The Ultimate Ben Obi-Wan Kenobi Real Vintage Parts Lightsaber Group

http://i833.photobucket.com/albums/...elding 2017-06-14 om 21.19.15_zps7wrf7qoz.png

I enhanced the bubblestrip ... any thoughts what we're looking at? In between the clamp lips ... frosted or not?

Did the same with the emitter connection ... JB Weld as suggested or painted superglue?

http://i833.photobucket.com/albums/...elding 2017-06-14 om 21.21.23_zpssykqvrxp.png

Chaïm
the glue or welding job does seem to expand inside the balance pipe. This to me suggests a plug/spacer in addition to the adhesive.
 
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This is what I finally did.
 
That's nice parfaitelumiere ... though I doubt I will go that far as to sanding those edges ... when I finally come to put my bubblestrip in the clamp :wacko

Chaïm
 
I does look like the bubble strip is outside, or on top, of the clamp lever.

I used to think this until I saw this new higher res image. Now I can see the reflective top of the closer rail, and the inside edge of the farther rail.

I'd also like to point out this shadow, which shows that the rail is higher than the flat surface of the bubble strip:
clampshadow.jpg

Would a straight up "pinch method" assembly still be able to cast this shadow? I quite like parfaitelumiere's solution of sort of splitting the difference. Also, do we know if Roger Christian personally built the Obi-Wan or Vader sabers for ANH as well? I suspect the bubble strip on the ANH Graflex is fully beneath the rails because of how low the bubbles sit in this photo:
0n.jpeg
 
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I did agree with you in a first time and I tried to make a picture...


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I made a attempt and in fact the red circled part is not the bubble ,but the clamp bar.
The bubble is on the top on the shade, and you can see mine is even lower than the original picture but it's because of the very small chamfering I made on the edge.
It's also easy to see there is no way to see the frosty fully rounded or other bubble version on the picture, so the choice remains free.
When I put the clamp on the side like the graflex photo, the visible part of the bubble is also about same height than on the picture, a bit less than the clamp rails, where the bubble goes, but I think my bubble is actually a small bit higher than the one on the graflex saber on the second picture on your message.

I think they probably less or more sanded the underside of bubble and made chamfering as I did so it can match a closed clamp, without moving and without centering issues, it's very easy to do, easier than fixing a moving narrow fully sanded bubble like the one I made for my vintage lightsaber.
 
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I made a attempt and in fact the red circled part is not the bubble ,but the clamp bar.

Ohhhhh, I see! Excellent photo comparison. Is your bubble strip clear, not frosted? If so, I wonder if that suggests a frosted strip on the Obi prop, since the light does not pass through it in the same way it does in your photo. It is a strong direct light.
 
Your idea is good, I think the clear shade on my picture is due to the bubble itself one of the magnifier, and on this area, frosted and not frosted are identical, I admit I was thinking about something like this when I saw the lighter shade on the area, but not sure about it.
Thickness could be the solution.
If I remember correctly frosted have two steps window, one step on each end, making a 2" large window to allow the red plastic parts underneath, and then a second window, same size as the bubble rank alone.
It would be interesting to know the frosted bubble thicnkess with no trimming at all once the ends are cut, I think it may be a bit thinner than the most common bubble, meaning no need to sand it down for a obi saber, just tapering and ends cutting.
What makes me think obi bubble can be a frosted is more the vader anh lightsaber, it has a frosted bubble type exactra board, but without bubble, so the bubble can be somewhere else, obi saber?
 
So I'm going to bring this back to beauty pics for a second and show off what can be accomplished by a night spent in a bonfire pit.

Bought a snipped male balance pipe from Roman about 6 months ago and wanted to return the clean shaved surface back to a nice used look. Pulling from what a couple members here mentioned I tossed it in my neighbors pit last night, from 7:30 pm to 6:30am this morning, washed it up, and this is its current state (with a zoomed in poor quality pic of before). Not sure if replica pipes will do the same but could try I guess. I LIKE IT, a little fine tuning perhaps but it's about where I want it already.

IMG_1470.JPGIMG_1626.JPGIMG_1627.JPGIMG_1628.JPG
 
Grenade question...

My stem is majorly stuck in the frag body. I can't budge it a mm. I tried soaking that connection overnight in coke. No change. I've had wd-40 on it about 5 hours now...still no give.

Anything else I can do or is it perma-stuck?

If it's stuck - i'm thinking getting a bolt in the head to attach to the emitter is going to be less than fun.

Even though it's 1918 ish - i assum CCW is tighten, CW is loosen? yes? I have tried both directions to no avail.
 
Two different materials. Is there maybe something you can do with selective heating/cooling to get the steel frag body to expand a bit relative to the brass? Would that be safe?

I could ask the materials experts at work what might be going on there corrosion-wise, and what would be safe to try. But, you would need to wait a month until I get back from multiple trips. :)



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
Takes a good deal more to heat the steel to expansion than it does for brass. I did try freezing it 24ish hours as well.
 
Just a suggestion: Orient the whole assembly stem down, spray enough WD-40 into the frag body so that it pools (cup-like) on top of the stem in the bottom. Let sit for a few days to allow gravity to pull the liquid deeper into the threads and try another time to loosen the stem.

My two cents...
 
I think 3" might be a bit much but enough so that it would pool a bit. You'll have to plug the stem as well so it doesn't run out of the bottom.
 

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