New alternative for Solo Blaster

BradWright · Feb 3, 2018

Ran into the exact same roadblock as BipeFlyer and ran out of Perma Blue. Though having the clean polished elements is very satisfying to handle.

3D printed Heatsink and T-track for the Reade antennae greebles are still to be painted and attached. Cherry Wood Mauser grips added.

Ash · Feb 3, 2018

Should have mine in my hands by the end of the week. FINALLY. So excited. Now just to find a decent holster rig that won't break the bank.

-Ash

Panaflex · Feb 3, 2018

BradWright said:
Ran into the exact same roadblock as @BipeFlyer and ran out of Perma Blue. Though having the clean polished elements is very satisfying to handle.

3D printed Heatsink and T-track for the Reade antennae greebles are still to be painted and attached. Cherry Wood Mauser grips added.
View attachment 792307

This looks quite nice in this picture. I like the contrast of the silver and black elements. Interesting. I know some here have said they'd like to have an all silver version but if I were to have an alternate, It might be like this.

BipeFlyer · Feb 3, 2018

I'm watching Raiders right now and I noticed that Marion used a Mauser c96. We all have a prop from another Harrison Ford movie.

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squirk · Feb 5, 2018

Just to make sure I know what I am getting into before I buy, the major mods needed for this thing are:

1.) Real wood (walnut) grips;
2.) Strip all powder-black down to base aluminum, and re-do with aluminum black;
3.) New grill;
4.) Piston greebs

Is that it, more or less?

E Williams · Feb 6, 2018

Also remove selector switch, add side cover plate. Shorten the scope knob.

The factory finish isn't bad, though, so you may find that unnecessary (worlds better than a Denix).

For TFA, I don't think it needs the piston greebles. For ANH, it's already the incorrect base model so really the sky's the limit.

BipeFlyer · Feb 6, 2018

E Williams said:
Also remove selector switch, add side cover plate. Shorten the scope knob.

The factory finish isn't bad, though, so you may find that unnecessary (worlds better than a Denix).

For TFA, I don't think it needs the piston greebles. For ANH, it's already the incorrect base model so really the sky's the limit.

I think you're right for the TFA version, which is what I'm making mine. The selector switch is on at least some M712s, which I think is what the TFA version is. I haven't seen any pictures clearly showing the left side of the TFA DL-44, so I left the selector on.

Here's a picture of a M712 with the selector.

Source: https://www.forgottenweapons.com/mauser-schnellfeuer-or-model-712-machine-pistol/

chubsANDdoggers · Feb 6, 2018

BipeFlyer said:
I think you're right for the TFA version, which is what I'm making mine. The selector switch is on at least some M712s, which I think is what the TFA version is. I haven't seen any pictures clearly showing the left side of the TFA DL-44, so I left the selector on.

Here's a picture of a M712 with the selector.
View attachment 793193
Source: https://www.forgottenweapons.com/mauser-schnellfeuer-or-model-712-machine-pistol/

You can see the left side very clearly here..

I’ve seen this idea used many times before and so this is what I designed for my HFC m712 airsoft. Not sure how it measures up with this airsoft but I can share if needed.

BipeFlyer · Feb 6, 2018

chubsANDdoggers said:
You can see the left side very clearly here..
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180206/5601e493ee47d650ac3690ace82638cc.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180206/279e419c954e3203b8f5a02a6bb31625.jpg

I’ve seen this idea used many times before and so this is what I designed for my HFC m712 airsoft. Not sure how it measures up with this airsoft but I can share if needed. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180206/50632edc822bf7130971d40c7d4d903b.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180206/331a60537a53cfbe597ee131fe7f29f1.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180206/20f9f4546f161cd4dc3a86139cbf5531.jpg

Thanks for clarifying. That's a nice way to cover the hole and make it look right.

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kman · Feb 6, 2018

^^ Wasn't there someone who made metal plates that could just lay over the whole area in one step? I wonder if those would fit these, with or without some alteration?

Fly4v · Feb 6, 2018

kman said:
^^ Wasn't there someone who made metal plates that could just lay over the whole area in one step? I wonder if those would fit these, with or without some alteration?

Yes, there was a run of metal plates but those haven't returned....Yet?

Ash · Feb 6, 2018

Ash said:
Should have mine in my hands by the end of the week. FINALLY. So excited. Now just to find a decent holster rig that won't break the bank.

-Ash

Well it finally arrived and I must say many of the positive and negative comments made so far are pretty dead on. This thing has some heft to it for sure and it's crazy satisfying holding it in your hand. Mine all arrived in one box, so I didn't have to wait for the flash hinder to arrive separately which was nice. I also was suppose to receive the replica wood grips I ordered off eBay that we're "Guaranteed" to be delivered today and it appears USPS dropped the ball on it because they did not arrive today but hopefully will be here tomorrow (but what the hell good is a "guaranteed" delivery date if there are no repercussions for it not arriving?)

Couple road blocks I ran into or am still dealing with, as we all know, there are no "building" instructions with the weapon.

So the round thumb screws that hold the "scope mount" onto the main body of the gun still don't seem to be screwing in all the way and tight. Plus the t-bar part has a tiny screw that doesn't seem long enough to successfully screw into the gun all the way and I can see there is a "tab" on the back of the bar that seems to preventing the tiny screw from catching properly and I fear it might fall off.

Was this the same on everyone's? Anyone have any suggestions or tips on how to make these more flush with the body of the weapon?

-Ash

BipeFlyer · Feb 6, 2018

It's just the paint/powder coat in the threads. At first I thought I would have to re-tap mine, but screwing them in and out a few times cleared the threads and everything fits fine now.

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Ash · Feb 6, 2018

Alright. I'll give that a shot and let you know. Thanks BipeFlyer

-Ash

Ash · Feb 7, 2018

BipeFlyer yep, that worked. Just had to screw and unscrew them a couple times and now they’re nice and snug.

Next question: Can someone briefly go over the process of “aluminum blackening”?

-What else do I need besides that actual aluminum black product from Birchwood Casey?

-How is it applied? With a rag? A brush? Or do I have to use the Birchwood Casey swabbers?

-How much do you think is required? Amazon has it in 3oz, 32oz and touch up pen form. Would a single 3oz suffice?

Thanks for the help and tips.

-Ash

monsterpartyhat · Feb 7, 2018

I've blacked 2 DL-44s now. The AW, and a Denix. I used the swabbers from BC, but I doubt they're necessary - they're basically like high quality cotton balls. A rag would probably be fine.

After stripping the gun, I clean it, dry it, and then I've found that *heating* it helps a LOT. The blacking is a chemical reaction, and adding heat to most chemical reactions accelerates them.

IIRC, a 3oz bottles was enough for one gun, just barely. I applied a couple of coats, lightly sanding inbetween. Then I treated it with oil (gun oil, or any lightweight neutral oil will do).

Be sure to have plenty of ventilation. It can give off some nasty fumes.

BipeFlyer · Feb 7, 2018

I followed the instructions on this post and it worked for me.
https://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=265343&p=4120999&viewfull=1#post4120999

Make sure the metal is clean clean clean and heat it up with a heat gun. I tried dipping small parts and they turned black immediately, but it flaked of when I rinsed them. I found the best was was to rub the blacking on with a q-tip and a little pressure. I had to go over everything 3 or 4 times.

Don't bother with the touch up pen. It is just a paint pen. I bought another brand and it was just a re-labelled sharpie at 5 times the price.

I bought a 3 oz bottle and ran out and I am waiting for more. I could probably have made it through with 1 bottle if I hadn't wasted some that peeled off. I'd get 2 bottles to be on the safe side.

monsterpartyhat · Feb 7, 2018

BipeFlyer said:
I followed the instructions on this post and it worked for me.
https://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=265343&p=4120999&viewfull=1#post4120999

Thanks for finding my post that I couldn't find! :thumbsup

BipeFlyer · Feb 19, 2018

My aluminum black arrived, so I continue with this project. I stumbled across something. When I ran out of aluminum black, I tried regular gun blue and it turned the aluminum goldish brown. I used it on the flash hider for a heat discoloration effect.

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mrwax · Feb 19, 2018

BipeFlyer said:
My aluminum black arrived, so I continue with this project. I stumbled across something. When I ran out of aluminum black, I tried regular gun blue and it turned the aluminum goldish brown. I used it on the flash hider for a heat discoloration effect.

I really like that effect! Easier than trying to airbrush it.

New alternative for Solo Blaster

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