Vader MPP lightsabers details and specifications

Great thread! Would it be possible to label the different versions in the pics? It would help keep it all straight.
Many thanks for spending your time on this informational post.

If you check the photos, you will see I added which is which.
if not written directly on picture, it's added as a description .
 
As as you can see, the diameter of my clamp is slightly smaller than the Parks replica... Not a lot smaller, but enough that I couldn't fit the Parks sleeve underneath it and still close the clamp on the flash tube.

You'll also note that the side bars on the Parks replica are rounded on the ends and square on the side while the ones on my real clamp are trapezoid shaped both on the side and on the ends...

This clamp is probably a wide opening one, it's not smaller, it just has a larger activator box section, I don't know why, but it's probably for a different camera holder.
I have seen this kind of detail, described on message #6, sadly I didn't take the shot with same angle as you did, but I found similar differences between two real MPP clamps.
It will be a bit ennoying for you to fit the bubble strip with accurate finish, however if you use a real exactra board and bubble strip, you can place the plastic sleeve under the clamp and cut the green board a bit wider so it will fit the clamp once closed.
You won't have to mill the crystal bubble strip as you would have to do on a narrow opening clamp.

About the bars profile, I saw ronded ones on real clamps, but these one had the back machined creating a sharp angle, and a aluminum color you can see them on message #6
 

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It will be a bit ennoying for you to fit the bubble strip with accurate finish, however if you use a real exactra board and bubble strip, you can place the plastic sleeve under the clamp and cut the green board a bit wider so it will fit the clamp once closed.
You won't have to mill the crystal bubble strip as you would have to do on a narrow opening clamp.

Actually no... I couldn't even close the clamp; i.e. the clamp screw wouldn't reach the other side to screw together properly, with the Parks sleeve underneath. That's why I had to abandon the replacement sleeve idea and used o rings to complete the look

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Is it a "long lever" or "short lever"?
Maybe it's ashort lever and the clamp needed a long lever, strange.
Can you try this:
switch the levers, and check it one screw in other and vice versa, and take shots of lever together to see the differences.
 
You know what - I had this same problem with a Blast-Tech MPP clamp. I feel like he may have used a variant like yours to mod his own after. They also will not fit a spacer.
 
Is it a "long lever" or "short lever"?
Maybe it's ashort lever and the clamp needed a long lever, strange.
Can you try this:
switch the levers, and check it one screw in other and vice versa, and take shots of lever together to see the differences.

Unfortunately I traded away my Parks clamp so I no longer have it for comparison... however, I recall checking to see if the clamp levers were the same length and the were (because I couldn't figure out what was going on initially!). There just isn't enough "clamp" to support a sleeve.
 
View attachment 538208

The levers also have aspect variation, less or more glossy, but always this shape.
The axis has a rounded end on lever side, but it's not systematical, it can also have a flat termination.
I have seen several clamp opening, the narrow opening have about 16 mm, and the large are about 18 or 19 mm (didn't measure, and sold the flashgun), the large opening clamp lever axis are also longer.
I had 3 different lever versions for now:
glossy lever with glossy short axis (pictured), glazed lever with short flat axis(not pictured) and unknown lever (absent) with glossy long rounded axis (pictured), in all cases the clamps are aluminum and levers are strong.

What is this about the different fake levers? Are they all from Park? And I think I could have some with the right shape but I may be wrong :confused. So far I would say the shape is another than the replica lever in your picture.

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this lever looks good to me.
I think in fact I was really not lucky with replica mpp clamps lol, I see only good parks replicas on picture here, the only ugly one on photo is the one I pictured (blastech)
 
very nice MPP chaim!

this thread is great, i am a complete novice to vaders saber. glad there is a thread recently started with great photos for explanation. i;m excited to see where this thread goes!
 
I would like to know what the profile is on the trapezoidal side bars so that I could make some myself (until Roy or someone else decided to offer good replicas, of course. ;) )

The side bars with straight sides seem to be rounded at top and bottom but the trapezoidal side bars seem to have sharper edges - but are all edges just as sharp?
Blastech sidebars with sharp edges can't fit my Parks clamp because they are too big and too sharp-edged. If the edges were rounded off, then they would work.
 
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Darth Lars as you can see on the real prop the trapezoid sidebars are even thinner towards the top than on the bottom . . . in other words there's a taper going on on all sides and edges ... and the edges are not all that sharp ... the edge facing outside on top is a bit rounded or smooth so not sharp at all :)

Chaim
 
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@Darth Lars as you can see on the real prop the trapezoid sidebars are even thinner towards the top than on the bottom . . . in other words there's a taper going on on all sides and edges ... and the edges are not all that sharp ... the edge facing outside on top is a bit rounded or smooth so not sharp at all :)
Oh, I have already looked closely at those images a lot but I have not been sure about what it is I am actually seeing. ;)
There are lots of angles here and there and what looks like either shadows or gaps.
 
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Anybody who wants to sell a spare MPP correct for a Vader build, please feel free to contact me ;) I built one on a Heiland, but am totally interested in building a "correct" model. Am jealous of all the MPPs on this thread!!! I bought the "right" Heiland, and upgraded the screw-on base with a "correct" Sol base. But it's just NOT the same!
 
Perhaps these pictures might help?

Wonderful, thank you! They will help me if ever I want to upgrade from the ones I have. (They are from BlastTech, and they are simply rectangular)
But I'll have to figure out how to make a threaded hole first, which means I'll have to figure out everything about lead and pitch of the lever-screw used... :-(
 

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