Where to buy stunt blades in 2014... (Updated with SOURCE!!)

Re: Where to buy stunt blades in 2014...

Dave,

Interestingly, I just got this email yesterday from Tim at the Custom Saber Shop:

" Steven,

Sorry for bouncing you around so much. I am Tim from The Custom Saber Shop and we just took over the US distributorship for Kilwell tubes. I am going to place my initial order soon and will be getting some of the Texalium tubes in 9mmID (.35") x 13.5mmOD (.53") x 995mm (39.17"). Let me know if this is what you are looking for.

Tim
The Custom Saber Shop"

Sounds like another step in the right direction!

SB

Did he mention a price?

----------------------------------------

As for adapting the blades to the hilt, I find it pretty effective and easy to wrap masking tape around the blade at a point near the emitter, and again near the pommel (or wherever the inner channel happens to end on your hilt), forming tight gaskets. I then drill a hole into the blade to accept a set screw. I don't trust a screw that merely presses against the outer surface of the blade.
Also, I can make blade caps out of oak on my lathe.

I'm concerned as to how difficult it might be to drill holes into the texalium.
 
Re: Where to buy stunt blades in 2014...

red4 - Nope, he didn't mention a price. I emailed him back early yesterday and asked for a quote. I'll update here when I get a response.

SB
 
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Re: Where to buy stunt blades in 2014...

As you guys have stated, there are various ways to do it, almost all seeming to include tape. I did something similar with mine on occasion, wrapping the base in masking tape, and using a small piece of polycarbonate to make sure it was the correct diameter without using a lot more tape. It worked, but it was a little messier than I liked and wasn't as easy to change to another diameter as I would like.

TCSS already has some reducers like this that I imagine would make it easier. A soft plastic that would help absorb some level of the shock, as well as making it easier and cleaner than wrapping the right amount of tape on multiple blades for multiple sabers. And if you happen to ruin your blade, you don't have to worry about wrapping your next one in a bunch of tape. The more seconds of life we can save the better right? :D
 
Re: Where to buy stunt blades in 2014...

... I then drill a hole into the blade to accept a set screw. I don't trust a screw that merely presses against the outer surface of the blade.

You'd be surprised at how well just one screw pinned against something, can hold that something it place. I used to drill holes through my blades as well and make the screw go into the hole. Not any more. All I'm saying is please don't knock it until you tried and tested it.
 
Re: Where to buy stunt blades in 2014...

You'd be surprised at how well just one screw pinned against something, can hold that something it place. I used to drill holes through my blades as well and make the screw go into the hole. Not any more. All I'm saying is please don't knock it until you tried and tested it.

There's really no point in trying a friction screw. That's fine if it works, but there's just no point in trying when a full-penetration screw is, by the laws of physics, significantly better than a friction screw.

Apparently a lot of aluminum lightsaber hilts are held together simply by friction. I bought one like this once without realizing that's how it was put together. I was able to pry it apart with my bares hands. That was really disappointing. When I get my next custom hilt made, I'm going to request that the machinist screw the sections together, rather than simply squeezing them together. I wholly prefer things anchored together.

As you guys have stated, there are various ways to do it, almost all seeming to include tape. I did something similar with mine on occasion, wrapping the base in masking tape, and using a small piece of polycarbonate to make sure it was the correct diameter without using a lot more tape. It worked, but it was a little messier than I liked and wasn't as easy to change to another diameter as I would like.

TCSS already has some reducers like this that I imagine would make it easier. A soft plastic that would help absorb some level of the shock, as well as making it easier and cleaner than wrapping the right amount of tape on multiple blades for multiple sabers. And if you happen to ruin your blade, you don't have to worry about wrapping your next one in a bunch of tape. The more seconds of life we can save the better right? :D

I'm not sure what you're doing with the tape that makes it messy. Also, wrapping a blade takes about 10 minutes. Since I get masking tape wholesale from work, it's a no-brainer option for me personally. Also, I hardly overdo the wrapping. I usually only have to remove about 2 or 3 layers. I've been doing this method for about 10 years, so I've got it down pat.
 
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Re: Where to buy stunt blades in 2014...

The tape got messy over time, after taking it out of and putting the blade in multiple hilts, the set screws slowly boring through the tape over time and things like this. It just started to wear down the tape and the sticky film sort of oozed out. None of it is major, as I can see it may come across with my wording. It is just a minor thing that causes some irritation, as I don't like my blades or emitters to be sticky at all.

It is a great way to go, and readily available and cheap. I just like having more options that may work better in different circumstances.
 
Re: Where to buy stunt blades in 2014...

Man I even said "please", lol.

red4, I'm not saying your ways won't work, but I have tried your ways and have found better ways to do it that work great and will enable the blades to last longer. Obviously, you disagree. Apparently our experiences differ but I assure you that I have thoroughly tested the screw through the blade method. The hole will eventually wear out and I would image that with a carbon fiber blade, it will be worse than with a polycarbonate blade, simply because of the fiberous nature of them. I switched to the tension/pressure method because in my experience (the key word being "my"), it works better with less wear and tear on the blade. Of course one could always combine both methods which in theory, should put less stress/strain on the hole with a screw in it and like having only a screw through a hole in the blade, would of course absolutely prevent the blade from flying out of the saber.

As for sabers held together with tension, I think only Saber Forge and perhaps Ultra Sabers do that but there may be others. You were able to pry it apart with your bare hands eh? Screws must have been loose or you have super strength. ;)
 
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Re: Where to buy stunt blades in 2014...

Man I even said "please", lol.

red4, I'm not saying your ways won't work, but I have tried your ways and have found better ways to do it that work great and will enable the blades to last longer. Obviously, you disagree. Apparently our experiences differ but I assure you that I have thoroughly tested the screw through the blade method. The hole will eventually wear out and I would image that with a carbon fiber blade, it will be worse than with a polycarbonate blade, simply because of the fiberous nature of them. I switched to the tension/pressure method because in my experience (the key word being "my"), it works better with less wear and tear on the blade. Of course one could always combine both methods which in theory, should put less stress/strain on the hole with a screw in it and like having only a screw through a hole in the blade, would of course absolutely prevent the blade from flying out of the saber.

As for sabers held together with tension, I think only Saber Forge and perhaps Ultra Sabers do that but there may be others. You were able to pry it apart with your bare hands eh? Screws must have been loose or you have super strength. ;)

When you put a screw all the way into the blade, you have to add a small core into the blade around the area where the screw goes. Some lightsaber blade manufacturers add an aluminum plug. This prevents damage to the fibrous nature of the blade, as you mentioned. I personally will be adding an oak plug.

RandomSabers were held together with friction. It's not that I yanked it apart in one move. I had to pry, pull, twist, and bang it apart. But it didn't take more than my own physical strength. If it had had screws holding the sections together, I would not have been able to do that. Granted, I can remove the screws with a screwdriver, but screws don't fall out with abuse if they're in tight. The way the RandomSaber was assembled, it could fall apart if I dropped it on concrete enough times.

The tape got messy over time, after taking it out of and putting the blade in multiple hilts, the set screws slowly boring through the tape over time and things like this. It just started to wear down the tape and the sticky film sort of oozed out. None of it is major, as I can see it may come across with my wording. It is just a minor thing that causes some irritation, as I don't like my blades or emitters to be sticky at all.

It is a great way to go, and readily available and cheap. I just like having more options that may work better in different circumstances.

I see. That makes sense. I won't be repeatedly removing and replacing the blades on mine.
 
Re: Where to buy stunt blades in 2014...

I see. That makes sense. I won't be repeatedly removing and replacing the blades on mine.

So in that case, tape probably works perfectly for you. A simple and effective option that gets the job done. For me, I like to remove them for filming reasons so I don't have to go through the pain of removing them in post, as well as being able to use them in different hilts if necessary to save on buying a few more blades if I can. For these sort of reasons, I personally would like more options to facilitate that sort of thing. I've made do in the past with various DIY adapters made on the spot, but something more generic and clean for my purposes would be great to have, and I don't have the resources at this time to make something reusable that fits those needs exactly. This is why I hope Tim comes up with something that will fit that requirement, especially since I already have a bunch of TCSS emitters anyway. The more options the better.
 
Re: Where to buy stunt blades in 2014...

Tim got back to me, and here's what he said concerning the price:

"They should be around $35 but I do not have a complete idea on my cost with shipping yet so that may change. If you get back to me in a week or so I should know more."

So I'll hit him up again in a week or so and see if the $35 is still in the ballpark. That's a pretty good deal considering all the other sites I've looked at have listed their similarly sized CF rods at upwards of $70.

SB
 
Re: Where to buy stunt blades in 2014...

Small update: I emailed Tim and asked if he had prices down yet for the tubes that he's ordering from Kilwell, and he said that he is still in the process of putting together his order, and to check back in a week or so.

SB
 
Re: Where to buy stunt blades in 2014...

Small update from Tim: "I did get pricing but I will not know the retail price for sure until I have them in hand since I may be charged import fees, etc but it should be around $40. I should have them within the next few weeks."

After a lot of hunting around it looks like we might finally be in business!

SB
 
Re: Where to buy stunt blades in 2014...

Okay, so I've got some great news! After two months of detective work trying to track down where to get carbon fiber/texalium tubing, and being shuffled from one person to the next, Tim from The Custom Saber Shop got back to me today and said that he has texalium tubes in stock!

Head to the link to get yours before he's out!

Carbon Fiber Tube

SB
 
Re: Where to buy stunt blades in 2014...

My Texalium tubes came in the mail today!

uploadfromtaptalk1404185588802.jpg
 
Re: Where to buy stunt blades in 2014...

Have you done any hard tests on them?

I haven't attached them to a saber yet, but I have whacked them together pretty hard and they don't bend. I even tried bending them with my hands and I couldn't do it. And they're light as a feather, too! Super strong and super light.

SB
 
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