The Definitive Peter Quill/Star-Lord Costume Thread

Darth Mule · Oct 3, 2015

PieSix said:
Got a question about the pants. I have looked through other threads and have not found what i was seeking. I understand that at the top of the back of his pants there is an adjustment tab of some sort. Does anyone have any pictures or a link to pictures of this tab? I have looked everywhere, even freeze framing the dvd but no luck.

As Jango Wes mentions below, it is exactly like that from what I can tell. His is pretty high up on the pant, near the waist. I'll try to remember to grab a shot of how I did mine when I nip in the waist this weekend (made em a little loose in the waist).

Jango Wes said:
I tried my hand at making the holster pads. Failed miserably. The super 77 glue would NOT adhere to the vinyl (can't find any leather stores over here and had to drive 20 miles to find this vinyl). It stuck foam to the inside of the vinyl just fine, but even with keeping the two halves sandwiched under heavy books, it wouldn't do it. Any recommendations on who would be the best to commission the pads?

- - - Updated - - -

I *think* it's like the adjustment strap on saddle pants, not 100% sure though.

What are you using vinyl for? I can see a plethora of issues you could run into depending on whether you're using it for the cover or the base. All of them boil down to vinyl being a bad idea.
I did mine by laying down a base of heavy felt. I did use super 77 and set the relief cuts, which I cut out of 6 oz veg tan leather scraps. Then I super 77-ed liberally over the whole thing and laid my lambskin (which I got for $36 in the perfect color from the fabric store down the road) over it and pushed it into the recesses with the smooth end of sharpie cap.

The final part requires sewing. The entire outside edge is bound at about 1/4" to hold it all together. Pretty easy to do. If you don't sew, it's not something you couldn't easily and cheaply get someone to do it for you.

Jango Wes · Oct 3, 2015

Darth Mule said:
What are you using vinyl for? I can see a plethora of issues you could run into depending on whether you're using it for the cover or the base. All of them boil down to vinyl being a bad idea.
I did mine by laying down a base of heavy felt. I did use super 77 and set the relief cuts, which I cut out of 6 oz veg tan leather scraps. Then I super 77-ed liberally over the whole thing and laid my lambskin (which I got for $36 in the perfect color from the fabric store down the road) over it and pushed it into the recesses with the smooth end of sharpie cap.

The final part requires sewing. The entire outside edge is bound at about 1/4" to hold it all together. Pretty easy to do. If you don't sew, it's not something you couldn't easily and cheaply get someone to do it for you.

i used the vinyl as the base of the pads. I cut out the relief parts in foam and Super 77ed them to the inside of the vinyl. Then sprayed both inside parts and stuck the together. Maybe the inside of the vinyl was coated in something? But if that was the case, the foam wouldn't have stuck.

I have some sewing skills, albeit, very little. Imagine a caveman painting a Picasso and you will understand. I think this is a project I'll have to hold off on till I can get back to the U.S., where I actually speak the language and can find everything I need. I figure a stop at the local Tandy will do the trick.

Darth Mule · Oct 4, 2015

Jango Wes said:
i used the vinyl as the base of the pads. I cut out the relief parts in foam and Super 77ed them to the inside of the vinyl. Then sprayed both inside parts and stuck the together. Maybe the inside of the vinyl was coated in something? But if that was the case, the foam wouldn't have stuck.

I have some sewing skills, albeit, very little. Imagine a caveman painting a Picasso and you will understand. I think this is a project I'll have to hold off on till I can get back to the U.S., where I actually speak the language and can find everything I need. I figure a stop at the local Tandy will do the trick.

Foam tends to repel most traditional adhesives. And some, like super 77, can actually eat the foam. Also, some vinyls will have a treatment on them that makes it hard to glue without a specialized adhesive. However, your biggest problem with this will be that even if you get it to stick, it isn't going to mold to the surface as well as real leather, because vinyl isn't very flexible.

So yeah. Tandy is a good bet.

Jango Wes · Oct 5, 2015

Darth Mule said:
Foam tends to repel most traditional adhesives. And some, like super 77, can actually eat the foam. Also, some vinyls will have a treatment on them that makes it hard to glue without a specialized adhesive. However, your biggest problem with this will be that even if you get it to stick, it isn't going to mold to the surface as well as real leather, because vinyl isn't very flexible.

So yeah. Tandy is a good bet.

I appreciate the input. I have to fly back to San Antonio, Texas this Thursday for a job interview on Friday and back to Germany on Saturday. If I have time, I'm going to try to fit a Tandy trip in there. For the felt, it's just regular felt like you buy in sheets at Hobby Lobby?

Darth Mule · Oct 6, 2015

Jango Wes said:
I appreciate the input. I have to fly back to San Antonio, Texas this Thursday for a job interview on Friday and back to Germany on Saturday. If I have time, I'm going to try to fit a Tandy trip in there. For the felt, it's just regular felt like you buy in sheets at Hobby Lobby?

Yessir!

Bogleo · Oct 6, 2015

Hey Darth Mule (or anyone else)

What do you think the best way would be to make patterns for the short jacket and pants for a beginner?

I read some people modified existing patterns. I looked through many of the patterns at Joanns with nothing coming even close.

PieSix · Oct 7, 2015

Bogleo said:
Hey @Darth Mule (or anyone else)

What do you think the best way would be to make patterns for the short jacket and pants for a beginner?

I read some people modified existing patterns. I looked through many of the patterns at Joanns with nothing coming even close.

What I'm doing for mine is using a pair of jeans that have the proper fit as a base, then modifying the existing pattern.

To get a base pattern without chopping up the donor jeans is really easy. You get some painters tape (the blue stuff) and cover each individual part of the pants one at a time, seam to seam. Then peel the entire tape mass off in one piece and set it onto some pattern paper, cut approx 1/2 inch out from the tape (for seam allowance) and viola...pattern piece. Then take a sharpie and draw out where all the additional panels and bits should go on each piece. You can then lay pattern paper on top of these pieces (since it is semi transparent) and make patterns for all the weird panels and additional pieces (just remember to add that 1/2 inch seam allowance). This isnt exactly a begginer method but is easy and your best bet for getting as close as possible to screen accurate, otherwise you are just going to be "ballpark similar" *if* you can manage to find a pattern for moto-cross pants or similar.

Bogleo · Oct 7, 2015

PieSix said:
What I'm doing for mine is using a pair of jeans that have the proper fit as a base, then modifying the existing pattern.

To get a base pattern without chopping up the donor jeans is really easy. You get some painters tape (the blue stuff) and cover each individual part of the pants one at a time, seam to seam. Then peel the entire tape mass off in one piece and set it onto some pattern paper, cut approx 1/2 inch out from the tape (for seam allowance) and viola...pattern piece. Then take a sharpie and draw out where all the additional panels and bits should go on each piece. You can then lay pattern paper on top of these pieces (since it is semi transparent) and make patterns for all the weird panels and additional pieces (just remember to add that 1/2 inch seam allowance). This isnt exactly a begginer method but is easy and your best bet for getting as close as possible to screen accurate, otherwise you are just going to be "ballpark similar" *if* you can manage to find a pattern for moto-cross pants or similar.

Thanks very much. Yup, I'm going for as screen accurate as possible. Couple questions.

Would the process with the tape work better on a mannequin, or laid flat?

What sort of pattern would you suggest as a base for the jacket?

PieSix · Oct 7, 2015

Bogleo said:
Thanks very much. Yup, I'm going for as screen accurate as possible. Couple questions.

Would the process with the tape work better on a mannequin, or laid flat?

What sort of pattern would you suggest as a base for the jacket?

Just lay them flat on a table, the tape will stick to the fabric and you can manipulate them around to make sure each piece is fully covered.

as for the jacket.... You could use one of the cheaper repros as a base I suppose, but it's not really financially viable, as redoing half or more is going to drive the end price well over $500 and at that point it makes far more economic sense to get one of Danny's jackets which require minimal modding.

Darth Mule · Oct 7, 2015

Bogleo said:
Hey @Darth Mule (or anyone else)

What do you think the best way would be to make patterns for the short jacket and pants for a beginner?

I read some people modified existing patterns. I looked through many of the patterns at Joanns with nothing coming even close.

PieSix said:
What I'm doing for mine is using a pair of jeans that have the proper fit as a base, then modifying the existing pattern.

To get a base pattern without chopping up the donor jeans is really easy. You get some painters tape (the blue stuff) and cover each individual part of the pants one at a time, seam to seam. Then peel the entire tape mass off in one piece and set it onto some pattern paper, cut approx 1/2 inch out from the tape (for seam allowance) and viola...pattern piece. Then take a sharpie and draw out where all the additional panels and bits should go on each piece. You can then lay pattern paper on top of these pieces (since it is semi transparent) and make patterns for all the weird panels and additional pieces (just remember to add that 1/2 inch seam allowance). This isnt exactly a begginer method but is easy and your best bet for getting as close as possible to screen accurate, otherwise you are just going to be "ballpark similar" *if* you can manage to find a pattern for moto-cross pants or similar.

PieSix said:
Just lay them flat on a table, the tape will stick to the fabric and you can manipulate them around to make sure each piece is fully covered.

as for the jacket.... You could use one of the cheaper repros as a base I suppose, but it's not really financially viable, as redoing half or more is going to drive the end price well over $500 and at that point it makes far more economic sense to get one of Danny's jackets which require minimal modding.

Pretty much everything piesix said will work. Personally,I used a pair that I didn't mind destroying, and just stood in the mirror and drew the lines on my pants with a sharpie. Labelled everything so I knew where it would go back together. Then chopped it up to make the pattern pieces. Remember to add the seam allowances.

For the jacket, I started with a basic body block and drafted to my measures. I mocked it up out of muslin, and drew the lines in much like the pants. Here's a tutorial I found on a quick google.
https://opensourcestitches.wordpress.com/2011/02/17/pattern-drafting-101-the-mens-shirt-block/

Pie pointed out that using a store bought jacket as a base would be cost prohibitive... I would point out that even starting from scratch is pretty costly. I would say I put at least as much money into development as the cost of one of Danny's jackets. Between the materials, greeblies, screenprint supplies and gas, I'm sure I blew $500 easy.

Bogleo · Oct 7, 2015

Thank you both! :thumbsup

I should have been more clear, I plan to do it all from scratch, I just couldn't find a good pattern to start with for the jacket. Thanks for the link!

undeadmith · Oct 8, 2015

so this is my progress on the orb:

3D printed parts in PA (its a powder and its laserd so that the powder reacts and glues together verry strong and workable material)

so one half of the sphere is 3 parts an outer sphere an inner ring and and inner sphere
i am going to keep the orb closed by magnets witch are inbeded in the sphere behind the inner ring in the sides of the outer sphere as you can see here

:

here you can see a magnet sticking on to its brother wich is on the other side of the inner ring

and this is on half of the orb with the inner sphere painted and the outer sphere and ring still needs paint but i am going to paint that in one go once everything is glued into place

i am still not sure about the magnets that i have

i've got disc magnets of 4mm diameter and a height of 1,5mm ( i like them because they are so small but they only have a strength of 350 grams
i also have cube magnets of 5mm and they have a strength of 1kg but i'm afraid thats a bit much
i will be using 3 magnets on every side of the sphere with 2 poles faceing the same way and 1 with its poles in the other way so that the sphere can only close in one way

Indy Magnoli · Oct 11, 2015

Working on some gloves... http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=248278

Crimson King · Oct 12, 2015

I feel I need to bring up a rather daunting quandary which has been upsetting me for quite a few days now.

It is in regards to the custom zipper needed for the standard Quill jacket. You can find them by browsing and, at last, I had managed to snag one.

While it certainly has visual appeal, I cannot say the same regarding its actual functionality. It is very stiff, somewhat thick even, metal links that are nigh impossible to zip unless all conditions are met flawlessly.

Whether it be by dumb luck or skill, I do get it in place and manage to zip it. Hardly still functional as the traditional zipper by any means, however.

And then I needed to alter more of the jacket, which required removal and now, for whatever reason, no matter how or what I do, I cannot recreate my original accomplishment. The teeth constantly run over one another, even when off the jacket itself.
I do not believe it has been damaged in any way, nor am I doing anything drastically different than the first time. The only thing I can think of is that I brought them in just a tad further (as is with the original jacket), so I hardly think that should cause such radical misalignment. It has become the bane of my existence.

Functionality wise, I can't say I'm a fan.

Does anyone have advice which will aid me?

Soulinertia · Oct 12, 2015

Are you sure you got the right zipper manf?

Crimson King · Oct 12, 2015

Soulinertia said:
Are you sure you got the right zipper manf?

I got it on Ebay, I assume from someone also on here months ago, nor is it that from Chinese site that was posted. It looks the same as what everyone else has that I've seen.

In any case, just from how thick the links are, it's nowhere near as versatile as a normal zipper. I must have it crooked. I'm going to try and upload a picture very soon to elaborate my problem with it.

EDIT: Pic added.

No matter how much I realign, it fastens like this instead. Incorrectly. I have measured and tried time after time, tried to straighten out the links, align them more to one another, it's always this. It worked before. I don't get why it won't fasten correctly any longer. It seems the zipper points are bending upwards with the zip, rather than inside the hole, as intended.

Electronidus · Oct 12, 2015

hey so ive got a starlord helmet however i need a way to secure to my head. since it doesnt work like a normal helmet because the top is gone i was wonder how to do it. any help would be appreciated!

Jango Wes · Oct 13, 2015

Electronidus said:
hey so ive got a starlord helmet however i need a way to secure to my head. since it doesnt work like a normal helmet because the top is gone i was wonder how to do it. any help would be appreciated!

Maybe it's just because I have a big head... I used magnets to attach the two halves together and it seems to fit quite well, with very little movement. You can try using foam on the inside to help get a better fit.

GuardianGryphon · Oct 13, 2015

I don't know how useful this will be, but here it is anyhow:

I found these for $1.50 at my local Lowe's while looking for plumbing components to build my boot rockets. They light up when you push the little button in the center; They were originally designed as keyring flashlight carabiners, bt they're almost precisely the right size and shape for the boot rocket controls.

I figure with either duct tape, silver painted cut balsa wood inserts, or modeling clay, one could fill in the gap in the carabiner, and have a pretty good instant rocket control solution.

I intend to cap off the part of the light that points outwards, and do some work on the faceplate as well (maybe color it somehow if I'm feeling especially adventurous), but for $1.50 apiece I thought they made a decent alternative to the 3D-Printed solutions, if you're willing to sacrifice a little accuracy in exchange for cheap good-looking durability.

ches · Oct 14, 2015

Have you lubricated the zipper? Google sewing stores for zipper cleaner/lubricants. Most of your local sewing stores sell them. Best stuff around to making stubborn zippers work.

The Definitive Peter Quill/Star-Lord Costume Thread

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