New guy here, just starting my first graflex build.

I got a technical question for all you sabersmiths out there. On tightening the clamp, I can move the top and bottom tubes around while the clamp is locked down, but they don't wiggle around if I wave the saber around. If I tighten the clamp one more turn the whole thing is rock solid, but the clamp lever is super tight. I just don't wanna break a brand new clamp, so which way should I go with this thing? Also do you all leave the little metal square underneath the lever on your sabers? I bubble strip is pretty loose in the clamp so I'm gonna put just a dab of hot glue underneath it to help hold it in place.
 
Hi there.
You can switch the metallbar which is installed on the clampside, the threaded one, 180º around.

Through this you are able to tighten the clamp for just 1/2 turn of the lever instead of one full turn.
I think it might be enough then to tighten all the pieces without set them under too much pressure.

Hopw you understand what I mean ;)


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Very nice saber indeed :) ... and yes that's an emitter head of OB1 Phantom Menace. Did you put that comic of Batman's Joker under your lightsaber parts on purpose for your pix, since Mark Hamill did the voice for the cartoon character?

Chaim
 
p0sitr0nic said:
What kind of clamp is that? Looks like one i got here, which doesnt have the "graflex" stamped on it.
Click to expand...

Its actually from TCSS. It fits pretty good. I was gonna get a roman one but I didn't wanna pay $65 and I wasn't sure about that chrome finish. The brush finish looks a lot better IMO.

- - - Updated - - -

Luke the Belter said:
Hi there.
You can switch the metallbar which is installed on the clampside, the threaded one, 180º around.

Through this you are able to tighten the clamp for just 1/2 turn of the lever instead of one full turn.
I think it might be enough then to tighten all the pieces without set them under too much pressure.

Hopw you understand what I mean ;)


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Click to expand...

A little lost. So do I unscrew the lever and switch which sides the bars are on, or do I just loosen the lever and try to turn the bar? I tried the last one and it didn't work at all. It just isn't enough room without hitting the sides of the clamp.

- - - Updated - - -

Sym-Cha said:
Very nice saber indeed :) ... and yes that's an emitter head of OB1 Phantom Menace. Did you put that comic of Batman's Joker under your lightsaber parts on purpose for your pix, since Mark Hamill did the voice for the cartoon character?

Chaim
Click to expand...

Happy accident actually. A friend let me borrow it to read because I'm a big batman fan. Its been sitting on my desk for weeks now and I still haven't read it. LOL
 
Ah thanks :D

Mine is a roman as well, but its not chrome, its brushed, like a real one. (i have a real one too, but on my custom saber the one without "graflex" looked better.

as for turning the bar, you remove the clamp lever, and rotate the actual threaded side bar 180.
 
Ah, ok! I'll give that a shot. The only picks I saw of the roman clamps showed it having a chromed look. Considering the clamp from TCSS was much cheaper and didn't have graflex on it made it better for saber making. One day I'll get a real clamp, until then no one will know the difference but me. :)
 
Heh... yeah its all in the mind, really. The saber hanging on your belt is enough to get remarks from almost anyone interested, "real" parts or not. Mine has a bit of battery acid damage on it, which makes it great for a dinged up saber, but my custom one was all machined aluminum, and way more prequel era looking.

Been looking for a cheap clamp to finish my resin ObI wan saber, all i need is a clamp to finish it.
 
Just did the trick with the clamp. It really help with my bottom tube the top one I can still move a bit but it's much tighter. But I know why it's acting like that. The bottom tube is just a faction bigger. I mean, we're splitting hairs her on how much bigger it is. So the clamp is nice and tight on the bottom tube and just a hair loose on the top tube. Unless you try to move the top tub it's fine though. I wish i had a way to measure the difference between the two. I guess they really don't make things like they used too.
 
Flanman said:
Just did the trick with the clamp. It really help with my bottom tube the top one I can still move a bit but it's much tighter. But I know why it's acting like that. The bottom tube is just a faction bigger. I mean, we're splitting hairs her on how much bigger it is. So the clamp is nice and tight on the bottom tube and just a hair loose on the top tube. Unless you try to move the top tub it's fine though. I wish i had a way to measure the difference between the two. I guess they really don't make things like they used too.
Click to expand...
Glad to hear that.
Hadn't the time to answer more quickly yesterday.
Hope it wasn't too hard to figure it out [emoji6]

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Try some pieces of ducktape to secure that top 3 cell within your clamp ... or use a piece of thin leather hidden underneath somewhere ... that's a trick I did for a Luke V2 and a real vintage clamp from a different kind of flashgun ;)

Chaim
 
Ok I'm torn between getting a faucet hole cover for my end cap or this piece from TCSS which would just screw in and I could use one of several different inserts. Its apparently .065" in length added to your saber. Which one do you guys think would be better?
037155802463lg.jpgmps11b.jpg
 
Will the faucet cover stay in well enough to hold the saber to your belt, as well as support the D ring assembly? You DONT want this falling off your hip to the ground...
 
I figured with the combination of the threads in there and lots of superglue it will. But I could be wrong. The faucet thing will look more authentic. Just wondering which one you all think would look best.
 
Why don't you get both pieces? ... That way you could slightly adjust that TCSS piece to look more like a graflex bottom with an edge, by grinding down the inside . . . and then you can glue that faucet thing inside with an added D-ring ... do you understand? Also I would search for a vintage red button and/or even a glass eye since those TCSS parts look way to new and shiny imho ;)

Chaim
 
Id recommend 2 part epoxy over superglue. Superglue has a tendency to fail after a while.

Personally, the faucet cover looks more accurate. As long as it holds.
 
Been busy with work lately but I just got my pommel on my graflex today. I went with the MPS pommel style 11, MPS insert 12 and a MPS clip to hold it all together. The end result was pretty good. It fits fairly flushed, and is vented pretty well for sound if I ever want to install electronics. Im seriously considering a Nano Biscotti and a crayon or blue Rebel Star.
2014-07-09 13.52.21.jpg2014-07-09 13.51.45.jpg
 
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