Sail barge saber in March 2017 WIRED magazine?

here are some pics of the Shared Stunt up close for comparison
Luke_ROTJ_real_stunt_board.jpgLFA_SharedStunt_VaderStunt1.jpgP1010062.jpg
 
Guys, I take advantage if it while your were debugging V3/Shared names etc.. I would suggest an idea. While helping me doing my 3D model of the V2, morgan63 and I saw that there was an incomprehension within all the names of ROTJ's sabers, V2, Shared V2, Shared Stunt, V3 etc .. It is hard to do a proper research while being confused with all those names.It would be kind if someone who has a great knowledge of the subject makes a history like the one on the helmets of Boba Fett about Luke's ROTJ sabers.
Histoire-des-casques-de-Boba-Fett-Star-Wars-Infographie-Janvier-2014-840x1095.jpg

Edit: Also thinking about adding it in the guide that SethS realized :)
 
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Do you have a clear picture of the rod being attached to the 'hammer' lightsaber, please?

Chaïm

I could have SWORN you could see the rod-- but you're right! Now that I see the image again, there's no sign of it.

echo_hammer.jpg

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Guys, I take advantage if it while your were debugging V3/Shared names etc.. I would suggest an idea. While helping me doing my 3D model of the V2, @morgan63 and I saw that there was an incomprehension within all the names of ROTJ's sabers, V2, Shared V2, Shared Stunt, V3 etc .. It is hard to do a proper research while being confused with all those names.It would be kind if someone who has a great knowledge of the subject makes a history like the one on the helmets of Boba Fett about Luke's ROTJ sabers.
View attachment 712889

Edit: Also thinking about adding it in the guide that SethS realized :)

I also dod a flowchart Lightsaber family tree along the lines of what you're saying...

Lightsaber_Family_Tree.jpg


...which I now need to update after we've seen this new new resin badboy...
 
Hey @SethS , in the green ROTJ section of the Lightsaber Family Tree map, photo of Luke on the Sailbarge with Chewbacca, you have it as "LUKE HERO" "V2" under it.

I thought we were just calling it V2, and the "HERO" was the closeup shots lightsaber with the triangle lights and retractable card on the control box.

I'm so confused, I hate whoever made all these different lightsabers.:wacko

I swear to the Force, if I ever make a movie that has lightsabers in it, or any prop that is integral to the story: there will only be one prop per character, each prop will be made out of Adamantium (or the real world equivalent), it will be painted/weathered and then anodized with diamond-dust clear coating so that it cannot change its appearance from frame to frame, and I will have each prop returned to me after each take and locked in a safe next to my director's chair!
 
Yeah, I should fix that. The V2 really was the hero and I think I was trying to make that clear-- but that probably made it more confusing.
 
Hey Pedro! For this particular article you just change the number at the end "1" through "8"....

Nicely done, cool tips! Looking again at Wired, it looks like Wordpress is actually re-scaling the image based on the resolution in the w_XXXX part of the URL, so you can go as high as you want but it's only resizing the original image. So just keep going up until it's apparent that you've reached the real original resolution (very high in this case!). Thanks for the tips!

Now back to lightsabers...
 
Hey @master jinn ! You're welcome, and yes!

Since we know the length (2") and width of the GRAFLEX clamp, all you have to do is print the image out on a 8.5 x 14 legal size piece of paper such that the clamp is printed 1:1 scale.

Then just take your measurements to the centerlines of the parts that are ellipses in the photos (due to optical distortion from perspective) and you'll have a rough idea of the length of the parts.

If you have a 3D program you can start again with the known length of the GRAFLEX clamp and edit the other parts in the perspective window until they line up with the photo. If you don't have a 3D program, you'll just have to wait for @Anakin Starkiller or someone else with one to figure it all out and hope they share the dimensions they came up with. Or download one of the free 3d programs and putz around with the dimensions yourself!

Here's one place to start if you accept the challenge... https://www.blender.org

Best of Luck to you if you give it a go!
 
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resin castings do shrink. depending on what gen this is it might be a hair shorter and smaller, or more.
 
Well sure Tom, it may have shrunk in the clamp section, but this is another one of those "until we have it in hand with a micrometer" situations. I think "very close" with known measurements as a starting point will have to suffice. Clearly it did shrink in the emitter section, but that can be replicated. But we have to start somewhere, ya know? ;)
 
Well sure Tom, it may have shrunk in the clamp section, but this is another one of those "until we have it in hand with a micrometer" situations. I think "very close" with known measurements as a starting point will have to suffice. Clearly it did shrink in the emitter section, but that can be replicated. But we have to start somewhere, ya know? ;)

yea,
i suppose scaling it up to a 2" clamp section is a good way to pull it off. I was concerned, because I have a couple castings of the hero, and after two generations, one of mine is almost a whole inch smaller in every dimension!
 
Tin silicone molds will shrink over their lifetime as well. Generally if you build up in layers or use a slower curing resin it won't shrink. It tends to happen only when you solid cast a fast curing resin such as Onyx that you see significant shrinkage.

If you wanted to mold and cast a piece with negligible shrinkage, you'd have to start with the Hero and use a platinum rubber.. and a much slower setting resin. Even then, there will be some change to the part.
 
I actually didn't make my copies. One is a mystery piece I'm still trying to find a pedigree for and the other was a corrected ILM pull. So, technically, that's three (the bent casting, the corrected pull and then this is a pull from that one)

the mystery one is slightly bigger than this 3rd Gen pull. and they're completely different resins...the mystery one is gray, almost green and the 3rd gen one is white!

anyway, this wired saber looks to be white resin too! a lot of the stunt/holster blasters on set were a yellow resin.
 
Hey @master jinn ! You're welcome, and yes!

Since we know the length (2") and width of the GRAFLEX clamp, all you have to do is print the image out on a 8.5 x 14 legal size piece of paper such that the clamp is printed 1:1 scale.

Then just take your measurements to the centerlines of the parts that are ellipses in the photos (due to optical distortion from perspective) and you'll have a rough idea of the length of the parts.

If you have a 3D program you can start again with the known length of the GRAFLEX clamp and edit the other parts in the perspective window until they line up with the photo. If you don't have a 3D program, you'll just have to wait for @Anakin Starkiller or someone else with one to figure it all out and hope they share the dimensions they came up with. Or download one of the free 3d programs and putz around with the dimensions yourself!

Here's one place to start if you accept the challenge... https://www.blender.org

if you want to get really picky - the ends will be distorted due to the perspective of the photo as well.

Best of Luck to you if you give it a go!


if you want to get really picky - the ends will be distorted due to the perspective of the photo as well.
 
if you want to get really picky - the ends will be distorted due to the perspective of the photo as well.

Exactly! It'd be something you could account for in a 3D rendering in the Perspective view.:D



If you guys used Task 18 from Smooth-On, shrinkage would be negligible at 0.0006", and it even has aluminum in it! Which would be cool because you would be able to polish it up like a solid metal piece.

https://www.smooth-on.com/tb/files/TASK_18_TB.pdf

Just thoroughly read and follow the safety instructions when using it! As you should with all resins. ;)



Smooth-On has several white resins with ranges of 0.001"-0.0024" shrinkage if you wanted to stick with white for accuracy to this prop and still have minimal distortion.
 
I've done a lot of casting over the years and am really surprised to hear of a nearly 1" shrinkage on lightsaber castings (not that I doubt it!). I guess inferior materials, time, and multiple generations can account for it. In any case the shrinkage should be even, so proportionately you can get very close with the 2" clamp. Also, since that's a 1st generation the shrinkage is probably pretty negligible.
 
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