New alternative for Solo Blaster

I went ahead and got an AW Custom since it's probably the base for the SOLO blaster. It'll be a pain waiting until the Bluray comes out to do an accurate build though.
 
Just got my AW Custom the other day and played a bit. Anyone notice the bull barrell slipping from not being tight enough? I already took a scratch to the barrell, luckily it won't be seen.
I'm planning to order a 3d printed grill off shapeways and add my mystery disc. It's not going to be 100% but i'm planning to go for ANH version.
 
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Just got my AW Custom the other day and played a bit. Anyone notice the bull barrell slipping from not being tight enough? I already took a scratch to the barrell, luckily it won't be seen.
I'm planning to order a 3d printed grill off shapeways and add my mystery disc. It's not going to be 100% but i'm planning to go for ANH version.

Havent had the slippage issue yet. Where are you getting your mystery disk?
 
Just got my AW Custom the other day and played a bit. Anyone notice the bull barrell slipping from not being tight enough? I already took a scratch to the barrell, luckily it won't be seen.
I'm planning to order a 3d printed grill off shapeways and add my mystery disc. It's not going to be 100% but i'm planning to go for ANH version.

Did you fully remove the orange tip? It has to be completely gone or else the bull barrel won't fully seat (a photo earlier in the thread claimed that the AW bull leaves a gap, but that was because the orange tip on that one clearly hadn't been removed). Once it's seated the single screw should be enough to hold it in place.
 
Did you fully remove the orange tip? It has to be completely gone or else the bull barrel won't fully seat (a photo earlier in the thread claimed that the AW bull leaves a gap, but that was because the orange tip on that one clearly hadn't been removed). Once it's seated the single screw should be enough to hold it in place.

Thanks for the tip. I took a good chunk off but there was a bit remaining.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Anyone know how to safely remove the side switch?? I know how to do it on an hfc m712 but this doesn’t look to be the same.

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I’m designing parts that will convert this aw custom into something more film accurate. I think everyone will very much like what they see [emoji106]
 
Anyone know how to safely remove the side switch?? I know how to do it on an hfc m712 but this doesn’t look to be the same.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180614/0147dd0616a7b0367daaea141ab3ea52.heic

I’m designing parts that will convert this aw custom into something more film accurate. I think everyone will very much like what they see [emoji106]

If I remember right, you can push in on the button and rotate the whole assembly until it lines up just right to pop out. It is easier to see the shaft on the button and how it lines up when the top half is off.
 
If I remember right, you can push in on the button and rotate the whole assembly until it lines up just right to pop out. It is easier to see the shaft on the button and how it lines up when the top half is off.

Thanks man! Very much appreciated. Don’t u need to get that part out first before u can take the top off?
 
Push in on the button to rotate the selector past the N mark, then turn the inner button counter clockwise while pushing in on it slightly. This will release the inner button form the outer selector indicator.

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Then rotate the outer part of the selector switch to this position:

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Then the whole thing will come out. You can see how it is keyed in this view:

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This can be done with the upper barrel assembly on or off, but it's easier to see what you are doing with the top part off.
 
Push in on the button to rotate the selector past the N mark, then turn the inner button counter clockwise while pushing in on it slightly. This will release the inner button form the outer selector indicator.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/888/40993405840_9884b0ae52_c.jpg

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Then rotate the outer part of the selector switch to this position:

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1728/40993405990_1c2e1b2e58_c.jpg

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Then the whole thing will come out. You can see how it is keyed in this view:

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1728/40993406090_2bce6da3a4_c.jpg

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This can be done with the upper barrel assembly on or off, but it's easier to see what you are doing with the top part off.

This is outstanding info!! Thanks ever so much for sharing. [emoji482]
 
I’ve had a few people reach out to me since the release of SOLO to see what my thoughts were on this new SOLO blaster. Im very excited to finally be able to share what I’ve come up with.

Since it seems that the base of this blaster is basically the AWC with some minor mods I figured it’s best to keep it as simple as possible as well.

So what follows is what I’ve come up with to convert your very own AW Custom into a screen accurate Han SOLO:ASWS blaster. All these parts up on shapeways for anyone who is interested..

https://www.shapeways.com/shops/dl-44-blaster?section=9-+SOLO:ASWS&s=0

Basically there is 4 mods to make this screen conversion. (5 if you include the added line in the scope dial)..

- replace the bull barrel
- replace the heat sink grille
- replace the mystery disk
- convert the left side of the airsoft

Originally I was going to redesign the whole flash hider AND bull barrel but since it appears that the flash hider in SOLO is very similar (if not the exact same) to this AWC its best to keep it as simple as possible. Only one mod and you are good to go.

First cut the flash hider off from the bull barrel..

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Then replace it with this bull barrel which I designed directly from pictures of the film prop. (I also have a bull barrel design with the screws “already attached” as well). It will slide tightly right into place, after which reattach the flash hider. Everything will fit nice and snug and flush..


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The next AWC upgrade that is a must is the “Heat Sink Grille” and “Mystery Disk”. Both need to be replaced with parts that are more inline to what was actually on screen in SOLO.

The grille will snap into place and is extremely accurate to what’s seen on screen. Obviously I am a little bias but if you look closely I think you will agree..
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I have yet to do this last mod on the AWC just yet but I do have the parts ready. Including a small plate to smooth out the life side before adding the left side replacement..
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I have replaced the left side on the HFC m712 (taking that airsoft apart is a little different than the AWC) so if you want to get an idea of how to attach it follow this link..
THE FORCE AWAKENS blaster build (HFC m712)


After these simple upgrades your AWC is now SOLOfied [emoji106]
 
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Looks nice, and great attention to detail! Any reason the "fine detail" (formerly frosted detail) material option isn't available? You wouldn't even need filler primer and the split you mention being concerned about on your two-piece version would be better defined on the one-part version :)
 
Looks nice, and great attention to detail! Any reason the "fine detail" (formerly frosted detail) material option isn't available? You wouldn't even need filler primer and the split you mention being concerned about on your two-piece version would be better defined on the one-part version :)

You only need two coats of primer with the this nylon material at most as it’s very smooth especially when u order in polished white. This material is much stronger and more durable than the frosted material. The frosted material is best for parts like this where the detail is super fine (scope wheel)..
6e1ef4d9a5a0fe08e41e7938963e240b.jpg

..but I’ll for sure list for those that are interested. I’d honestly suggest using the nylon personally simply because of its superior strength though.

I think for those that have never used shapeways before or have not used these materials will definitely be in for a treat. We live in some amazing times for sure[emoji482]

Honestly the reason I have the two parts isnt really for loss of detail. It’s mostly because I designed all these parts for myself and I like each to be as accurate as possible. I even have a heat sink grille that is broken down into 3 parts for my own personal builds. Figure for everyone else that might be a little to much [emoji4]

I’ll get these parts painted up today and get some finished pics up as well. Thank you for checking them out [emoji106]
 
You only need two coats of primer with the this nylon material at most as it’s very smooth especially when u order in polished white. This material is much stronger and more durable than the frosted material. The frosted material is best for parts like this where the detail is super fine (scope wheel)..https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180615/6e1ef4d9a5a0fe08e41e7938963e240b.jpg
..but I’ll for sure list for those that are interested. I’d honestly suggest using the nylon personally simply because of its superior strength though.

I think for those that have never used shapeways before or have not used these materials will definitely be in for a treat. We live in some amazing times for sure[emoji482]

Honestly the reason I have the two parts isnt really for loss of detail. It’s mostly because I designed all these parts for myself and I like each to be as accurate as possible. I even have a heat sink grille that is broken down into 3 parts for my own personal builds. Figure for everyone else that might be a little to much [emoji4]

I’ll get these parts painted up today and get some finished pics up as well. Thank you for checking them out [emoji106]

I've been agonizing over picking up an easy snap-in grill from Shapeways, or just going for it and just picking up some more radiators form Reade. Looking over just now, though, I see the only options listed for your listing are "White Processed Versatile Plastic" and "Black Natural Versatile Plastic", plus the "Smooth Fine Detail Plastic" that you seem to recommend against?

My main beef with 3D printed parts are print lines and lack of sharp detail. The latest models seem to do surprisingly well with detail, but I still see print lines even in your example parts. Is there one that can be ordered that does NOT have print lines? (or at least they can be sanded out reasonably easily)
 
Last I heard Reade is out of the business for now due to some medical issues (see here). The fine detail plastic is sharp and has minimal lines - what's not resolved by 5 minutes of light sanding should be hidden by the primer and paint (as mentioned even the versatile plastic will smooth up pretty well with high-build filler primer). Depending on the orientation of the part as it is printed, there could be some faces with slightly rougher texture due to the material that supports overhanging structures, but that's also handled well by the primer. And the fine detail can be brittle when thin, but it's fairly durable on something like the heat sink, unless you're going to be holstering the blaster. I just ordered one and I'll post pics when it arrives so you can get a better idea of the difference between the two materials :)
 
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