Anovos Stormtrooper.... thoughts?

I've started trimming and one of my shoulder bells has been vac formed inside out,
I needed to take the protective film off the inside first or it wouldn't separate after scoring and folding.
Although it did take a moment before I realised what was going on,
being cleverer than a real stormtrooper I figured it out :)
 
Half way there
 

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Gphalen said:
$1850 for TK was the cheapest I have seen around. 1800 for unfinished FN from Anovos.
Click to expand...
\
.

Well, 8 months later, kit in hand, I don't feel hosed at all :) Particularly at tier 1 pricing, and getting in before the CAD collapsed against the USD? This was a freaking STEAL. Now, serious assembly question - in scoring the neck of the chest plate, I slipped slightly with my exacto and I think may have at least lightly scored into the chest piece proper (not sure if if did any damage past the protective plastic). If there is a significant scratch there, will polishing with something like Novus take it out, or is there another way to fill it without making a giant mess?
.
Secondly, the bucket - got some more quality time with it last night, and more importantly, got to look at it from a bit of a distance, which shows me the shape I thought I was seeing was just because I was too close; YAY! No need to pull the bucket apart! I would however like to trim the eyes a little bit (anyone post some nice closeups of what they've done there? please please please!) to get rid of the flimsiest part of the plastic, and more importantly, want to REINFORCE the thing from the inside to give it some more weight and rigidity (may also, sometime down the road, want to put in fans and a voice changer with static burst...but that's more cash than I can spend right now). Does anyone have any opinions on what's the best choice between the Plastidip-with-cheesecloth method or fiberglass-resin method or fiberglass-resin-with-Bondo methods?
 
cyberpyrot said:
Half way there
Click to expand...



Awesome.

I have my mannequin and cheap black suit on the way.

So far I have only managed 1/2 of a lower leg but even though I use score and snap all the time for regular plastic on other projects I am not liking it for this so I am just gonna use the dremel. It works better for me.



Tom
 
Timmythekid said:
\
.

Well, 8 months later, kit in hand, I don't feel hosed at all :) Particularly at tier 1 pricing, and getting in before the CAD collapsed against the USD? This was a freaking STEAL. Now, serious assembly question - in scoring the neck of the chest plate, I slipped slightly with my exacto and I think may have at least lightly scored into the chest piece proper (not sure if if did any damage past the protective plastic). If there is a significant scratch there, will polishing with something like Novus take it out, or is there another way to fill it without making a giant mess?
.
Secondly, the bucket - got some more quality time with it last night, and more importantly, got to look at it from a bit of a distance, which shows me the shape I thought I was seeing was just because I was too close; YAY! No need to pull the bucket apart! I would however like to trim the eyes a little bit (anyone post some nice closeups of what they've done there? please please please!) to get rid of the flimsiest part of the plastic, and more importantly, want to REINFORCE the thing from the inside to give it some more weight and rigidity (may also, sometime down the road, want to put in fans and a voice changer with static burst...but that's more cash than I can spend right now). Does anyone have any opinions on what's the best choice between the Plastidip-with-cheesecloth method or fiberglass-resin method or fiberglass-resin-with-Bondo methods?
Click to expand...
Plastidip and cheesecloth hands down!!! At least you can take it off if you want.
 
Timmythekid said:
I would however like to trim the eyes a little bit (anyone post some nice closeups of what they've done there? please please please!)
Click to expand...

Dremel, needle file, fine sandpaper.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1454798385.388516.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1454798394.520351.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1454798402.520476.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1454798411.802637.jpg

I plan on using the plastidip/cheesecloth method for he interior mainly because it is cheap and easy. I thought about fiberglassing, but I have no experience with it and decided it would add too much weight.
 
DBoz said:
Dremel, needle file, fine sandpaper.

View attachment 587938
View attachment 587939
View attachment 587940
View attachment 587941

I plan on using the plastidip/cheesecloth method for he interior mainly because it is cheap and easy. I thought about fiberglassing, but I have no experience with it and decided it would add too much weight.
Click to expand...

Awesome! Thanks for those - really want to clean the eyes up, but a little nervous about trying to figure out what has to go without destroying the appropriate wonkiness of the sculpt.
 
Just been looking at the contents of the Anovos BBB that came a couple of days ago. Has anyone else received a shoulder bell like this -

IMAG0982.jpg


IMAG0985.jpg


The raised extra plastic has gone over the trim line...Yet again poor quality control.


I also have a couple of other pieces with some poor forming that will need some attention before assembly...I don't seem to have much luck buying from Anovos.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
trooper1975 said:
Just been looking at the contents of the Anovos BBB that came a couple of days ago. Has anyone else received a shoulder bell like this -


The raised extra plastic has gone over the trim line...Yet again poor quality control.


I also have a couple of other pieces with some poor forming that will need some attention before assembly...I don't seem to have much luck buying from Anovos.
Click to expand...
You're definitely in the minority. That's a clear case for a replacement part, though. Send support an email with the subject line "TK KIT ISSUE" and I'm sure they'll get the ball rolling on a replacement part. Fortunately that part shouldn't hold up the rest of the build...
 
Last edited by a moderator:
As I'm moving through the rough trim on all my parts, just wanted ask again - I've got a couple of spots where the blade went off course while scoring, and I think I've scratched the piece (haven't removed the protective plastic yet though). What's the best way to fix minor scratches? Unfortunately there's also one or two spots where a bit more plastic started to come away from the piece than I wanted, leaving slivers hanging on that I'm hoping to somehow weld back together. I've seen references to ABS paste, or to somehow melting down the offcuts to make a repair material - anyone have links to that process?
 
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