Star Destroyer by Zvezda: in my workbench

Hey, did you use a mechanical pencil for that miserable job? I'm trying to figure out if I can get away with a .5mm or if I should try and source a .2mm pencil, and I'm loving the look of what you did there.

I just used an art, wooden pencil. Just kept it very sharp and had no big issues.

Thanks for the black velvet advice, Robiwon!
 
when you glued the top hull to the bottom hull.. did you pinch any of the FO along the trenches? or did you run all your FO below the "join point" where the hulls are glued together?
 
You need to trim down the inner sides of the trench into then places where you might pinch the FO. Its a critical step. If not you will ruin a lot of the fiber work.
 
You need to trim down the inner sides of the trench into then places where you might pinch the FO. Its a critical step. If not you will ruin a lot of the fiber work.

I removed the entire wall on the upper hull half. No "pinchies"....

Ok, that's what I was afraid of. I got a little ahead of myself last-night. I was running on autopilot gluing pieces together and I already glued the trench pieces to the bottom hull. I didn't trim any of the bottom hull's wall. I will for sure trim down or completely remove, as Robiwon did, the upper hull wall.

Thanks guys
 
I know I'm showing up late to this thread, just re-reading as I prepare to star my SD in a few months. As far as lighting without FO, I used to do this like 25 years ago...styrene sheet cut to whatever you need and back then I used severely shortened Christmas light strands in the model. yes they needed not to touch any surface because of heat (melting), but I built about 3 NC1701-D's about a foot or so long. I think I drilled out most of the available window holes, attached the sheet to the inside and fixed the bulbs in the best position for even lighting. The sheet picks up the light exceptionally well and flows through it pretty evenly. This method does work rather well and you don't have the mess of a spaghetti of fiber optics everywhere. I've been using FO on my MPC Falcon builds, but for the SD, I'm thinking of at least a partial of both lighting methods. use the sheet where it'll work the best and easiest like in the main hull, and then FO in the more difficult places like the tower and the belly docking bay.

Just thought I'd pass that along, and I apologize if someone else has already covered this.


I know we discussed (in Robiwon's thread) the feasibility of internal lighting with holes but, without FO. But how well do you suppose somthign like this may work, considering how small the bulbs are, and how thin the wire is?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LY8NLN...UTF8&colid=7273ZMT3756Y&coliid=I2XSLTZXAU58FF
 
The effect obtained with FO is much better, cleaner and balanced throughout the whole model. The approach you mentioned can give a "similar" effect but not as good as with FO. With some patience FO are quite doable. This was my first FO project and I must say I am proud how it turned out.
 
oh, I agree completely...FO is the way to go but you are right on the mark with the patience aspect. I hadn't done the alternative since then and thought I give it another whirl since the project is of size. if it doesn't look good enough, I'll pull it all out and go the other way. I guess another thing that comes to mind just this second, the window openings on the 1701-D were a lot of oval shapes, FO might not have worked so well even if I knew about it then. Also comes to mind a 1/350 Titanic I did 20 years ago doing the same thing. Window openings too large for FO to work right and it turned out really well as far as even lighting. However, as far as the spaceships go, I agree that FO is definitely the best approach particularly given the scale.
glad you chimed in, good to hear something from someone. I haven't heard a thing from the guys on the Falcon threads in quite a while. I starting to feel abandoned LOL
btw...
I'd be proud of your SD as well, and for a first time doing a FO...it's, "impressive, most impressive", I'm hoping to at least get close to what you've achieved and got most of what I need to do from your stuff, so thanks for all you posts, incredibly helpful

The effect obtained with FO is much better, cleaner and balanced throughout the whole model. The approach you mentioned can give a "similar" effect but not as good as with FO. With some patience FO are quite doable. This was my first FO project and I must say I am proud how it turned out.
 
Say Joe...I forgot to ask...was it you that I read used the flickering blue LED for you engine lighting? I asked my guy in CA that I get FO and LED from and he only had white, but...he did get some blue for me at my request, and he got a few other colors in flickering while he was at it. I guess a lot of his other clients are quite pleased at his new offerings. Cool how great stuff like that trickles down ain't it
 
I know I'm showing up late to this thread, just re-reading as I prepare to star my SD in a few months. As far as lighting without FO, I used to do this like 25 years ago...styrene sheet cut to whatever you need and back then I used severely shortened Christmas light strands in the model. yes they needed not to touch any surface because of heat (melting), but I built about 3 NC1701-D's about a foot or so long. I think I drilled out most of the available window holes, attached the sheet to the inside and fixed the bulbs in the best position for even lighting. The sheet picks up the light exceptionally well and flows through it pretty evenly. This method does work rather well and you don't have the mess of a spaghetti of fiber optics everywhere. I've been using FO on my MPC Falcon builds, but for the SD, I'm thinking of at least a partial of both lighting methods. use the sheet where it'll work the best and easiest like in the main hull, and then FO in the more difficult places like the tower and the belly docking bay.

Just thought I'd pass that along, and I apologize if someone else has already covered this.
I plan on doing mine this way. I purchased adhesive back led lighting strips for the larger areas and did a test . Looks quite nice.

Sent from my SM-N915W8 using Tapatalk
 
I might have seen it on youtube or something, there's a guy that's like a guru that posts a lot of stuff on there, cant recall his name at the moment...but it seemed like a good idea. I'm going to use the Blue flickers on my current Falcon build. Makes more sense to use those on a "landed" ramp down version, which all but one of mine have been. It occurred to me that on the ground the Falcon engines wouldn't be on "full glow", right? Thanks again for all the cool and innovative stuff you've posted. my builds are only going to be the better for it.


I used blue LEDS but they were not of the flickering kind. I agree that is a great time for model enthusiasts!
 
Hey Scarecrow,

That is really beautiful. The custom plaques that you are using on your stands also look outstanding and is a great idea (may have to borrow that idea).

One question, is the duplicolor Primer your final coat (Excluding pencil, washes, matte, etc...) , or are you applying paint on top of the primer? I don't mean that as a negative question in any way...on the contrary I may use that on my Zvezda. I built the Rogue One Revell Destroyer as a warm-up, and was happy with the finished model, but really love the color of yours much more.

Also, if you don't mind sharing, what pencil did you use?

Thanks much and great job,
Jim
 
The final color was Tamiya Insignia White. The pencil I used was cheap artist one I had laying around. Was softer than a regular one and made the job much easier. Its a matter of keeping it sharp and let the panel line control the pencil. Thanks!
 
The final color was Tamiya Insignia White. The pencil I used was cheap artist one I had laying around. Was softer than a regular one and made the job much easier. Its a matter of keeping it sharp and let the panel line control the pencil. Thanks!

Thanks for the info, Scarecrow. Again, truly amazing job. It's also interesting to know that the Tamiya paint worked with Duplicolor Primer. I live about an hour from nearest hobby shop so good to know in a pinch I can try "hardware brand" primers with model paints (after a test run on sprue).

Thanks again.
 
really good isn't it...I've read it through twice, and the one Scarecrow Joe started, just to be sure I didn't miss anything. I picked up a lot of extremely valuable tips and procedure in prep for my own 2ft SD build later this summer.

I just read the entire thread and my question was: "How did I miss this wonderful build?":eek Pro-Job all the way:cool
 
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