Nike Mag V2 Mod Discussion (Page 58 Shopping List)

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Because my Heel Cup is now larger than all other V2 cups, I needed to re-do my letters. The first 2 sets were basically cast off the V2 Heel Cup and so they were essentially the same size. My mold seemed to suggest that they were larger when laid out flat but as soon they were glued to the shoes, they were back to the original size.

So I made myself a new template from this one and modified it in SketchUp.
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It now looks like this.
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I then mixed and poured (after vacuuming of course) white and aqua rubber over the respective parts, and tonight, cut them out and attached them to the shoes.

Here is my shoe a few days ago (top) and tonight (bottom). The tape has since been removed.
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Does anyone want to comment on the colours? This is my chart that I have been basing my shoes on.
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I just started one my last personal pairs. I have one more unmodded pair after these. I still think cutting the toe and regluing it is the way to go.

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If airairs shoes come to be, with cavx's clear clear soles, cloneprops' ankle buckles, popping out the ankle buckle, repainting the midsoles, and adding electronics, you will have about a 90% replica.
 
Thank you. I wonder what your clear soles would look like on my mods with the EL and everything...

I think they would look pretty special. Would you want clear or blue tint?

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popping out the ankle buckle

Did you mean Heel Cup? The only thing wrong with popping out the heel cup is that sometime the factory wiring is glued so strong it tears the rubber.

The upper is pretty close. The cuff is over sized as is the SWOOSH and laces, but yeah pretty close.
 
I think they would look pretty special. Would you want clear or blue tint?

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Did you mean Heel Cup? The only thing wrong with popping out the heel cup is that sometime the factory wiring is glued so strong it tears the rubber.

The upper is pretty close. The cuff is over sized as is the SWOOSH and laces, but yeah pretty close.
Oops. That should have been bubble. Not buckle. And separating that part of the heel cup to remove from the upper isn't too hard. A hairdryer or heat gun works very well. Then just separate the bubble from it, cut off the bordering clear rubber, and glue back in but sticking out further. I came up with the idea in 2013, but it never really caught on. Jedifyfe applied it slendidly though.

965c7f63-e9b4-4b0d-ba2d-ba2e4d75b829.jpg~320x480


Here are my original pictures.
DSC00207_zps28fb45dd.jpg

DSC00209_zps8be45872.jpg

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Oops. That should have been bubble. Not buckle. And separating that part of the heel cup to remove from the upper isn't too hard. A hairdryer or heat gun works very well. Then just separate the bubble from it, cut off the bordering clear rubber, and glue back in but sticking out further. I came up with the idea in 2013, but it never really caught on. Jedifyfe applied it slendidly though.

http://rsmg.pbsrc.com/albums/v471/jedifyfe/965c7f63-e9b4-4b0d-ba2d-ba2e4d75b829.jpg~320x480

Here are my original pictures.
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t444/Replicator5/DSC00207_zps28fb45dd.jpg
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t444/Replicator5/DSC00209_zps8be45872.jpg
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t444/Replicator5/DSC00208_zps66a39166.jpg
I did the led bubble mod on my hc mags
 

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@Jedifyfe I will run a test on some clear this week and post the results.

@MitasTouch I was actually referring the Heel Cup and where it joins into the Mid-Sole. When I separated mine, one was easy and the other had the wires glued on to the inside. I could see this until it started to tear the rubber.

Separating the sides is a lot easier - a little too easy on some shoes.
 
I just started one my last personal pairs. I have one more unmodded pair after these. I still think cutting the toe and regluing it is the way to go.

http://www.therpf.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=439343&stc=1[URL]http://www.therpf.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=439344&stc=1http://www.therpf.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=439345&stc=1[/URL]

Amazing work as always. You're definitely right, the cut and glue method is really the best way to get a great toe like that.

Would really love to see these with Cavx's clear soles compared to your RD's, probably would be a pretty close match.
 
Amazing work as always. You're definitely right, the cut and glue method is really the best way to get a great toe like that.

Would really love to see these with Cavx's clear soles compared to your RD's, probably would be a pretty close match.


Thank you. It would be neat to put a good casting of Cavx's soles on my shoes.
 
Thank you. It would be neat to put a good casting of Cavx's soles on my shoes.

And new molds to make good castings are coming :)

So I have done my research as to why there were little pimples appearing on the surface which looked like bubbles.

So the front oval part is fine.

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This is one half of a two part mold and in the end, it is just as easy to pour this one open backed so long as the bench is level in x.y, it is all good.

The rear part however will need new molds and this why..

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You can see the small holes that have formed on the negative of the waffle. These were bubbles in the silicon during mixing that didn't pop and stayed on the surface of the part I was molding. Once the vacuumed clear is poured in, it will find every nook and cranny there is and fill them. The result is pimples on the surface which ruins the casts.

I now have new silicone that can be vacuumed to get rid of all the air bubbles. It has a pot life of about an hour Vs the 6 min of this pink stuff, so I can leave under vacuum for good 10 min and and not have to worry about it going into gel state. The trick is better plan my molds so that they get a wall of about 1/2" around all the details. My last molds had walls upto and 1.5" and when you flex them to eject the part, there is only so much flex before something tears. This is why I need to start again. It was an expensive learning exercise (about 6x the cost of the MAG shoes) and why I am taking my time now.
 

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And new molds to make good castings are coming :)

So I have done my research as to why there were little pimples appearing on the surface which looked like bubbles.

So the front oval part is fine.

http://www.therpf.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=440196&d=1424214118

This is one half of a two part mold and in the end, it is just as easy to pour this one open backed so long as the bench is level in x.y, it is all good.

The rear part however will need new molds and this why..

http://www.therpf.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=440197&ed=1424214118

You can see the small holes that have formed on the negative of the waffle. These were bubbles in the silicon during mixing that didn't pop and stayed on the surface of the part I was molding. Once the vacuumed clear is poured in, it will find every nook and cranny there is and fill them. The result is pimples on the surface which ruins the casts.

I now have new silicone that can be vacuumed to get rid of all the air bubbles. It has a pot life of about an hour Vs the 6 min of this pink stuff, so I can leave under vacuum for good 10 min and and not have to worry about it going into gel state. The trick is better plan my molds so that they get a wall of about 1/2" around all the details. My last molds had walls upto and 1.5" and when you flex them to eject the part, there is only so much flex before something tears. This is why I need to start again. It was an expensive learning exercise (about 6x the cost of the MAG shoes) and why I am taking my time now.

This is exciting stuff! Awesome to see your dedication to this.

Can't wait to see the results.
 
Thank you. I wish I had this done by now.

I'm sure you'll get it right man.

Update on my own project, my shoes are now basically the same, as in.....the electronics are broken in both/due to be fully replaced as soon as my new batteries arrive but the tongues are now both modded, ribbings and foam removed and the mid sole has been shaped using a dremel. Am therefore ready to paint my mid sole fully and do the splatter.

Big news is that the 'clear blue' paint I ordered arrived and I dived straight into painting my soles yesterday evening...


20150217_172606.jpg

Ok so maybe this was a little bit more potent than I expected, the effect is quite dramatic! I know its way more blue than the RDs and that maybe I should've thought of a way to dilute the paint to make it more of a subtle blue but overall I'm kinda pleased. They look pretty cool and the EL still shines through really well due to it being clear paint.

20150217_220429.jpg

Main things are that they are no longer yellow, it was less messy than rit dye and only required one coat to have a very good effect. It could obviously be thinned to make it less blue, and I would like to see the effect it has on brand new soles that hadn't experienced any yellowing at all.

Now its just a case of seeing how well they hold up to wearing and general use.

Next up is the replacement ribbings, then mid sole paint.
 
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I did the toe slim mod, or tried to on one shoe of my size 11 pair and it's almost 100% what I wanted in profile, it has a sock type look like in the fillem. The edge of the midsole is very tough to glue to the fabric.

I followed Jedifyfe's videos and I must have missed a step or something because I honestly can't figure out a solid way of gluing the very end. I stretched the fabric carefully as I glued side by side, slowly. It's as though the rubber needs to be curved up slightly more so that the edge will bond directly to the fabric. I'm considering using a heat gun and making the tiny millimetres worth of bend in the edge to close the gap. Too drastic?

Anyone have a better idea?
 
@rhodrijen did you dremil the heel cups? Those blue soles look cool. Do they make that paint in a white?

Yeah, I really got into the dremiling...ended up shaping the whole heel cup, I've ordered the markpoon decals to replace the lettering though. So it's all good.

They do the paint in loads of colours, including white and a few other clear colours like red or yellow. Pretty cool for maybe doing some custom coloured mag.

Tamiya XF2 is a matt white.
 
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