So, I got this Heiland flashgun...

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Whovian

Well-Known Member

• Apr 16, 2013

• #21

Reelo said:

So, I'd like to ask you for your opinion here. I'll show you 4 possible configurations here for the shroud and the buttons. Tell me which one of these looks best, or if I should cut up / mod any of the buttons in order to get it even more accurate. Bear in mind that when the shroud is turned so the bulb-release is on top, the holes in the flshgun are wrong. The Heiland script should be on top, but the bulb-release is opposite side then...



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Click to expand...

I like #2 personally.

 

Reelo

Sr Member

• Apr 17, 2013

• #22

Whovian said:

I like #2 personally.

Click to expand...

Heh, looks like you're a little late. I recently got a correct MPP-style bulb release, so all other options are out...

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modelcitizen

Sr Member

• Apr 17, 2013

• #23

the d-ring on a vader is located on the shroud not the endcap. vader liked to be different.

 

Sym-Cha

Master Member

• Apr 17, 2013

• #24

Hi there,

Nice work in progress . . . if you have a D-ring and carefully drill a smaller hole in the shroud and then use
a file to open that hole up in size to fit your D-ring you should be all set to finishing this nice DV lightsaber project.

-Chaim

 

Reelo

Sr Member

• May 10, 2013

• #25

My clamp from Blast-tech arrived today. Needs some fitting and then I can stick on the grips...

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Reelo

Sr Member

• May 10, 2013

• #26

All coming together now...

And I think I got an idea for a nice display...
The endcap features a thread for mounting the flash on a tripod... I found a screw that fits the thread, so I might display the saber upright on some round base, what do you think?


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thd9791

Master Member

RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

• May 10, 2013

• #27

aww that looks sweet!

 

Sym-Cha

Master Member

• May 10, 2013

• #28

and what about the D-ring in the shroud ... here's a picture of mine ... and yes drilled into a vintage MPP :



and here's the real ROTJ MPP ... to show you how the D-ring is attached to give you some inspiration :





-Chaim

 

F

Fyberdyne Labs

Well-Known Member

• May 10, 2013

• #29

Wow great job.
Mark

 

Reelo

Sr Member

• May 10, 2013

• #30

Sym-Cha said:

and what about the D-ring in the shroud ...

Click to expand...

Patience... As soon as I come across a correct-looking D-Ring I'll start worrying about that.



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NeoRutty

Master Member

RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

• May 11, 2013

• #31

Awesome! I love how it's turning out...

This is probably going to be my first replica project... I bought a heiland a while back that is waiting at my friend's in the States (I'm in Canada). I bought it in my new found excitement to build replica sabers, and I'm pretty sure I jumped the gun and it's not quite the right heiland to use. I think the cutaways are more square than rounded... which doesn't seem to be the case with yours. Kinda crappy since if you have to go Heiland over MPP, you kinda want the right heiland.

Oh well... it will still be fun.

 

Reelo

Sr Member

• May 15, 2013

• #32

Two more shots. Fine-tuned the grips to my liking and added rubber rings to the clamp. Now I only need a stand....



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Sym-Cha

Master Member

• May 15, 2013

• #33

Reelo said:

Patience... As soon as I come across a correct-looking D-Ring I'll start worrying about that.

Click to expand...

Well do you like the D-ring I used for my real MPP? ... I have about 9 left ... only thing you need to do is alter the shape as I did or I'll do it for you ... and they also come with a natural weathering nowadays ... ha,ha,ha

-Chaim

 

Reelo

Sr Member

• May 15, 2013

• #34

Well, I've yet to find a good ring, but there's also the question of drilling the holes into the resin shroud. I'm afrzid it might chip or break or something. I still have the real Heiland shroud as a backup, but it's less screen-accurate.

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Gatekeeper

Sr Member

• May 15, 2013

• #35

I ruined a resin shroud when drilling the d-ring holes, so I understand your hesitation. I planned to cut a ring and drill two shallow holes instead of risking to break the shroud when drilling through... maybe not totally accurate, but a bit safer IMO. Food for thought. Oh, and PM coming to you...

 

Reelo

Sr Member

• May 15, 2013

• #36

Thanks foe the PM. As you said, it's risky business. I'm sure the original (metal) shroud would be safer to drill, but I prefer the accuracy of the resin one. Even at the expense of a D-Ring...

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Sym-Cha

Master Member

• May 16, 2013

• #37

As I mentioned before ... I have 9 smaller D-rings left from the batch I purchased for the one
I needed for my MPP lightsaber project. Send me a PM if you'd like to pick and purchase 1 of 9.

Since it is resin/plastic might I suggest drilling it with a sharp piercer or needle by ... eh hand?
That way ... you have still all control to punch through and not a dremel or other drill-machine.

-Chaim

 

Reelo

Sr Member

• Jul 11, 2013

• #38

Some more nice shots... I'm just too proud of this thing...

 

thd9791

Master Member

RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

• Aug 21, 2014

• #39

Necro-posting here, I'm literally in the same boat! Your saber turned out beautiful. I may not change my endcaps (so I can make two) but I have a shroud that I CAN re-paint. Crinkle paint sounds challenging

 

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robpenfold

Active Member

• Aug 25, 2014

• #40

thd9791 said:

Necro-posting here

Click to expand...

I'm glad you resurrected this thread. I just stumbled across it this even and what a happy accident. I just received my Heiland Synchronar today. I got it for a steal on evilbay. So I'm about to under take this very same project.

Reelo, you did a fantastic job on this. Now I need to start my search for parts. Wish me luck.