New Zvezda Star Destroyer Model kit

Since I have zero experience with any FO stuff and started drilling holes thru the trench, one thing that came to my mind is that do you just cut the skirt on some parts from the upper hull that meets the trench, since some FO is gonna be on the way when fitting the hulls together? Sounds kinda noobish question but hey, thats exactly what I am :lol
 
Since I have zero experience with any FO stuff and started drilling holes thru the trench, one thing that came to my mind is that do you just cut the skirt on some parts from the upper hull that meets the trench, since some FO is gonna be on the way when fitting the hulls together? Sounds kinda noobish question but hey, thats exactly what I am :lol


You have to do that if not when the hull mate they will crush your FO work.
 
I removed the entire skirt from the upper hull except for a small bit at the front and a few along the side to help align the hulls for gluing.
 
Robiwon, Joe.... given that this removal is necessary, do you think that there's any possibility of affixing the upper hull to the lower with magnets?
 
Robiwon, Joe.... given that this removal is necessary, do you think that there's any possibility of affixing the upper hull to the lower with magnets?

Yes, how is that done? I'm thinking about using magnets to hold the wedding cake superstructure down on the model so I can open it up to change batteries (I'm internally powering this because it is going to hang from the ceiling in an invisible fishing line cradle). Are there mini-magnets powerful enough to hold through the plastic, and do we use double sided tape, hot glue or something else to hold them in place? I've never seen or heard of that technique used before, but I have read it mentioned a few times in regards to this build.
 
Even though the plastic parts are nice and straight, I don't know if magnets alone would hold the hulls together without light leaks. Super glue or 5 minute epoxy will glue the magnets nicely though.
 
It would be a design question to be sure, and it would take strategic placement of the magnets. They also could not be too strong - otherwise one may as well have glued things together in the first place!
 
Even though the plastic parts are nice and straight, I don't know if magnets alone would hold the hulls together without light leaks. Super glue or 5 minute epoxy will glue the magnets nicely though.

What is your estimation on using them on the roof lid of the superstructure just under the conning tower? At first look it appears there might be enough room in there to put battery components and get my hands in there to change them out, but I have not even taken it out of the box yet to dry-fit, so I do not yet know if that is an option or not.
 
I'm trying to finish up my 1/29 X-wing before I get all hot and heavy on the Zvezda. Because if I start fondling it now, I won't get back to finishing the Revell, like maybe never.

I know myself.

I have a weakness for Capital ships.

And I did the Revell because I got a good deal on it and it was big enough for me to get my feet wet with lighting it.
 
Not sure about the undertones this thread is taking. Astonished, even. The fondling. The heaviness and hotness of it all. We are all so very, very weak, are we not? Don't give in! Trust The Force!!

;)
 
In the midst of all the oogling, all the eyeballing, all the Zveda build-porn, the fondling... trusting the Force is requiring that we weak mortals just turn our wallets over to the keepers of After Market accouterments.
 
Even though the plastic parts are nice and straight, I don't know if magnets alone would hold the hulls together without light leaks. Super glue or 5 minute epoxy will glue the magnets nicely though.

Hey guys, I was reading this thread and putting some thought to the question of using magnets to mount the wedding cake layer top and what Robiwon pointed out about the potential light leak. I noticed a bit of a space as well when the parts aren't snugly pulled together all around. Not enough to be a gap but definitely a light leak. So my question is, do you guys think maybe one could glue a strip of plastic all around the perimeter forming some sort of light blocking skirt? It doesn't have to be substantial, just low enough to fill the space. I like the idea of internal power and a removable top. That looks to be the most logical part to make removable. What say ye?

Bill
 
Not sure guys. Give it a try is all I can say. I have not used magnets on this large a scale before. Twas a good weekend for me. Got the hulls all glued up, got black primer laid down, followed by grey primer, masked, and the first shot of white put on. Still need another coat or two of white.

She does look good in black!

2uyhmcm.jpg
 
Hey guys, I was reading this thread and putting some thought to the question of using magnets to mount the wedding cake layer top and what Robiwon pointed out about the potential light leak. I noticed a bit of a space as well when the parts aren't snugly pulled together all around. Not enough to be a gap but definitely a light leak. So my question is, do you guys think maybe one could glue a strip of plastic all around the perimeter forming some sort of light blocking skirt? It doesn't have to be substantial, just low enough to fill the space. I like the idea of internal power and a removable top. That looks to be the most logical part to make removable. What say ye?

Bill

THAT might be an interesting way to create a 'lip' that not only blocks light leak, but also secures the lid structure from side-to-side slippage. As I look at the parts - I'm thinking I might try and just have the top ceiling the bridge tower sits on be the removable section, keeping the wedding cake walls glued down because all the FO is going to be through the sides and I'm not sure removing the entire wedding cake superstructure is going to be such a great idea. Unless of course you have all your FO and power for the superstructure glued and secured to the upper inside so when removing it, it is all self-contained within the wedding cake. Not sure that is viable for my skill-level.
 
Thinking about this accessibility issue and internal power supplies, has anyone ever played around with rechargeable battery packs inside the model with a small micro-USB recharge port hidden under a removable panel or feature somewhere? True, nothing would be easily accessible if something went wrong but there could be no light leaks and everything would be really secure. Just a thought.
 
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