TFA Graflex Research (That's a Graflex, right? Force Awakens teaser trailer #2)

tomleech · Aug 26, 2016

I turned a vintage eye :S I had one spare with damaged knurling so I didn't feel too terrible doing it

cjchiu said:
Did you turn a vintage eye or is that replica?

SethS · Aug 26, 2016

Do you guys all have access to big lathes, or do you have the table top variety? Been considering one to make my own emitters and extensions for all the weirdo 2 cell flashes I get for custom sabers.

thd9791 · Aug 27, 2016

tomleech said:
Hey guys, I've 'finished' my vintage TFA saber I used the Graflex 2.0 grips as potentially temporary options to make it look different from my ESB. I also went with the Maz box saber, again to differentiate. I accidentally cut the grips half a mm shorter than Roy's calculated dimensions but ended up with the grips looking much further than half a mil from the end than the movie saber, so I'm not sure what happened there:

View attachment 658062 View attachment 658063 View attachment 658064

Not quite sure why the RPF upload decided to rotate the images there...

Here it is in all its screenshot comparison glory

View attachment 658065 View attachment 658066 View attachment 658067

Thanks again to Roy for his screen accurate parts kit

God yours looks so much better :lol

TIGCreations · Aug 27, 2016

My sentiments exactly.

dante2887 · Aug 28, 2016

Did you drill an extra hole past the one that is already there in the kit so the T-grips are raised from the bottom? I have a 2.(1) kit and really want to do what you did!

TIGCreations · Aug 30, 2016

SethS said:
Do you guys all have access to big lathes, or do you have the table top variety? Been considering one to make my own emitters and extensions for all the weirdo 2 cell flashes I get for custom sabers.

I don't have anything, except a cordless drill, a screw, a washer, and a nut to turn it.

slothfurnace · Aug 30, 2016

For what it's worth, my translucent TFA cards are here...

And though they're not as clear as I'd like, they are nice translucent FR4 PCB material, gold plated traces - selling them cheaper than my other cards as they didn't turn out quite as clear as I'd hoped. - $15, free shipping as always.

www.slothfurnace.com

Kylash · Aug 30, 2016

now if we could somehow take the traces off yours and put it on Roys card, we'd be set!

Halliwax · Aug 30, 2016

just ordered mine, thanks sloth!!

Sym-Cha · Aug 31, 2016

Hi dante2887,

welcome aboard with your first post ... I'll quote your question again so it will gather the reply you're looking for from tomleech

Chaim

dante2887 said:
Did you drill an extra hole past the one that is already there in the kit so the T-grips are raised from the bottom? I have a 2.(1) kit and really want to do what you did!

fightercaptured · Aug 31, 2016

just placed my order Bradley! Thanks!

tomleech · Sep 1, 2016

SethS said:
Do you guys all have access to big lathes, or do you have the table top variety? Been considering one to make my own emitters and extensions for all the weirdo 2 cell flashes I get for custom sabers.

I have a small lathe (a little under 6x12" working area) that works well for lightsabering purposes

thd9791 said:
God yours looks so much better :lol

Better than what? Surely not the filming prop!

dante2887 said:
Did you drill an extra hole past the one that is already there in the kit so the T-grips are raised from the bottom? I have a 2.(1) kit and really want to do what you did!

I actually used the ANH style grips and flipped them so the original 'peg' for mounting in the 2.0 was nowhere near the rivet channel I cut in the grips

I also cut that peg off...

Halliwax · Sep 1, 2016

tomleech said:
Hey guys, I've 'finished' my vintage TFA saber I used the Graflex 2.0 grips as potentially temporary options to make it look different from my ESB. I also went with the Maz box saber, again to differentiate. I accidentally cut the grips half a mm shorter than Roy's calculated dimensions but ended up with the grips looking much further than half a mil from the end than the movie saber, so I'm not sure what happened there:

View attachment 658062 View attachment 658063 View attachment 658064

Not quite sure why the RPF upload decided to rotate the images there...

Here it is in all its screenshot comparison glory

View attachment 658065 View attachment 658066 View attachment 658067

Thanks again to Roy for his screen accurate parts kit

I don't know how I missed this. beautiful job!! where did you find that stand for the saber?! that's a genius design

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

tomleech · Sep 1, 2016

halliwax said:
I don't know how I missed this. beautiful job!! where did you find that stand for the saber?! that's a genius design

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thank you

It's my own 3d printed stand based on the PropShop ones for their lightsabers

I might start an interest thread if I ever hit the required post number :lol I've got a few different stand designs and I always get comments wherever I post saber pictures so maybe I should take the hint

Halliwax · Sep 1, 2016

tomleech said:
Thank you It's my own 3d printed stand based on the PropShop ones for their lightsabers I might start an interest thread if I ever hit the required post number :lol I've got a few different stand designs and I always get comments wherever I post saber pictures so maybe I should take the hint

oh defiantly count me in on a stand if you do! wicked nice!

Kylash · Sep 1, 2016

I went ahead and just got some TCSS grips with the precut notches. They look close enough for me, and will save me the paint of cutting the notches, and are rubber (which we think they used?).

puffchin · Sep 6, 2016

Hi all, today I finished my TFA Finn Hero

. I started with the 2.0 as a base and for what its worth its pretty bang on. It'll be great for electronics too if I choose to go that route later down the line.. I used Roy's TFA set and KR Sabers emitter screw, blade plug, and slide switch. I had a spare beer tab from my ESB conversion and it fits great on the 2.0. I painted the 2.0 button burgandy but instead decided to go vintage. For the Koblold I used two old phillips screws from an old lightsaber toy mostly because I like the aesthetic. For the grips, I had a couple options- I had the stock 2.0 ESB grips, TCSS rubber grips, the 2.0 ANH grips that I could manually notch, or Roy's grips that came with the TFA set. I originally planned on using the ANH grips but I found the plastic to be pretty unforgiving so I used Roy's. I cut the grips so the dimensions of the notches are accurate and the overall length is long enough to keep a 3.5 mm gap from the clamp. I knew that if I cut the grips to an accurate 88mm then the gap between grip and clamp would exceed 3.5mm. I think they're 91mm, same as the 2.0 grips. For the rivets, I took the pins out, cut off the heads and super glued them to the grips which were then super glued to the 2.0. I'm pretty pleased with how smooth this process went and wish I did this on my ESB. Anyways, here it is:

CharlemagneXVII · Sep 6, 2016

slothfurnace said:
For what it's worth, my translucent TFA cards are here...

http://www.slothfurnace.com/images/clampcard/TranslucentTFACard.jpg

And though they're not as clear as I'd like, they are nice translucent FR4 PCB material, gold plated traces - selling them cheaper than my other cards as they didn't turn out quite as clear as I'd hoped. - $15, free shipping as always.

www.slothfurnace.com

How thick are your cards?

Kylo1 · Sep 7, 2016

puffchin said:
Hi all, today I finished my TFA Finn Hero . I started with the 2.0 as a base and for what its worth its pretty bang on. It'll be great for electronics too if I choose to go that route later down the line.. I used Roy's TFA set and KR Sabers emitter screw, blade plug, and slide switch. I had a spare beer tab from my ESB conversion and it fits great on the 2.0. I painted the 2.0 button burgandy but instead decided to go vintage. For the Koblold I used two old phillips screws from an old lightsaber toy mostly because I like the aesthetic. For the grips, I had a couple options- I had the stock 2.0 ESB grips, TCSS rubber grips, the 2.0 ANH grips that I could manually notch, or Roy's grips that came with the TFA set. I originally planned on using the ANH grips but I found the plastic to be pretty unforgiving so I used Roy's. I cut the grips so the dimensions of the notches are accurate and the overall length is long enough to keep a 3.5 mm gap from the clamp. I knew that if I cut the grips to an accurate 88mm then the gap between grip and clamp would exceed 3.5mm. I think they're 91mm, same as the 2.0 grips. For the rivets, I took the pins out, cut off the heads and super glued them to the grips which were then super glued to the 2.0. I'm pretty pleased with how smooth this process went and wish I did this on my ESB. Anyways, here it is:
View attachment 661631 View attachment 661632 View attachment 661629 View attachment 661630

Nice job Puffchin. :thumbsup

roygilsing · Sep 7, 2016

Hi everybody!

I'm trying to estimate if there's enough demand to do a run for an accurate beer tab replica for owners of a Korbanth 2.0 Graflex who are unhappy with the beer tab that comes with it.
What do you say? It'll be made in stainless steel and the price $10 including shipping (as always).
Please share in other threads or point me to it please! Thanks.

Roy
www.wannawanga.com

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