No worries. Next time I use it, I'll see if I can get some data with the larger pressure regulator on the compressor, even if I don't really use it myself.Thanks for the info :thumbsup
Is the white fogging the air flow drying it to quick you think?
Thanks as well for the tips.
I'm as well interested by some experience feedback.
About the drying time, how long would you recommend before clear coating it? I read between 48h and 4 days..
I have found this method to be difficult to replicate consistently. The Tamiya paints just seem to behave differently every time i try it, and my airbrush hates it. Hell of a clean up job everytime.I've been having a play with getting a good gold effect. I think this combination came out best.
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And next to my wedding ring for comparison
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That's molotow sprayed at approx 17psi with a fine top coat of Tamiya clear orange x-26. The clear orange was thinned with Tamiya acrylic thinners x-20A at about 1:1, sprayed at the same psi. I was pushed for time, so it was a quickly run test, I will refine it a bit and take a bit more time.
So Ive found Alclad candy golden yellow. This stuff is awesome.
Any recomendations on 2 part lacquers for airbrushes?Yeah, Alclad's candy is great. Been using it myself because I don't like Alclad's gold tones at all for a real shiny look. You actually don't need to seal the Molotow before shooting it with the candy. (If you want it durable though, I still recommend using a 2-part urethane clear on it. (If you get a compatible candy to use with the urethane, you can skip the Alclad altogether. I did it that way with a couple white metal replicas a few years ago and the surface was rock-hard.
Any recomendations on 2 part lacquers for airbrushes?
Ive seen good candy tints for car sprayers used to do 3P0s, not sure if they'd go through an airbrush or be too thick.
As is.Do you use the Alclad candy golden yellow as is or thinned down?
I've been using UFC35 (I think it's called) from House of Kolor. Goes through an airbrush easily and preserves the metallic shine almost perfectly. (Just be thorough with the cleanup afterward... and do wear a proper filtered breathing mask! Goggles too if you can.)
Thanks for the tip, something special to clean up the UFC-35 ?
Thought I'd just throw these pics in to highlight the molotow, doesn't really warrant it's own thread.
Also used it with candy gold yellow (outlined in previous post) on my coronado cross project.
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So Ive found Alclad candy golden yellow. This stuff is awesome.
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Molotow, left to cure for a few days and a light coat of Alclsd Klear Kote to seal. Then hit with the gold candy yellow at 20psi from about 3" distance with fairly swift strokes.
The 2 highlighted spoons I mixed with Alclad transparent red just to play with it. That was 4drops red to 20 drops gold yellow. Its quite subtle but obviously can be altered to taste.
Ive just used it on my Cross of Coronado project and very happy with it.
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Hey! I know this thread is a bit old, but I was wondering if you could give me some advice here, the gold color on your cross came out phenomenal!!
So you hit it with Molotow, cure for 2 days or so, hit it with the candy gold by Alclad and let that dry? Or do you clear that candy gold as suggested? Do you think I could add a drop of green to that candy gold to bring out a richer gold tone? Thanks a ton man, again this came out awesome!!
And an update for anyone, apparently Liquitex High Gloss Varnish can seal Molotow pretty well and not mess up the clear very bad.
I mixed the red into the candy gold.One more question about this process, if you don’t mind
When you say you “highlighted” the spoons and did the mix as shown above, did you mix the red into the candy gold layer, or mix it into a clear coat and apply after? Again thanks a ton!