helpful. The project will resume soon. My client has been swamped with his own projects, moving and family, so we're still on the fitting stage of the tunic. ;)

What material did you use for this? I'm having trouble finding the right stuff...

For the base of the tunic I used a medium weight twill (soft denim) and the pleated shell is a heavy linen (about 5-6 oz). I also wash all of my fabrics once or twice to get the sizing out, pre-shrink them, full them if they are so inclined and give them a little bit of worn-in-wrinkle.
 
Re: Kylo Ren WIP (Pic Heavy)

Hey, I finally finished my neck gorget.. It turned out great! Your duct tape pattern idea was invaluable. I even got mine to seal high enough to be able to go without a balaclava... Now onto the pleated tunic... I have a few questions about 501st interpretation. If I pipe the side seams, how do I sew them together? Are there shoulder seams and are they piped? is there a back seam and is it piped? Thanks for the help.
  • All edges of the under tunic are piped with the exception of the bottom edge.
    • The side seams of the under tunic are also piped.
  • The under tunic is constructed with one split at the front starting at the belt and has a piped seam line on the left and right sides and piping on the edges of the lower panels and arm holes.
 
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