I cut a strip off my C3P0 belly wires matt for the ribbed wraps since I was too lazy to drill holes for individual wires.
Kurtyboy's project updates: 24 July - More blasters
- Thread starter kurtyboy
- Start date
I didn't even catch the last update!
How did you make, or what did you use, as the piece on the Vader saber behind the shroud?
I am making that same saber... and not sure how to go about it.
Thanks!
It's about time I posted something. I've been working on a lot of stuff, both Star Wars and otherwise, but very little of it is actually finished. I learned a bit of 3D CAD recently and bought a 3D printer for prototyping, which has been a great help in developing builds, and have been spending a lot more time modelling in 3D than actually physically building. However, I'm really looking forward to seeing CNC'd parts come to fruition from my models. Modelling parts in 3D really helps with scaling and seeing how everything fits together.
Now on to some progress...
I decided to accurize my own Jawa blaster based around the resin venturi from Odiwan72. I've finished shaping the wooden shoulder stock and modelled and printed the mount. The trigger and housing are working spring loaded steel. I added a steel tube and bolts to the resin yoke, but it warped under the weight of the receiver and barrel, so I'm modelling a new one for steel CNC.
Now on to some progress...
I decided to accurize my own Jawa blaster based around the resin venturi from Odiwan72. I've finished shaping the wooden shoulder stock and modelled and printed the mount. The trigger and housing are working spring loaded steel. I added a steel tube and bolts to the resin yoke, but it warped under the weight of the receiver and barrel, so I'm modelling a new one for steel CNC.
I now have an ANH hero Stormtrooper to go with my stunt. It's based on RS armor. I accurized the belt to match the one Mark Hamill wore by removing the holster, turning the belt upside down (so it fastens from right to left instead of left to right), extended the holster straps and reattaching it, and added the comlink clip and grappling hook box. The box conveniently covered up the old holster holes.
The grappling hook is functional using a retractable dog collar and extends to about 5 meters. The hook is from Russrep but the blades are nearly 50% too big so I plan on modelling a new one. The switch is a vintage car dashboard type and is non-functional.
I think the helmet is an SDS recast. I took it apart and reassembled it slightly differently, enlarged the eyes and removed the vinyl decals and repainted all the details. The numbers of tube, teardrop, and trap stripes match the helmet worn by Mark Hamill, and I replaced the trim and mics with RS parts. I opted to mask the black stripes this time rather than hand paint.
The grappling hook is functional using a retractable dog collar and extends to about 5 meters. The hook is from Russrep but the blades are nearly 50% too big so I plan on modelling a new one. The switch is a vintage car dashboard type and is non-functional.
I think the helmet is an SDS recast. I took it apart and reassembled it slightly differently, enlarged the eyes and removed the vinyl decals and repainted all the details. The numbers of tube, teardrop, and trap stripes match the helmet worn by Mark Hamill, and I replaced the trim and mics with RS parts. I opted to mask the black stripes this time rather than hand paint.
Love it all! And you are SO RIGHT about the help that 3D modeling and printers provide in working out the way things fit together and all that good stuff.
Seeing those finished troopers makes me really want to finish up the legs on mine. I'm pretty sure I'll need someone here to help me with that, getting the fit right and everything.
Always enjoy seeing updates from you, good sir!
Seeing those finished troopers makes me really want to finish up the legs on mine. I'm pretty sure I'll need someone here to help me with that, getting the fit right and everything.
Always enjoy seeing updates from you, good sir!
James Hess
New Member
I'm just gathering parts for building a bowcaster. I'm surprised there isn't more resources such an iconic blaster. I was wondering what camera or where did you get the vintage knobs? ThanksProject Updates 15 Feb 2016: Carbonite panel and bowcaster upgrades
Shhit, we lost Tom!...
Some Carbonite panel upgrades again. The last lot of 'nipples' now replaced with original parts.
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Made my own highly detailed decals.
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Upgraded resin viewer to real one and decided to include the hood to match the RotJ scene (this panel was not present in ESB). Also replaced a dead yellow LED.
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These decals were made with paint stencils which appears to be the case on the original prop (the rest are stickers).
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Ready to rock!
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Bigturc's machined knobs will be the next upgrade. Cant wait!
Bowcaster also got some upgrades. The large and small amplifier knobs which were modern replacements have been upgraded with vintage ones. All bowcaster knobs are now vintage.
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Project updates 28 Jan 2017 - Resin Leia RotJ build complete / Bapty E11 stunt update
Hehe... thanks Mark.
Also getting there with my Bapty ANH stunt. I wanted the rail to be as accurate as possible so it's steel and wider than most. Was a nightmare to bend bend with hand tools but got it right on my third and final attempt!
Made an L bracket for the Hengstler.
I need part of a Sterling magazine. I'm going to do the wood block version.
I'm headed down this road myself - I have a handle a rear that need cleanup (ha ha)
I noticed on the real Bapty E11 there are rivets on the two inserts... but how do you rivet into solid metal?!
I'd hazard a guess that the casting or whatever it was is hollow.
I've kicked that idea around a bit as well and I expect that they just drilled into the solid insert and the expansion of the rivet locks everything in place. I'd make the hole in the sides of the Sterling match the diameter of the rivet then make the hole in the insert slightly larger so the rivet has just enough room to expand.
Well, it has been over a year since my last update so I thought I would post... something.
I last showed my hyperfirm Lewis gun with upgades in 2016. It had some added blued steel parts, but was still looking pretty bland:
Next thing I did (probably prematurely) was the layered wood effect (thanks once again to Sidewinder for the master painter's tips):
Final result:
I then chopped the top of the receiver off so that I could add some more detail and moving parts.
Drew up templates for the parts and had them laser cut from acrylic (of course if I was to do it again I would model and 3D print).
Make way!
Plastic parts grafted on, still some seam work to do:
Lasercut steel feed arm added:
But still, this wasn't enough realism. I also wanted to improve the radiator side fins as they had lost their depth from being puttied up for the molding process:
Poor Lewis underwent some more major surgery at this point. It was one of those "Should I do it or leave it? What if it goes horribly wrong... Aw screw it, I've started so I might as well continue!"
The fiberglass supporting rod that runs the length of the casting now fully revealed! Any added parts would have to be designed to fit around it.
Test fitting a tube where the new steel gas tube will go.
New machined steel gas tube (compared to real one). It was done like this with a split in it so it would fit around the fiberglass supporting rod.
Also added a plate to the roof of the cavity to make it look neater. It should look much better once it gets a complete repaint. I dremelled a few inches into the barrel casting and added a matt black plate there as well.
Add on parts: 3D printed radiator fins, barrel tube stump, and gas tube.
It's a very tight fit in there but they fit like a glove.
Final result. Now the radiator looks like a separate part which disappears into the barrel casing, and the gas tube disappears into the receiver.
More to come...
I last showed my hyperfirm Lewis gun with upgades in 2016. It had some added blued steel parts, but was still looking pretty bland:
Next thing I did (probably prematurely) was the layered wood effect (thanks once again to Sidewinder for the master painter's tips):
Final result:
I then chopped the top of the receiver off so that I could add some more detail and moving parts.
Drew up templates for the parts and had them laser cut from acrylic (of course if I was to do it again I would model and 3D print).
Make way!
Plastic parts grafted on, still some seam work to do:
Lasercut steel feed arm added:
But still, this wasn't enough realism. I also wanted to improve the radiator side fins as they had lost their depth from being puttied up for the molding process:
Poor Lewis underwent some more major surgery at this point. It was one of those "Should I do it or leave it? What if it goes horribly wrong... Aw screw it, I've started so I might as well continue!"
The fiberglass supporting rod that runs the length of the casting now fully revealed! Any added parts would have to be designed to fit around it.
Test fitting a tube where the new steel gas tube will go.
New machined steel gas tube (compared to real one). It was done like this with a split in it so it would fit around the fiberglass supporting rod.
Also added a plate to the roof of the cavity to make it look neater. It should look much better once it gets a complete repaint. I dremelled a few inches into the barrel casting and added a matt black plate there as well.
Add on parts: 3D printed radiator fins, barrel tube stump, and gas tube.
It's a very tight fit in there but they fit like a glove.
Final result. Now the radiator looks like a separate part which disappears into the barrel casing, and the gas tube disappears into the receiver.
More to come...
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Thanks Ben, here's somem more:
With all the work that I've been doing, the flimsy rubber front sight that I had shaped took a bit of a beating. You can only re-glue torn rubber back togehter so many times before it becomes ****ed!
So I made a new one:
At this point I was thinking, it's starting to really look like a Lewis gun.
But some things kept bothering me such as the horrible seams, so I did what I could to hide them. Added a metal plate here with stamped serial number. I really should've used steel, but aluminium was all I had and I was impatient.
More seam work.
I added a total of three metal plates witih stamped serial numbers. Also finished rebuilding the area at the back of the barrel casing where the top radiator fins are cisible.
Real removable gas regulator key with machined gas regulator and "nipple". A lasercut blued steel plate hides where the cast in rubber parts were removed. Real screw added to front sling ring.
As it looks today:
The only remaining seams are the ones running the entire length of the barrel casing. 75% of them will eventually be hidden when I add all the ANH greeblies, but the front tapered portion of the casing will always look like crap. If this was resin or fiberglass I could easily fill and carve new grooves, but it won't work on rubber. An entirely new printed front section might be an option and it will mean I can also add a more convincing front radiator.
With all the work that I've been doing, the flimsy rubber front sight that I had shaped took a bit of a beating. You can only re-glue torn rubber back togehter so many times before it becomes ****ed!
So I made a new one:
At this point I was thinking, it's starting to really look like a Lewis gun.
But some things kept bothering me such as the horrible seams, so I did what I could to hide them. Added a metal plate here with stamped serial number. I really should've used steel, but aluminium was all I had and I was impatient.
More seam work.
I added a total of three metal plates witih stamped serial numbers. Also finished rebuilding the area at the back of the barrel casing where the top radiator fins are cisible.
Real removable gas regulator key with machined gas regulator and "nipple". A lasercut blued steel plate hides where the cast in rubber parts were removed. Real screw added to front sling ring.
As it looks today:
The only remaining seams are the ones running the entire length of the barrel casing. 75% of them will eventually be hidden when I add all the ANH greeblies, but the front tapered portion of the casing will always look like crap. If this was resin or fiberglass I could easily fill and carve new grooves, but it won't work on rubber. An entirely new printed front section might be an option and it will mean I can also add a more convincing front radiator.
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Wow, you’re a skilled man! Beautiful
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