Any recommendations on vacuum metallizing shops?

PropReplicator2

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Hey guys,

Looking to do a run of cylon helmets sometime in the next few months and have been looking around for a good vacuum metallizing shop here in the US. Anyone have experience with any of these shops in the area? I'm in West texas for reference as far as distance goes, but would love to keep shipping lower because of how many item need to get shipped.

Thanks!
 
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Looks like they metalize metal ? How about plastic ?
 
I have used "Vacuum Metalizing" in Rancho Cucamonga CA. (Not the place above, that's a different company) or also known as "Vac U-Met" for 30 years. Depending on the mood and mode, (They have been in and out of business a couple of times) they can be great, or they can be difficult to get stuff from and correct. Generally though, they have been very good for aluminum metalizing, which is what you'll want for the Cylons. (For our spacesuit visors we have those done with 24k gold)
Chuck has been the contact person I have always talked with and he has been there forever. In fact, I'm 99% sure, they did the original Cylons.
Address and number:
8740 Hellman Ave, Rancho Cucamonga, CA 91730
(909) 296-4696
 
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If your not familiar with the process, your item is placed in a chamber and all the gasses are sucked out, and I mean ALL the gasses, you end up with nearly a perfect vacuum. Which means, any "Bondo", glue or filler you have used will "Out-gas" in this vacuum, and if your seams are not virtually perfect, you will get blisters or crack lines on these areas. Also, if you want a perfect part, your surface needs to be completely blemish free, no sanding lines at all. Typically if we send sanded parts, they are wet finished to 1000 or 1200 grit minimum. Vacuum formed parts are good, but don't sand or touch the surface to be metalized if you can help it. Tape a protective cover over the outside while you work on the parts, because any scratches will be magnified when the "chrome" finish is done.

Prepping the part for them,
Make mounting tabs in at least 3 places on any surface you will not need finished, as once in the chamber, the parts can not be reached to rotate them, so they need to be rigidly mounted to rotating frames in the vacuum chamber and rotated, so the mounting areas need to be such, that the part can't "flop around". Also, any mount that hangs over a surface to be metalized, will leave a ghost shadow on the part, so make you mounting points away from edges if you can.
The cost of metalizing is not very high, unless you are doing only 1 or 2 parts. But, if they have to spend a lot of time rigging your parts for the chamber, it will get expensive.

Hope this helps,
Chris
 
I have used "Vacuum Metalizing" in Rancho Cucamonga CA. (Not the place above, that's a different company) or also known as "Vac U-Met" for 30 years. Depending on the mood and mode, (They have been in and out of business a couple of times) they can be great, or they can be difficult to get stuff from and correct. Generally though, they have been very good for aluminum metalizing, which is what you'll want for the Cylons. (For our spacesuit visors we have those done with 24k gold)
Chuck has been the contact person I have always talked with and he has been there forever. In fact, I'm 99% sure, they did the original Cylons.
Address and number:
8740 Hellman Ave, Rancho Cucamonga, CA 91730
(909) 296-4696
Great thank you! I’m still deciding between resin castings, or vac-formed kits. Vac-form kits are more accurate for this specific helmet, but a resin helmet would provide a more aesthetically pleasing look to the helmet and strength, as opposed to the large seam and aluminum tape down the middle of the helmet seen on the originals.
 
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Be aware that a cast piece needs to be a good quality cast, with no hidden bubbles and thoroughly mixed material. Either of these issues will likely cause out gassing and bubbles. Also, a cast piece needs to have a perfect smooth surface in order for the reflective finish to look good.
 
Be aware that a cast piece needs to be a good quality cast, with no hidden bubbles and thoroughly mixed material. Either of these issues will likely cause out gassing and bubbles. Also, a cast piece needs to have a perfect smooth surface in order for the reflective finish to look good.

I use to cast fiberglass car parts for a living. Getting a perfectly smooth surface on a fiberglass casting is no issue here ;).
 
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