What flat clear coats do you guys use?

Purple Yoda

New Member
Hi all, after discovering the amazingness that is the Perfect Grade Millennium Falcon I decided to dive into the Bandai line. I am starting with simple builds like the Tie Advanced and work my way up to the Falcon (which was delivered today). After reading the whole build thread for the Falcon, I have plenty of tips to test and try but the one thing I wasn't able to find was what type of clear coats that you guys are using or would recommend. I am ideally looking for a combination of quality, ease of use and cost effectiveness. Thanks in advance for your help. I can't wait
 
the best there is i think. ..
ab5eb7ca87902aaf7eaa8ae757f20847.jpg


Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-T805 met Tapatalk
 
the best there is i think. ..https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180407/ab5eb7ca87902aaf7eaa8ae757f20847.jpg

Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-T805 met Tapatalk
This is my sentiments exactly. 4-5 bucks a can, and worth every single penny. If you have an aibrush, you can get twice the coverage by decantering it into a cup and spraying with the AB. This also gets the arosol out of it that causes the fogging effect in matte clears. Stay away from Enamel paints with this stuff, and understand any acrylic you cover with this will burn through slightly if you don't have enough base layers down. Do not use this stuff on cheap hobby craft paint. It will burn it down to almost primer.

Edit: Thought this was labeled this way but this is the new lable for "Dull Coat" so if you see that stuff, it's the same formula, different lable.

Sent from my LGLS775 using Tapatalk
 
This is my sentiments exactly. 4-5 bucks a can, and worth every single penny. If you have an aibrush, you can get twice the coverage by decantering it into a cup and spraying with the AB. This also gets the arosol out of it that causes the fogging effect in matte clears. Stay away from Enamel paints with this stuff, and understand any acrylic you cover with this will burn through slightly if you don't have enough base layers down. Do not use this stuff on cheap hobby craft paint. It will burn it down to almost primer.

Edit: Thought this was labeled this way but this is the new lable for "Dull Coat" so if you see that stuff, it's the same formula, different lable.

Sent from my LGLS775 using Tapatalk
It still is with this one that as soon as you spray on it I should not in any way touch the paint even if you see a hair on anything. Just wait till it's dry because no matter bit many layers you have on as soon as you touch it when were you will move the paint.
It like it's totally unstable for a little bit of time but it dryd real quick and the result is amazing.
The only thing is it's not cheap. It cost me a think 8 Euro for a tiny can. But it last quite a while.

Thanks for the tip of using a airbrush. I will try that myself!!

please don't take me serious I'm crazy :)
 
Krylon Matt Finish when done usually over a few gloss coats and it has never yellowed and its tough. Its cheap too at WalMart.
 
Krylon Matt Finish when done usually over a few gloss coats and it has never yellowed and its tough. Its cheap too at WalMart.
So long as you don't spray a second coat! If you try to recoat with Krylon matte you'll get the fog effect every time. Hate that stuff... Been srpaying paint for 25+ years from cans, HVLP, airbrushes you name it and that is single handedly the WORST clear I have ever used.

Just my opinion, I don't mean to argue or tell you "I think you're wrong" my experience is just much different it seems. I hear (or read) Krylon Matte Clear, and I'm instantly transported to a dozen or more projects I had to strip and repaint because of it...

Sent from my LGLS775 using Tapatalk
 
This is my sentiments exactly. 4-5 bucks a can, and worth every single penny. If you have an airbrush, you can get twice the coverage by decantering it into a cup and spraying with the AB. This also gets the aerosol out of it that causes the fogging effect in matte clears. Stay away from Enamel paints with this stuff, and understand any acrylic you cover with this will burn through slightly if you don't have enough base layers down. Do not use this stuff on cheap hobby craft paint. It will burn it down to almost primer.
Edit: Thought this was labeled this way but this is the new label for "Dull Coat" so if you see that stuff, it's the same formula, different label.
Sent from my LGLS775 using Tapatalk

I'm curious what you mean by " burn through slightly "
I had an interesting problem come up this week.
My usual method of painting is Primer, acrylics paints, usually Vallejo or Tamiya, Testors Spray lacquer,
let that dry overnight and then add a layer of Future, let it dry overnight, do the decals, then do a pin wash for the panel lines with Oil paint and mineral spirits.
The problem started when I did the pin wash.
Most of the model was fine except for where I had used Mig Ammo acrylic paint.
I lightly brushed away the excess mineral spirits and the paint came right off.
Not where I had used Vallejo paints, just the Mig Ammo paint, the rest of the model paints behaved just fine.

I'm wondering if the Testors Spray lacquer does not play well with Mig Ammo paint?

or should I maybe reverse the layers?
primer, Acrylic paints, Future, pin wash, any chalk weathering, then add the spray lacquer as a final sealer?
 
I'm curious what you mean by " burn through slightly "
I had an interesting problem come up this week.
My usual method of painting is Primer, acrylics paints, usually Vallejo or Tamiya, Testors Spray lacquer,
let that dry overnight and then add a layer of Future, let it dry overnight, do the decals, then do a pin wash for the panel lines with Oil paint and mineral spirits.
The problem started when I did the pin wash.
Most of the model was fine except for where I had used Mig Ammo acrylic paint.
I lightly brushed away the excess mineral spirits and the paint came right off.
Not where I had used Vallejo paints, just the Mig Ammo paint, the rest of the model paints behaved just fine.

I'm wondering if the Testors Spray lacquer does not play well with Mig Ammo paint?

or should I maybe reverse the layers?
primer, Acrylic paints, Future, pin wash, any chalk weathering, then add the spray lacquer as a final sealer?
It's all about the chemical base of the "acrylic" paint you're using. Some are alcohol based, others are water based, others are hybrids of laquer and acrylic.

What I mean by "burn through" is that when you put a new layer over whatever you already have down, it is going to re-activate the layer below as it is applied. If the layer below it is of a weaker paint type, it will actually "eat" the paint off to the point you will see your primer/base coat showing through. Looks like poo. In your instance, I would spray it with a stronger acrylic based clear through my airbrush, something like Tamiya or the like, let that cure (not dry CURE) and then hit it with the dull coat.

And for the love of God, DONT USE FUTURE. I hate that this is still being used. Yes it works. No it doesn't yellow. But it's an acrylic floor finish, not a clear coat for painted display pieces, and surely not for things you're going to handle regularly. I think this stemmed from older war plane modelers looking for a clear that was safe to spray over cockpit bubbles without fogging or yellowing glass and seems to have trickled over to every other paint included hobby out there. Cheap = cheap in my eyes.

Sent from my LGLS775 using Tapatalk
 
Yeah that's what I think is happening. The spray lacquer is reactivating the Mig paint.
I'm pretty sure Mig formulated their paints so it gives an easier "chipping" effect that's popular with tank modelers.

Haha! actually I am one of those older war plane modelers doing a WWII Airplane.
I know, blasphemy to think their is something other than Bandai Star Wars models.
But if not future then what would you suggest?
I'm using future because it gives a nice smooth surface for the decals and oil paint washes flow really well with it.
 
Thanks for the suggestions. What I am gathering is to make sure the undercoat have cured before applying. I plan on using mostly Tamiya and Vallejo Air and it sounds like they play well with the Testors.
 
I don't use any clear coat. A model that is completely flat or completely satin or completely gloss isn't realistic. No vehicle is uniformly one sheen. I think that clear coats are just an old school habit that never died out.
 
Ive had decals dry up and flake off a model that wasnt cleared. So I always clear coat as a way to protect and preserve the finish.
Testors dull coat, krylon satin or future.
 
I don't use any clear coat. A model that is completely flat or completely satin or completely gloss isn't realistic. No vehicle is uniformly one sheen. I think that clear coats are just an old school habit that never died out.

Dull coat is a must when you do weathering to protect your work and a gloss coat to do a wash but espcially apply decals properly, "completely flat or completely satin or completely gloss isn't realistic" you can achieve any gloss level with clearcoats.
 
Dull coat is a must when you do weathering to protect your work and a gloss coat to do a wash but espcially apply decals properly

I've done all three of those things without a clear coat and they have not been adversely affected.
 
There are many ways to finish a model. But a mixture of clear and base coat, done properly, will make the model less toy-like. Dulls any overbearing colors and adds to the realism.
 
Last edited:
I've done all three of those things without a clear coat and they have not been adversely affected.


Not sure if you do Miltary or Aviation models but applying decals without a gloss coat first you will have major silvering, not sure how you can have good result applying decals on a matt finish base, would love to see some of your work.
 
This thread is more than 5 years old.

Your message may be considered spam for the following reasons:

  1. This thread hasn't been active in some time. A new post in this thread might not contribute constructively to this discussion after so long.
If you wish to reply despite these issues, check the box below before replying.
Be aware that malicious compliance may result in more severe penalties.
Back
Top