Bandai 1/72 PG Millennium Falcon (also the Revell Germany rebox)

Re: Bandai 1/72 Millennium Falcon

I built mine as I wanted it to look. A little grungier and more damaged that the research photos I have seen of the 5'er. The teensy decals are on my model, but I agree, they were almost a joke by the Model Shop crew at ILM. The decals were left over from the kit-bashed models they used for greeblies, so they tossed them all over the thing; probably to keep from going crazy from the work load and the horrendously quick delivery date for model. When you are working day and night to crank out props, crazier things than some random decals can find themselves on the props. Remember all the junk that anded up on the Mother Ship from Close Encounters!
 
Re: Bandai 1/72 Millennium Falcon

True - my GF is the art director/lead fabricator for the 34th St Macy's Christmas windows, and a little cardboard miniature of my cat ended up in one of them this year!
 
Re: Bandai 1/72 Millennium Falcon

I built mine as I wanted it to look. A little grungier and more damaged that the research photos I have seen of the 5'er. The teensy decals are on my model, but I agree, they were almost a joke by the Model Shop crew at ILM. The decals were left over from the kit-bashed models they used for greeblies, so they tossed them all over the thing; probably to keep from going crazy from the work load and the horrendously quick delivery date for model. When you are working day and night to crank out props, crazier things than some random decals can find themselves on the props. Remember all the junk that anded up on the Mother Ship from Close Encounters!

I'm going to strive to build mine to look cool. I feel out of my depth here trying to hit just about any other target. Heck, I'm almost certainly out of my depth on the 'look cool' target, too. What can you do?

The part stiles me as most fascinating at the moment is the weathering, corrosion, rust (did they really use iron in the alloy?). Weathering wears a surface down from the outside. Corrosion/rust will cause damage emerging from the surface including the separation of any surface preparation. Anyone ever play around with that idea? If so, what techniques did you use.

And, if anyone has any favorite references for weathering / painting: distressing / building these types of model, I'm all ears.


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Re: Bandai 1/72 Millennium Falcon

I'm going to strive to build mine to look cool. I feel out of my depth here trying to hit just about any other target. Heck, I'm almost certainly out of my depth on the 'look cool' target, too. What can you do?

The part stiles me as most fascinating at the moment is the weathering, corrosion, rust (did they really use iron in the alloy?). Weathering wears a surface down from the outside. Corrosion/rust will cause damage emerging from the surface including the separation of any surface preparation. Anyone ever play around with that idea? If so, what techniques did you use.

And, if anyone has any favorite references for weathering / painting: distressing / building these types of model, I'm all ears.


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I would suggest YouTube videos on weathering and rusting effects. It shouldn't matter much if the video is weathering a car, tank, or ship. The weathering technique should be fine if it gets the result you are looking for.

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Re: Bandai 1/72 Millennium Falcon

I'm no good at painting/weathering but I had a kinda crazy shower thought this morning:

There's a craft process of using solvents/alcohol to transfer laserprinted images onto things like sculpey or wood or what have you. What about using actual photo references from the 5', scaled and stretched in photoshop, printed with a laser-printer, and then applied panel by panel for a super accurate paint-job?

I guess it probably wouldn't work in a lot of the really detailed areas... and I'm not sure if it would adhere properly to the plastic... but it's a thought...
 
Re: Bandai 1/72 Millennium Falcon

I'm no good at painting/weathering but I had a kinda crazy shower thought this morning:

There's a craft process of using solvents/alcohol to transfer laserprinted images onto things like sculpey or wood or what have you. What about using actual photo references from the 5', scaled and stretched in photoshop, printed with a laser-printer, and then applied panel by panel for a super accurate paint-job?

I guess it probably wouldn't work in a lot of the really detailed areas... and I'm not sure if it would adhere properly to the plastic... but it's a thought...

Wouldn't it be cool if in the future it was possible to paint a kit with some kind of transparent paint that reacts with light like photo paper so that you could project an image on the surface, like a photo of the actual 5-footer, and the image would imprint as a perfect copy! That would be sweet! I remember hearing a story from an ILM matte painter back during the making of the OT when George Lucas stepped up and commented (I'm paraphrasing), "Some day were going to have the ability to move the camera into the painting with the characters." A short time later they started developing Pixar. Ya gotta dream it before you do it. :cheers
 
Re: Bandai 1/72 Millennium Falcon

Hey, folks -- I wanna see what you guys think of this. . . As much as I love the paint and weathering that ILM did on the 5-footer, I'm gonna go for a little more of an AFV modelling approach. We all know that there couldn't be any reflective elements or surfaces on the model, 'cause that'd mess up the compositing. But the sets show canopy glass, and the interiors sure have a lot of bare metal details. So I plan on having a few rusty-metallic, not just rusty-white spots here and there on mine. Not to contradict anything, but the bring my Falcon into line with real-world weathering I've seen out there. I've been taking pictures for years, building up a reference collection, to be able to do just this. Here are a couple of pics:View attachment 780446View attachment 780447
So, I wanna have rust and soot, etc., where it is on the 5-footer, BUT, I want it to look like it does here, with lots of speckles, gradations, etc., and a little pencil-graphite or gunmetal paint right in the center -- just a hint -- to imply metal. AND: though it'll seem like blasphemy to some, I plan on keeping the weathering "toned down," to reflect my view of the "real thing." Now, in my defense, I'm presenting an article from FSM about the U-2 built for "Thirteen Days." They point out that the plane was deliberately "over-weathered," for the detail to read on screen as it rushes past. And this was shot outdoors, all in-camera, with no compositing (I think). My interpretation -- this is just my interpretation -- is that ILM did the same on the SW miniatures. They were meant to convey an illusion on film, _and_ through a few passes of '70s compositing. Here's the article:
View attachment 780448View attachment 780449

I understand that most of you will disagree, BUT, please keep it nice! :(

I am going to be building the Falcon as if it were a "real" world ship as well rather than duplicate the studio model only.

I am happy with the cockpit interior and I will be using the engine inserts and grill. I might have preferred the A New Hope full size cockpit instead of the ESB style though, but most people will recognize not notice anyway

I also try to tone down some patchwork quilt look on most of my Star Wars stuff compared to the studio models. As @nkg mentioned, the difference between in person and on screen can sometimes be huge.

I admire people who duplicate the filming miniatures so exact, but I also like seeing what how people put there own twist on it as well.

it's all down to preference which path you take on your own.
 
Re: Bandai 1/72 Millennium Falcon

I'm going to strive to build mine to look cool. I feel out of my depth here trying to hit just about any other target. Heck, I'm almost certainly out of my depth on the 'look cool' target, too. What can you do?

The part stiles me as most fascinating at the moment is the weathering, corrosion, rust (did they really use iron in the alloy?). Weathering wears a surface down from the outside. Corrosion/rust will cause damage emerging from the surface including the separation of any surface preparation. Anyone ever play around with that idea? If so, what techniques did you use.

And, if anyone has any favorite references for weathering / painting: distressing / building these types of model, I'm all ears.


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You can do some really good weathering with just pastels and oil paints. They are very forgiving to work with and can be built up in layers
 
Re: Bandai 1/72 Millennium Falcon

Thanks for the compliment! I know you've asked a coupe times how people are going about painting. Here is my 2 cents.
-Black automotive primer
-Tamiya AS-20 Insignia White base coat
-I start by airbrushing the obvious grey and red panels (I mixed my own colors)
-liquid latex mask for paint chipping.
-I'll tone down the reds a little by going back over with my base coat color through the airbrush very lightly. You can see where ILM did this also on the 5ft. (See photo)
-For the various other colored panels I used oils. I find if I thin them enough I can get the subtle translucent feel I'm looking for. (See photo) I seal the oils with clear coat or it will be until July until it's dry. The biggest mistake I see is when some of these subtle panels are painted too heavy. The panels start to look more like a chess board if you're not careful. If you accidentally go too heavy you can lightly hit them with your base coat to tone them down.
-I then did all the little black and orange tick marks with a fine art pen.
-I use various techniques for the steaks. For the dark ones I use the post-it note method with the airbrush and extremely thinned Tamiya Smoke. This leaves the steaks pretty sharp more like the 32inch, so I soften them up by lightly going back over them with the Tamiya weathering kit. (See photo) I also use them to make lighter steaks. Look at the reference there are dark and there are really light streaks. I really like this effect and try to emulate this. There are some very small oil streaks on the top of the hull that I used the art pen to achieve
-I use oils for the variations of dark and orangish rusts along the hull and side walls. Same color but based on thickness changes the color. I like doing this because rust isn't just one shade.
-I hit it with the dremel for extra scratches and chips. There are reference where you can see black under the paint. If I accidentally go through the primer layer I just take the art pen or oils and color it black in the groove.
- The 1gazillion decals is what I hated worst. Some I can't even see.
- sealed it all with a clear coat.

Would love to try the ArchiveX paints someday. Just can't afford them right now.


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171216/a81161c0578bf37997e623ec8f1cf5c9.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171216/3bfc704ec2b498f1fe01b877e3472abb.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171216/070bb64387baff5fd528e8b8aaeb5a52.jpg

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So that's AS-20 over a black base?

Was it the AS-20 from the rattle can?

When I tested some AS-20 against the plastic it seemed kind of on the grey side. I used AS-20 for my Fine Molds Falcon and for the most part was happy for the most part, but it just seemed to grey compared to a lot of pics and in certain lighting

I guess it comes down to how it's being lit, and whether you are more yellow lights or cool white flourescent lights
 
Re: Bandai 1/72 Millennium Falcon

So that's AS-20 over a black base?

Was it the AS-20 from the rattle can?

When I tested some AS-20 against the plastic it seemed kind of on the grey side. I used AS-20 for my Fine Molds Falcon and for the most part was happy for the most part, but it just seemed to grey compared to a lot of pics and in certain lighting

I guess it comes down to how it's being lit, and whether you are more yellow lights or cool white flourescent lights

Yes and yes on black primer and AS-20 from rattle can.

You nailed it! It exactly comes down to what light you are viewing it under. I think in daylight it looks more grey and under lights in my house it has more of a yellowish tan hue depending on the type of light.

I'm a firm believer that as long as you get your base coat reasonably close you can really tweak it quite a bit with your weathering. Here is a quick shot I just took with my cell in natural daylight with the rear deck off to compare the Bandai color with my finished Falcon. No washes.

I am sold that the ArchiveX Reefer White is the closest match I've seen to the 5ft.
4b2666044d759c79e0fbf746e644baf1.jpg


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Re: Bandai 1/72 Millennium Falcon

Yes and yes on black primer and AS-20 from rattle can.

You nailed it! It exactly comes down to what light you are viewing it under. I think in daylight it looks more grey and under lights in my house it has more of a yellowish tan hue depending on the type of light.

I'm a firm believer that as long as you get your base coat reasonably close you can really tweak it quite a bit with your weathering. Here is a quick shot I just took with my cell in natural daylight with the rear deck off to compare the Bandai color with my finished Falcon. No washes.

I am sold that the ArchiveX Reefer White is the closest match I've seen to the 5ft.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171218/4b2666044d759c79e0fbf746e644baf1.jpg

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Thanks for that shot

This is what I had when comparing the AS-20 to the bare plastic



But then in slightly different light from a slightly different angle



I'm torn between going with the AS-20 from the spray can (I've got several cans in my stash) or mixing a White/Deck Tan mix

The straight AS-20 would sure make it easy to paint in subsections at different times as well as spot touching up areas later down the line without worrying about getting the mix right, or wasting too much paint mixing a huge batch

..and you proved it looks the part
 
Re: Bandai 1/72 Millennium Falcon

It can also yellow over time.

Robert

I wasn't aware of Future yellowing. I used it on Bandai's 1/12 R2-D2/R5-D4 kit before applying the decals, now wish I'd gone another route (luckily that's an inexpensive kit). I have loved using Future so much, I really hate hearing this. I'm nowhere near the skill level of the builders on this site (started a year ago), so was curious if there is any technique that will slow down/reduce the yellowing (applying a dull-cote as final step, perhaps). Thanks in advance if anyone has any advice.

By the way, haven't grabbed this Falcon yet - plan to early 2018.
 
Re: Bandai 1/72 Millennium Falcon

I have only heard future yellowing from one other person. I have used it successfully for years with no such effects. It even says on the bottle non yellowing. I have several builds I used this method on and have not experiencened any yellowing. Of course, for whatever reason , others mileage may vary.
 
Re: Bandai 1/72 Millennium Falcon

I just used some future on the canopy glass and it surely was a major improvement

Previously you couldn't really see the interior that well because it was so warped looking, but after brushing on some future, it is nearly distortion free
(I actually just use a paint brush to brush it on since it self levels anyway)

I have only had things covered in future for a few years, but if future really does yellow over time, you could easily remove it with Windex or ammonia and reapply some more

Obviously it is harder if you use it all over the model, but I generally only use it for the windows and behind some decals. But with the decals, you are just as likely to have them yellow over time if they aren't protected anyway

It also might make a difference what paints you use

I've heard it recommended that you use flat or satin paints before applying the future instead of gloss paints/coats like Testors, or maybe some types of matte/gloss varnish that have a yellowish tint (like when you see Testor gloss paints in the jar before they are mixed where the gloss medium has a yellow tint)
 
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Re: Bandai 1/72 Millennium Falcon

I tried AS-20 on mine, but thought it was a touch too gray.
I mixed a custom blend of Reefer White (Badger acrylic) and Polly Scale Grime. About 3 parts Reefer White and 1 part Grime.
It gave it just the nice "warm" white tone that seems to match the way I see it in pics.
 
Re: Bandai 1/72 Millennium Falcon

I am going to be building the Falcon as if it were a "real" world ship as well rather than duplicate the studio model only.

I am happy with the cockpit interior and I will be using the engine inserts and grill. I might have preferred the A New Hope full size cockpit instead of the ESB style though, but most people will recognize not notice anyway

I also try to tone down some patchwork quilt look on most of my Star Wars stuff compared to the studio models. As @nkg mentioned, the difference between in person and on screen can sometimes be huge.

I admire people who duplicate the filming miniatures so exact, but I also like seeing what how people put there own twist on it as well.

it's all down to preference which path you take on your own.

Yeah, I like seeing what everybody is doing here -- it's great! I just have a specific idea of what I want mine to be.
 
Re: Bandai 1/72 Millennium Falcon

I would suggest YouTube videos on weathering and rusting effects. It shouldn't matter much if the video is weathering a car, tank, or ship. The weathering technique should be fine if it gets the result you are looking for.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

It seems I'm a dinosaur. I always started any new project at the library. Nowadays, I guess, it's the video screen? And forums like this, of course. But it feels so much like I'm reading the magazines without having done the basic bookwork required to follow it all.

My estate may be selling off the unopened box before I get to the point I feel qualified to start. Unless... any thoughts on the viability of building the whole thing (or select assemblies) first, THEN working on modifications, painting, and weathering?

Thanks in advance.


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Re: Bandai 1/72 Millennium Falcon

It seems I'm a dinosaur. I always started any new project at the library. Nowadays, I guess, it's the video screen? And forums like this, of course. But it feels so much like I'm reading the magazines without having done the basic bookwork required to follow it all.

My estate may be selling off the unopened box before I get to the point I feel qualified to start. Unless... any thoughts on the viability of building the whole thing (or select assemblies) first, THEN working on modifications, painting, and weathering?

Thanks in advance.


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I built the cockpit first and painted it and the figures

Next I built all the maintenance pits/wells and detail below the damage area and primed them black because it will be tough to get good coverage once they are in place beneath the hull

I also am painting the engine parts separate since that should be done before adding the LEDs and joining the two hulls

The plan is to then is to just assemble everything else, maybe then prime black, maybe skip primer, I am not sure yet, and then paint either an AS-20 base using spray cans, or airbrush a mix of Tamiya Flat white and Deck Tan

The priming step I think depends on whether I go with rattle can AS-20 or not. If I airbrush, I an definitely priming

It's better to have a finished display piece you can enjoy even though it might not be 100% perfect rather than something sitting in a box tucked away in a closet

Heck even if you just assemble the whole thing, spray a base coat and decal it, you can at least enjoy it until you get confident enough to weather i

I've also forced myself to be realistic with things. I can stall so many builds planning the perfect mods, wanting to do everything, do all kinds of fancy lighting.

Some people love tinkering with stuff, but my enjoyment is mostly in painting and having something I can look at on my desk or shelf

These days I save the endless mods for a select few kits that really need help. For me, the PG Falcon is just about perfect out of the box. I figure why waste time fudging around with things when I have a whole bunch of other kits that need much more attention to spit shine a turd of a kit (like the 1/72 Eagle Transporter)

Also, being a snap kit, you should be able to disassemble it enough to add mods later for the cockpit. Not sure what other mods you might want, but you can get to the lighting for the rear engines I think as well. The opening also gives you access to a lot of the interior
 

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