Power Rangers 2017 Paint

Devilblades

Member
Hello there,

I am trying to replicate the design on the paint job they did for the new power ranger suits. I cannot figure out a way to replicate the pattern. I have tried alternate methods like using plastic wrap. But anyone here have any Idea how to get a very similar look?

new-power-rangers-motion-poster-gives-us-a-helmet-close-up-for-characters-social.jpg
SDCC-2016-Lionsgate-Power-Rangers-2017-Movie-Helmets-Hi-Res-Shots-010.jpg


Here is my attempt with plastic wrap.




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I would probably start with some crackle medium. You'll have to experiment to see if you can get the right amount of crackling with your particular paint. It also looks like some candy colors were used on top. I don't know if that's how they did it, but if I wanted to get close with what I could easily do then that's how I would do it.

-Rog
 
I'm nearly positive WETA 3D printed the helmets to have the pattern engraved on the inside. The helmet and armor pieces are actually completely translucent resin, with the mineral pattern on inside surface. Then metallic paints are painted on the inside of the helmet. The only paint that is on the outside surface is silver.
 
I'm nearly positive WETA 3D printed the helmets to have the pattern engraved on the inside. The helmet and armor pieces are actually completely translucent resin, with the mineral pattern on inside surface. Then metallic paints are painted on the inside of the helmet. The only paint that is on the outside surface is silver.

This is also what I kinda think, but a little different. Here's my take: They 3D printed the base, made a mould of that and cast it in bulk with possible metal powder, or just raw, sprayed it silver on top, then a translucent layer of colour (red, blue, yellow, pink, black), left that to dry. This would be the base. For the smooth finish, I think they printed & finished the outside to a smooth glossy finish, and made a mould of that.

I suspect that the 'inside' layer (the painted one) is then carefully put inside the mould of the smooth finish, and they pour clear resin in it, leave it to cure, remove the mould, clean and polish that, and clearcoat it.

This is what I think they did. But it's more elaborate than just a paint job.
 
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The outer shell is translucent with the crackling on the inside. There a half inch to a inner core. As you can see on the helmet on the back half on the girl.
 
I was thinking though, how would you put the cracked base inside the clean mold to pour the clear resin, or am I just being slow?
 
I was thinking though, how would you put the cracked base inside the clean mold to pour the clear resin, or am I just being slow?

The outer translucent shell is the same piece as the cracked texture. The cracked texture is on the concave side, while the shiny smooth side is the convex side. Metallic/candy paint is applied to the concave side. There is no need to make it as a separate piece.

If we refer to the image below as a cross section:
Grey = translucent resin
Red = coat of metallic/candy red paint
Details not to scale
kWyYaYs.jpg


When the master copy is made, the outside remains smooth, while the mineral crackling is etched onto the inside (concave). Resin casts are made, and metallic/candy paint is applied only to the inside. The etching is shallow enough that 1/8" or 1/4" padding protects the actor from the texture (my theory).
 
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Yeah I misread your original post. It makes sense, but putting a cracked base inside a mould is not as hard as it seems, especially not if you're WETA. But I wouldn't be surprised if they went with your method either. It's one of the two, and the truth is; the inside is cracked, the outside is clear resin. Making that as a replica is doable, but hard work.
 
I see where you're coming from now as well. The method of the cracks inside sounds "quicker" and "easier". Very tempting to try on a scrap piece to see how it turns out.

I wonder though, would you get the same effect laying down the candy red first, then applying the metalic?
 
They used the method of putting sculpted detail in the opposite side of a smooth translucent layer when they made the images inside the power coins as well, so it makes sense they did the same with the helmets.
 
They used the method of putting sculpted detail in the opposite side of a smooth translucent layer when they made the images inside the power coins as well, so it makes sense they did the same with the helmets.

The coins need to let light pass through them. The armor does not. The armor only needs to do fancy refractions. There's no reason to do the armor in 2 pieces.
 
I'm not saying its two pieces. Im saying its made the same as one half of the coins, with a sculpted detail negative opposite a smooth translucent side.

For instance, this is one piece of resin I made, with a concave negative on the opposite side. Same deal, just paint the backside silver and you have the helmets.

17596426_848851561934092_6641113681318903808_n.jpg
 
So your thought is they cast the helmets in a clear tinted resin? I was thinking it was cast clear, and the colour was painted on the under side
 
I'm not saying its two pieces. Im saying its made the same as one half of the coins, with a sculpted detail negative opposite a smooth translucent side.

For instance, this is one piece of resin I made, with a concave negative on the opposite side. Same deal, just paint the backside silver and you have the helmets.

View attachment 717806


Coin looks great, would you mind explaining the process a little bit on how it was achieved. Just trying to wrap my head around the process as i would like to experiment with making some armor pieces this way. Thanks
 
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