Various OT lightsaber WannaWanga parts (new ALU MPP shroud)

redbutton just put a clamp cover on his TFA graflex he's working on and it looks spectacular. I also have your lever and bubble strip in my newly finished 1st run V2 from Dan. excellent stuff. I even plugged your website to a 14 year old kid at the museum I work at who wanted to build his own stuff!
 
redbutton just put a clamp cover on his TFA graflex he's working on and it looks spectacular. I also have your lever and bubble strip in my newly finished 1st run V2 from Dan. excellent stuff. I even plugged your website to a 14 year old kid at the museum I work at who wanted to build his own stuff!

Haha! Thanks man!
 
I am actually concerned about the Tfa rivets... Just helped him pop rivets with and they all broke in the wrong places, bent and some weren't even pulled up all the way. Have you gotten any other bad batches?
 
I am actually concerned about the Tfa rivets... Just helped him pop rivets with and they all broke in the wrong places, bent and some weren't even pulled up all the way. Have you gotten any other bad batches?

That's the first time I heard of that. Didn't have that complaint before. Very strange. I just tried a few myself and they popped alright. Please send me an email and let's see if I can help.
 
I recently bought a clamp from KR Sabers for my KR/89 sabers graflex. It's a blank clamp but I was wanting a little more accuracy to TFA/TLJ.

Just wondering has anyone tried out Roy's clamp cover out on an 89/kr clamp yet?
 
I recently bought a clamp from KR Sabers for my KR/89 sabers graflex. It's a blank clamp but I was wanting a little more accuracy to TFA/TLJ.

Just wondering has anyone tried out Roy's clamp cover out on an 89/kr clamp yet?

Do you have a Romans near by? If it works on a Romans it should work on a 89sabers

I just threw a old clamp cover I had laying around on a graflex 2.0 and it seams to work fine, alittle filing on the bend tabs to tuck the clamp cover up higher and it worked fine


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Do you have a Romans near by? If it works on a Romans it should work on a 89sabers

I just threw a old clamp cover I had laying around on a graflex 2.0 and it seams to work fine, alittle filing on the bend tabs to tuck the clamp cover up higher and it worked fine

Unfortunately, my clamp cover doesn't fit well with a 89sabers clamp replica, because the 89sabers clamp (together with the body parts) are smaller than a vintage. Therefore the cover is too loose and it's really hard to make it fit.
 
Can anyone recommend a special adhensive / epoxy for Roy‘s T-tracks?
I am building a Vintage TFA using mostly his parts...
Trying my „standard“ 2K epoxy I wasn’t able to achieve a permanent bond between Graflex and the T-tracks.
If someone knows which kind of plastics the tracks are made of, I could try a specialized glue...
As I don‘t want to ruin my Vintage with multiple tries, any advice would be appreciated! :)
 
Can anyone recommend a special adhensive / epoxy for Roy‘s T-tracks?
I am building a Vintage TFA using mostly his parts...
Trying my „standard“ 2K epoxy I wasn’t able to achieve a permanent bond between Graflex and the T-tracks.
If someone knows which kind of plastics the tracks are made of, I could try a specialized glue...
As I don‘t want to ruin my Vintage with multiple tries, any advice would be appreciated! :)

I always use to use 2 part epoxy, and dyed it with black chalk. This was messy, and when I added too much in areas you could always see it, made for a pain to clean up

I was turned on to e6000. It’s a strong silicone glue, smells horrible, but holds amazingly!!

And if it oozes out in a area you can see. Wait until it gets hard and you can cut it with a razor knife

A lot of the time I can remove the excess with just rubbing my finger on it

Never had a grip fall off with e6000, and I swear by it


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I'm a big fan of 2 part epoxy. Make sure that you prep the metal surface by wiping it down with rubbing alcohol or, even better, naptha, and make sure that you rough up the under side of the t track with some sand paper. If any epoxy oozes out, you can wipe it up with an alcohol-dampened paper towel. If you mess up or want to redo the t track for whatever reason, put the saber in the freezer for a few minutes and you can snap the grips off. Any excess epoxy can be removed with vinegar. I've used this method to swap t tracks on numerous sabers (my parks MPP has had no fewer than 4 different sets of grips on it). Anytime I've had a grip pop off, it was because of me not mixing the epoxy enough or not prepping the surfaces (due to impatience/laziness). I can't say how well epoxy stands up to dueling, but for regular handling, epoxy is my choice.

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I've had to use super glue to keep T-track in place when drilling and installing screws or rivets. Epoxy always failed.

E-6000 is my favorite but it takes a LONG time to set up. almost a few hours, so doing all 6 track in one day is pushing it
 
I've had to use super glue to keep T-track in place when drilling and installing screws or rivets. Epoxy always failed.

E-6000 is my favorite but it takes a LONG time to set up. almost a few hours, so doing all 6 track in one day is pushing it

When I use e6000 I do 1 grip a night, and I can’t let it stay in my basement it’s too cold


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