verdaera
Active Member
I'm thinking those are more like pin-tucks instead of pleats though, on her pants, with how raised they are?
ROGUE ONE Jyn Erso - open build thread!
- Thread starter clembot
- Start date
I'm thinking those are more like pin-tucks instead of pleats though, on her pants, with how raised they are?
verdaera
Active Member
An observation on this guy... the "bloodstripes" on the arm don't appear to be satin stitches like Han's pants were. This picture is so high rez you can see stitches and the twill weave of some of the fabrics, and I see no stitch detail in the stripes, so it's either some kind of very tight fill stitch, or I'm thinking possibly suede pieces that are adhered on.
smithjohnj
Sr Member
I love the hi-res Attachment 613073 clembot provided. While working on the details of the vest I notice something I do know if anyone has yet mentioned. In the vest's right chest pocket there are two objects; first a cylindrical object with a clip. Beside it there is another more complex cylinder which is attached to what appears to be the folded down arm of a pair of eyeglasses. That might make this object an optical/monocle element which we have not yet seen..
EDIT What I original thought to be the arm of a pair of eyeglasses was instead a "deep carry" pocket clip of the "code cylinder".
EDIT What I original thought to be the arm of a pair of eyeglasses was instead a "deep carry" pocket clip of the "code cylinder".
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verdaera
Active Member
I ordered my Black Diamond gloves in the X-Small size, here's a picture for reference.
My hands are 3" across and 6 1/2" long for reference if this helps anyone. I was pretty much expecting to take these apart to do the circle stitching and heavier top stitching anyway, I'm going to have to find a way to take them in. I can probably move the palm pad over on the outside and remove some extra from the side. In one of the close ups, it looks to me like they reversed the seam allowance on the fingers so there wasn't the bulk from being turned.
My hands are 3" across and 6 1/2" long for reference if this helps anyone. I was pretty much expecting to take these apart to do the circle stitching and heavier top stitching anyway, I'm going to have to find a way to take them in. I can probably move the palm pad over on the outside and remove some extra from the side. In one of the close ups, it looks to me like they reversed the seam allowance on the fingers so there wasn't the bulk from being turned.
CarpElgin
Member
I haven't worked with 3D printing before, so I have no idea how successful would it be to print a sheath to cover an existing (cheap) expanding baton? Since many of them open with a "flick of the wrist," flicking the handle open should have the same effect?
CarpElgin
Member
Good call on the fingers! I totally missed that, and it's exactly what I need to correct the fit on my XS gloves!
smithjohnj
Sr Member
In looking at the detailed photos (of Jyn's boots) it does not look like there is a zipper on the inside seam of her pants. However I did notice something in one of the detailed photos of the pant leg. Starting at the center front seam and moving toward the outside seam, there is the first of what was identified as pleats and later identified as pin tucks. For ease of discussion here I will call these pin tucks. I believe the others are pin tucks but that is first “one” may be the overlap “fly” of the zipper which would be needed to put on these pants. I base this on two observations. The first is the shadow line of this vertical element is much darker than the other pin tucks which might indicate greater depth and might be what led some to believe this was a “pleat”. The second reason is that near the top of that “tuck” the spacing seems slightly wider. This of course could be from the draping of the fabric, but it could also be because the overlap edge on top has ballooned out from the lower fabric. I would be interested in your thoughts.
So in looking at the pant photos I count the vertical lines as one center front seam,a top-stitched fly, eight(?) pin tucks and the outside seam.
EDIT: Better photos show there are no zippers in the pant legs.
So in looking at the pant photos I count the vertical lines as one center front seam,a top-stitched fly, eight(?) pin tucks and the outside seam.
EDIT: Better photos show there are no zippers in the pant legs.
Last edited by a moderator:
smithjohnj
Sr Member
This is a compilation of some of my observations based purely on the photos which have been supplied in this thread. I have no special insight or access to information so any verification, corrections or additions to these ideas are welcome.
Jyn’s outermost, top garment is a lined, padded vest. The basic garment seems to be composed of a left and right front, a one-piece back, a tab collar and an elasticized waistband. This post contains my ideas about the front and the waistband.
The vest fronts are made from a twill weave fabric which has been decorated with rows of horizontal, machine straight stitching which runs perpendicular to the grainline. I will refer to this as “decorated fabric”. The stitch setting is 10 to the inch or 2.5 millimeter and the rows are 1 centimeter apart. These measurement assumptions were used to “determine” all of the other dimensions of this garment, but where possible these measurements were compared to real world elements in an attempt to verify both the measurements and the elements. For example using these assumptions the webbing on the right vest front is 1 inch (or 25 mm) wide, the waistband elastic is 2 inches (50 mm) wide and the “name tapes” on the upper chest are 30 mm in height. One caution with any of my numbers – I am biased to the use of “round” numbers which may or may not be complete accurate. One example is assuming the name tapes is 10 cm wide. I assume someone actually designed and measured the length as opposed to cut a length the “looked right” (but again the actual length might be 9.5 or 10.5 cm which are just as “round”). My final sizing design was also verified against a commercial pattern (Butterick B6328) and compares well to a Size 10-12 of that pattern.
The next layer of construction detail is a series of hand-stitched rows which roughly follow the vertical grainline of the fabric but also conform somewhat to the shape of the front piece. This stitching is a running stitch. In following the thread from bottom to top, the thread goes into the fabric at each horizontal row, comes back out of the fabric 0.5 cm higher in the middle of the space between the horizontal rows, and then back in 0.5 cm higher at the next horizontal row. This makes these vertical stitches appear to “hang” from the horizontal rows. On the right front as measured at the waistband, the first vertical row is located approximately 6.8 cm from the front’s inside edge. The second row is approximately 6.8 cm to the right of the first. I assume there is a third vertical 6.8 cm to the right of the second row which is not shown in any of the photos so far. These vertical rows divide the front roughly into four equal width columns. When viewed at the edge, the vest seems to have some depth and also to be lined. I believe the vertical stitches are not merely decorative, but also serve to baste or quilt an inner layer of batting or padding material to the front. The interior facings for the inside lining are cut from decorated fabric which is seen at the vest’s front edges. Based on the color of some photos it has been speculated the rest of the lining might be the orange of a fighter pilot jumpsuit. EDIT: In the later "beach photos" from the Celebrations Reel this lining appears more red than orange but I am not sure there is a definitive answer on the exact color yet.
At the bottom of the vest is an elasticized waist band. The band is 50 cm high (using standard 2-inch wide elastic). The band starts 35 mm to the right of the right front edge, circles the body and ends 35 mm to the left of the left front edge. The first 50 cm and the last 50 cm of the band are stiff “tabs” which do not contain elastic but provide the anchors for it. Coming from inside (left) edge the right waist tab are two metal buckle plates. On the outside of the left waist tab is what member sahrchitect refers to as a card device. Once the tabs and waistband casing (with elastic) has been constructed a series of four horizontal rows, again 1 cm apart are stitched parallel to the bottom edge from end-to-end. All four rows are sewn with the elastic stretched and the casing fabric taut. When the sewing is complete, releasing the stretching tension will provide the characteristic shirring of the waistband. The vest is designed such that the bottom of vest front (or top of the vest waistband) comes down to the height of the top edge of the wearer’s pant waistband.
The right front has three main elements, a name tape, a semi-bellowed pocket and a “web greeblie”.
The name tape is 30 x 100 mm. It is attached to the vest front with six vertical lines of stitching. There is a stitch line at the end of each short side, another set approximated 1.5 cm in from each end, and a third set 4.5 cm in from each end. The middle pair of lines is therefore about 7 cm apart. The vertical quilting stitches (which were 6.8 cm apart at the waistband) seem to align with these stitches at the height of the name tape. The hand-stitched lines do not seem to be used to attach the name tape but are in place prior to the tapes being added. Also to align this way, the “vertical” stitches must not strictly follow the grainline. Perhaps because of the placement I am assuming the name tape is a piece of 30 mm wide black Velcro loop tape. The 30 mm wide loop tape is available in the United Kingdom but is not as easily found in the States
.
The chest pocket appears to be made from two pieces; a pocket face and a pocket gusset. The pocket face is 10 cm wide, 18 cm tall on the inside edge, dropping to 11 cm height on the outside edge. On the lower outside edge is a rounded corner with a radius of 3 cm. (I am working on a pattern for all of this including the pocket which I will provide later is anyone is interested. I am providing the measurements now so others can verify or question my assumptions.) The top edge of the pocket has three lines of top-stitching which parallel the top edge; the first spaced 1 cm down from the edge and the others also 1 cm apart.
The gusset is required to produce what I am calling a partial-bellow pocket. The outside right edge expands or bellows like a cargo pocket, but the inside left edge near the webbing is sewn tightly to the vest. From the photos the bellowed side can be seen. My evidence for the lack of a bellow on the left edge is that the weight of the objects in the pocket are straining the vest front, not pulling out from the vest. There is also a well-defined stitch line at the pocket’s left edge. The distance the pocket can bellow is questionable. The cylindrical object in the pocket, which seems to be attached to an eyeglasses arm, is approximately 25 mm, so I am using that as my starting point until better information is available.
It is important to note that the rounded corner cannot bellow as the length of the curve on any inside fold would have to be shorter than the length of the outside curve. (This is the same reason you need to cut out wedges of material from an inside curve seam for it to lie flat and not buckle). Instead the width of the gusset appears to remain constant for the length of the rounded corner. The bottom straight edge of the pocket can again allow for a bellow but since as already noted it narrows to nothing at the left edge it may not make sense to provide a bellow in that portion of the gusset. (If anyone has a clever idea of now to produce a gusset that will transition from the bellow to the constant rounded corner to another bellow, I would be very interested in your design. I have something which seems to match the photographic evidence, but it is contrived and I would like something better).
One additional observation on the vest pocket is there seems to be some “distressing” and “staging”. In addition to the normal construction seam lines for the face and gusset, there appears to be some hand-topstitching with a heavier weight thread. The goes from the lower left corner, along the bottom, and up the right edge. Along this right edge at about the halfway point, the topstitch thread seems to “clinch” a permanent crease into the pocket. If nothing else it provides a little more interest to the otherwise flat pocket face.
The third vest element is the greeblie. This assembly is made of several sub-elements. The base is 1 inch (25 mm) woven webbing. The web is 27 cm long with a square cut top edge and a rounded bottom edge. In the center of the rounded bottom there appears to be the post portion of a military style snap. At the top of the web there is a hook which is attached with a piece of narrower (20 mm) and thinner webbing. The length of the upper layer of this webbing is 25 mm. The hook has been identified as coming from a ROK strap. After paying $8.50 for the least expensive version I could find, I humbly offer a differing opinion. Here are the differences I find. The ROK hook (I bought) is coated in black vinyl, the photo version seems to be bare metal. The front of the ROK juts approximately 25 mm from the face of the fabric, instead of what I believe is only 10 mm. The ROK cross bar is located at 15 mm above the bottom of the hook and is integral to the hook instead of being about 3 mm above the bottom and being a separate piece which has been solder/welded on. In both cases the hook seems to be made of 1/8 inch or 3 mm steel rod. I have made a sample from a piece of coat hanger wire (which is a little too small) which I think I can attach the cross bar with epoxy. I believe this provides a more visually accurate and cheaper alternative to the ROK.
Between the hook and the snap there is a hose sub-assembly. The main ingredient of this sub-assembly is a series of four rubber tubes. These appear to be tubes instead of solid rubber as when the element turns a bend or in inserted into a hole there is some subtle deformation. Beadalon makes black rubber tubing for beading. It comes in 6 mm and 4 mm sizes. The four hoses sub-assembly fits within width of the web base so 4 mm is being used. On the right vest, the tubing starts at the bottom slightly above the snap. The four tubes are held in place by what I will call a hose clip. (I am still working of the detail of this but the clip but I believe I can fabricate them with two flat piece of rectangular black styrene plastic which are offset from one another and glued together, the side view would be something like;
=============
=======
In the larger surface there are four, 4 mm holes drilled side-by-side which the tubing passes through. The short rectangle is always against the fabric but can be positioned with large rectangle either up or down. (Since the method of attachment is unknown at this time I will add two sets of “button holes” in the small surface so I can use my sewing machine to attach the clips to the fabric.). Seven clips will be required, four on the right and three on the left.
For the right side, the tubing comes from the lower front clip #1 (long rectangle down) up the outside of the vest to an upper outside clip #2 (long rectangle up). The tubing goes through the holes in the clip and then into the body of the vest (between the vest and the vest lining). On the inside of the vest the tubing comes to the surface of the lining through the holes of the upper inside clip #3 (long rectangle up). The position of clip #3 is approximately 15 mm above clip #2 (Clip #2 on the outside and #3 on the inside of the vest). From clip #3 the tubing runs down the inside of the vest to clip #4 (long rectangle down). At this point the tubing runs through the holes in the clip and are cut off. Clip #4 is positioned approximately 0.5 mm above clip #1 (Clip #1 on the outside and clip #4 on the inside of the vest). The other three clips are used on the left vest front with a few differences. On the left front, there is no underlying web base. Also, instead of starting with a clip, the tubing starts with a “hose connector” which hangs down to the bottom of the vest’s waistband. The design of the hose connector is still in progress. On the left front the tubing runs from the connector up the outside to upper outside clip #2, up and through vest between the front and the lining to upper inside clip #3 and down the inside ending at lower inside clip #4.
Jyn’s outermost, top garment is a lined, padded vest. The basic garment seems to be composed of a left and right front, a one-piece back, a tab collar and an elasticized waistband. This post contains my ideas about the front and the waistband.
The vest fronts are made from a twill weave fabric which has been decorated with rows of horizontal, machine straight stitching which runs perpendicular to the grainline. I will refer to this as “decorated fabric”. The stitch setting is 10 to the inch or 2.5 millimeter and the rows are 1 centimeter apart. These measurement assumptions were used to “determine” all of the other dimensions of this garment, but where possible these measurements were compared to real world elements in an attempt to verify both the measurements and the elements. For example using these assumptions the webbing on the right vest front is 1 inch (or 25 mm) wide, the waistband elastic is 2 inches (50 mm) wide and the “name tapes” on the upper chest are 30 mm in height. One caution with any of my numbers – I am biased to the use of “round” numbers which may or may not be complete accurate. One example is assuming the name tapes is 10 cm wide. I assume someone actually designed and measured the length as opposed to cut a length the “looked right” (but again the actual length might be 9.5 or 10.5 cm which are just as “round”). My final sizing design was also verified against a commercial pattern (Butterick B6328) and compares well to a Size 10-12 of that pattern.
The next layer of construction detail is a series of hand-stitched rows which roughly follow the vertical grainline of the fabric but also conform somewhat to the shape of the front piece. This stitching is a running stitch. In following the thread from bottom to top, the thread goes into the fabric at each horizontal row, comes back out of the fabric 0.5 cm higher in the middle of the space between the horizontal rows, and then back in 0.5 cm higher at the next horizontal row. This makes these vertical stitches appear to “hang” from the horizontal rows. On the right front as measured at the waistband, the first vertical row is located approximately 6.8 cm from the front’s inside edge. The second row is approximately 6.8 cm to the right of the first. I assume there is a third vertical 6.8 cm to the right of the second row which is not shown in any of the photos so far. These vertical rows divide the front roughly into four equal width columns. When viewed at the edge, the vest seems to have some depth and also to be lined. I believe the vertical stitches are not merely decorative, but also serve to baste or quilt an inner layer of batting or padding material to the front. The interior facings for the inside lining are cut from decorated fabric which is seen at the vest’s front edges. Based on the color of some photos it has been speculated the rest of the lining might be the orange of a fighter pilot jumpsuit. EDIT: In the later "beach photos" from the Celebrations Reel this lining appears more red than orange but I am not sure there is a definitive answer on the exact color yet.
At the bottom of the vest is an elasticized waist band. The band is 50 cm high (using standard 2-inch wide elastic). The band starts 35 mm to the right of the right front edge, circles the body and ends 35 mm to the left of the left front edge. The first 50 cm and the last 50 cm of the band are stiff “tabs” which do not contain elastic but provide the anchors for it. Coming from inside (left) edge the right waist tab are two metal buckle plates. On the outside of the left waist tab is what member sahrchitect refers to as a card device. Once the tabs and waistband casing (with elastic) has been constructed a series of four horizontal rows, again 1 cm apart are stitched parallel to the bottom edge from end-to-end. All four rows are sewn with the elastic stretched and the casing fabric taut. When the sewing is complete, releasing the stretching tension will provide the characteristic shirring of the waistband. The vest is designed such that the bottom of vest front (or top of the vest waistband) comes down to the height of the top edge of the wearer’s pant waistband.
The right front has three main elements, a name tape, a semi-bellowed pocket and a “web greeblie”.
The name tape is 30 x 100 mm. It is attached to the vest front with six vertical lines of stitching. There is a stitch line at the end of each short side, another set approximated 1.5 cm in from each end, and a third set 4.5 cm in from each end. The middle pair of lines is therefore about 7 cm apart. The vertical quilting stitches (which were 6.8 cm apart at the waistband) seem to align with these stitches at the height of the name tape. The hand-stitched lines do not seem to be used to attach the name tape but are in place prior to the tapes being added. Also to align this way, the “vertical” stitches must not strictly follow the grainline. Perhaps because of the placement I am assuming the name tape is a piece of 30 mm wide black Velcro loop tape. The 30 mm wide loop tape is available in the United Kingdom but is not as easily found in the States
.
The chest pocket appears to be made from two pieces; a pocket face and a pocket gusset. The pocket face is 10 cm wide, 18 cm tall on the inside edge, dropping to 11 cm height on the outside edge. On the lower outside edge is a rounded corner with a radius of 3 cm. (I am working on a pattern for all of this including the pocket which I will provide later is anyone is interested. I am providing the measurements now so others can verify or question my assumptions.) The top edge of the pocket has three lines of top-stitching which parallel the top edge; the first spaced 1 cm down from the edge and the others also 1 cm apart.
The gusset is required to produce what I am calling a partial-bellow pocket. The outside right edge expands or bellows like a cargo pocket, but the inside left edge near the webbing is sewn tightly to the vest. From the photos the bellowed side can be seen. My evidence for the lack of a bellow on the left edge is that the weight of the objects in the pocket are straining the vest front, not pulling out from the vest. There is also a well-defined stitch line at the pocket’s left edge. The distance the pocket can bellow is questionable. The cylindrical object in the pocket, which seems to be attached to an eyeglasses arm, is approximately 25 mm, so I am using that as my starting point until better information is available.
It is important to note that the rounded corner cannot bellow as the length of the curve on any inside fold would have to be shorter than the length of the outside curve. (This is the same reason you need to cut out wedges of material from an inside curve seam for it to lie flat and not buckle). Instead the width of the gusset appears to remain constant for the length of the rounded corner. The bottom straight edge of the pocket can again allow for a bellow but since as already noted it narrows to nothing at the left edge it may not make sense to provide a bellow in that portion of the gusset. (If anyone has a clever idea of now to produce a gusset that will transition from the bellow to the constant rounded corner to another bellow, I would be very interested in your design. I have something which seems to match the photographic evidence, but it is contrived and I would like something better).
One additional observation on the vest pocket is there seems to be some “distressing” and “staging”. In addition to the normal construction seam lines for the face and gusset, there appears to be some hand-topstitching with a heavier weight thread. The goes from the lower left corner, along the bottom, and up the right edge. Along this right edge at about the halfway point, the topstitch thread seems to “clinch” a permanent crease into the pocket. If nothing else it provides a little more interest to the otherwise flat pocket face.
The third vest element is the greeblie. This assembly is made of several sub-elements. The base is 1 inch (25 mm) woven webbing. The web is 27 cm long with a square cut top edge and a rounded bottom edge. In the center of the rounded bottom there appears to be the post portion of a military style snap. At the top of the web there is a hook which is attached with a piece of narrower (20 mm) and thinner webbing. The length of the upper layer of this webbing is 25 mm. The hook has been identified as coming from a ROK strap. After paying $8.50 for the least expensive version I could find, I humbly offer a differing opinion. Here are the differences I find. The ROK hook (I bought) is coated in black vinyl, the photo version seems to be bare metal. The front of the ROK juts approximately 25 mm from the face of the fabric, instead of what I believe is only 10 mm. The ROK cross bar is located at 15 mm above the bottom of the hook and is integral to the hook instead of being about 3 mm above the bottom and being a separate piece which has been solder/welded on. In both cases the hook seems to be made of 1/8 inch or 3 mm steel rod. I have made a sample from a piece of coat hanger wire (which is a little too small) which I think I can attach the cross bar with epoxy. I believe this provides a more visually accurate and cheaper alternative to the ROK.
Between the hook and the snap there is a hose sub-assembly. The main ingredient of this sub-assembly is a series of four rubber tubes. These appear to be tubes instead of solid rubber as when the element turns a bend or in inserted into a hole there is some subtle deformation. Beadalon makes black rubber tubing for beading. It comes in 6 mm and 4 mm sizes. The four hoses sub-assembly fits within width of the web base so 4 mm is being used. On the right vest, the tubing starts at the bottom slightly above the snap. The four tubes are held in place by what I will call a hose clip. (I am still working of the detail of this but the clip but I believe I can fabricate them with two flat piece of rectangular black styrene plastic which are offset from one another and glued together, the side view would be something like;
=============
=======
In the larger surface there are four, 4 mm holes drilled side-by-side which the tubing passes through. The short rectangle is always against the fabric but can be positioned with large rectangle either up or down. (Since the method of attachment is unknown at this time I will add two sets of “button holes” in the small surface so I can use my sewing machine to attach the clips to the fabric.). Seven clips will be required, four on the right and three on the left.
For the right side, the tubing comes from the lower front clip #1 (long rectangle down) up the outside of the vest to an upper outside clip #2 (long rectangle up). The tubing goes through the holes in the clip and then into the body of the vest (between the vest and the vest lining). On the inside of the vest the tubing comes to the surface of the lining through the holes of the upper inside clip #3 (long rectangle up). The position of clip #3 is approximately 15 mm above clip #2 (Clip #2 on the outside and #3 on the inside of the vest). From clip #3 the tubing runs down the inside of the vest to clip #4 (long rectangle down). At this point the tubing runs through the holes in the clip and are cut off. Clip #4 is positioned approximately 0.5 mm above clip #1 (Clip #1 on the outside and clip #4 on the inside of the vest). The other three clips are used on the left vest front with a few differences. On the left front, there is no underlying web base. Also, instead of starting with a clip, the tubing starts with a “hose connector” which hangs down to the bottom of the vest’s waistband. The design of the hose connector is still in progress. On the left front the tubing runs from the connector up the outside to upper outside clip #2, up and through vest between the front and the lining to upper inside clip #3 and down the inside ending at lower inside clip #4.
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smithjohnj
Sr Member
Pant sliders and Vest Greeblie. In post #35 of this thread Darth Lars commented that the slider on Jyn’s pants seems the same as those used on the X-Wing Fighters flak vest. I searched “The Ultimate X-Wing Pilot Thread” and found the references. So all of the specifics are available here, the original post was;
JHVanOphem
Jan 9, 2006, 2:34 PM -#32
Yeah I have the flak vest one [slider], I got mine surplus with a sleeping bag holder. In fact it also provided me with the 1-inch OD straps for my box. Cost me a whole dollar (Canadian.)
I found them still currently available on eBay. This is not a recommendation but here is one such offering.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-U-S...809676?hash=item51b0dfd38c:g:wMMAAOxy06hSFRVz
You may be able to find them cheaper at a surplus store as I did. There are probably other sources for these sliders, but if you are making Jyn Erso’s outfit this one surplus item has several components you can use.
One sleeping bag strap assembly provides;
(2) large 1” sliders needed for the pants. (Some military items use a similar slider without the hole. It depends on what level of accuracy you want to achieve.)
(2) smaller 5/8” sliders of the same style but without a hole in the tab (this size might be more proportional for smaller individuals or children. It is also important to note if you buy another military surplus item, this smaller size is what you might receive whether that is what you want or not.)
(2) 15 inch lengths of 1” cotton webbing with military-style “flip the dot” snap installed for the vest greeblie. (Only one is needed so you’ll have a spare.)
(2) 12 inch lengths of 5/8 inch cotton webbing for attaching the hook to the vest greeblie. (You only need a couple of inches.)
(2) 1” metal tabs for finishing the end of woven webbing. (these may or may not be needed on the pants as it is not clear from any photos I have seen if they are used, but it is still a nice finishing touch.)
And you will still have some extra 1” and 5/8” webbing, some square D-rings, and regular snaps for other projects in the future.
Here are a photos of my original purchase and the deconstructed components ready for repurposing. If you are looking this exact item and cannot read it from the image the printing states 03 STRAP ASSEMBLY CARRYING SLEEPING BAG.
JHVanOphem
Jan 9, 2006, 2:34 PM -#32
Yeah I have the flak vest one [slider], I got mine surplus with a sleeping bag holder. In fact it also provided me with the 1-inch OD straps for my box. Cost me a whole dollar (Canadian.)
I found them still currently available on eBay. This is not a recommendation but here is one such offering.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-U-S...809676?hash=item51b0dfd38c:g:wMMAAOxy06hSFRVz
You may be able to find them cheaper at a surplus store as I did. There are probably other sources for these sliders, but if you are making Jyn Erso’s outfit this one surplus item has several components you can use.
One sleeping bag strap assembly provides;
(2) large 1” sliders needed for the pants. (Some military items use a similar slider without the hole. It depends on what level of accuracy you want to achieve.)
(2) smaller 5/8” sliders of the same style but without a hole in the tab (this size might be more proportional for smaller individuals or children. It is also important to note if you buy another military surplus item, this smaller size is what you might receive whether that is what you want or not.)
(2) 15 inch lengths of 1” cotton webbing with military-style “flip the dot” snap installed for the vest greeblie. (Only one is needed so you’ll have a spare.)
(2) 12 inch lengths of 5/8 inch cotton webbing for attaching the hook to the vest greeblie. (You only need a couple of inches.)
(2) 1” metal tabs for finishing the end of woven webbing. (these may or may not be needed on the pants as it is not clear from any photos I have seen if they are used, but it is still a nice finishing touch.)
And you will still have some extra 1” and 5/8” webbing, some square D-rings, and regular snaps for other projects in the future.
Here are a photos of my original purchase and the deconstructed components ready for repurposing. If you are looking this exact item and cannot read it from the image the printing states 03 STRAP ASSEMBLY CARRYING SLEEPING BAG.
smithjohnj
Sr Member
CarpElgin, after reviewing more photos centered on Jyn's boots I agree there does not seem to be any zippered or other openings on the pants. Based on how the pant hem collapses the pin tucks it is clear they are not corded so there will be some stretch. Thanks for keeping me honest to the design.
smithjohnj
Sr Member
I thought I would share my attempts at modifying the Burda B6132 pattern to produce Jyn Erso’s Blouse. To change the original pattern I raised the neckline and converted the front yoke to a surplice yoke. These changes required the modification to the BACK (piece 5) and FRONT YOKE (piece 3).
I have produced a PDF file for each new piece. If the files come through unchanged, they can be printed on Legal-sized paper and provide full-sized patterns pieces. In order to fit the page, the Front Yoke was sectioned. The very top needs to be joined back to the rest of the pattern piece. One caution, THE BACK IS NOT THE COMPLETE PATTERN PIECE. Since only the neckline was changed, only the top part of the BACK is provided. The partial pattern needs to be aligned and joined to the original piece 3 and then the fabric cut on the foldline just as the original required. I retained the use of 5/8 inch seam allowances to avoid confusion.
What was a single yoke attached to the FRONT (piece 1) is now two separate pieces, a left and right yoke. When attaching to the FRONT arrange the yokes so the left yoke will overlap the right.
In my test garment I was pleased with the look and it seems faithful to the photos provided so far. I also added a Back Facing (cut from the new piece 5) instead of following the Burda instructions (Step 14) of doing a 5/8 inch narrow hem. This added an extra layer of fabric and bulk at the neckline shoulder seams which I do not like so I am interested in other suggestions.
If anyone gives this a try I would be interested in your results and suggestions. I am also interested in others’ approaches to the design as well.
View attachment Jyn Erso Blouse Back.pdf
View attachment Jyn Erso Blouse Yoke.pdf
I have produced a PDF file for each new piece. If the files come through unchanged, they can be printed on Legal-sized paper and provide full-sized patterns pieces. In order to fit the page, the Front Yoke was sectioned. The very top needs to be joined back to the rest of the pattern piece. One caution, THE BACK IS NOT THE COMPLETE PATTERN PIECE. Since only the neckline was changed, only the top part of the BACK is provided. The partial pattern needs to be aligned and joined to the original piece 3 and then the fabric cut on the foldline just as the original required. I retained the use of 5/8 inch seam allowances to avoid confusion.
What was a single yoke attached to the FRONT (piece 1) is now two separate pieces, a left and right yoke. When attaching to the FRONT arrange the yokes so the left yoke will overlap the right.
In my test garment I was pleased with the look and it seems faithful to the photos provided so far. I also added a Back Facing (cut from the new piece 5) instead of following the Burda instructions (Step 14) of doing a 5/8 inch narrow hem. This added an extra layer of fabric and bulk at the neckline shoulder seams which I do not like so I am interested in other suggestions.
If anyone gives this a try I would be interested in your results and suggestions. I am also interested in others’ approaches to the design as well.
View attachment Jyn Erso Blouse Back.pdf
View attachment Jyn Erso Blouse Yoke.pdf
CarpElgin
Member
I am going to have to make some time to compare these with my mock ups today. This is fantastic!
What fabric are you using? My mockup fabric (muslin -us/ calico- uk) is unsurprisingly too thick to lay properly, and I've been wavering between cutting the white lawn in my stash and just buckling down and ordering some. Maybe using an even thinner/finer fabric for the neckline facing? I've recently had a pattern that suggested using a layer of tulle (which would be too scratchy here) to help turn the edges of a patch pocket, maybe something similar would work for the neckline?
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smithjohnj
Sr Member
EDIT: The use of knit fabric for the blouse has been determined to be incorrect.
For the blouse I started with muslin to confirm the basic shape but based on some other comments in the thread, I cut up and repurposed some old cotton jersey t-shirts. The jersey seems to drape well even it is folded over and doubled such as at the front yoke. However at overlapping seams like at the neckline it is too bulky for my taste. There are thinner weight jerseys than I used which might help. I am considering silk jersey for the final garment but the price of the fabric prevents me from "experimenting" with it.
In my testing I was using the same (self) fabric for the facing and CarpElgin's suggestion of using a different lighter fabric could be a good one. Also since only the center and overlap portion of the yoke has the possibility of either the front or back side being visible making part of the "inside" layer of each yoke in a thinner fabric would also reduce the bulk at the shoulder and neck seams. I think I may give both ideas a try. Also all my testing was using a zigzag stitch on a regular sewing machine. I have a serger but I am not as experienced with it. Perhaps a serged seam would also "compress" the bulk better on knit fabric?
For the blouse I started with muslin to confirm the basic shape but based on some other comments in the thread, I cut up and repurposed some old cotton jersey t-shirts. The jersey seems to drape well even it is folded over and doubled such as at the front yoke. However at overlapping seams like at the neckline it is too bulky for my taste. There are thinner weight jerseys than I used which might help. I am considering silk jersey for the final garment but the price of the fabric prevents me from "experimenting" with it.
In my testing I was using the same (self) fabric for the facing and CarpElgin's suggestion of using a different lighter fabric could be a good one. Also since only the center and overlap portion of the yoke has the possibility of either the front or back side being visible making part of the "inside" layer of each yoke in a thinner fabric would also reduce the bulk at the shoulder and neck seams. I think I may give both ideas a try. Also all my testing was using a zigzag stitch on a regular sewing machine. I have a serger but I am not as experienced with it. Perhaps a serged seam would also "compress" the bulk better on knit fabric?
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smithjohnj
Sr Member
Since we have limited insight into her wardrobe changes in the ultimate film, I was wondering how cosplayers current believe they will be representing Jyn? In the trailer we see her in 1) Imperial Stormtrooper armor, 2) in blouse, flak vest, and weaponry for the action scenes, 3) the posed cast and promo photos adding a battle jacket to the blouse and flak vest look.
I am interested in what level of effort and investment the community is aiming for at this early juncture.
I am interested in what level of effort and investment the community is aiming for at this early juncture.
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CJanssen
New Member
Any other screen grabs of this disguise?
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