1/700 & 1/350 scale BH Cygnus builds

I also created a grey scale template for the walls. My hope is to print them off to scale onto sticker paper and cover the clear parts. It will help mask and diffuse the yellow LEDs. When the lights are off the ship will be black and grey but when lit the walls should glow yellow
walls.jpg
 
Murphy. glad you like the list, I hope it's useful.Don't forget to download the armature files-you'll need them!
Psimon. I would save you a bit of bother-you don't need to dye your parts(;)). If you look at the pipework on the upperspine section of your provided picture, you'll see it's a green hue. That''s because the original filming model was constructed from brazed together brass. When cooled, it goes an orangey pink colour, before rapidly corroding to various shades of green. You can see this, if you look for pictures online. They are out there. There are also various pictures of the unpainted model in this thread.
The reason the girderwork looks black in your picture,and most others,is because when filming, the exposure was made for the sodium lights inside the model. Try taking a photograph of someone with a strong light behind them, they come out under-exposed or as a sillouete. Same thing here.
Just airbrush the parts liberally with a bronze colour, it will soak in and ack as both primer and basecoat,then drybrush the brass-or steel if you prefer.

Obviously I'm not trying to tell you what to do, just impart some experience- but some people do take things the wqrong way...
Be sure and post your pix too. Good luck.

U_S_S__Cygnus_Original_Miniature_12.jpgvlcsnap-2011-07-23-16h33m14s64.png
 
Murphy. glad you like the list, I hope it's useful.Don't forget to download the armature files-you'll need them!
Psimon. I would save you a bit of bother-you don't need to dye your parts(;)). If you look at the pipework on the upperspine section of your provided picture, you'll see it's a green hue.

Thanks for the feedback and images. The only reason i considered dying the kit black was to avoid any 'white' spots. Nothing worse then painting a complicated kit only to discover after assembly that you missed something and the white plastic is showing through. I will take your advise and try some test painting on some spare parts I got to see what works best. It would be nice if I didn't have to dye the parts. Thanks!!

Do you have the entire armature plan in PDF format? Earlier in this thread I got the main hull and stern but no front neck or bow. I was hoping someone would be offering this without charging. I am SO CLOSE to finishing my kit. Just need the armature and a few antenia bits.
 
Unfortunately, I don't have a bow armature file.
What I did was to get a drawing pad, pencil and a ruler and measured up the INSIDE of the taped together bow section. Using those measurements, I drew a diagram of a box, about the size of an old audio cassette. Then I added another, smaller section to that, altering the first diagram. This piece is the neck. To ensure you get the correct dimensions, you'll need to assemble the main hull to the stern, and slide the relevant pieces onto it(cue lots of fiddling), before butting your(still) taped bow section against the front fuel module. Look down, through the girderwork and make the relevant measurements.
Then pop-off to your local lasercutter and have the pieces cut..
When drawing your diagram, put marks on it for the screws and wires to pass through. You WILL end up using screws to hold it on, as superglue on it's own is not enough!
Another very important thing to note: The hull armature is wrong in one section. When the drawing was made, no consideration was given to assembly- the glazing beneath the upper spine, when assembled, sticks out wider than the interior of the front fuel module section. Not the top piece, but both the diagonals. After you assemble the armature, the pieces will need trimmed, as the front fuel module is impossible to fit otherwise.
All good fun....NOT!
For paint-Uk bronze- Chuck it on-the plastic drinks it up!So don't worry about missing anywhere....
Once that's done- drybrushing the brass on is sooo quck and easy- it's really enjoyable and you'll be amazed at the results you get, very quickly. Good luck, and keep on posting buddy!
 
The hull armature is wrong in one section. When the drawing was made, no consideration was given to assembly- the glazing beneath the upper spine, when assembled, sticks out wider than the interior of the front fuel module section. Not the top piece, but both the diagonals. After you assemble the armature, the pieces will need trimmed, as the front fuel module is impossible to fit otherwise.
All good fun....NOT!

Thank you for your help but unfortunately you lost me completely. I am a visual person and would need to see what you are talking about. Now knowing the PDF file that was posted is wrong is heartbreaking. I can follow simple guides when making models but coming up with the armature for this kit is far beyond my abilities. Are you able to modify the existing PDF file to account for the error you found and repost it?
 
You won't need to get a new armature, just have a very sharp craft knife handy when you go to slide the bow(and possibly) the stern fuel modules on. They foul on the armature upper spine diagonals due to a lack of tolerance within those pieces. It's nothing serious, just a minor technical hitch! A sharp craft knife resolves the issue in a jiffy. All you need to do is trim off the overhanging diagonals, so they are flush with the rest of the armature. Without standing beside you and showing you, it's difficult to explain, but when you go to slide that part on, you will understand.

Looking at the armature parts you have, you will have eight long 1mm or 1/32 thick pieces. The upper spine diagonals are the two wider pieces(same length, but wider-not thicker). Look at the armature diagram and you will see this. AFTER you assemble the armature, try sliding the forward fuel module piece over the front of your assembled armature, then you will see the issue.As previously stated, it's nothing major- so don't worry. Fix it when you get to it. Not before!:thumbsup
 
32Buds, did you make your armature out of Acrylic Plexi material? I'd like to know what material and thickness you used?
Thanks for being SO helpful! You are very kind to share all this information. Sincerely
Murphy
 
I'm not sure, but will begin checking after the New Year Holiday. If you'd like to recommend one you used... please do.
May I ask where you purchased your Acrylic? Online or Local? Thanks again sir!
Murph


1mm acrylic and 3mm acrylic.
Do you have a laser-cutter in your area?
 
\The armature files were emailed to a lasersmith in the usa. The link is posted somewhere in this thread. The service was quick and reasonably priced . You'll need to go back abit to find it though....;)
 
So all the parts to make the model are available to print again???? The 1/350 or the 1/700? :)

Between Shapeways and myself all the 1/700 parts are available, as far as I know the 1/350 version was never finished. I don't own the models, only finished the missing parts from the 1/700 version so hopefully someone else will pipe in with the other info for you. I've also noticed that Shapeways reject some of the original parts, if that's ever the case these have all been previously printed and I would just put them through again but tick the "Print it Anyway" box.
Marc
 
Agreed. "Print it anyway" is a handy option to have. I have the top spine file, if you need it. I don't know if it's ever been reposted on shapeways site.
 
Re: 1/700 & 1/350 scale BH Cygnus builds

Not certain if this is allowed in this thread so Mods feel free to remove..............

All,
It is with great regret that I am needing to put my accumulated 1/700 scale Cygnus parts up for sale due to a car repair. I have included a snapshot of my excel file which highlights the parts which I have in my possession. All parts are printed from shapeways and are unpainted. I am also including the acrylic hull that I had laser cut from a local person.

What you get:

1. See the spreadsheet below which highlights the printed parts that I have in my possession (I will upload images this evening). Purchased parts are marked with an 'X'.
2. Acrylic laser cut hull. This includes all pieces cut from 3mm clear acrylic. My laser cutter did not have 1mm acrylic at the time.... Not certain that the 3mm will be too thick or not but at least it might give you a good start as a template. The hull does NOT include the bow portion.
3. Does NOT include the Polomino or upgrade parts from Marc.

I am asking $625 shipped in the US.
Please PM me if you have any questions.Cygnus excel file.JPG

Thanks

- - - Updated - - -
 
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