Official V3 Nike MAG Replica Thread - V3 Discussion Thread

cavx · Feb 17, 2018

WizardBTTF said:
The pair I molded was from a size 10 or 11 I believe...but I modded a size 13 and they fit. So I haven't really felt the need to make anymore sizes. Yea, the stuff I use is "water clear" it's completely clear. I think mold release and mold finish affect the transparency the most. Even humidity can affect clarity.

This stuff is hydroscopic meaning it attracts water which then clouds it. So don't mix and pour on cold or rainy days. Lucky right now, it is dry and hot.

I was curious about the larger sizes because it seems like only the mid-sole changes.

What I intend to do soon is to make a hard cast of each part of the molds and sand the inside parts to at least 400 grit, then make a new silicone mold from that. i ended up polishing the inside half of the molds I made (I used A40 shore silicone and have since found an A60 shore) with a ceramic bit. It took the rough surface where the silicone molded the glue marks off the original parts and gave them a more uniform look.

These V3 US10 parts fit the V2 8 and 8.5 which is interesting.

WizardBTTF · Feb 17, 2018

cavx said:
This stuff is hydroscopic meaning it attracts water which then clouds it. So don't mix and pour on cold or rainy days. Lucky right now, it is dry and hot.

I was curious about the larger sizes because it seems like only the mid-sole changes.

What I intend to do soon is to make a hard cast of each part of the molds and sand the inside parts to at least 400 grit, then make a new silicone mold from that. i ended up polishing the inside half of the molds I made (I used A40 shore silicone and have since found an A60 shore) with a ceramic bit. It took the rough surface where the silicone molded the glue marks off the original parts and gave them a more uniform look.

These V3 US10 parts fit the V2 8 and 8.5 which is interesting.

Yea the part that has the wings on it was the only part that was maybe 3mm shorter than ideal, but the soles are somewhat malleable so I was able to close the gap.

I did something similar I think, I made my molds from a hard tooling resin. So I polished the window where the EL panel would be behind so it would be crystal clear. The rest I left rough and textured so it would adhere well. I also use a high gloss mold spray mold release which helps the transparency as well.

cavx · Feb 17, 2018

WizardBTTF said:
Yea the part that has the wings on it was the only part that was maybe 3mm shorter than ideal, but the soles are somewhat malleable so I was able to close the gap.

I did something similar I think, I made my molds from a hard tooling resin. So I polished the window where the EL panel would be behind so it would be crystal clear. The rest I left rough and textured so it would adhere well. I also use a high gloss mold spray mold release which helps the transparency as well.

The silicone I have used does not need a release agent. Parts just pull out. The A40 silicone is hard enough to be self supporting and soft enough to bend enough to release parts, even thin parts like the wings without stretching or tearing.

What I have discovered (actually back in V2 days) was that if I mix my batch of rubber, pour some into the mold, tipping it around so it coats the surface of the waffle detail, then degass both the pot and the molds, this will eliminate any air bubbles from occuring during the pour. Even though the rubber is degassed, sometimes it wants to fold over itself due to the surface tension. Spray releases will help here, but I just prefer not to use them if I don't have to. So, if there is already product in place, it just pours like it should because the surface is now coated. Because my molds were also degassed, there is no change of bubble ruptures there either.

It took a bit of testing and modifying, but now I have my molds working to a point where I am getting consistent results and I don't have to use the pressure pot. My side wing molds probably won't fit anyway and I still have not bought myself a compressor yet. The idea of loading this up scares me, but I am going to have to get this up and running soon.

floz · Feb 18, 2018

Hello, i'm new in the nike air mag game

could you please guide me, i really want these shoes but i want a nice looking model with good light, what do i have to buy ?

cavx · Feb 18, 2018

floz said:
Hello, i'm new in the nike air mag game could you please guide me, i really want these shoes but i want a nice looking model with good light, what do i have to buy ?

Welcome to the forum.

Go to the first post of this thread. All the information you seek will be in the first 2 posts.

Had a productive day today. It was pretty hot and this aided in speeding up the cure time of the rubber parts I had poured in the morning.

Always Degas.

I have experimented with adding a colour filter on the 3m reflective tape I am currently using in my wear pair. Because of the large surface area, the camera didn't pick up the true look here.

And a demold video

don jon · Feb 18, 2018

looking good
i personally wont get any soles till my lights go out and need to fix em MTB
did you take out other sole for other shoe
if not
would you mind doing a video?

cavx · Feb 18, 2018

Deleted

AjiPro · Feb 19, 2018

https://www.instagram.com/p/BfXEImQHdwC/

What in the actual ****

Sent from my VS996 using Tapatalk

Callum · Feb 19, 2018

AjiPro said:
https://www.instagram.com/p/BfXEImQHdwC/

What in the actual ****

Sent from my VS996 using Tapatalk

I don't trust anyone who's thumb bends like that

Wawa101 · Feb 19, 2018

AjiPro said:
https://www.instagram.com/p/BfXEImQHdwC/

What in the actual ****

Sent from my VS996 using Tapatalk

Dang if you actually look at his page he got quite the collection

MTB · Feb 19, 2018

AjiPro said:
https://www.instagram.com/p/BfXEImQHdwC/

What in the actual ****

Sent from my VS996 using Tapatalk

$140 to be in the group chat?? The only thing that could be useful would be programing the LEDs and making the el brighter. But I wouldnt pay $140 for that.

Anyone here know how to do that?

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

Thearkplayer · Feb 19, 2018

Any broken MAGs for sale

rubberpoultry · Feb 19, 2018

MTB said:
Anyone here know how to do that?

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

Not without photoshop.

airair · Feb 20, 2018

MTB said:
$140 to be in the group chat?? The only thing that could be useful would be programing the LEDs and making the el brighter. But I wouldnt pay $140 for that.

Anyone here know how to do that?

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

The programming is not rocket science.

All you need is a adafruit trinket and use that as a main board instead of the existing one that comes in the v3 shoes.

Connect the battery to it, and all the outputs to led and el panels.
You can look it up on adafruit, there are examples of how to get the LED's to flash at specific points, so if battery is charging, you put in code to turn on the red ones.
When battery is full then show green.

You use the examples on the adafruit site, and just modify and implement them into the trinket or whichever programmable board you are using.

- - - Updated - - -

Thearkplayer said:
Any broken MAGs for sale

Ask david. he's on holiday though at this present time. Probably busy with Martha.

cavx · Feb 20, 2018

OK I can verify that acetone works to remove the soled. I used a syringe to squirt the liquid into the seam, waited for a few minutes and when I pressed the midsole, the glue seam split and the sole came away. Now this was one of my wear pair shoes which has already been unsoled before.

Here is a better idea of how that 3m looks behind the filter. Photo was taken with the flash on.

I've also prepped myself a glow kit, both on clear soles for the wear pair. Not sure how to do the strap logo yet.

Sent from my CPH1701 using Tapatalk

Callum · Feb 20, 2018

cavx said:
OK I can verify that acetone works to remove the soled. I used a syringe to squirt the liquid into the seam, waited for a few minutes and when I pressed the midsole, the glue seam split and the sole came away. Now this was one of my wear pair shoes which has already been unsoled before.

Here is a better idea of how that 3m looks behind the filter. Photo was taken with the flash on.

I've also prepped myself a glow kit, both on clear soles for the wear pair. Not sure how to do the strap logo yet. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180220/40dcf418b208ab2ccd708d6a38e1943d.jpg

Sent from my CPH1701 using Tapatalk

That looks good!

MrFusion · Feb 20, 2018

MTB said:
$140 to be in the group chat?? The only thing that could be useful would be programing the LEDs and making the el brighter. But I wouldnt pay $140 for that.

Anyone here know how to do that?

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

i agree, I would not pay for that also. Though I would love to know how to remove the parts without cutting the fabric for future reference. If I had to have a guess, maybe heat applied from the inside to warm up the glue between the part your trying to remove and the fabric surface. Less dense from the inside, better heat transference. But that’s just a guess, I’ve not tried it.

MrFusion · Feb 20, 2018

Does anybody know the required voltage ac of the el panels and if they are powered by an inverter on the main board?
Thinking of making a hole new board to replace the junk that came from China. Plus new wiring.
Also, has anyone got an old main board taken from some 3.1’s? Need it to pick it apart and run tests and don’t wanna pull the one from my working shoes. Not until I’ve worked out how to make it.

cheers M

DragonGalvy · Feb 20, 2018

cavx said:
OK I can verify that acetone works to remove the soled. I used a syringe to squirt the liquid into the seam, waited for a few minutes and when I pressed the midsole, the glue seam split and the sole came away. Now this was one of my wear pair shoes which has already been unsoled before.
Here is a better idea of how that 3m looks behind the filter. Photo was taken with the flash on.
I've also prepped myself a glow kit, both on clear soles for the wear pair. Not sure how to do the strap logo yet. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180220/40dcf418b208ab2ccd708d6a38e1943d.jpg
Sent from my CPH1701 using Tapatalk

When I replaced my strap logos with your GITD panel, I drew the outline shape of it on the back of the strap, and used a sharp-pointed knife to cut through the leather and through the EL panel, while leaving the clear plastic in front of the EL panel intact. I found that this gave a much better 'look' from the outside when it's all glued in than removing everything and just pushing the GITD strap through the hole. Just cut slowly and carefully one layer at a time.

WizardBTTF · Feb 20, 2018

MrFusion said:
Does anybody know the required voltage ac of the el panels and if they are powered by an inverter on the main board?
Thinking of making a hole new board to replace the junk that came from China. Plus new wiring.
Also, has anyone got an old main board taken from some 3.1’s? Need it to pick it apart and run tests and don’t wanna pull the one from my working shoes. Not until I’ve worked out how to make it.

cheers M

I had the board redesigned a bit, stock board is 115V AC 400hz If I remember correctly, It uses a electronic style inverter which is integrated into the main board.

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