Official V3 Nike MAG Replica Thread - V3 Discussion Thread

Do they actually make these in half sizes or just calling then that by changing the tag on the box?

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Good question. They list half sizes on the website. There is some room in the shoe, so I think with some softening up of the shoe it'll be OK. They fit pretty decent as is. I'm hoping in time they're even better.
 
about half sizes - yes, there is a difference in sizing and I don't beleive it's as much as a full size. My first pair, I got size 10. Then the next pair I got 9.5's (because in some shoes I'm 9.5) and they were tighter (too tight to install the special insoles I've mentioned on here before over the top of the grey ones the shoes come with - had to take out the grey ones)
Then when the version with the updated lights came out (3.1's) I wanted them, and ordered a 10.5. Maybe they didn't have 10 at the time? I can't remember. But they also fit well after the addition of the Footcare Ultra Sport insoles. They are just a little bigger than the 10's though. So it seems the half sizing is right. The sticker/label on the inside of the shoe also shows the size as numbered.
Here's a photo of me wearing my 9.5's - note how the elastic laces seem a little stretched. They're not uncomfortable to wear, as a size 9 would be. I think Mark Poon's original shoe was supposed to be size 9, maybe a bit under? And while I could just get my feet in, I couldn't ever wear them out anywhere after I bought them (many years ago) as they were just too damn small and he didn't make any other size.
Wearing V3 US 9.5.JPG

(oh, and in wet weather, a product @cavx found in Brisbane, "ReAlign" works great for water resistance on the cloth uppers so they don't get discolourisation marks. When I clean mine after wearing them out, I scrub the soles with a toenail scrubber and detergent, then rinse off under a tap - the water just beads off if it gets on the uppers. There is probably an equivalent waterproofing spray in sneaker shops in Ohio, I'd expect.)
 
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Good question. They list half sizes on the website.

Listing it is one thing. Given the real shoes never came in half sizes, I do have to question if these really are in half sizes or do they just round it.

Moving on to my clear soles and I had a productive afternoon.

What I am doing in the first 2 images is to make a set of clear soles with white inserts.

The silicone I use is normally 6 hour cure time but they also have a fast kick additive that allows demolding in just 15min.

So after greasing up the glow kit mold, I mixed a quick set batch and degassed it in the mold. 20min later, I had a silicone version of the glow part that I have laid into the mold. Another way to do this and probably a better way will be to make the glow parts first and glue them into the sole first, then back fill with white.

Will know tomorrow if this worked or not.
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White behind the glow-in-the-dark piece might make it appear lighter when not glowing, but don't make it too thick, once you remove the EL panel, there isn't a huge amount of room to work with there, unlike the V2's. I wonder what it would look like if you could glue a reflective backing onto the back side side of the glow-in-the-dark pieces? Like that silver 'contact' or something. When I installed the glow-in-the-dark set, I glued in the panels to the grey midsole first, then glued the clear over the top. There's some 'frosting' because of that process. It would probably look 'cleaner' if the glow panel were glued to the clear side panel under weight first, but then there would be the problem of making sure it lines up with the hole in the sole, and also making sure the clear sole lined up with the grey midsole's recessed edges. Might be annoying, but I guess you never know till you try.....
 
White behind the glow-in-the-dark piece might make it appear lighter when not glowing, but don't make it too thick, once you remove the EL panel, there isn't a huge amount of room to work with there, unlike the V2's. I wonder what it would look like if you could glue a reflective backing onto the back side side of the glow-in-the-dark pieces? Like that silver 'contact' or something. When I installed the glow-in-the-dark set, I glued in the panels to the grey midsole first, then glued the clear over the top. There's some 'frosting' because of that process. It would probably look 'cleaner' if the glow panel were glued to the clear side panel under weight first, but then there would be the problem of making sure it lines up with the hole in the sole, and also making sure the clear sole lined up with the grey midsole's recessed edges. Might be annoying, but I guess you never know till you try.....

The sticky side of the 3M tape is silver and sticky. I also have a 3M double sided tape that is ultra thin and clear. I used this on my hover board. This might be a good way to attach 3M reflective behind the glow kit. So much R&D and so little time.

I have pressed the two parts of the molds back together after adding the white to keep it controlled in how thick it can be. My fear is that the white might seep under the silicone buffer. I actually let the white go into gel state before applying it so it was not a runny liquid. The plan is to back fill with Glow and finish in the mold so the glow is fused to the inside of the clear. This should make it even brighter.

Yes, the frosting is due to the fact that the inside of the master part is not 100% smooth, so the silicone just picks up all that "detail" and each cast part ends up imprinted with this detail. When I do open back molds, then I can get a self leveling glass smooth finish. But because these parts are so thin and curved, I can't do self leveling parts. It also makes polishing the inside a bit tricky. I guess if I used epoxy, let it set hard, I might be able to wet and dry it smooth (400 grit) and then make a new silicone insert. I'll look into that at some point.
 
Received my MAGs, when they dropped the price, i couldn't pass it up. This is what i got:

strap1.jpg

strap2.jpg

There was some gunky liquid trapped in the panel which moved around when you pressed on it. I was told to heat it with a hairdryer, which i did. Now it has stopped working altogether. The sole lights are fine. The strap panel was emitting a faint beeping noise, which the other shoe did not do, like it was about to fail anyway. The beeping has gone, now that the panel has failed altogether. I had requested a replacement strap or a $100 partial refund. No response yet. I had planned to buy an extra pair, maybe even a self lacing pair, for display purposes, but i don't think i will bother now. They had sent me the shoes, without sending any QC pics, like they knew all along they were a faulty pair.
 
Received my MAGs, when they dropped the price, i couldn't pass it up. This is what i got:

View attachment 790027

View attachment 790028

There was some gunky liquid trapped in the panel which moved around when you pressed on it. I was told to heat it with a hairdryer, which i did. Now it has stopped working altogether. The sole lights are fine. The strap panel was emitting a faint beeping noise, which the other shoe did not do, like it was about to fail anyway. The beeping has gone, now that the panel has failed altogether. I had requested a replacement strap or a $100 partial refund. No response yet. I had planned to buy an extra pair, maybe even a self lacing pair, for display purposes, but i don't think i will bother now. They had sent me the shoes, without sending any QC pics, like they knew all along they were a faulty pair.
Did you request QC photos in the order comments?

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No, not in the order comments, but in an email just a few hours later. I was told they had already been sent out, which seems unlikely. There is no excuse for a faulty product, regardless. It's just common sense to check the lights before posting out.

QC pics are for cosmetic flaws, such as glue blobs / stains. The lights are what makes these shoes special. It's obvious that they have to be functioning properly.
 
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There was some gunky liquid trapped in the panel which moved around when you pressed on it. I was told to heat it with a hairdryer, which i did. Now it has stopped working altogether. The sole lights are fine. The strap panel was emitting a faint beeping noise, which the other shoe did not do, like it was about to fail anyway. The beeping has gone, now that the panel has failed altogether..

There isn't any liquid in the EL. What has happened is that the several layers that make up the EL have delaminated from each other. When you push on it, it reconnects that portion of the lamination. Heating it up only works if you can press a clothes iron on it...and that only works some of the time. This EL that they use is SUPER crappy and cheaply made. The reason that it doesn't work at all now is that the delamination has effected the flow of the electricity through the panel. The "beeping" or "high pitch" sound is the current shorting out in the EL panel or it might be the inverter trying to power the EL. They would have to send you an entire strap unless they send you just the NIKE EL panel in which you would have to cut the strap open to replace it.
 
No, not in the order comments, but in an email just a few hours later. I was told they had already been sent out, which seems unlikely. There is no excuse for a faulty product, regardless. It's just common sense to check the lights before posting out.

QC pics are for cosmetic flaws, such as glue blobs / stains. The lights are what makes these shoes special. It's obvious that they have to be functioning properly.

How much did you pay? When I bought these shoes, they were reduced from $629 to $499. That is a lot of money on a replica shoe and QCs are "proof of life" that your shoes work and are clean. The QCs are too small to be really used to make super picky judgment. There was a small pen mark on the buckle of my left shoe when it arrived. Only after knowing it was there could I even find it on the QC image.

- - - Updated - - -

They would have to send you an entire strap unless they send you just the NIKE EL panel in which you would have to cut the strap open to replace it.

And what a job delaminating the strap is.
 
I paid $480 after WU discount. How much i paid is irrelevant. I'm not too fussed about minor imperfections, but the lights have to work, pure and simple. Just sending a new EL panel isn't acceptable, as cutting open the strap and replacing it is a fiddly job.
 
Blu Ray Players... not Blue EL lights. :)

Or was it DVD players?
Everything OPPO ever made has been good and raised the bar with each new product release. I like the brand so much, I even have one of their phones. I have had their Blu-ray player for a bit over 3 years and am soon upgrading that to their UHD player.

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Quality can vary considerably between companies. I expect that's the same in China as it is here in Australia - as an example, the old company I worked for had delivery drivers who used to have to use their own car, pay for their own fuel, then claim it back from the company later with the receipt (lost receipt - too bad no money for you)
The new company buys brand new delivery vehicles, owned and maintained by the company, with fuel cards in each one.

Translate that sort of difference in how to run a company to an electronics manufacturing standpoint, and some electronics coming out of china will be much better than others. Maybe if a better manufacturer produced the MAGs they might actually be worth $500 US.
Regardless, I'm just glad someone eventually did. Better something than nothing!
 
On a related topic, here is another pair of Mags i'm working on. From the Hot Toys 2015 Marty figure. I'm using Luke's lightsaber to test how the lighting will look.

mag1.jpg

mag2.jpg

I'll use black paint to help define the outline of the humps.
 

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