Metal Lathes-which one to get?

boring bars work fine on small mills because they only have 1 "flute" and not a lot of cutting pressure but you do have to rough out the material first with something else most likely.

That would work in a large mill but not so well in a mini mill. Since it's off center when spinning, it would put too much stress force on the milling head.
 
While i think it´s a good thing to buy/have a boring head, i´m no fan of making intermittent cuts with it. Wouldn´t use one of my Lenz LPA-S1 for such.

Maybe it would be better to use a small (bought or even easily made for this task) flycutter for it - less prone for any damage due to the shatter/impacts.
 
Danny, you need a R8 to 3/4, adapter.
And like ARKM said you have to take light cuts (and really secure your work. My mill is 1 size up from yours, still a small mill. Let me go grab you a pic of my control box setup. The adapter weighs more than the end mill!

Also, a flycutter as michael said might be the way to go. I think I paid $40 for the end mill (ebay) and $30 for the adapter (ebay).

Scott thanks so much! Now I gotta see if my mill will hold a 3/4 shank
 
What a timely thread as I was just looking these up yesterday as a possible addition to the workshop. Thanks for the info!
 
Danny, you need a R8 to 3/4, adapter.
And like ARKM said you have to take light cuts (and really secure your work. My mill is 1 size up from yours, still a small mill. Let me go grab you a pic of my control box setup. The adapter weighs more than the end mill!

Also, a flycutter as michael said might be the way to go. I think I paid $40 for the end mill (ebay) and $30 for the adapter (ebay).

i believe this is the correct 3/4 adapter i need

https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=1257&category=

as for fly cutters this has been on my list, i wanted this to try and do a smoother finish. i wouldn't have thought to use a fly cutter to make this radius on the control box.

i would use it just like how i planned for my ghetto hole saw right? except i would do VERY VERY small increments of removing material.

as for the 1-1/2" end mill, i ALWAYS remove small amounts, .010 at a time. it takes me forever, but again im no machinist so i really dont want to break anything, or hurt myself

but back to the flycutter. i would set the flycutter up so it makes a 1-1/2" diameter? and then slowly remove material?

i want to thank EVERYONE who has participated in this thread with their advice. yesterday i was so busy i couldn't really reply with what i wanted. catching up on things this morning, bracing for 1 hell of a snow storm..

thanks for everything guys
 
I just used a standard R8 collet designed to hold 3/4" diameter shanks. No adapter needed. Here's a link to the collet...

https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=4490

If it helps, my mill is an X2 mini mill. All X2 mini mills, regardless of brand, are the same with very small differences here and there. Despite those differences, ALL parts are interchangeable between them. That said, if your mill is an X2 mini mill, then you should be able to use a standard R8 collet designed for 3/4" shanks. Here's a list of the different brands of X2 mini mills...

https://littlemachineshop.com/info/minimill_compare.php
 
Last edited:
I just used a standard R8 collet designed to hold 3/4" diameter shanks. No adapter needed. Here's a link to the collet...

https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=4490

If it helps, my mill is an X2 mini mill. All X2 mini mills, regardless of brand, are the same with very small differences here and there. Despite those differences, ALL parts are interchangeable between them. That said, if your mill is an X2 mini mill, then you should be able to use a standard R8 collet designed for 3/4" shanks. Here's a list of the different brands of X2 mini mills...

https://littlemachineshop.com/info/minimill_compare.php

Yup!! Sure enough! Central machine 44991! Thanks for the link!!

Why don’t you like the R8 adapters?
 
Yup!! Sure enough! Central machine 44991! Thanks for the link!!

Why don’t you like the R8 adapters?

You're welcome.

I don't not like them. I just have no need for one as I bought a collet set that came with a 3/4" collet. Also, with the collet, you get more more head room for taller parts/longer end mills.
 
I'm kinda in the middle here..

while I got a chinese lathe (most are anyways)..... I did NOT go with the 7x class .... when I saw them in person at my local HF... it looked VERY small

I was turned on by a buddy who informed me that the 8x14 HF lathes (same exact machine as the LatheMaster 8x14).... was on sale for $399... but not being advertised.

I go to my local HF... and sure enough.. in the system.. it was listed as $450 or something...... I even got to use a 20% off coupon! SO for me.. it was a deal I couldnt refuse. This was years ago.. and since then the lathe is now listed at $999 on their site!! I recall walking out of the store only paying (in the end) roughly $379 or so!


Here is a post I made a while back..

Im always shootin' off at the mouth about my/the HarborFreight 8x12 lathe they sell,..... with is really an 8x14 and the same exact machine as the LatheMaster 8x14 (but in red of course)

I 100% believe that since most of the imports for us hobby people are ALL THE SAME, with a diff. color and branded stamp... the 8x stands out and above the rest.. ESPECIALLY at the price it can be had for.(sales & coupons..etc)

I am new to machining in general.. and this is my first lathe.. (so take this for what its worth!) ;) lol

I spent some time reading about hobby lathes and what would be best for me and my hobby/projects

(mostly round stock, threading a bit..and mostly aluminum material)

the 7x's seemed great.. because of all the mods and parts available plus a HUGE community following..

but when I saw the 7x10 in real life.. I couldnt imagine that thing being much use to me..size and especially 'weight' seemed to be a concern from the jump.


I read about the 8x on Fignoggle.com and many other sites.. and while I read mixed reviews from the 7x owners (about plastic gears, or not heavy cuts....the extra time to dial/tweak/align the 7x's....etc) I didnt read one negative review about the 8x.

compared to the size and weight difference..


(I was sold)

figNoggle_hf8x12_massive.jpg



the biggest difference I have found is the lack of variable speed control on the 8x's where as the 7x's have a POT to control the speed.

being I only work in one material...speed was too much of a factor for me.. (and a belt change, while another step, really isnt a huge deal for me)

changing gears is a PITA at times.. (takes about 5-10 minutes).. so lack of a quick change gear box is also something to contemplate.. although I dont believe the 7x's have a QCGB either...

I rarely thread (or try not to at least...lol).. so again your work needs should be factored in here.

IMHO..the 8x has the 7'x beat everywhere else..

metal gears
big on weight
still small/hobby sized foot print. (fitting on a 2x4 foot table no problems with space all around it)
comes 'ready to rip' out of the box (still a bit of red grease...but fit and finish was good from factory)

for the 8x's you of course have many choices for a quick change tool post..

the most common ones are the A2Z..which IMHO is more for the smaller 7x's (and smaller).. and looks too small on the beefier 8x's..
also these are made out of aluminum..(softer) which is NOT desirable IMHO for a QCTP..and anything for cutting........rigid..rigid..rigid.. =)

then there is the AxA's.. (piston style or wedge)

wedge is suppose to be 'better' for repeatability..but Im not sure how much that is.. (either way I got the wedge as my first one)

usually 2 places have ones specifically for the 8x's..


LatheMaster & LittleMachineShop

each have their 'own' uniqueness on what makes them fit for the 8x's


LatheMaster Version:

comes with a smaller toolpost/bolt..and it touted as a direct bolt-on accessory.. (meaning you can still use the stock compound rest with the 'knob')

going this route though means you are LOCKED into getting tool holders from them..as they are specially modified (milled lip/edge) so that 1/2 tooling can sit low enough to be 'centered'...



LittleMachineShop Version:

you need to buy a new compound rest that has been milled, and lets the AxA QCTP sit a bit lower..

Pros: you can use any AxA tool holder.. no need to only use modified ones
Cons: the new compound rest need to have two holes drilled & tapped to put the adjustment handle/wheel on it from the stock rest.

I went the LittleMachineShop route myself..
basically because they answered my emails and had great customer support where as Lathemaster still hasnt to this day replied.

maybe not the easiest approach but worked out fine in the end.

When i first got my 8x from HF..

it was on sale for $449.. (un-heard of price).....coupled with a %20 of coupon.. I walked out the door with it for like $379 after tax..etc

cant beat that!..

the version I got had the BD812 stamped on the front plate..(I have since en-acted my no questions asked WARRANTY and got a new one.....but this version was a CENTRAL MACHINERY stamp in the front plate.. and the finish seemed NOT as great as the other....but still fairly good)

I have a Shumatech DRO for it.. (built, finally got scales too....just not installed it yet) for it..

plan on doing a few 'minor' mods to keep it in good condition.

here are random pics..

overall_1.jpg


gears.jpg


chuck.jpg





Some charts..and diagrams I made to go along with it:

gearChart.jpg




Stock and 18TPI threading chart:
exampleGears.jpg



Pics of the compound rest differences:

QCTP_top.jpg


QCTP_noholes.jpg


QCTP_bottom.jpg



Some pics of the bench I made for it:

1.jpg


2.jpg


3.jpg


4.jpg



Anyone else with an 8x?


I know we are a minority!.. (although these machines are HUGELY under-estimated IMHO) =)

- - - Updated - - -

Here is a tool list post I made a long time ago as well..


Noob tooling list (my opinions only...ymmv)

here is a copy/paste of an earlier post I had made...I have the HarborFreigh t8x12(14) lathe.. so mke sure you get the 7x12 version of anything linked to that is 8x12 specific.


Paste:

"I" myself.. bought a bunch of tooling from HF..just to get started..and keep the wallet not as mad at me.. however.. over time & experience..you'll knwo what you use alot..and what you'll need better quality tools for.. and you can replace with better ones once these break.

sometimes tools/part can be used with whatever lathe you have..sometimes they are 'size' specific..

ALWAYS check Harbor Freight website for prices BEFORE going to the store.. they will honor price difference if you print it out..

my 8x12 was on sale for $449 (cheaper then the 7x12)..and I got to use a %20 off coupon! they are all over..google or ask here..someone will have one.. for $379 (including tax) out the door...nothing could beat it! and it was (after cleaning the shipping grease off) very precise and ready to go out the box!

so here are some things I recommend getting: (most are for an 8x12/14 unless universal)


some things 'I' recommend are:

a QCTP (Quick Change Tool Post)is something "I" recommend getting right away.. then AxA is a nice 'beefy' stable size for the 8x very nice for quickly changing tools..and repeatability of tool height/centering!!! .. I hear the A2Z version is on the smaller side..(which may be nice fot the smaller 7x's)....but being made out of aluminum.. rigidity is a question..and not something to play with IMHO)


NOOBIE LIST/STARTER LIST:

1.) 1/2" drill chuck.. (maybe several (3-4) if you have extra money for them..otherwise you can use one and switch from drill bits to drill bit..or center bit..etc
42340
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-ha...O&utm_medium=Inbound_links&utm_source=linking

40641
2.) blanks to share, make your own tool bits from.. comes with cut off bar that works 'ok' too:
http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piec...-tool-bits-for-metalworking-lathes-40641.html

1722
3.) boring bar set:
http://www.harborfreight.com/9-piece-boring-bar-set-1722.html


I have found these two items essential for me:

38573
4.) live center:
http://www.harborfreight.com/mt2-live-center-38573.html

40090
5.) bull nose live center:
http://www.harborfreight.com/mt2-bullnose-live-center-40090.html

I would stay away from the regular HF tool bit..(the red kind)..as they have never done well for me...

however these have been fine:

39931
6.) 1/4" indexable carbide tip tool set:
http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece-indexable-carbide-tool-set-39931.html

or

39933
7.) 1/2" indexable carbide tip tool set: (I dont think the 7x can take 1/2 tooling though?)
http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece-1-2-half-inch-shank-indexable-carbide-tool-set-39933.html

I also suggest:

60381
8.) center bits: (60 degree)
http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece-center-drill-countersink-set-60381.html

9.) set of drill bits.. up to 1/2"

these may not be the BEST tools to get..but are affordable and once you break or find you need something better you can upgrade..

optional:

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result/index/?p=2&q=center+drill+bits
&
http://www.harborfreight.com/29-pie...anium-nitride-coated-drill-bit-set-32926.html

You may want to get a 4-jaw independent chuck (check seller 800 wat on ebay).. or check out the HF version..as Im not sure if the plain back chucks from 800watt need a special backing plate??

HF 125MM 4-jaw chuck: $58....no part number.. need to call HF TECH SUPPORT..(not customer service) TECH SUPPORT: 1-888-299-3427

Replacement Sync Toothed belt: $5.85 - #28587-44859
Replacement V-Belt/Pulley Belt 0-720 $1.38 - #28728-44859

Follow Rest $16.57 - #29380-44859
Steady Rest $17.63 - 29381-44859

Face Plate $$12.42 - 29382-44859

Oil can: (for your oil holes.. all over)

http://www.harborfreight.com/4-oz-flexible-spout-oil-can-1106.html
or
http://www.harborfreight.com/6-oz-squeeze-it-oil-can-96797.html


You dont need everything on this list to get 'started'... but all this stuff is nice to have and most will be needed shortly and you start playing around..

there are other tool sets to look at and specialty tools.. but again..you can add when the time comes or when you need to replace something after it breaks..
 
Last edited:
I'm kinda in the middle here..

while I got a chinese lathe (most are anyways)..... I did NOT go with the 7x class .... when I saw them in person at my local HF... it looked VERY small

I was turned on by a buddy who informed me that the 8x14 HF lathes (same exact machine as the LatheMaster 8x14).... was on sale for $399... but not being advertised.

I go to my local HF... and sure enough.. in the system.. it was listed as $450 or something...... I even got to use a 20% off coupon! SO for me.. it was a deal I couldnt refuse. This was years ago.. and since then the lathe is now listed at $999 on their site!! I recall walking out of the store only paying (in the end) roughly $379 or so!


Here is a post I made a while back..

Im always shootin' off at the mouth about my/the HarborFreight 8x12 lathe they sell,..... with is really an 8x14 and the same exact machine as the LatheMaster 8x14 (but in red of course)

I 100% believe that since most of the imports for us hobby people are ALL THE SAME, with a diff. color and branded stamp... the 8x stands out and above the rest.. ESPECIALLY at the price it can be had for.(sales & coupons..etc)

I am new to machining in general.. and this is my first lathe.. (so take this for what its worth!) ;) lol

I spent some time reading about hobby lathes and what would be best for me and my hobby/projects

(mostly round stock, threading a bit..and mostly aluminum material)

the 7x's seemed great.. because of all the mods and parts available plus a HUGE community following..

but when I saw the 7x10 in real life.. I couldnt imagine that thing being much use to me..size and especially 'weight' seemed to be a concern from the jump.


I read about the 8x on Fignoggle.com and many other sites.. and while I read mixed reviews from the 7x owners (about plastic gears, or not heavy cuts....the extra time to dial/tweak/align the 7x's....etc) I didnt read one negative review about the 8x.

compared to the size and weight difference..


(I was sold)

http://www.fignoggle.com/machines/8x12lathe/figNoggle_hf8x12_massive.jpg


the biggest difference I have found is the lack of variable speed control on the 8x's where as the 7x's have a POT to control the speed.

being I only work in one material...speed was too much of a factor for me.. (and a belt change, while another step, really isnt a huge deal for me)

changing gears is a PITA at times.. (takes about 5-10 minutes).. so lack of a quick change gear box is also something to contemplate.. although I dont believe the 7x's have a QCGB either...

I rarely thread (or try not to at least...lol).. so again your work needs should be factored in here.

IMHO..the 8x has the 7'x beat everywhere else..

metal gears
big on weight
still small/hobby sized foot print. (fitting on a 2x4 foot table no problems with space all around it)
comes 'ready to rip' out of the box (still a bit of red grease...but fit and finish was good from factory)

for the 8x's you of course have many choices for a quick change tool post..

the most common ones are the A2Z..which IMHO is more for the smaller 7x's (and smaller).. and looks too small on the beefier 8x's..
also these are made out of aluminum..(softer) which is NOT desirable IMHO for a QCTP..and anything for cutting........rigid..rigid..rigid.. =)

then there is the AxA's.. (piston style or wedge)

wedge is suppose to be 'better' for repeatability..but Im not sure how much that is.. (either way I got the wedge as my first one)

usually 2 places have ones specifically for the 8x's..


LatheMaster & LittleMachineShop

each have their 'own' uniqueness on what makes them fit for the 8x's


LatheMaster Version:

comes with a smaller toolpost/bolt..and it touted as a direct bolt-on accessory.. (meaning you can still use the stock compound rest with the 'knob')

going this route though means you are LOCKED into getting tool holders from them..as they are specially modified (milled lip/edge) so that 1/2 tooling can sit low enough to be 'centered'...



LittleMachineShop Version:

you need to buy a new compound rest that has been milled, and lets the AxA QCTP sit a bit lower..

Pros: you can use any AxA tool holder.. no need to only use modified ones
Cons: the new compound rest need to have two holes drilled & tapped to put the adjustment handle/wheel on it from the stock rest.

I went the LittleMachineShop route myself..
basically because they answered my emails and had great customer support where as Lathemaster still hasnt to this day replied.

maybe not the easiest approach but worked out fine in the end.

When i first got my 8x from HF..

it was on sale for $449.. (un-heard of price).....coupled with a %20 of coupon.. I walked out the door with it for like $379 after tax..etc

cant beat that!..

the version I got had the BD812 stamped on the front plate..(I have since en-acted my no questions asked WARRANTY and got a new one.....but this version was a CENTRAL MACHINERY stamp in the front plate.. and the finish seemed NOT as great as the other....but still fairly good)

I have a Shumatech DRO for it.. (built, finally got scales too....just not installed it yet) for it..

plan on doing a few 'minor' mods to keep it in good condition.

here are random pics..

http://dmstudios.net/misc/lathe-setup/overall_1.jpg

http://dmstudios.net/misc/lathe-setup/gears.jpg

http://dmstudios.net/misc/lathe-setup/chuck.jpg




Some charts..and diagrams I made to go along with it:

http://dmstudios.net/misc/lathe-setup/gearChart.jpg



Stock and 18TPI threading chart:
http://dmstudios.net/misc/lathe-setup/exampleGears.jpg


Pics of the compound rest differences:

http://dmstudios.net/misc/lathe-setup/QCTP_top.jpg

http://dmstudios.net/misc/lathe-setup/QCTP_noholes.jpg

http://dmstudios.net/misc/lathe-setup/QCTP_bottom.jpg


Some pics of the bench I made for it:

http://dmstudios.net/misc/latheBench/1.jpg

http://dmstudios.net/misc/latheBench/2.jpg

http://dmstudios.net/misc/latheBench/3.jpg

http://dmstudios.net/misc/latheBench/4.jpg


Anyone else with an 8x?


I know we are a minority!.. (although these machines are HUGELY under-estimated IMHO) =)

- - - Updated - - -

Here is a tool list post I made a long time ago as well..


Noob tooling list (my opinions only...ymmv)

here is a copy/paste of an earlier post I had made...I have the HarborFreigh t8x12(14) lathe.. so mke sure you get the 7x12 version of anything linked to that is 8x12 specific.


Paste:

"I" myself.. bought a bunch of tooling from HF..just to get started..and keep the wallet not as mad at me.. however.. over time & experience..you'll knwo what you use alot..and what you'll need better quality tools for.. and you can replace with better ones once these break.

sometimes tools/part can be used with whatever lathe you have..sometimes they are 'size' specific..

ALWAYS check Harbor Freight website for prices BEFORE going to the store.. they will honor price difference if you print it out..

my 8x12 was on sale for $449 (cheaper then the 7x12)..and I got to use a %20 off coupon! they are all over..google or ask here..someone will have one.. for $379 (including tax) out the door...nothing could beat it! and it was (after cleaning the shipping grease off) very precise and ready to go out the box!

so here are some things I recommend getting: (most are for an 8x12/14 unless universal)


some things 'I' recommend are:

a QCTP (Quick Change Tool Post)is something "I" recommend getting right away.. then AxA is a nice 'beefy' stable size for the 8x very nice for quickly changing tools..and repeatability of tool height/centering!!! .. I hear the A2Z version is on the smaller side..(which may be nice fot the smaller 7x's)....but being made out of aluminum.. rigidity is a question..and not something to play with IMHO)


NOOBIE LIST/STARTER LIST:

1.) 1/2" drill chuck.. (maybe several (3-4) if you have extra money for them..otherwise you can use one and switch from drill bits to drill bit..or center bit..etc
42340
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-ha...O&utm_medium=Inbound_links&utm_source=linking

40641
2.) blanks to share, make your own tool bits from.. comes with cut off bar that works 'ok' too:
http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piec...-tool-bits-for-metalworking-lathes-40641.html

1722
3.) boring bar set:
http://www.harborfreight.com/9-piece-boring-bar-set-1722.html


I have found these two items essential for me:

38573
4.) live center:
http://www.harborfreight.com/mt2-live-center-38573.html

40090
5.) bull nose live center:
http://www.harborfreight.com/mt2-bullnose-live-center-40090.html

I would stay away from the regular HF tool bit..(the red kind)..as they have never done well for me...

however these have been fine:

39931
6.) 1/4" indexable carbide tip tool set:
http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece-indexable-carbide-tool-set-39931.html

or

39933
7.) 1/2" indexable carbide tip tool set: (I dont think the 7x can take 1/2 tooling though?)
http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece-1-2-half-inch-shank-indexable-carbide-tool-set-39933.html

I also suggest:

60381
8.) center bits: (60 degree)
http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece-center-drill-countersink-set-60381.html

9.) set of drill bits.. up to 1/2"

these may not be the BEST tools to get..but are affordable and once you break or find you need something better you can upgrade..

optional:

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result/index/?p=2&q=center+drill+bits
&
http://www.harborfreight.com/29-pie...anium-nitride-coated-drill-bit-set-32926.html

You may want to get a 4-jaw independent chuck (check seller 800 wat on ebay).. or check out the HF version..as Im not sure if the plain back chucks from 800watt need a special backing plate??

HF 125MM 4-jaw chuck: $58....no part number.. need to call HF TECH SUPPORT..(not customer service) TECH SUPPORT: 1-888-299-3427

Replacement Sync Toothed belt: $5.85 - #28587-44859
Replacement V-Belt/Pulley Belt 0-720 $1.38 - #28728-44859

Follow Rest $16.57 - #29380-44859
Steady Rest $17.63 - 29381-44859

Face Plate $$12.42 - 29382-44859

Oil can: (for your oil holes.. all over)

http://www.harborfreight.com/4-oz-flexible-spout-oil-can-1106.html
or
http://www.harborfreight.com/6-oz-squeeze-it-oil-can-96797.html


You dont need everything on this list to get 'started'... but all this stuff is nice to have and most will be needed shortly and you start playing around..

there are other tool sets to look at and specialty tools.. but again..you can add when the time comes or when you need to replace something after it breaks..

Wicked nice write up! That is a beautiful lathe!
 
Thanks..

I like the lathe I ended up.. kept me in the 'hobby' price range.. .. but also gave a bit more 'machine' to work with...

While its bigger and heavier than the 7x series..... its still a 'benchtop' lathe... and still fits into most areas.

If I had to do it again.. (and if I had a little more space).... I'd get the next size up.. maybe a 9x20 or 10x something..


I also have a Little Machine Shop solid column mill.. (nice little machine no doubt!)...

I recommend as a general rule of thumb.. get the biggest mill (table size) your space can handle!! With a vise, rotary, etc..etc clamps..etc.etc.. you run out of table room FAST!..
 
DAAAANNNG!...

'workshop'.. looks more like a makerspace! LOL

I see a nice bridgeport there too!

Is that an old southbend lathe int he back corner too?

Nice machines! AND NICE SPACE TOO! lol

/ jealous


:)
 
DAAAANNNG!...

'workshop'.. looks more like a makerspace! LOL

I see a nice bridgeport there too!

Is that an old southbend lathe int he back corner too?

Nice machines! AND NICE SPACE TOO! lol

/ jealous


:)

South bend yes!! I was trying to figure out the year they were made, he was guessing the 50’s

The bender on the back wall, I take a picture of this thing every time I come here. It’s so massive...

I love this shop
 
maybe too late...

you could always *NOT* round the inside of the control switch and cut the pipe to accept a rectangle.

see crappy drawing below.

cutpipe.jpgIn other words, file down the pipe flat in the area the control thingy is supposed to fit. A lot less wasted material. Use big files til you get to a close fit, then teeny tiny files to get a nice snug fit.

Attaching a rounded piece to a pipe leaves me wondering how you would securely attach it.
 
My best advice for buying machines is get the biggest you can afford and have space for. I started a with a 7x10 then moved up to a 9x20 and now I have a 12x36. I'm pretty happy with where I'm at now.
 
maybe too late...

you could always *NOT* round the inside of the control switch and cut the pipe to accept a rectangle.

see crappy drawing below.

View attachment 804515In other words, file down the pipe flat in the area the control thingy is supposed to fit. A lot less wasted material. Use big files til you get to a close fit, then teeny tiny files to get a nice snug fit.

Attaching a rounded piece to a pipe leaves me wondering how you would securely attach it.

That can work if the box is narrow enough or the hilt's wall is thick enough in relation to it's diameter. With a 1.5" O.D. and a 1.25" I.D. and having a minimum of 1/16" wall thickness on the center line after milling the area of the activation box (for screw threads), the activation box can be about 5/8" wide max. Not too shabby.

As for how you would secure it when curved, you would secure it the same way you do with a TCSS activation box (they also have a curved bottom)... with a screw. You only need one and the curvature prevents the box from rotating. It's a very secure setup.
 
That can work if the box is narrow enough or the hilt's wall is thick enough in relation to it's diameter. With a 1.5" O.D. and a 1.25" I.D. and having a minimum of 1/16" wall thickness on the center line after milling the area of the activation box (for screw threads), the activation box can be about 5/8" wide max. Not too shabby.

As for how you would secure it when curved, you would secure it the same way you do with a TCSS activation box (they also have a curved bottom)... with a screw. You only need one and the curvature prevents the box from rotating. It's a very secure setup.

My plan is to order a tcss box and try and mill the sides smooth

I just don’t know if that will make it too small. This way if it does I would like to know how to just make my own box
 
South bend yes!! I was trying to figure out the year they were made, he was guessing the 50’s

The bender on the back wall, I take a picture of this thing every time I come here. It’s so massive...

I love this shop

Heres a great page on southbends if your intrested, they've got loads of info on old machine tools there and im pretty sure that lathe you pictured is probably late 1930's:

http://www.lathes.co.uk/southbend/index.html
 
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