DL-44 ESB Blaster Discussion - Greeblies POST 208

Right after you blue, and do a little blending with steel wool, coat that sucker in the Barricade. Hang it up somewhere, put something under it for drippage, and leave it alone for as long as possible. Overnight, at the very least.

Once you cannot wait any longer, take a nice clean cloth and gently massage the whole gun.

Nothing short of hot bluing will keep it from scratching, but the Barricade is much better than nothing at all.

And you can always reapply, whenever.

dann do you use barricade as the last touch? like once you have done all your coats of blue, THEN once your happy with the finish coat it with the barricade? or is barricade something you use in between each coat?
 
No problemo! The can of spray is what I use. They also make wipes.

Anyway, the can will have instructions on it.
 
Got a question about two details and how they relate on the Han Hoth and the Luke Bespin.

Below are of course photos of the Han Hoth, The screw to the grip is on the left side (aka the greeble side) and the slide of the rear site has the ridged knob on the right side (aka scope side) with the flat/skinny half downward. Correct?

Next..

Is the grip screw and the direction of the slide the same on the Luke Bespin?


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MGC base, with boba debts kit. Real M19 as well. 16177820_10212319775976533_8186811377654678395_o.jpg16251791_10212319776376543_901366318944703262_o.jpg16252477_10212319775136512_3514917007365422556_o.jpg16299583_10212319775736527_792418955354803136_o.jpg16300010_10212319775016509_6143560450735580420_o.jpg
 
scottjua

Blaster looks good, tho the grips don't look like they came from a MGC.




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
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Those are replica Broom Handle Grips that I modified to fit the MGC.
Well they certainly look real nice, they're just inherently thicker than MGC grips, so I guess what we're saying is that it makes the blaster look a little "off" as far as accuracy to the original goes.

I've found that Denix's wood grips are closer in thickness to the MGC grips, and that's what I ended up using, as all my MGC grips have the dagummed "9" in them!

Here's mine.
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I think these are older photos actually. I think I've done more work on the flash hider since these were taken.
 
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Here's mine.

I think you have the distance between the scope bracket and the pistol correct, as it's seen in several photos.

Can you describe what you used for the spacer And the accurate-looking flash hider? Both you and scottjua have flash hiders that look very accurate. (pardon if you've explained it elsewhere)
 
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The recently posted fh´s are probably from Davids (BD) last run...in this case the ones WITHOUT any knurling.
The "knurling" is actually just drawn onto the fh, just like I suggested many years ago :D

I agree about the spacer thickness being pretty accurate and would be interested in what was used as well
 
The one I did used BobaDebts kit entirely, but actually Dave fitted the greeblies.The spacer SHOULD be thicker, but it's not too far off.

Dan, what flash hider is that? Looks more correctly proportioned.
 
I think you have the distance between the scope bracket and the pistol correct, as it's seen in several photos.

Can you describe what you used for the spacer And the accurate-looking flash hider? Both you and @scottjua have flash hiders that look very accurate. (pardon if you've explained it elsewhere)
I believe I used nylon standoffs as spacers, for the time being, until I machine a part from delrin that's the correct thickness, and add three holes to that.

The flash hider is one of about four I've machined from delrin on my puny little lathe. Each one is a little different. The flash hiders from Boba Debt's run are more than a little inaccurate, unfortunately. The proportions are off, as is the transition angle from cone to body. And I'm not sure, but the whole thing may be a bit too long. This isn't really David's fault, because we didn't do enough research and discussion about the shape of the flash hider amongst ourselves, before the prints were deemed good enough.

I sold off one of the others recently, when I made a second Hoth gun. Some parts on this one are from earlier runs. The bracket is a bit off, and is an old Blastech, I believe. I wish I had taken more time and worked on putting those curves in the old bracket, I was simply pressed for time. I machined the slightly thicker "Thorens Disc" on this one, from aluminum.

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This blaster was sold recently. The two lower screws on the Thorens Disc go all the way through and are met with M3 nuts on the other side, at either side of the Pistons.

Here's a couple shots of the two blasters together, before they were both completely finished, and before I sold the less accurate one, which is in front in the following photos...

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It had one of "ThinkJedi's"? early brass scopes, which I had to hollow out as best I could with my drill press. Added my own lenses to it, and it turned out really nice, in a couple ways a little nicer than this latest run, but I prefer the scopes from this newest run, and their options! So, thanks to all involved for that!
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Anyway, long story short. Too late. I custom machine all my Hoth style flash hiders. I've had interest in making more, and I'll eventually do that, but not on a large scale.

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I think I have two left. Not the ones pictured above (actually, the two I have left may very well be the ones pictured above. The bottom one being the most accurate, I think). I have one on my personal Hoth gun, and one much smaller one that may actually be the most accurate.
 
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Dann I thought that looked a bit different from David's run.

I plan on using a just a thick piece of aluminum for a spacer, but still need an aluminum flash hider so I can draw the lines on it w/ a Rapidograph.

I've got 4 of ThinkJedi's brass scopes from the first run, about 13 years ago, and they look good next to the four M-19's I have. They were well made using OEM front lens elements David was able to source.
 
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