Jon Snow Brigandine - lightweight plate materials?

lovelyllama

New Member
Hey all!

So I'm hoping to knock out a quick (ha!) build for Jon Snow's armor in the later seasons of GOT (aka the Stark Armor).

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In real life it's two layers of leather with steel plates in between, secured with rivets.

I'm on a budget, so I'll be using fake leather. And since it just needs to look good and not *actually* stop arrows or swords, I'm obviously not putting real steel plates in between the layers. SO... what are some suggestions for a lightweight, inexpensive material that will still provide the necessary stiffness and shape. I feel like craft foam would be too flexible. Is there a lightweight plastic that might work?

Just looking for some help brainstorming materials. Gotta try to knock out a Jon AND a Danearys Season 3 in the next month and a half...
 
Have you considered coroplast (corrugated plastic board, kinda like corrugated cardboard) or foamed plastic sheet / board (aka Foamex)?
 
I have used Sintra for builds like this and it works great. Stiff, cuts with a knife or band saw, and it is relatively inexpensive. I have used contact cement with it as well as epoxy and even spray adhesive. Styrene plastic is also a good option and can be found as most model and hobby shops. I have not seen it respond badly to contact cement in the thickness you would be using.
 
Have you considered coroplast (corrugated plastic board, kinda like corrugated cardboard) or foamed plastic sheet / board (aka Foamex)?

Coroplast is a decent option budget-wise, but I worry that a bend in the wrong direction would lead to a weird crease in the plates. I might just go with straight foam core, which will take a slight bend with the application of heat (if needed on the chest/shoulder pieces), but is significantly cheaper than a Foamex/PVC option.

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I have used Sintra for builds like this and it works great. Stiff, cuts with a knife or band saw, and it is relatively inexpensive. I have used contact cement with it as well as epoxy and even spray adhesive. Styrene plastic is also a good option and can be found as most model and hobby shops. I have not seen it respond badly to contact cement in the thickness you would be using.

Most of the Sintra I've been seeing is on the pricier end--any recs for ordering online at a good price?

Thanks for the info on Styrene. Back on the table as an option if it can handle contact cement.
 
Coroplast is a decent option budget-wise, but I worry that a bend in the wrong direction would lead to a weird crease in the plates. I might just go with straight foam core, which will take a slight bend with the application of heat (if needed on the chest/shoulder pieces), but is significantly cheaper than a Foamex/PVC option.

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Most of the Sintra I've been seeing is on the pricier end--any recs for ordering online at a good price?

Thanks for the info on Styrene. Back on the table as an option if it can handle contact cement.

If you are in New York, look around for a sign/graphics shop near you and see if you can buy some of their scrap. You need lots of small pieces, they want large pieces and will have lots of small waste. I worked in a sign shop and we tossed buckets of small waste pieces.
 
If you are in New York, look around for a sign/graphics shop near you and see if you can buy some of their scrap. You need lots of small pieces, they want large pieces and will have lots of small waste. I worked in a sign shop and we tossed buckets of small waste pieces.

Ooooooooh, smart!! Thanks!!
 
Hi Guys, sorry to brake in on this thread, i am working on my own Jon Snow costume at the moment and i was wondering if there is someone on therpf who sells any accurate resin/cold casts Longclaw handles (the wolf part)?
 
Cardboard is another idea, it's cheap and easy to work with. The only down side that it's kind of soft and flexible but you probably could stiffen it up easily with a bit of watered down white glue in a sort paper mache approach.
 
After reading through the posts, IMO I’d go with the plastic sign idea. It’s light, easy to cut, cheap, the right stiffness and readily available. Even if you don’t find a shop that will give you scrap, a few “Beware of the dog” signs from Lowe’s should yield enough material for the plates.

I would then cut the plates from the plastic, contact cement them to the uncut faux leather, cut the leather after they are cured and laminated. Then, finish the edges with Mod Podge and paint to make them look really finished.

Good luck and happy building!
 
I was going to toss my two cents in with heading to your local Goodwill, Thrift Store, or Dollar Store and grabbing a couple thick plastic waste paper baskets. I've seen Batman, Iron Man and Boba Fett armor created from them.
 
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