Replica Real Guns

I finally got around to molding the standard Glock 34. The first casting came out flawless.

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And I got around to painting a few of them.
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The real Glock 34 has been sent off to Taran Tactical, and they will be installing the John Wick package to it. I should get it back sometime late summer, and then I will be molding it again.


I already have my next 2 handguns lined up, and I am super excited about them. Hoping to start 1 next week, and the other very soon after.
 
I'm always on the look out for a hard rubber or resin Smith & Wesson M&P or HK P30L if you happen to come across either those :)
 
that's really nice and realistic finish.
Didi you think about casting disassembled guns, so you could offer some casts with moving parts like real ones?
The graphite finish is very realistic, bringing kind of bronzing effect and accurate steel look.
I designed a fictive weapon and planned to cast it too, using iron powder inside black or dark resin and then sanding a bit to make steal appear and finally creating rust, it can be interesting for old look replica, for wood I also had a special idea to simulate it, it's more resin work, but would make a solid finish with no painting or clear coat.
 
would you have access to a gun like this?
The frame only.

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It's the gun used by Charles Dance in 1993 movie last action hero, it's a dan wesson .357, maybe a 715, but it seems there were several variations on barrel sleeve shape.
The original real gun has some opening on top, visible on picture even it's not complet on the replica used for movie.
 
Justinian, to echo many others in this thread, your work is *incredible!* Aside from the flawless molding and casting, the graphite finish particularly intrigues me. It makes the Glocks look perfect, and the shine on those revolvers looks every bit like real blued steel. Wow!

Question -- what would happen if you buffed with graphite powder, but didn't put the clear coat over it? Would the graphite rub off on your hands every time it was handled?
 
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Question -- what would happen if you buffed with graphite powder, but didn't put the clear coat over it? Would the graphite rub off and your hands every time it was handled?

Yes. Some of it may even come off just sitting on the shelf, depending on how thick you put it on.

TazMan2000
 
I'm always on the look out for a hard rubber or resin Smith & Wesson M&P or HK P30L if you happen to come across either those :)
Those are both handguns that I eventually have plans to mold, but I already have several to knock out over the next few months.
that's really nice and realistic finish.
Didi you think about casting disassembled guns, so you could offer some casts with moving parts like real ones?
The graphite finish is very realistic, bringing kind of bronzing effect and accurate steel look.
I designed a fictive weapon and planned to cast it too, using iron powder inside black or dark resin and then sanding a bit to make steal appear and finally creating rust, it can be interesting for old look replica, for wood I also had a special idea to simulate it, it's more resin work, but would make a solid finish with no painting or clear coat.
I casting small parts with resin usually just ends up being a disappointment. The resin tends to break very easily. The only way to make something with moving parts would be to cast with metal, and I haven't really looked into that much. For now, I'm just doing solid ones.

Justinian, to echo many others in this thread, your work is *incredible!* Aside from the flawless molding and casting, the graphite finish particularly intrigues me. It makes the Glocks look perfect, and the shine on those revolvers looks every bit like real blued steel. Wow!

Question -- what would happen if you buffed with graphite powder, but didn't put the clear coat over it? Would the graphite rub off on your hands every time it was handled?
The graphite powder rubs off incredibly easily. It definitely needs a clear coat. It does slightly dull the finish though, so you have to apply more than you actually need. It takes a bit of practice, to get it right.
 
I think all of your replicas look awesome. Unless you did it for a reason you might want to consider that when you do automatics that have a loaded indicator of some sort that you have a dummy round in the chamber when you cast them.
 
I finally got the John Wick Chapter 2 handgun! It is a highly upgraded Glock 34 from Taran Tactical Innovations.

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For this one I wanted to mold each part individually, to make painting the barrel easier and keep it as accurate as possible.
Here are the molds for the frame, slide, barrel and magazine.

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And then finally the resin cast parts.

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Working on painting one up this weekend. Right now the parts assemble just like a real handgun, but you can't rack the slide back with the barrel in place. I'm working on a way to get it to work though.
 
I had a couple thoughts/questions:
You should try and copy some iconic propmaking guns, like a broomhandle Mauser or Sterling submachine gun, so people could use them as a base for Star Wars blasters. Or they could just have your really nice replicas.
Have you ever thought of field-stripping the guns before molding and casting them in parts? People could assemble them as kits.
Also, if you can get a hold of one, an FN Five-seveN pistol was the sidearm from Battlestar Galactica, and airsoft ones to use as props are pretty hard to come by. You have to use the original version with the weird round trigger guard. That might be a good one to do.
How do you keep the silicone out of the barrels and other cracks/mechanisms of the gun?
 
wow these look great! would you be able to show a more detailed pic of the revolver moulds?
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I had a couple thoughts/questions:
You should try and copy some iconic propmaking guns, like a broomhandle Mauser or Sterling submachine gun, so people could use them as a base for Star Wars blasters. Or they could just have your really nice replicas.
Have you ever thought of field-stripping the guns before molding and casting them in parts? People could assemble them as kits.
Also, if you can get a hold of one, an FN Five-seveN pistol was the sidearm from Battlestar Galactica, and airsoft ones to use as props are pretty hard to come by. You have to use the original version with the weird round trigger guard. That might be a good one to do.
How do you keep the silicone out of the barrels and other cracks/mechanisms of the gun?
I do have a very long list of guns to mold, but it gets expensive trying to get some of these older ones. The FN Five-seven is on my list. Unfortunately I will not be casting many of these in parts. It's way too much work, and resin tends to break when casting thin parts. My original goal with these was to create accurate and inexpensive con safe props.


Here is a completely painted John Wick gun.
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The slide has my signature "graphite" paint job. I also made accurate waterslide decals. And my favorite part is the fiber optic sight.

Here is what the final raw kit looks like.
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It has the 4 resin parts, waterslide decals, fiber optic sight and felt tape to hold the magazine in place.
 
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