Allen Hawk
New Member
verdaera; I picked up my leather said:
ROGUE ONE Jyn Erso - open build thread!
- Thread starter clembot
- Start date
Allen Hawk
New Member
Thanks! With your skills please do post your work!!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
spectreseven
Member
Both times I saw the costume in person I thought that the colors of the holster, belt, and boots were almost identical, so you're probably on to something there. They all seemed to be worn down to show hints of red under the brown/black.
Thanks to all of the amazing research in this thread so far. I have ordered the fabric for the shirt and vest, based on the recommendation of others, as well as my canvas Czech backpack and harness. The goal is to have a reasonable outfit for my wife and daughter by celebration.
smithjohnj
Sr Member
Underarm Vest Component
I was thinking the other day I feel like I have ripped out more stitching than I have sewn on my Erso projects. But that is mathematically impossible. Then I remember all of the military surplus items and ski boots I have disassembled to get webbings, hooks, snaps, buckles, etc. and all of the old garments I ripped up to get fabric to run tests. Maybe it is possible.
In that tradition here is my latest demolition effort to obtain ALICE webbing for Jyn's vest. I bought and disassembled an ALICE Clip Adapter which I identified in an earlier post. On the left is the unmodified adapter and on the right are the disassembled components.
The adapter is made of nylon webbing and I selected the Coyote Brown color. By removing three lines of stitching you produce three simpler parts. The first is a 1" x 4 1/2" piece of straight webbing from the rear of the adapter. Second is a piece of 3 1/2" x 4 1/2" webbing with two 1" x 3 3/4" straps with two 24 ligne snaps.
The third part is the ALICE clips webbing I wanted for the vest. This part measures 2 1/4" x 4 1/2". The webbing has two round metal grommets (with an outside diameter of 3/8") the centers are located 1/2" from the top and 13/16" in from the side edges. The shorter edges of the webbing were cut with a heat knife so the woven filaments melted and fused together to make a ravel-free finished edge. Cutting this element in half will produce two, 2 1/4" x 2 1/4" pieces with one grommet on each piece. The grommets will be the same height down from the top edge but each will be closer to one side of the webbing than the other, producing distinct Left and Right side pieces.
When I analyze the photo of the underarm element, the grommet appears to be centered left-to-right with one edge of the webbing sewn into the vest side seam and the other edge stitched onto the surface of the vest. By "hiding" the new cut edge of the webbing in the side seam we can center the grommet and also not need to worry about producing the same heat-cut finish as the exposed edge. Fusing or gluing this raw cut edge will still be important as the nylon filaments are slick and can easily slip and fray apart. I will probably seal the cut line on both sides first and then make the cut.
The top edge of the attached webbing is also located slightly below the armscye. The distance from the armscye to the top edge of the webbing is approximately the same distance as the top of the webbing to the top of the grommet. This would be roughly 11/32". The finished length of the side seam on my vest is 6", so the bottom of the webbing is located about 2 3/4" below the armscye and 3 1/4" above the waistband. This seems consistent with the photos.
There is no guarantee this approach is what the designers used but it looks exactly right, even down to the crease which appears on the finished vest part. This cease is exactly where one line of stitching had to be removed from the original adapter. The same crease will appear on the opposite piece under the opposite arm.
However this is a very simple element to produce; a short piece of webbing and two small grommets and you can obtain the same effect and may be equally screen accurate.
I was thinking the other day I feel like I have ripped out more stitching than I have sewn on my Erso projects. But that is mathematically impossible. Then I remember all of the military surplus items and ski boots I have disassembled to get webbings, hooks, snaps, buckles, etc. and all of the old garments I ripped up to get fabric to run tests. Maybe it is possible.
In that tradition here is my latest demolition effort to obtain ALICE webbing for Jyn's vest. I bought and disassembled an ALICE Clip Adapter which I identified in an earlier post. On the left is the unmodified adapter and on the right are the disassembled components.
The adapter is made of nylon webbing and I selected the Coyote Brown color. By removing three lines of stitching you produce three simpler parts. The first is a 1" x 4 1/2" piece of straight webbing from the rear of the adapter. Second is a piece of 3 1/2" x 4 1/2" webbing with two 1" x 3 3/4" straps with two 24 ligne snaps.
The third part is the ALICE clips webbing I wanted for the vest. This part measures 2 1/4" x 4 1/2". The webbing has two round metal grommets (with an outside diameter of 3/8") the centers are located 1/2" from the top and 13/16" in from the side edges. The shorter edges of the webbing were cut with a heat knife so the woven filaments melted and fused together to make a ravel-free finished edge. Cutting this element in half will produce two, 2 1/4" x 2 1/4" pieces with one grommet on each piece. The grommets will be the same height down from the top edge but each will be closer to one side of the webbing than the other, producing distinct Left and Right side pieces.
When I analyze the photo of the underarm element, the grommet appears to be centered left-to-right with one edge of the webbing sewn into the vest side seam and the other edge stitched onto the surface of the vest. By "hiding" the new cut edge of the webbing in the side seam we can center the grommet and also not need to worry about producing the same heat-cut finish as the exposed edge. Fusing or gluing this raw cut edge will still be important as the nylon filaments are slick and can easily slip and fray apart. I will probably seal the cut line on both sides first and then make the cut.
The top edge of the attached webbing is also located slightly below the armscye. The distance from the armscye to the top edge of the webbing is approximately the same distance as the top of the webbing to the top of the grommet. This would be roughly 11/32". The finished length of the side seam on my vest is 6", so the bottom of the webbing is located about 2 3/4" below the armscye and 3 1/4" above the waistband. This seems consistent with the photos.
There is no guarantee this approach is what the designers used but it looks exactly right, even down to the crease which appears on the finished vest part. This cease is exactly where one line of stitching had to be removed from the original adapter. The same crease will appear on the opposite piece under the opposite arm.
However this is a very simple element to produce; a short piece of webbing and two small grommets and you can obtain the same effect and may be equally screen accurate.
Last edited:
smithjohnj - thanks for posting this! I randomly have two of these I ended up with from a Rey purchase, so it's good to know it's one less thing to buy!
Last edited by a moderator:
CarpElgin
Member
A quick update to anyone starting on the shirt, McCall's 7360, looks like a fantastic starting point, with a back yoke, rotated seams on the back of the sleeves, and even a mandarin collar.
https://mccallpattern.mccall.com/m7360
https://mccallpattern.mccall.com/m7360
callisto
New Member
It looks like the buckles are only attached to the boot at the hook end, and not at the outside edge?
jenf0arc
Member
These look pretty good, nice find! Do you know which brand these are/where to get them? What little I know of rubber motorcycle straps I've only ever seen smooth rubber ones, not with the ridging.
verdaera
Active Member
That's what I think. There's stitching on the flaps on the inside/instep side of the shoe and a gap between that is situated right over the lacing holes. I think one side is attached to the laces, and it closes on the outside edge by some other means. There's a shot of Cassian on Jedha in the cells, he reaches down and undoes this flap on his boot (which is the same flap) to get hidden tools, I just wish I could get a clean shot to see if we can see the method it closes with.
I'm wrong-by motorcycle I should have said scooter (I realized this when I went back to try and find the website I got that image from). The ones I posted are used for a Vespa ('77-'83) and found on eBay here.
I've also found other replacement battery straps for scooters like these here that are similar as well.
smithjohnj
Sr Member
Temporary Boot Flaps
I purchased the Frye Boot to make Jyn Eros’s costume. And although the boots are one constant element in all of the various Erso outfits I was hesitant to modify a pair of $200 boots just to achieve screen accuracy. The screen used props seem to have a permanent boot cover. I decided to see if there was a way I could allow the boots to be worn “as is” and also provide some type of “temporary cover” which would look correct for cosplay.
The screen prop cover is made up of four pieces; Left Top, Left Bottom, Right Top, and Right Bottom. The Left and Right pieces are mirror images of each other so only two pattern pieces are required. I believe the screen parts have been made by cementing two thin pieces of leather wrong sides together, top-stitching them, and then sewing the instep edge of each flap directly to the boot. The flap then folds over the front of the boot (covering the lacings) and is attached to the outside edge. The method of flap closure is not clear. Snaps have been suggested and there is some evidence of Velcro or perhaps even two-faced tape as a dark “something” appears under the flaps in some photos. From experience I know two-faced tape alone is not strong enough unless a commercial, near-permanent brand is used. Sewing, gluing, permanent tape, or mounting snaps onto the boot itself was not a suitable solution for me.
Here is the result of my first test..
My approach is to make the flaps just like the screen examples, but add a third thin layer of leather to act as the base to which the flap can be sewn and to hold the “boot” portion of the closure mechanism. These temporary covers are attached to the boot by punching holes and a slot into this base and then using the original laces to cinch the base tight to the top of the boot under the laces. The punched holes match those on the boot and the center slot allows the laces to crisscross, over-and-under the base just like the laces do on the uppers and lace guards of the original boot.
Like @Chrononaut I made a pattern for the finished size of the Top and Bottom. I then cut over-size rectangles of leather for each piece. The two top layers which make up the flap need to be contact cemented. Once the flaps are cemented the larger size also provides a supporting surface on my sewing machine to top-stitch the flap design. Using a template of the finished size (less a small allowance in from each edge), the flaps are sewn on the Top, Outside, and Bottom Edges and three rows of stitches are placed about 1”from the Instep Edge.
The Base is prepared by punching holes for the laces at each eyelet and cutting a slot at the center line of the base.
The Flap Base is then aligned under the Flap and the two are joined by three rows of stitching along the template at the Instep Edge. The cover can then be trimmed to the finished top flap size.
To attach, the boot is unlaced. The Flap Cover is then placed over the Lace Guard of the boot and the laces passed up through both the Lace Guard and the Flap Base, down through the center slot, and back up through the next eyelet on the opposite Lace Guard and Flap Base. This crisscross lacing continues until boot flaps are in place and the boot is laced to the top. Once threaded, the lacings are cinched snug to properly fit the boot and also hold the Flap Covers in place.
Simple Test. My first paper patterns were for a Top and Bottom which divided the length of Lace Guard in half where each covered 4 sets of eyelets. This seems close to screen accurate. However folding the Bottom Flap over the arch of the foot and covering four set of eyelets required either a complex 3D curve for the Flap or the Flap can be a simple convex shape which touches the surface of the boot at the top and bottom edge of the flap but is unsupported in the middle. Since this is where the Buckle is located this provides extra space (underneath the Flap) for attaching that closure. However to test just the concept of the temporary cover I divided the Flaps into 5 eyelet sets on Top and three eyelet sets on the Bottom.
Lessons learned. Over all this seems to meet my goals of temporary cover flaps. The topstitching requires topstitch weight thread (or heavier) to be visible. I used embroidery thread with a leather needle. Sewing two and three layers of leather did not tax my machine but black stitching is all but invisible. A sewing template guide was essential for me and the result was still not as good as I would like. After fitting, the Base can be marked and trimmed even more so it remains hidden behind the Flap. The Instep Edge of the cover is improved by adding a piece of two-faced Poster Tape between the boot and the Base. The Poster Tape adhesive holds the Base down to the surface of the boot but can be easily removed and does not damage the boot’s finish. The same Poster Tape worked equally well as a test closure between the Base and the Flap.
I purchased the Frye Boot to make Jyn Eros’s costume. And although the boots are one constant element in all of the various Erso outfits I was hesitant to modify a pair of $200 boots just to achieve screen accuracy. The screen used props seem to have a permanent boot cover. I decided to see if there was a way I could allow the boots to be worn “as is” and also provide some type of “temporary cover” which would look correct for cosplay.
The screen prop cover is made up of four pieces; Left Top, Left Bottom, Right Top, and Right Bottom. The Left and Right pieces are mirror images of each other so only two pattern pieces are required. I believe the screen parts have been made by cementing two thin pieces of leather wrong sides together, top-stitching them, and then sewing the instep edge of each flap directly to the boot. The flap then folds over the front of the boot (covering the lacings) and is attached to the outside edge. The method of flap closure is not clear. Snaps have been suggested and there is some evidence of Velcro or perhaps even two-faced tape as a dark “something” appears under the flaps in some photos. From experience I know two-faced tape alone is not strong enough unless a commercial, near-permanent brand is used. Sewing, gluing, permanent tape, or mounting snaps onto the boot itself was not a suitable solution for me.
Here is the result of my first test..
My approach is to make the flaps just like the screen examples, but add a third thin layer of leather to act as the base to which the flap can be sewn and to hold the “boot” portion of the closure mechanism. These temporary covers are attached to the boot by punching holes and a slot into this base and then using the original laces to cinch the base tight to the top of the boot under the laces. The punched holes match those on the boot and the center slot allows the laces to crisscross, over-and-under the base just like the laces do on the uppers and lace guards of the original boot.
Like @Chrononaut I made a pattern for the finished size of the Top and Bottom. I then cut over-size rectangles of leather for each piece. The two top layers which make up the flap need to be contact cemented. Once the flaps are cemented the larger size also provides a supporting surface on my sewing machine to top-stitch the flap design. Using a template of the finished size (less a small allowance in from each edge), the flaps are sewn on the Top, Outside, and Bottom Edges and three rows of stitches are placed about 1”from the Instep Edge.
The Base is prepared by punching holes for the laces at each eyelet and cutting a slot at the center line of the base.
The Flap Base is then aligned under the Flap and the two are joined by three rows of stitching along the template at the Instep Edge. The cover can then be trimmed to the finished top flap size.
To attach, the boot is unlaced. The Flap Cover is then placed over the Lace Guard of the boot and the laces passed up through both the Lace Guard and the Flap Base, down through the center slot, and back up through the next eyelet on the opposite Lace Guard and Flap Base. This crisscross lacing continues until boot flaps are in place and the boot is laced to the top. Once threaded, the lacings are cinched snug to properly fit the boot and also hold the Flap Covers in place.
Simple Test. My first paper patterns were for a Top and Bottom which divided the length of Lace Guard in half where each covered 4 sets of eyelets. This seems close to screen accurate. However folding the Bottom Flap over the arch of the foot and covering four set of eyelets required either a complex 3D curve for the Flap or the Flap can be a simple convex shape which touches the surface of the boot at the top and bottom edge of the flap but is unsupported in the middle. Since this is where the Buckle is located this provides extra space (underneath the Flap) for attaching that closure. However to test just the concept of the temporary cover I divided the Flaps into 5 eyelet sets on Top and three eyelet sets on the Bottom.
Lessons learned. Over all this seems to meet my goals of temporary cover flaps. The topstitching requires topstitch weight thread (or heavier) to be visible. I used embroidery thread with a leather needle. Sewing two and three layers of leather did not tax my machine but black stitching is all but invisible. A sewing template guide was essential for me and the result was still not as good as I would like. After fitting, the Base can be marked and trimmed even more so it remains hidden behind the Flap. The Instep Edge of the cover is improved by adding a piece of two-faced Poster Tape between the boot and the Base. The Poster Tape adhesive holds the Base down to the surface of the boot but can be easily removed and does not damage the boot’s finish. The same Poster Tape worked equally well as a test closure between the Base and the Flap.
Last edited:
harrisonp
Sr Member
Love the temporary lace covers, I've been looking to do something similar for a RO Rebel Trooper build but didn't want to destroy a pair of boots that I wear every day. I'm looking forward to seeing your progress and final design. smithjohnj
Last edited by a moderator:
graciefox
New Member
Sorry, I know this is going back several pages, but I skimmed and didn't see that you had answered anywhere...what dye recipe did you end up going with? This is so pretty.
Mithril Designs
Well-Known Member
smithjohnj, this is a brilliant solution!
eclecticmus
Active Member
Hey guys--first time poster here. Just wanted to say hello and to thank you all for all of your hard work and the information you've shared. I'm just getting started on my costume build and I'm a bit overwhelmed. I don't know how to sew (though I got a machine for Christmas that I plan to learn on), so I've taken a risk and ordered a full costume kit from overseas that I plan to modify. It won't be troop-level quality, but hopefully I can use the kit as a starting point and pattern reference base that I can upgrade as I expand my sewing skills. If anyone is interested, I can report on the kit quality when it arrives.
bravoleader
New Member
Hi guys, thanks for all the information you've put in this thread, it has been absolutely useful!.
I'm starting to gather bits here and there for a jyn erso costume and for a cassian andor. I'm already fine with the boots as I got 2 pairs of LANGE boots with the correct latch.
I was looking at jyn's greeblies on the jacket. I read about a czech webbing thing. Is there a link I can check ? what about that rubber thing coming down from that "hook" ?
Best regards.
edit: got it, M60 Czech webbing! thanks
F
I'm starting to gather bits here and there for a jyn erso costume and for a cassian andor. I'm already fine with the boots as I got 2 pairs of LANGE boots with the correct latch.
I was looking at jyn's greeblies on the jacket. I read about a czech webbing thing. Is there a link I can check ? what about that rubber thing coming down from that "hook" ?
Best regards.
edit: got it, M60 Czech webbing! thanks
F
Last edited:
Chrononaut
Member
I was able to get some decent brown ripstop nylon and (almost) matching cotton for the vest at JoAnn Fabrics. I can't find the brown nylon on their website, but it was over by the utility fabric in the store. It's very stiff though, so it probably needs some serious weathering. I'm going to try to work on the vest this weekend, I'll let you know how well it sews. The cotton was Symphony broadcloth, I also got some in red for the lining. There's a couple different browns, I got one that was just a shade lighter than the nylon because it looked best.
Similar threads
