ROGUE ONE Jyn Erso - open build thread!

smithjohnj · Sep 23, 2016

When I first looked to draft my Jyn Erso blouse pattern I tried to find examples of a raised neckline. There were some vintage, out of print patterns, but nothing current. Plus originally I was looking for something for knit fabrics which later turned out to be an erroneous path.

Perhaps the raised neckline is a fashion trend for this fall. Today I found two Butterick patterns. I only looked at Butterick as they were on sale but other manufacturers may have similar options. For those looking for help on drafting just the raised neckline portion of the garment you might be interested in dress pattern 6374 or top pattern 6134. The dress provides for a center neck opening which allows the neckline to be worn up, or turned down resulting in a narrow collar. The top pattern uses raglan sleeves. Neither of these will help you with the overlapped framed front but it was the raised neckline which was more difficult for me to find good reference information when I started my project.

smithjohnj · Sep 26, 2016

EDIT This approach is not screen accurate. I missed the fact there is a vertical right front seam.

The Disney costume image release set back my schedule but I have finally finished a sample of the @CarpElgin version of Jyn’s blouse. I have shipped it off to my niece for a final fitting before making a few corrections and changing over to another fabric color choice. I was even able to incorporate the flat felled side and sleeve seams which @Jakkujunker noticed on the SDCC displayed costume. The felled seams on the sleeves took some extra time but using a “bird nest” technique I found on-line I was able to produce the seams about one inch at a time. Since improving my skill and knowledge is the biggest part of this for me it was a good and useful experience.

Here are a couple of photos, including my own take on the garment care instructions included in the side seam. Extra credit for those who can translate them.

clembot · Sep 28, 2016

Indy Magnoli said:
I can't imagine what kind of printing or paint would look like this:

http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg291/indy_magnoli/RPF/cassian-embroidery_zpsl0j7e7wk.jpg http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg291/indy_magnoli/RPF/cassian-embroidery2_zpsrmvujzy9.jpg

If they're not embroidered, they're at least some kind of applique... no way are those printed on.

Maybe it's not the hero costumes being displayed...

You can definitely get that effect with a deep-pile flocking transfer; the pattern is screened on with adhesive, then flocking is applied.

clembot · Sep 28, 2016

A few posters have asked about weathering costumes; having used both (I've studied textile effects for costume design) I can heartily recommend both Schmear powders and Ben Nye's "Plains Dust" and other powders. I like to set them with makeup setting spray, but if you work the grime into the fabric you won't end up "shedding" too much. Applying with a light powder brush and then working in with hands (wear gloves), especially on cuffs and seams and other places dirt naturally collects, will give you a great finish.

They're "clean dirt" products, so are not harmful, but be warned: wear a dust mask while applying!! That stuff gets everywhere :lol

Mithril Designs · Sep 28, 2016

smithjohnj said:
The Disney costume image release set back my schedule but I have finally finished a sample of the @CarpElgin version of Jyn’s blouse. I have shipped it off to my niece for a final fitting before making a few corrections and changing over to another fabric color choice. I was even able to incorporate the flat felled side and sleeve seams which @Jakkujunker noticed on the SDCC displayed costume. The felled seams on the sleeves took some extra time but using a “bird nest” technique I found on-line I was able to produce the seams about one inch at a time. Since improving my skill and knowledge is the biggest part of this for me it was a good and useful experience.

Here are a couple of photos, including my own take on the garment care instructions included in the side seam. Extra credit for those who can translate them.
View attachment 667327 View attachment 667328

The care label is an excellent touch!

Kendra · Sep 30, 2016

I've started to work on the gloves for my jyn erso imperial costume. Did anyone here found a good dye for it ? I'm looking for something that will look like the accurate one. I've applied Eco gel Antique brown on small piece to see how it'll turn, it darkened a bit, but the brown is not really apparent :unsure

(The piece of fabric that has a circle shape is placed in the wrong side, I have to change that ^^)

Dye test :

Left : Eco Gel Antique Brown
Right : Havane brown leather dye (Saphir brand)

spectreseven · Sep 30, 2016

Kendra said:
I've started to work on the gloves for my jyn erso imperial costume. Did anyone here found a good dye for it ? I'm looking for something that will look like the accurate one. I've applied Eco gel Antique brown on small piece to see how it'll turn, it darkened a bit, but the brown is not really apparent :unsure

View attachment 668629 View attachment 668630

I'll have to check what I used when I am home, but you'll need to use a deglazer to get the finish off of the gloves before you can redye them, if you haven't already. After that the dye should take pretty well.

Kendra · Sep 30, 2016

spectreseven said:
I'll have to check what I used when I am home, but you'll need to use a deglazer to get the finish off of the gloves before you can redye them, if you haven't already. After that the dye should take pretty well.

Thank you ! Yes, I used it on both of the pieces that I dyed. Actually, the leather absorbed the dye very well (even a bit too much for the Havane color ^^).

Mithril Designs · Sep 30, 2016

Dyed a glove tonight. I had just enough deglazer on hand to do only one glove because it had eaten through the cap of the bottle and mostly evaporated. I used "Angelus Leather Preparer and Deglazer". I only wiped down each side of the glove one time. Then I used "Angelus Chocolate Leather Dye". I put it on with the dauber in small sections and rubbed each section quickly after putting it on with a paper towel. It looks too red when it goes on, but when I rubbed it, it turned browner. It looks redder in the picture than it actually does, but if I hadn't had this dye on hand, I think I would have used the "Medium Brown" instead. As it is, I think I might buy "Brown" and darken the fingers and some other areas so it looks more like her gloves.

Does anyone know what type of fabric or leather is behind the cut out circle?

http://www.dharmatrading.com/dyes/angelus-leather-dyes.html

clembot · Oct 1, 2016

Everything is looking great - just struck me I should update the OP with any IDs for accessories, fabrics etc. If you see this post, quote it with relevant info added, otherwise will scour the past 11 pages and try to collate it all

Kendra · Oct 1, 2016

Mithril Designs said:
Dyed a glove tonight. I had just enough deglazer on hand to do only one glove because it had eaten through the cap of the bottle and mostly evaporated. I used "Angelus Leather Preparer and Deglazer". I only wiped down each side of the glove one time. Then I used "Angelus Chocolate Leather Dye". I put it on with the dauber in small sections and rubbed each section quickly after putting it on with a paper towel. It looks too red when it goes on, but when I rubbed it, it turned browner. It looks redder in the picture than it actually does, but if I hadn't had this dye on hand, I think I would have used the "Medium Brown" instead. As it is, I think I might buy "Brown" and darken the fingers and some other areas so it looks more like her gloves.

Does anyone know what type of fabric or leather is behind the cut out circle?

View attachment 668726

http://www.dharmatrading.com/dyes/angelus-leather-dyes.html

I used a brown leather nubruck and a piece of my black imperial jumpsuit (it's cotton).
I shaped a circle on paper pattern. I cut the glove and piece of fabric/leather with it. I let then the black part in a ring shape but cut the brown(leather) in half. I stitched it together (2 small seam lines).

theyrenotdolls · Oct 1, 2016

How about her binders...

spectreseven · Oct 1, 2016

spectreseven said:
I'll have to check what I used when I am home, but you'll need to use a deglazer to get the finish off of the gloves before you can redye them, if you haven't already. After that the dye should take pretty well.

I used Fiebing's leather dye in medium brown. Here's how they turned out:

Screen Shot 2016-10-01 at 10.02.58 AM.png

I used the same dye on a bit of deerskin for one part of the circle, and then a darker dye on a thicker piece of leather for the other half. It does look like half the circle on her gloves is deerskin or something similar that's soft and textured.

Screen Shot 2016-10-01 at 10.06.33 AM.png

Screen Shot 2016-10-01 at 10.05.38 AM.png

Just a PSA if you've never dyed gloves and you don't think things through like me... don't dye the inside of the gloves. That's how you end up looking like an Oompa Loompa :facepalm

spectreseven · Oct 1, 2016

theyrenotdolls said:
How about her binders...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/theyrenotdolls/B2F38885-7A3B-438C-8F37-BA8781E3BC4A.jpg

I've been eyeing those. Hoped that I could mod the Disney parks imperial binders since they are so cheap but I don't think there's a way to do it and make it close to screen accurate. I think I'm going to follow one of these tutorials for the base and then skip the raised sections and add my own details.

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/31537-how-to-make-tk-binders/

http://www.bloody-plastic.com/props/binders.html

Yutani Exec · Oct 3, 2016

smithjohnj,

what is the width on your Czech pack hooks?

I have the ones from the cotton webbing rig and also the leather rig and the hooks from the two different rigs are different widths - the webbing hooks are 23 mm wide (outer dimensions) and the leather rig hooks are 33 mm wide.

Do we have an idea which is the one closer to the hook on Jyn's costume?

I'd like to know as I am gifting one to someone and want to make sure I send the closest version.

smithjohnj · Oct 3, 2016

Yutani Exec said:
Do we have an idea which is the one closer to the hook on Jyn's costume?

Here is my reasoning so your can double check things. When the first hi-res photos came out I counted stitches and compared the values I got to real world products to validate my assumptions. Based on this approach I used the stitch length on the vest topstitching to be 2.5 mm which is a standard 10 stitch to the inch value and pretty common. That also made the webbing on the vest to be 1" wide or 25.4 mm. also a standard and common size. At the bottom of the webbing there is also the post of a military snap which also helped me size things. Since the outside dimension of the hook at the top is smaller than the webbing I think the smaller 23 mm is the closest one.

spectreseven · Oct 4, 2016

I forgot to mention this before: if anyone is looking for something to use for the two little greeblies on the bottom of Jyn's vest, the clips that come with Ace Bandages work really well.

Screen Shot 2016-10-04 at 7.59.43 AM.png

theyrenotdolls · Oct 4, 2016

It appears to me there are raised details on her binders... Just not as pronounced as the Disney ones or those in the tutorials u listed.

spectreseven said:
I've been eyeing those. Hoped that I could mod the Disney parks imperial binders since they are so cheap but I don't think there's a way to do it and make it close to screen accurate. I think I'm going to follow one of these tutorials for the base and then skip the raised sections and add my own details.
U
http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/31537-how-to-make-tk-binders/

http://www.bloody-plastic.com/props/binders.html

spectreseven · Oct 4, 2016

theyrenotdolls said:
It appears to me there are raised details on her binders... Just not as pronounced as the Disney ones or those in the tutorials u listed.

Yeah, agreed. I think using the base binders from the tutorials and then adding different details would work pretty well. I just wish we could see the other side of the binders. I didn't see them included with any of the toys unfortunately (but I may have missed something).

smithjohnj · Oct 4, 2016

spectreseven said:
I just wish we could see the other side of the binders.

You might see if there is a high-resolution of this still.

ROGUE ONE Jyn Erso - open build thread!

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