Hand stitched Kermit the Frog puppet replica!! (Early builds/old patterns)

Kermit’s Head

Hello! I have a question about Kermit’s head.
Which direction should the stretch go for the head pattern?
Thank you.
 
Re: Kermit’s Head

Hello! I have a question about Kermit’s head.
Which direction should the stretch go for the head pattern?
Thank you.

Hey! That’s a good question, and one that I’ve discussed briefly with some other builders in puppet groups on facebook. The answer ended up being pretty much just personal preference, as the differences are small. I’ve done both. From my personal experience, making the head with the stretch going vertical (stretching vertically away from body) seems to provide a more flexible feeling when using him as a puppet—it somewhat feels like the fabric wants to return to shape more quickly once stretched. The heads that i’ve made with the stretch going sideways—lateral direction from the midline of his head—felt more stiff but more snug than the vertical stretch. I’ve also noticed that with the vertical stretch, his neck is also able to stretch up a little bit further, and could potentially make him slightly more expressive in that way. In some references of the earlier Kermit, has a quite a long neck.

Basically, I don’t really think there is any one definitive way to do it. Both can look just fine on the final product, but have subtle differences affecting performance.
 
Thank you. And another question that’s probably already been answered. How do you cut a ping pong ball perfectly in half? And what grit sandpaper do I use?
 
Thank you. And another question that’s probably already been answered. How do you cut a ping pong ball perfectly in half? And what grit sandpaper do I use?


I first poked a hole just over the halfway line (it's better to have a bit more to work with, as you can just sand down the edge by dragging it across sandpaper), then used a pair of small scissors to slowly cut around. The ping pong balls I'd used for my earlier builds (later builds use 35mm plastic domes), have a visible line where the two halves of the ping pong overlap--you can kind of see it when light is shining through the ball. I just used this line as reference for when I cut it in half.

I think I used 200 grit sandpaper, which worked well enough to work the cut edge.
 
How exactly do you poke a hole in a ping pong ball? Sorry for all the questions!

REALLY sharp pointy small scissors. The type you get in the beauty aisle. Those are like a hypodermic needle at the point. If you push slowly and not forceful, it should slide in. If you push too hard you will crack it. Just let the sharp scissors do the work for you, just guide it in.
 
That would work, or also if you have an exacto knife, you can make a small cut; be gentle and let the blade do the work—ping pongs are flexible and actually pretty easy to cut once you’re through, but be careful! The cut doesn’t need to be too big for it to be enough for the small scissors to get in and start cutting around the perimeter.
 
I used a really sharp pair of tiny scissors to poke the hole and cut the ball in half. I got the edge nearly perfect but I’m still gonna sand it down just in case. Thanks!
 
Can someone help me with attaching the eyes? I don’t want to use the nut and screw way to attach the eye, but I want the eyes to be full and not hollow. Would poly fill make the eye solid enough? If I glue the inner rim of the eye to the head, would it be sturdy enough?
Thank you.
 
Some people have used glue to attach the eyes to the fleece, but I haven’t had much luck with it, as the edges of the eyes would sort of lift away from the fleece. But I was probably using the wrong type of glue. It would be good to experiment with different adhesives. For filling in the eyes, I bought some expanding foam from the hardware store—the kind of stuff used to seal around windows, etc. It comes in a can and is sprayed. When dried, it’s very easy to trim and cut with a knife, and basically looks like a rigid foam. However, certain adhesives—like contact cement—will eat through the foam. I’ve heard of some puppet builders using hot glue. Might be worth a shot!
 
I’ll experiment with some scrap fleece and other ping pong balls. I’ll see how bad contact cement really works. I’m afraid hot glue might melt something so I’m gonna try fabri tac. Fabri tac is basically instant hot glue so, let’s see!
 
Hello, your Kermit replica is the most beautiful Muppet replica I have ever seen! Maybe others have asked you this question before and I don't want to offend you... but are you selling Kermit the frog puppets? I want to surprise someone really special to me. :)
 
Hello, your Kermit replica is the most beautiful Muppet replica I have ever seen! Maybe others have asked you this question before and I don't want to offend you... but are you selling Kermit the frog puppets? I want to surprise someone really special to me. :)


Hello Koppie, and thank you for the comment! I have sold a few of my builds in the past, although, I don’t really build them with the intent to sell them—I’d just ended up building several Kermits while I was trying to improve upon them based on any new research. I currently only have one that I've kept in my collection. I do like making him though, and may plan on making a couple more in the near future; hopefully even improving him in the process. It seems despite having built several Kermits already, there’s always something to improve on!! He’s a complicated character in many small ways.

Here’s a recent pic I took of my 4th build—based on my newest patterns, improved versions of the older patterns that I’d posted in this thread a while back—seen with Ernie’s rubber duckie :D The patterns have come a long way since my first build. Lots of trial and error, and studying an original Kermit as well.

I was playing around with some retro color filters. Photographing these builds is just as much fun–maybe even more so–as building them :)




3IAD8wF.jpg



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Hi ecl, I've made a great pattern for the head but lost the mouthplate pattern, is there a way to determine the size of mouthplate and shape just by the shape and size of the head pattern? (if that makes sense haha) thanks!
 
Been working on a new Kermit build! I'm trying to make this one look more like the Muppet Movie Kermit, with the puffier looking "cheeks" or mouth corners. I've been using 1/2" foam for the new bodies, which I tend to like more. It makes him so much more flexible, and you can turn him inside out in case anything needs to be repaired inside. This one also as the arm sleeve, which I normally leave off on my builds, as I mostly plan on displaying them anyways.

Working on the legs now and will attach them hopefully soon!

G44ycUD.jpg
 
Can you use cardboard to make the body?
Cardboard would not make the body look as smooth and round. I have seen some papercraft pieces that look really smooth. But cardboard has ridges and when you bend it, it remembers that bend and you can't undo mistakes.

As mentioned earlier in this build, Joann's has a polyfoam that would work pretty well. But it is only worth it if you get a 40% or more off coupon. Which come out pretty regularly online and in their ads. As far as I know the professional puppet builders use an open cell foam, also known as dryfast foam. Its possible to order this from a place called "FoamOnline.com" If you do choose to purchase from them, the foam you are looking for is going to be Rectangular, Foam Type: Dry Fast (2.15 lb), Firmness: Medium, Length: 24 inches, Width: 48 inches, Height: 1/2 inch.

Also Ecl has a newer build post on the RPF of what he does now when he makes his Kermits, also look there for informational pictures and guidance from the all knowing ECL. ecl's Kermit the Frog Puppet Replica (using my newest patterns)

Since I'm guessing you're new to puppet building, look at YouTube for some tutorials. Adam Kreutinger is a great channel for puppet building. He explains well to novices getting into puppet building, and his videos are entertaining at times. Adam Kreutinger
 
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