Peep Williams
Well-Known Member
Unreal.
The original real gun has some opening on top, visible on picture even it's not complete on the replica used for movie.
Question -- what would happen if you buffed with graphite powder, but didn't put the clear coat over it? Would the graphite rub off and your hands every time it was handled?
Those are both handguns that I eventually have plans to mold, but I already have several to knock out over the next few months.I'm always on the look out for a hard rubber or resin Smith & Wesson M&P or HK P30L if you happen to come across either those
I casting small parts with resin usually just ends up being a disappointment. The resin tends to break very easily. The only way to make something with moving parts would be to cast with metal, and I haven't really looked into that much. For now, I'm just doing solid ones.that's really nice and realistic finish.
Didi you think about casting disassembled guns, so you could offer some casts with moving parts like real ones?
The graphite finish is very realistic, bringing kind of bronzing effect and accurate steel look.
I designed a fictive weapon and planned to cast it too, using iron powder inside black or dark resin and then sanding a bit to make steal appear and finally creating rust, it can be interesting for old look replica, for wood I also had a special idea to simulate it, it's more resin work, but would make a solid finish with no painting or clear coat.
The graphite powder rubs off incredibly easily. It definitely needs a clear coat. It does slightly dull the finish though, so you have to apply more than you actually need. It takes a bit of practice, to get it right.Justinian, to echo many others in this thread, your work is *incredible!* Aside from the flawless molding and casting, the graphite finish particularly intrigues me. It makes the Glocks look perfect, and the shine on those revolvers looks every bit like real blued steel. Wow!
Question -- what would happen if you buffed with graphite powder, but didn't put the clear coat over it? Would the graphite rub off on your hands every time it was handled?
wow these look great! would you be able to show a more detailed pic of the revolver moulds?
I do have a very long list of guns to mold, but it gets expensive trying to get some of these older ones. The FN Five-seven is on my list. Unfortunately I will not be casting many of these in parts. It's way too much work, and resin tends to break when casting thin parts. My original goal with these was to create accurate and inexpensive con safe props.I had a couple thoughts/questions:
You should try and copy some iconic propmaking guns, like a broomhandle Mauser or Sterling submachine gun, so people could use them as a base for Star Wars blasters. Or they could just have your really nice replicas.
Have you ever thought of field-stripping the guns before molding and casting them in parts? People could assemble them as kits.
Also, if you can get a hold of one, an FN Five-seveN pistol was the sidearm from Battlestar Galactica, and airsoft ones to use as props are pretty hard to come by. You have to use the original version with the weird round trigger guard. That might be a good one to do.
How do you keep the silicone out of the barrels and other cracks/mechanisms of the gun?