The PEPAKURA question thread - PLEASE READ RULES IN FIRST POST!

Hi guys and gals, I wanted to start a new thread for this question, but didn't just in case I'd get stones thrown at me haha. Basically I want to make a fallout 4 laser pistol (http://vignette2.wikia.nocookie.net..._pistol.png/revision/latest?cb=20151231025402) and 3d printing being way too expensive, I found out people have been making pepakura models for quite a while. I even found bloody impressive laser rifles made with pepakura, so I thought why not have a crack at it!

So I've done my research, I am very comfortable with dealing with 3d models, so I'll edit the game model a bit so it's friendlier with the paper software. I've never done any resin/fiberglass work though, but after finding some tutorials I think it's doable. I DO HAVE ONE UNANSWERED QUESTION THOUGH: if you look at the image, the pistol has a few smaller bits and bobs on it. Do I attach everything BEFORE hardening/sanding etc., or AFTER, as in have all the bits seperate, resin/sand them up and then hot glue them together?

The tutorials I've looked at so far mainly speak about bulky props that don't have as many details, so I'm a bit nervous to start this without knowing I have a chance to complete it. I officially have around 2 months to start/finish this, I think that's quite a bit of time for a starter project, I just don't want to use most of that time googling, so might as well get all the Qs out the way.
 
P.S. Speaking of the small prop details, how would one put fiberglass inside those parts to strengthen them? I heard of the slushing technique with bigger parts like the grip/barrel, what about everything else though?
 
Slushing works, you can also just apply a couple of coats to the exterior of a closed object and then cut it in half and reinforce the insides. Slushing saves you the trouble of having to re-join those two halves, which can become a weak point. As for the small details, it's easiest to add those after the main piece has been resined, bondo'd and smoothed. Most small details are easier to make out of other materials anyways, so they can just be finished separately and then glued on.
 
Slushing works, you can also just apply a couple of coats to the exterior of a closed object and then cut it in half and reinforce the insides. Slushing saves you the trouble of having to re-join those two halves, which can become a weak point. As for the small details, it's easiest to add those after the main piece has been resined, bondo'd and smoothed. Most small details are easier to make out of other materials anyways, so they can just be finished separately and then glued on.

Ah I want to avoid the cutting in half, so I think it's easier to just leave an open gap somewhere and close it later. So how should I do the small bits if I want to avoid using any other materials, as in I want to make all the bits and pieces out of paper? Shall I give the small bits a very thin coat of resin on the outside and just hope they don't collapse, will something like 200gsm card withstand it? Or do I not coat them at all? There must be a way somehow :)
 
It's all how patient you are. At a certain point, the smaller you go the more you sacrifice detail. As for not coating in resin, any paper not coated in resin will start to deteriorate the moment it gets wet nevermind be structurally weaker. Point is, everything paper should be resin coated at least once.
 
Anyone know where to get Macross helmet pep file?

Macross.jpg

http://www.mech9.com/2009/04/replica-macross-helmets-11-scale-from.html
 
Hey guys, I'm about to paint my pep piece. How do I achieve a paint job similiar to this?

6RC4LRy.jpg

There's a lot of weathering in the suit . The builds that I've seen start off with primer, a couple layers of spray paint then finished off with automotive clear coat/varnish. At which point should I add the burns and scratches? Before or after the clear coat?

Thanks in advance :D
 
Domonator buddy you may want to check this link out. The CW cowl is kinda accurate aside from the lightning groove in the forehead which appears to be misplaced. I think it can be fixed, though. Best of luck!
 
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if you do multiple coats of paint, example : a primer, black, silver/metalic grey and then your final color (red) clear coat, then ruf it up and you can actualy scratch it a little so you see the grey under it or even the black.

i advise to do multiple clear coats, one after the final color, one after a black rub and one after heavyer weathering (if you go so far)

Hey guys, I'm about to paint my pep piece. How do I achieve a paint job similiar to this?

View attachment 614000

There's a lot of weathering in the suit . The builds that I've seen start off with primer, a couple layers of spray paint then finished off with automotive clear coat/varnish. At which point should I add the burns and scratches? Before or after the clear coat?

Thanks in advance :D
 
if you do multiple coats of paint, example : a primer, black, silver/metalic grey and then your final color (red) clear coat, then ruf it up and you can actualy scratch it a little so you see the grey under it or even the black.

i advise to do multiple clear coats, one after the final color, one after a black rub and one after heavyer weathering (if you go so far)

Will I get a similar effect by using a masking liquid? And maybe wash it with water-diluted black acrylic after?

Also, do I have to have a black and silver basecoat before I put on the actual color? I just noticed that most people around here go for that when they're going for a glossy paintjob.

Thanks for the insight btw ! I'm new at this so all help is appreciated :thumbsup
 
Will I get a similar effect by using a masking liquid? And maybe wash it with water-diluted black acrylic after?

Also, do I have to have a black and silver basecoat before I put on the actual color? I just noticed that most people around here go for that when they're going for a glossy paintjob.

Thanks for the insight btw ! I'm new at this so all help is appreciated :thumbsup

no idea about the masking liquid, you will get a different effect depending on the basecoat color. most people do multiple base coats to achieve a "real" metal looking effect after weathering. its a lot more work but it is worth it. also when you wear it and you get some scratches then you don't get that sparkling white immediately wich gives a "fake" look
 
I've been working on a Star Lord mask for a little while now. I'm kind of experimenting a little with materials and technique. I'm hoping you guys can help me out.
I've got two questions and a (potential)discovery.

I sort of hit a middle ground between foam and paper. I used some of those very thin foam sheets you get in craft shops. I used superglue to join it and most of the mask is two layers thick.
For strength i've given it 3 coats (inside and out) with fibreglass resin. this has stiffened it up nicely.

Q1. there's still a small amount of flex in the mask. If i put bondo on the surface will i have problems with it crumbling off?
Q2. has anybody experimented with mixing regular polyfiller with resin? I'm just curious and have a lot of it on hand.

Discovery: dried out Baby wipes are an excellent alternative to regular fibreglass cloth. they absorb a lot of resin and if any of it becomes exposed you're not dealing with glass shards in your skin.
 
Hi,

Just looking for some advice regarding resin vs. epoxy vs. smoothcast vs. something else for strengthening pepakura.

I just finished building a mask I purchased from Wintercroft.com, and constructed it out of pretty thick cardstock (photo below) using a hot glue gun. Obviously it's supposed to be polygonal and doesn't have any surface detail or curves, so I'm not planning on using bondo or anything like that on the surface.

What I'd like to do is strengthen it, paint it, then add lenses for the eyes and some strapping / foam inside to make it comfortable and sturdy to wear.

I've done a lot of reading here and elsewhere about using resin/epoxy on paper, but most of the tutorials assume you'll go on to using fiberglass on the inside and/or bondo or rondo on the outside - which I'm hoping I won't need to do.

So the question is: what should I used to harden my mask? Resin? Epoxy? Smooth-cast 320? EpoxAmite? This is where I'm confused...

Since it's only one piece, cost isn't much of an issue. I'd prefer something less toxic since I'll be wearing this thing on my head.

Thanks for the suggestions and knowledge.

S.

2016-02-09 - Copy.jpg
 
Hi,

Just looking for some advice regarding resin vs. epoxy vs. smoothcast vs. something else for strengthening pepakura.

I just finished building a mask I purchased from Wintercroft.com, and constructed it out of pretty thick cardstock (photo below) using a hot glue gun. Obviously it's supposed to be polygonal and doesn't have any surface detail or curves, so I'm not planning on using bondo or anything like that on the surface.

What I'd like to do is strengthen it, paint it, then add lenses for the eyes and some strapping / foam inside to make it comfortable and sturdy to wear.

I've done a lot of reading here and elsewhere about using resin/epoxy on paper, but most of the tutorials assume you'll go on to using fiberglass on the inside and/or bondo or rondo on the outside - which I'm hoping I won't need to do.

So the question is: what should I used to harden my mask? Resin? Epoxy? Smooth-cast 320? EpoxAmite? This is where I'm confused...

Since it's only one piece, cost isn't much of an issue. I'd prefer something less toxic since I'll be wearing this thing on my head.

Thanks for the suggestions and knowledge.

S.

View attachment 624154

I would just get a sample pack of smoothcast 300 for hardening. This is easier to work with than fiberglass, has less fumes, and tends to smell a LOT less than fiberglass (fiberglass keeps putting odors off as it cures and degasses, which can take quite a while sometimes. a couple of coats on the inside and outside will make your base pretty rigid (it won't crush that easily). If you decide you need more strength you can always add some fiberglass mesh or mat brushed into the inside with the smoothcast.
 
Does anyone know how to delete a part in Pepakura designer? Real dumb question I know but I know I was able to do it once but now I can't seem to do it.

What I usually do is to drag it to the left or upwards so that it stays off the card area. If you drag it right or down it just creates a new card.
 
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