SteveStarkiller
Sr Member
dome lights, wooo!
1:1 Millennium Falcon Cockpit Replica - Group Build
- Thread starter SteveStarkiller
- Start date
Man, looking at that corrugated flooring, especially in that Falcon 360 panorama, really takes me back to the television studio my aunt and uncle worked at ages ago. Glad to see that being installed.
Can I also just add to the holy crap collection re: those lenses!!!
Can I also just add to the holy crap collection re: those lenses!!!
I KNOW!
- - - Updated - - -
Hey D,
The Holy Cr@P collection is growing! Kudos to RebelScum and his team.
I'm really excited about the corrugated flooring. I'm thinking I might forgo the 2nd layer of MDF and simply apply the flooring as is. I still need to cut to size but it should reduce the weight and hide enough of the waves.
But first I HAVE to figure out that dang nose skin!
Naturally...
Hi Gang,
Just a quick update... we're now talking directly with the vendor trying to figure out why the laser cutter isn't working. I'm not sure how many more fingers we can cross? Maybe toes are required as well?
Just a quick update... we're now talking directly with the vendor trying to figure out why the laser cutter isn't working. I'm not sure how many more fingers we can cross? Maybe toes are required as well?
Wow... Next, you're gonna' tell me there's something wrong with the hyperdrive!
It's not my fault...
Roughneckone
Sr Member
Lt Washburn
Sr Member
Sofa,
Have you tried hitting it with your fist? That works for Solo and Fonzie.
Have you tried hitting it with your fist? That works for Solo and Fonzie.
Hi Gang,
Well... a little forward progress on the nose. I've gone round and round and round trying to figure out a solution to what I perceived to be a complicated problem when the answer was sitting right in front of me the entire time! I think I figured it all out...
First, I removed a bit more material from the bottom to keep the skin from scraping
I then removed the skin once again and traced the pattern on the second layer using the 1/8" MDF
I cut both sides leaving a gap to be filled
Gap shouldn't be too difficult to fill (I say that now)
I then added these two vertical 1x2s to help add a bit more curve to the lower area around the window
This is when all my over analyzing finally came to a crashing halt and I let common sense take over. I added adhesive to all the mounting points the skin would be attached and left to dry
I made sure the skin was aligned
Sanded where necessary
Once the adhesive dried I removed most of the screws leaving the screws I was able to successfully countersink
I then filled in all the areas with more material where the skin didn't wrap
On this side I actually had to remove part of the skin to help it wrap around the nose - filler added to help smooth curve
Vertical filler piece added
I then painted all the edges black to help hide the wood
Adding more filer strips to the edges
More black
FINALLY! The nose skin is now even all the way around and is ready to accept the second layer or skin. I'll use the same process - add adhesive, screw into place, remove the screws I don't need but cover the counter sink screws and holes with filler
I then flipped the nose on its back and sanded down the entire surface smooth and removed any unwanted material caused by the screws
Part of the skin had popped loose so I added more adhesive and taped
I then painted the underside black to, once again, hide the look of the natural wood
Next up... I'll add the second layer of skin and see if we can't get ourselves a nice smooth finish!
And finally... still no laser cutter...
Well... a little forward progress on the nose. I've gone round and round and round trying to figure out a solution to what I perceived to be a complicated problem when the answer was sitting right in front of me the entire time! I think I figured it all out...
First, I removed a bit more material from the bottom to keep the skin from scraping
I then removed the skin once again and traced the pattern on the second layer using the 1/8" MDF
I cut both sides leaving a gap to be filled
Gap shouldn't be too difficult to fill (I say that now)
I then added these two vertical 1x2s to help add a bit more curve to the lower area around the window
This is when all my over analyzing finally came to a crashing halt and I let common sense take over. I added adhesive to all the mounting points the skin would be attached and left to dry
I made sure the skin was aligned
Sanded where necessary
Once the adhesive dried I removed most of the screws leaving the screws I was able to successfully countersink
I then filled in all the areas with more material where the skin didn't wrap
On this side I actually had to remove part of the skin to help it wrap around the nose - filler added to help smooth curve
Vertical filler piece added
I then painted all the edges black to help hide the wood
Adding more filer strips to the edges
More black
FINALLY! The nose skin is now even all the way around and is ready to accept the second layer or skin. I'll use the same process - add adhesive, screw into place, remove the screws I don't need but cover the counter sink screws and holes with filler
I then flipped the nose on its back and sanded down the entire surface smooth and removed any unwanted material caused by the screws
Part of the skin had popped loose so I added more adhesive and taped
I then painted the underside black to, once again, hide the look of the natural wood
Next up... I'll add the second layer of skin and see if we can't get ourselves a nice smooth finish!
And finally... still no laser cutter...
Last edited:
FrightMaker
Well-Known Member
Looks great! And way to tackle those "curves" as they come up! Hope you can get that dang lazer cutter fixed soon!
Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
joberg
Legendary Member
Sofa, for curving wood (any wood, really) you could also take your panel and cut, with a table saw, long vertical grooves (the more you want that panel to bend, the more grooves you'll have to do). If I use MDF, I'll space my groove every two inches or so apart and I cut those with no more than half the thickness of the panel (1''thick = 1/2'' deep grooves).
Fill the grooves with white glue and wrap it around the frame, leave it to dry for at least 24 hours and voilà!
Fill the grooves with white glue and wrap it around the frame, leave it to dry for at least 24 hours and voilà!
Hey FM,
Thanks so much! I'm really happy with how it's finally coming together. Again, one of the those "duh" moments. I've been having too many of those lately!
That dang laser cutter! It's so frustrating!
Hey J,
Thanks for the great advice! The 1/8" MDF is very flexible and, in my opinion, at that size, too thin to cut grooves. Also, being a conical shape, I would have to be a bit more specific with the cuts. It's wrapping really well just by hand, so I don't foresee any real issues (I say that now).
I am a little worried about the armor plating layer. I'm considering EVA foam and velcro into place - when the time comes.
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Coolest Build.....
EVER!!!
EVER!!!
Hi Gang,
We just received hint of some GREAT news! No... the laser cutter is still down. This is MUCH BIGGER than the laser cutter! I'm going to have switch into triple supercharger overdrive!!!!
More on this as it happens so stand by!
We just received hint of some GREAT news! No... the laser cutter is still down. This is MUCH BIGGER than the laser cutter! I'm going to have switch into triple supercharger overdrive!!!!
More on this as it happens so stand by!
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