Rey - Star Wars: The Force Awakens Build (open for everyone!)

kristen jones said:
If you do, I'd be all over the two main bottles! I have them, but they are undersized. I'd love to buy them if you make them available. Also, I'd like to particularly compliment you on your goggles! Speaking as one who has made over 50 pairs, I still keep looking at yours and thinking what I could have done to make mine look more like yours. Top Job! :-D
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Wow, Thank you Kristen!!! After having seen a pair of your awesome goggles in person, that's quite the compliment! I just remember thinking "never again" the entire time I was making them, I have no idea how you managed 50! :eek (PM sent about the printed bottles)

Goldhawk said:
I would be interested in a 3-D print of the bottles. They look great! Do you think it would be possible to make them functional or not?
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Great! I've shot you a PM about the bottle/greeblie kit.

FastballSpecial said:
Wow they look great! Are you guys going to Celebration in Orlando ?
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Yes! But not BB-8 unfortunately :( I'm not sure how I would fly with a 40lb ball full of lead shot and explosive batteries.

Kendra said:
What dye did you used for the wrap-dress ? It looks exactly like the real costume, really impressive.
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Thank you!! I used the forum recommended viscose blend and fabric dyes (6A Ecru & 75 Safari Gray). I used the recommended dye instructions, I weighed my fabric using a fishing scale and adjusted all the measurements accordingly. I mixed in both the Ecru & Safari Gray dyes 50/50 . As recommended (this thread rocks), I washed the fabric on Hot first before dyeing. and cut the fabric in half down the middle so it was about 18" wide. I broomstick pleated mine after dying. I just got it wet, hand bunched the pleats at one end of the fabric and then tightly wrapped it around a long 1" dowel and let it dry in the sun.
 
I wanted to swing back to this thread and thank everyone for sharing all of their findings! I made a quick version of this Rey for the movie release, and I upgraded a few parts and brought her to Dragon*Con this year. I think I'm the most proud of the staff-- it got me started on 3d modeling and now I'm hooked! I wouldn't have approached this costume without support from TheRPF. Reference images, fabric suggestions, dye colors, patterns, WW2 things to find on eBay-- all of it was achievable thanks to everyone sharing their expertise!

Here is an album from my shoot! http://www.therpf.com/album.php?albumid=6242

If you're on the facebook, this is my page: facebook.com/DetentenCosplay
Photos by Siffy from The Sisters Mischief https://www.facebook.com/TheSistersMischief/
Quarterstaff files available at RUMCo.Etsy.com


Thanks again RPF Community, y'all are the greatest :)



IMG_6557.pngIMG_6572.pngIMG_6580.pngIMG_6587.pngIMG_6583.pngIMG_6594.pngrey.png
 
Unfated said:
Lastly I used rusolium matte clear coat, but it turned
everything into a wash grey with only a hint of the rust. So I had to restart the folk art distressing all over.
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I used Kryolan clear coat and it came out chalky gray, as well. I read the can (you know, like Volpin warns you to do BEFORE spraying it on your prop....) and it's the result of high humidity. Try again on a cooler, less humid day (the can will have a target %). It also helps to leave the can outside for several hours so that it's the same temperature as the environment. I ended up not having time to wait for a less humid day, so I'll have to swing back around to sealing my staff up!

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SmokinBirdie425 said:
By the time we got to the stage where you'd rinse and rewash the fabric, the cut ends were fraying. Paranoid, I took the long road and rewashed by hand, and let it air dry. However, the pic below you see is the final result.
What can I do to prevent this from worsening during wear, and how can I prevent this from happening during the wash/dye/dry process in the future???
Click to expand...

You can also try cutting the fabric with pinking shears. The criss-cross pattern of the blades is to help prevent fraying without having to finish the edges of the fabric--generally, to help keep pieces intact while you're trying to sew them together.

https://smile.amazon.com/Fiskars-8-Inch-Pinking-Shears/dp/B000AXI856/
 
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detenten said:
I used Kryolan clear coat and it came out chalky gray, as well. I read the can (you know, like Volpin warns you to do BEFORE spraying it on your prop....) and it's the result of high humidity. Try again on a cooler, less humid day (the can will have a target %). It also helps to leave the can outside for several hours so that it's the same temperature as the environment. I ended up not having time to wait for a less humid day, so I'll have to swing back around to sealing my staff up!

- - - Updated - - -



You can also try cutting the fabric with pinking shears. The criss-cross pattern of the blades is to help prevent fraying without having to finish the edges of the fabric--generally, to help keep pieces intact while you're trying to sew them together.

https://smile.amazon.com/Fiskars-8-Inch-Pinking-Shears/dp/B000AXI856/
Click to expand...

My Rey staff turned out nicely, but I lost some of the texture and the second paint job was not quite as nice as the first. Sorry for the
phone photos.
IMG_0338.jpgIMG_0336.jpg
 
Tea said:
Thank you!! I used the forum recommended viscose blend and fabric dyes (6A Ecru & 75 Safari Gray). I used the recommended dye instructions, I weighed my fabric using a fishing scale and adjusted all the measurements accordingly. I mixed in both the Ecru & Safari Gray dyes 50/50 . As recommended (this thread rocks), I washed the fabric on Hot first before dyeing. and cut the fabric in half down the middle so it was about 18" wide. I broomstick pleated mine after dying. I just got it wet, hand bunched the pleats at one end of the fabric and then tightly wrapped it around a long 1" dowel and let it dry in the sun.
Click to expand...

That's amazing ! Thank you, I was thinking about redoing my wrap dress again. I don't like it, it has a purple tone sometimes and the crinkles are not really apparent. I'll try your technique.
 
Tea said:
Wow, Thank you Kristen!!! After having seen a pair of your awesome goggles in person, that's quite the compliment! I just remember thinking "never again" the entire time I was making them, I have no idea how you managed 50! :eek (PM sent about the printed bottles)


Great! I've shot you a PM about the bottle/greeblie kit.


Yes! But not BB-8 unfortunately :( I'm not sure how I would fly with a 40lb ball full of lead shot and explosive batteries.


Thank you!! I used the forum recommended viscose blend and fabric dyes (6A Ecru & 75 Safari Gray). I used the recommended dye instructions, I weighed my fabric using a fishing scale and adjusted all the measurements accordingly. I mixed in both the Ecru & Safari Gray dyes 50/50 . As recommended (this thread rocks), I washed the fabric on Hot first before dyeing. and cut the fabric in half down the middle so it was about 18" wide. I broomstick pleated mine after dying. I just got it wet, hand bunched the pleats at one end of the fabric and then tightly wrapped it around a long 1" dowel and let it dry in the sun.
Click to expand...

I was wondering how to best pleat it. Thank you!
A question for the more experienced people here. How well will the dye stay? If my wrap dress gets wet or if I have to wash it.
 
Goldhawk said:
How well will the dye stay? If my wrap dress gets wet or if I have to wash it.
Click to expand...

If you follow the dyeing instructions, your colors should be pretty washfast. ALWAYS wash your clothes after dyeing/rinsing; I usually wash mine twice to make sure there's no more residual bleeding. As a safety precaution, though, I usually do wash my hand-dyed clothes separately from anything else, and always on cold/gentle.
 
Man, it's been months since I've thought about this costume and I'm soooo many pages behind. I'm honestly kind of overwhelmed to jump back into it. It doesn't help that my fabric (over $100 worth) from Dharma got lost, and I've just been feeling incredibly discouraged ever since. (I'm totally blaming it on UPS, but they won't do anything about it.) Guess it's time to place another order and get started on this! I'm eager to have another RL costume and I've got almost everything I need for full scavenger minus ALL fabric, belt, and backpack, so I really have no excuse not to work on it. Need to get over this slump!
 
detenten said:
If you follow the dyeing instructions, your colors should be pretty washfast. ALWAYS wash your clothes after dyeing/rinsing; I usually wash mine twice to make sure there's no more residual bleeding. As a safety precaution, though, I usually do wash my hand-dyed clothes separately from anything else, and always on cold/gentle.
Click to expand...
I handwashed my wrap dress, and threw it in the dryer on medium. The wash water turned the color of very strong tea, but other than that the color of the fabric seems to be relatively unchanged, so yes for that!

One more dye question...what did everyone do with the shirt, those of you who used the dharma fabric? Dye, weathering, I'm curious. The shirt doesn't seem to be the natural color the fabric is now, so let the experiences flow! This is totally my first cosplay and I want it to be GOOD, so I'm looking for all the advice I can get!
 
What fabrics would be a good equivalent for the head wrap? I'm going to order new fabric to re-make the body wraps and pants, to get more screen accurate, but the head wrap fabric is out of stock right now. Does Dharma have a good equivalent or should I look around locally?

Also, goggles question...Do you guys shape your goggles or no? I want to use 8ounce leather as my base, but I want to check and see if I should wet shape it before I start building it.
 
If anyone is working on a Rey staff at present I have some extra strap hardware if anyone wants them, I found you can't buy two or one of anything
theses days. You buy packs of something. I have four sets of lobster claws and four fixed bar buckles. Two of the sets have lobster claws that are 1.25"
and two that are 1.5". I believe the 1.5" wide are the correct size, but the 1.25" look just as nice to my eye. You can see in the pictures the difference.
I found the correct D-rings at Home Depot for a 98¢ each. At least those you can buy one of.

IMG_0342.JPGIMG_0343.JPGIMG_0344.JPG
 
kandell said:
What fabrics would be a good equivalent for the head wrap? I'm going to order new fabric to re-make the body wraps and pants, to get more screen accurate, but the head wrap fabric is out of stock right now. Does Dharma have a good equivalent or should I look around locally?

Also, goggles question...Do you guys shape your goggles or no? I want to use 8ounce leather as my base, but I want to check and see if I should wet shape it before I start building it.
Click to expand...
I'm waiting on the dharma fabric too. Their website says it should be back in stock about September 30, so I'm checking every day. That's really the fabric I want.

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kristen jones said:
I dyed the tunic with RIT taupe...but left it in only a very short time. I didn't want it getting too dark. After dyeing and drying, I airbrushed "dirt' around the seams and such to give it a grubby look.
Click to expand...
Airbrush....that's what I need :(
 
@Goldhawk

i can't wait to follow ur build. Any chance of creating a separate build thread? Just saying these 120 page threads are tough to filter thru.

Anyone have are a set of plans for this backpack.
 
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