Luke ROTJ Hero Lightsaber with partially scratch made controlbox

Thanks, but I just don't have the skill to cut such accurate intricate parts by hand!

I found my triangular LEDs. Typically I've managed to lose both green ones so only have two red ones. But they are 5mm and not 4mm.

Hi thanks for your suggestions gentlemen.

@Kurtyboy well I have plenty of copper foil left if you like to have the MoM version and also some brass L shape enough for one more controlbox and a brass activator board to make the screen-used version :D

-Chaim
 
Thanks, but I just don't have the skill to cut such accurate intricate parts by hand!

I found my triangular LEDs. Typically I've managed to lose both green ones so only have two red ones. But they are 5mm and not 4mm.

Thanks Kurtyboy,

I never thought I could do it either. But since I did not really use metal parts but black ABS plastic and a purchased brass piece already L-shaped from the modeltrain shop and together with a trial and error approach with lots of spare time on my hands and tiny delicate fingers I managed to get close enough to the MoM version as pictured in The Star Wars Archives Book.

If however you are looking for the screen-accurate version as seen here :

LukeROTJSA01.JPG

(Courtesy Lonepigeon for the HD screencaps)

it would be a no brainer for me since all I need to do is cut the brass L-shapes into 2 x 5.0cm pieces.
Add the same size black ABS plastic onto the brass activator board for thickness and then all you need
to do is glue the L-shapes onto your controlbox with the activator board slided inbetween.
Voilà one screen-accurate controlbox. Or you only need to send me your unfinished controlbox not the
whole saber I'd reckon. Do we have an accord? :lol (I just watched Pirates 3 the other night)

So 5mm for the ◄ ► LEDS would look just a tiny bit too big on my controlbox in my opinion, I'm afraid.

-Chaim
 
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I'm fairly sure that from the back to the point should measure 4mm.

Thanks very much TridCloudwalker, ... so indeed my ◄ ► are the correct size :)
and probably the same as the 4.5 mm which Pastor Jedi has for sale for those of
you guys who need them badly, however . . . those are not quite accurate color-
wise compared to the MoM version :

Controlbox20.JPG

(My ◄ ►)

LukeROTJHero14A.JPG

(MoM ◄ ►)


And even with a professional photographer's eye like mine,
you can clearly see that my controlbox isn't MoM accurate
either after all that work o_O ... however close enough ;)

-Chaim
 
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Well, if you're thinking of starting from scratch you can always sell the current one... to me ;)

Thanks very much TridCloudwalker, ... so indeed my ◄ ► are the correct size :)
and probably the same as the 4.5 mm which Pastor Jedi has for sale for those of
you guys who need them badly, however . . . those are not quite accurate color-
wise compared to the MoM version :


(My ◄ ►)


(MoM ◄ ►)


And even with a professional photographer's eye like mine,
you can clearly see that my controlbox isn't MoM accurate
either after all that work :cry ... however close enough :lol

-Chaim
 
Ha,ha Kurtyboy,

However today I did start over again with those small black side boxes!
I wasn't quite satisfied with their size (6.0 mm tall in stead of 5.0 mm).
It was because of the shadow created by the camera flash on the MoM,
which confused me into believing them to be larger ... WRONG!
So I altered the spare MR boxes from the back, to recreate that wonkey
appearance, then gently loosened the previous ones, taking them down
and having the MR side boxes glued in their rightful place :lol

-Chaim

P.S. Sorry guys no pictures yet, but the MR sideboxes were the same ones
which I used first, minus the alteration for the wonkiness. (See post#1 all
the pictures of the previous first attempt.)
 
I haven't finished my control box yet unfortunately. I did however install some triangular LEDs into one for a client. And the LEDs I used were custom made. I have no idea where he got them.
But here is my saber without the control box...at least, this is how it used to look, as I stripped all the paint a while ago because I was unhappy with it:
100_2480-1.jpg

saber-1.jpg


and here's a partially finished box. Still a LOT of work yet to do on it:
100_1604-1.jpg

Cooooooool lightsaber :) thanks for sharing.
 
Are the "guts" of the MOM control box documented somewhere?

This pic is from POSW but it doesn't say that this is in fact the MOM saber.
saberInt.jpg
 
Hi there,

In fact here's the full frame picture of that same close-up :

LukeROTJMOM03.JPG

(Picture Courtesy Smithsonian Magazine and Lucasfilm Ltd.)

With the Graflex ROTJ Vader Stunt in the background.

-Chaim
 
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Hi there,

if you read this thread carefully you'll notice that kurtyboy requested to upgrade his controlbox for him.

Well a couple of weeks ago he decided to send me his controlbox and as of today I can show you how it
turned into a MoM version.

Here are the results in pictures of course :

ControlboxROTJ_MoM-01_zps3079afdd.JPG


Controlbox_ROTJ-02_zpsf00a0559.JPG


Controlbox_ROTJ-03_zps9924ac84.JPG


Controlbox_ROTJ-04_zps870199aa.JPG


Controlbox_ROTJ-05_zpscb33bb9e.JPG


Controlbox_ROTJ-06_zpsbfa86807.JPG


Controlbox_ROTJ-09_zpsa4d005c3.JPG


© Chaim Murzan Photography 2013

His controlbox sits on my ROTJ MoM lightsaber, since I still haven't attached my own controlbox permanently due to the Tri-ring vs. Emitter issue which has not been resolved yet ... unfortunately.


-Chaim
 
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Two ways to fix the position of the tri-ring are, you can sand down the bottom of the saber and top of the pommel until they screw together at the right degree. Or, you can ditch the set screw that holds it together and use a wood or nylon 3/8 pin and some 2 part epoxy.

Sorry your pommel doesn't line up with the emitter hole. This was a design flaw that I couldn't get my shop to get right.

-best
Dan
 
Hi Dan,

Thanks ... however . . . I might just leave it as is ... since now I can wear the lightsaber on a belthook and have the controlbox pointing outwards which is not quite uncomfortable on my hip, therefore I dare to conclude that the controlbox, on this MoM ROTJ hero version, which used to be a ROTJ Hero before the transformation into the Magic of Myth version, may have been altered post-production??? See the position of the D-ring on the V2 in regards to the graflex controlbox. But this is just mere speculation on my behalf though . . . feel free to prove me wrong guys.

-Chaim
 
Technically the MoM configuration of this saber was used in production. The deleted scene of Luke building it in the cave seems to match, with grey bars on the control box and even flashing LED arrows. When reviewing the scene it looks like Mark Hamill uses some sort of compass or measuring device to switch from red flashing arrow to green flashing arrow.

IIRC the leftover Kenobi sabers used for Stunt/V2 had a rotating pommel. Though this tells us nothing of the Hero version, and I'm not sure if we get a look at the D ring position in the deleted scene.

Cool to see the control box finished off like that and the neck weathering really gives you the feeling of the original prop. Nice work.
 
Sorry it's taken so long for me to see this update, Chaim but as you know I've been a bit preoccupied recently. I'm really pleased with how the control box turned out, so pleased that the rest of the saber just sucks in comparison and will probably need upgrading when I'm better funded!
 
Hi Dan,

Thanks ... however . . . I might just leave it as is ... since now I can wear the lightsaber on a belthook and have the controlbox pointing outwards which is not quite uncomfortable on my hip, therefore I dare to conclude that the controlbox, on this MoM ROTJ hero version, which used to be a ROTJ Hero before the transformation into the Magic of Myth version, may have been altered post-production??? See the position of the D-ring on the V2 in regards to the graflex controlbox. But this is just mere speculation on my behalf though . . . feel free to prove me wrong guys.

-Chaim

Yeah, its weird that they made the prop in a way that it cannot be worn by MH
 
Great work Sym-Cha. I like your brillant work on your activation box. The result is pretty accurate !!!

I have one question for you: How did you do to fix your black abs strips on the edges of the activation box. It seems that there is only 1-2 mm of contact. Did you glue it? Is it secure enough? :confused
 
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